WHY YOU SHOULD BE RIDING A LONGBOARD

10 REASONS WHY YOU SHOULD BE SURFING A LONGBOARD

Whether you’re learning how to surf, or you’ve been doing it all your life, if you are not currently riding a longboard, or you don’t have a longboard in your quiver then you are missing out. Not only is longboarding tool to learn how to surf Longboarding is the original form of surfing, and there is nothing as stylish, graceful, and in tune with a wave as a skilled longboarder. Surfers started to stray from longboarding with the radical advancements in board shaping that occurred during the seventies and eighties. New surfers were no longer interested in surfing a longboard and doing hanging tens or cheater fives, rather than opt for the endless style of longboarding surfers turned to twin fins and eventually thrusters.

Shortboards brought about new, progressive manoeuvres that ultimately advanced surfing to new heights. But there is something to be said about tradition and going back to the roots of surfing. Longboarding has a lot to offer every surfer, not just beginners. If you’re a surfer who has never truly put in the hours on a longboard, then do yourself a favour and truly learn how to longboard. The results will be evident in your surfing, no matter what you have underfoot.

1. LONGBOARDS ARE PERFECT FOR PEOPLE LEARNING TO SURF

Every surfer should start out on a longboard. Learning how to surf can be a frustrating process, and that frustration is only compounded when trying to learn on the wrong board. A longboard provides beginner surfers with ample surface area that will catch waves with ease and feel stable on the takeoff. Surfers who learn on shortboards or try to jump down in board length too quickly will develop bad habits such as popping up with a dropped knee.

Additionally, learning to manoeuvre and generate speed on a longboard increases a surfer’s understanding of wave mechanics. Learning to walk the board allows surfers to explore the waves face and learn which sections contain speed.

2. INCREASE YOUR DAYS IN THE WATER

Longboards are wave catching machines, plain and simple. The surf does not need to be pumping for a surfer of any level to have a good session on a longboard. The harsh reality of surfing is that waves are rarely perfect.

Your local break might be “world-class” with the right swell and wind direction, but how often does that happen? Even if you know how to surf, and you consider yourself an advanced surfer, a longboard will increase your days in the water. It may as well be law that a day surfing small waves on a longboard is better than a day of not surfing at all.

3. IMPROVE YOUR SURFING

To learn to longboard is to learn how to surf. No one starts out on a shortboard, at least they shouldn’t. It is common practice for beginners to start on soft tops or longboards, and gradually reduce the length of their board as they progress. Longboards, however, are not just for beginners. While it is widely believed that longboards are for novice surfers, longboards actually serve as an invaluable progression tool for all levels of surfers.

When you longboard, things slow down, allowing surfers to deeply study the form and shape of the wave. Each longboarding session turns into a lesson in wave mechanics.

4. LEARN TO NOSE RIDE

Surfing a Longboard
Surfing a Longboard

Nose riding was once seen as the pinnacle of progressive surfing. In the 1960s, longboards were the standard surf craft, board shorts featured 3-inch inseams, and nothing was cooler than being able to ride with your toes hanging off the noise of your board.

To be able to hang ten or perform a cheater five, takes skill, balance, and a deep understanding of wave mechanics. I don’t know a single surfer who can noise ride, who doesn’t also rip on a shortboard.

5. IMPROVE YOUR STYLE

Watching a skilled surfer on a longboard is akin to watching ballet. Riding a longboard well is essentially an intricate dance that requires grace, balance, strength, and a great deal of skill. Style and grace may seem to come naturally to some surfers, but in actuality, they are born out of repetition and deep study.

Learning to longboard will inevitably increase a surfer’s skill and style.

6. LONGER RIDES

Along with more days in the water and an increased wave count, surfing a longboard will also provide lengthier rides. The high volume and length that allow longboards to be able to catch more waves than smaller surfboards, will also increase the length of each ride. Longboards have so much volume that they can cruise through the slow sections of a wave that will typically end a short boarders ride. Additionally, longboarders can easily ride through the ankle-high white water after a wave closes out and reach the reform.

Once you learn to longboard, don’t be surprised if many of your rides take you all the way to the beach.

Surfing Longboard
Surfing Longboard

7. YOU’RE NEVER TOO OLD TO SURF A LONGBOARD

The high volume and length of longboards make them incredibly easy to paddle and manoeuvre, therefore longboards are an ideal surf vessel for those of us who are a bit over the hill age-wise. If your shoulders can’t handle the wear and tear of paddling a board that may be shorter than you and sinks halfway into the water with you on it, then it may be time to learn how to longboard. If your hips cannot perform the jerky movements it takes to pump down the line on a shortboard, then it may be time to learn to longboard.

And if you do not have the strength to submerge your board underwater to duck dive, then it may be time to learn how to longboard.

8. NEVER GET SKUNKED ON A SURF TRIP

Longboard surfing

The seventh circle of hell most likely involves a perpetual cycle of booking a surf trip to some far-flung tropical surf paradise, only to arrive to find that there is no trace of a swell. No one likes getting skunked, but if the waves are small wouldn’t you still want the ability to surf? That’s where a trusty longboard comes in handy.

You may not get spit out of stand-up barrels, but at least you can catch a few waves on a trip where things don’t exactly go as planned.

9. CRUISY AND RELAXING RIDES

surf surf longboard

Whether you’re just learning how to surf or you’ve been at it for twenty years, you’ll love the laid back, cruisy rides that longboards offer. There’s no need to tire yourself out paddling, just a few hard strokes will put you into virtually any catchable wave. There is no need to take off late and drop in on a steep pitching face, longboards will have you into a wave and on your feet early.

And there’s no need to wear yourself out by tirelessly pumping to get down the line, simply cruise and enjoy the ride.

In conclusion, if you know how to surf, great hop on a longboard. If you don’t know how to surf, no problem at all hop on a longboard and learn. If you’re on the world tour or you’re just an average beach bum, hop on a longboard and you’re guaranteed to have a blast in the water.

LONGBOARDING SURF VIDEO


The above longboarding surf video is filmed in Indonesia, interested in a surf holiday in Bali, Indonesia? Visit Swell Bali, our brand new Bali surf hotel in Bingin, bali.

ABOUT SWELL

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught 1000’s of people the basics of surfing.

Age? Well the average age of a Swell client is 37, which roughly means for every 20 year-old we teach the sport of surfing, we also teach a 54-year-old. We have taught people well in their 60’s the sport of surfing

Adult surf camp
Learn to surf in the Caribbean with us

Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

learn to surf holiday

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding…regardless of your age!

ABOUT SWELL SURF CAMP

Located on the scenic north coast of the Dominican Republic is our purpose built surf resort

We cater for surfers of all levels, from beginners to expert surfers who are looking for an active surf holiday

Swell offers full surf packages holidays

If you like this article about learning to surf after 40 you might also like the following articles.

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SURFBOARD DESIGN 101

active learn to surf holiday

SURFBOARD DESIGN 101

Surfboard shaping and design have both changed significantly over the last few decades. Shaping trends are constantly changing. In the seventies, the twin-fin fish began to dominate line ups. Surfers were completely enthralled by the newfound speed and maneuverability of a shorter board. In the eighties, the thruster was designed and changed performance surfing forever. In the nineties and into the new millennium, high-performance boards were long, thin, and completely rockered out for maximum maneuverability. Today, high-performance boards are getting shorter and fatter with an increased focus on the volume under the chest. But what do all these design features really do? How does a board with low entry rocker compare to one with plenty of rocker when you’re actually surfing? What’s the difference in feel between a single fin, a twin fin, a thruster, and a quad? If you’ve ever wanted to know the ins and outs of surfboard design, you are in the right place. From design to function, this article explores all the intricacies of board design

surfboard

SURFBOARD LENGTH

Length is a pretty intuitive design feature. The length is the measure of the surfboard from the tip of the nose to the tail. But there is more to length than one might think. Just a few inches taken or added to a board will create a noticeably different ride. The basic school of thought when it comes to length is that the more length a board has, the easier it will be to catch waves. Surfers may ride longboards on small days, or when the surf is maxing out, they may opt for larger step-ups and even big wave guns for help paddling into waves that would be otherwise too large and too fast to catch.

SURFBOARD WIDTH

Width is the measurement of a surfboard across the board at its widest point. Width plays a role in a few different aspects of surfing. The more surface area a board has, the more it will float, the easier it is to paddle, and the easier it is to catch waves. One way shapers achieve this increased surface area without adding length to a board is by increasing width. Small wave grovelers often feature wide tails; this allows surfers to catch more waves. A board with a wide nose might do well in small surf, but it struggles in large surf with steep faces because a narrow nose allows for a steep drop.

SURFBOARD VOLUME

Volume has always been an important variable in surfboard design, but it is only recently that shapers and surfers alike are starting to pay close attention to it. There has been a surplus of high volume shortboards coming to market in the last five years. While it may be true that more surface area increases a boards ability to catch waves, it is only true because more surface area adds more total volume. The volume is the amount of space the board occupies: the combination of height, width, and thickness. Today, shapers are paying extra attention to volume and using it to cut inches and even feet off traditional shortboards. By putting more volume under the chest of any board, a shaper is able to reduce the length significantly. With a reduced length, the board becomes more maneuverable.

See the surfboard volume calculator (opens in new window)

TAIL

The tail is the back end of the surfboard. Its shape and thickness directly affect the performance of the board on a wave. The shape of the tail either allows the board to maintain hold on a wave’s face through a turn or release quickly. For example, a rounded tail can hold, but a tail with a wing feature or a swallow tail release the board from the waves face.

SURFBOARD RAILS

Rails are the edges of the board. Rails affect boards speed, planning ability, and tube riding ability. Thick rails, for example, will plane well and allow for a lot of speed. A hard, low rail has plenty of hold to the waves face, perfect for a good tube riding.

ROCKER

Rocker is a term that refers to the curvature of the board. A dramatic, heavy, or steep rocker will be more curved, while a flat rocker will be less curved. A steep rocker at the nose of the board allows the surfer to take steep drops. Contrastingly, a board that has a steep tail rocker or a steep rocker for the length of the board allows the surfer more maneuverability because the board has fewer contact points on a wave and therefore, less drag. High-performance boards often have intricate rockers that allow surfers to perform in steep, dynamic surf. Small wave boards often have flat rockers allowing the board to plane and maintain speed through slow sections of the wave.

FOIL

Foil refers to the thickness of the board or the distribution of foam from nose to tail. Foil has been a key component of the recent focus on volume. Putting a large amount of volume under the chest requires a combination of added width and thickness. While the thickness of the noise, middle, and tail of the surfboard may weigh heavily on the board’s performance, they allow for increased paddle ease and ability to catch waves.

SURFBOARD FINS

Fins propel the board forward, dictate the turning radius, create hold on a waves face, and much more. So obviously, fin set up directly affects the board’s performance and feel. While there are a few novelty few setups that have gone in and out of fashion over the years, such as the bonzer or the asymmetrical setup, there are four standard fin setups: single fin, thruster, twin fin, and quad.

THRUSTER

The thruster (3 fins) is, perhaps, today’s most common fin set up. When the thruster first appeared on the scene during the 1980s, most surfers were riding twin fins that offered a lot of speed, but not much maneuverability. The addition of the back fin provided surfers enough control to be able to turn on a dime. The thruster set up allows surfers to change direction with ease and carve out massive turns on an open face. This increased maneuverability completely changed progressive surfing and brought about the power surfing style that was popularized in the ’90s.

TWIN FIN

The twin fin came into popularity during the 1970s with the rise of “the fish.” These unique shortboards, with two fins placed far apart, allowed surfers to reduce drag and increase speed. Twin fins are ideal, and a blast, in small to medium waves where they provide optimal maneuverability and flow.

QUAD

The Quad fin set up (4 fins) leans heavily on the basic science behind the twin fin, a wide space between fins for water to flow equals speed. However, the extra two fins on the quad provide additional hold, which comes in handy in smaller waves.

Quads with the trailer fin closer to the rails and further up on the board, perform great on smaller waves, like a twin fin but with a bit more control.

Quads with the trailer fins further back provide extra hold in large hollow barrels, without sacrificing speed.

SINGLE FIN

Today, most single fin surfboards are longboards, but that wasn’t always the case. Single fins offer surfers long, drawn out, arching turns. The one large fin offers plenty of hold but does not have the maneuverability of a board with three fins, regardless of the board’s length.

DECK

The deck refers to the top of the surfboard where a surfer places his or her feet. The most common deck types are domed or flat.

BOTTOM CONTOUR

A surfboards bottom contour directly affect speed, turning ability, and style. A hull or convex bottom provides a smooth ride, sits low and the wave, and moves slowly. Contrastingly, a concave bottom offers a fast and maneuverable ride, allowing the board to skip along the surface of the water, push water back towards the fins, and create lift.

While the complexities of surfboard design may fall flat on many riders, the more informed you are on the matter, the more likely you are to be able to find the perfect board for your skill level and style. So, pick out that perfect board and bring it down to our Caribbean surf resort!

MORE INFO ABOUT SURFBOARDS, SHAPES AND DESIGNS:

– The Swell article surfboard shapes give you more insight into the different types of shapes.
– New to surfing? Read the beginners surfboard guide.
– What is needed to get you into this? Read the surf equipment and accessories page.
– Don’t want to bring your surfboard to Cabarete? See our list of surfboards for rent in Cabarete

ABOUT SWELL

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught 1000’s of people the basics of surfing.

Adult surf camp Learn to surf in the Caribbean with us

Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf at our surf retreat?

ABOUT SWELL SURF CAMP

Located on the scenic north coast of the Dominican Republic is our purpose built surf resort

We cater for surfers of all levels, from beginners to expert surfers who are looking for an active surf holiday

Swell offers full surf packages holidays

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SURF , WAVE, SWELL AND BREAK TERMINOLOGY

wave guide

SURF, WAVE, SWELL AND BREAK TERMINOLOGY

THE ULTIMATE WAVE GUIDE

Topics covered and explained in the Surf, waves, swell and break terminology:

  • Understanding Swell
    • Ground Swell
    • Wind Swell
  • Understanding Wave Formation
    • Concave Refraction
    • Convex Refraction
  • Understanding Surf Breaks
    • Beach Break
    • Point Break
    • Reef Break
  • Wave anatomy
    • The Peak
    • The Shoulder
    • The Face/ Wall
    • The Lip
    • The Channel
understanding wave forecasts
Different types of waves

To a non-surfer, a wave is just a wave. In actuality, waves are like fingerprints; no two are alike. The same is true for wave setups; no single break is exactly the same as another one anywhere in the world. In order to improve one’s skills, a surfer must have a firm grasp on wave mechanics and an in-depth knowledge of a variety of different types of surf breaks.

WAVE GUIDE

To understand surf breaks and wave mechanics, we must look at how waves are formed by swell and where swell comes from.

UNDERSTANDING SWELL

The sun is the origin of all surf. Solar energy creates wind, and winds blow across vast areas of open ocean to create energy that eventually organizes itself into swell.

When swell travels great distances or combines with other swells, it can increase in size and interval. There are two types of swell that cause surf, groundswell, and wind swell.

GROUND SWELL

ground swell
Ground swell

Groundswell is the type of swell surfers hope and pray for; it often creates large and powerful surf.

Groundswell is created by large storm and weather systems or strong wind blowing over long distances of open ocean. Groundswell can travel for thousands of miles, and the wave energy can reach up to 1,000 feet in depth. Ground swells typically produce long interval swell and large surf once they make landfall.

WIND SWELL

wind swell
Wind swell

Wind swell is created by less powerful, more localized wind systems.

The wave energy from wind swells do not run as deep, and they only travel short distances across open ocean.

The result is usually smaller surf with a shorter interval.

UNDERSTANDING WAVE FORMATION

WAVE REFRACTION
Wave refraction

When swell finally reaches shallow water- whether that be a continental shelf, a reef system, or a sand bar- it is slowed and finally releases its energy in the form of breaking waves.

When swell bends horizontally as it breaks, it is called refraction. Refraction steers swell towards or away from shore. Some coves on the same coast during the same swell can have pumping waves while others are as calm as lakes.

This occurrence is caused by the varying ocean floor contours that cause different types of refraction. There are two types of refraction that can occur, depending on the ocean floor topography, concave refraction, and convex refraction.

CONCAVE REFRACTION

When open ocean swell comes into contact with an abrupt, protruding change in the ocean floor that is surrounded by deeper water- often a reef or sand bar- the swell will bend at its far ends as it turns into a breaking wave.

The center portion of the swell is slowed by the protrusion. The result resembles a bowl shape that travels towards the shore, with the “opening of the bowl” facing the shore.

CONVEX REFRACTION

When open ocean swell collides with a protruding headland, such as a cliff, jetty, or even a pier, the portion of swell confronting the headland slows, while the rest of the line of swell continues forward at pace.

The result closely resembles a “C” shape with the curved side moving towards the shore. This is known as convex refraction, and it nearly mirrors concave refraction in appearance.

UNDERSTANDING SURF BREAKS

Beyond refraction, ocean floor topography plays a role in determining how a wave breaks, not just how it bends. Surf breaks are categorized in three different ways: beach breaks, reef breaks, and point breaks. Understanding the differences between surf breaks is key to not only progressing as a surfer but staying safe in the water.

At Swell Surf Camp, our clients have access to a variety of surf break types that will match their surf skill level. The Dominican Republic is home to a vast system of reef and beach breaks.

BEACH BREAK

Beach break
Beach break

If you’re a first-time surfer, it’s best to find a mellow beach break to learn. Beach breaks are typically the safest types of surf break. Incoming swell breaks over sand bars versus harsh rocks or reef.

The shape and size of the wave are directly influenced by the sand bars that are constantly shifting. Beach breaks typically offer a variety of peaks compared to reef or point breaks that might only have one take off zone.

POINT BREAK

Point Break
Point Break

Point breaks, as the name suggests, are waves that break on a point, a protruding land mass that is perpendicular to the wave’s direction.

This point can be natural or manmade, such as a jetty. The wave at most point breaks is slow forming and offers surfers a long ride with a carve-worthy wall. Point breaks are great for surfers who are looking to progress and learn to carve / turn.

REEF BREAK

Reef break
Reef break

A reef break is created by a wave breaking over a rock or coral formation under water. Reef breaks can either have submerged reef or exposed reef.

A submerged reef is a rock formation that has been covered by sand. Submerged reefs are typically safer to surf over than any other type of reef. The exposed reef is often sharp and dangerous to step on. Additionally, reef systems can have other hazards, like sea urchins.

Reef breaks do, however, offer a consistent peak and wave shape that you would not find at a beach break.

WAVE ANATOMY

In order to successfully catch and ride waves, a surfer must comprehend basic wave anatomy. Where should you take off? What parts of the wave have the most speed? Where is a safe place to wait for incoming surf? All of these questions can be answered by digging a little deeper into the anatomy of a wave.

THE PEAK

One mistake many first-time surfers make is paddling for any incoming wave no matter where they are positioned compared to the peak. The peak of a wave is its highest point and the ideal take-off point for surfers. A wave begins to break at the peak making it the steepest portion of the wave and the easiest place to take off.

THE SHOULDER

The shoulder of a wave is a flatter and more mellow section of the wave that sits down the line from the peak. The shoulder is a great place to sit and watch your friends score waves.

THE FACE/ WALL

The face or wall of a wave is the steep, vertical section of a breaking wave just in front of the “pocket.” Our goal as surfers is to ride on the face of the wave just in, or slightly in front of, the pocket. Once a surfer gets too far down the face of the wave (closer to the shoulder), they cut back so that they can ride in the pocket of the wave. Beginner surfers will find that their rides will be cut short if they ride in front of the face of the wave, rather than on it. The vertical section of the wave has the most power.

THE LIP

The lip of the wave is the cresting portion that comes down as the wave breaks. With offshore wind and a decent sized swell, surfers can pull into barrels behind the lip of the wave.

THE CHANNEL

While the channel is not technically part of the wave, it is vital to a surfer’s ability to paddle out. Paddling out can be difficult, especially in large surf. The channel is where all of the incoming surf flows back into the sea. This is the best place to paddle out, as it is often calmer than other parts of the break.

LEARNING MORE ABOUT WAVES

The most effective way to learn about waves, different surf breaks, and varying surf conditions is to surf as much and as often as possible. At Swell Surf Camp, we not only teach our clients to surf in the warm Caribbean Sea, but we provide the ultimate surf experience through stellar lodging, tasty food, and a welcoming community.

For 2020 a new destination is offered by Swell: Swell Bali Surf camp will open in Bingin, a very short walk to some of the best surfing beaches that Bali has to offer, catering for people that have never surfed before to people that want to catch some perfect barrels.

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WHAT SURFBOARD SHAPE IS RIGHT FOR YOU?

WHAT SURFBOARD SHAPE

WHAT SURFBOARD SHAPE IS RIGHT FOR YOU?

It’s no longer mainstream to ride only high-performance shortboards. In fact, it’s no longer mainstream to ride anything mainstream. Today, at any given lineup you will, of course, find your standard shortboards, but you will also be met with a plethora of fun size crafts, grovelers, twin fins, stand up paddle boards, soft tops, and even foils. The recent eruption in popularity of the alternative surf craft has done wonders for the advancement of fun, which is what surfing is really all about. There’s no point in trying to force your 6’0” leaned out thruster to go on a two-foot day. There’s no fun involved in stomping repeatedly down the face of a wave with your front foot, only to have the wave close out on you because you couldn’t make the section. Riding boards that are designed for the waves you’re actually riding will increase your fun levels tenfold, especially when you have the ideal board for your skill level.

LONGBOARD

surf longboard surfboardA longboard is anything 9 feet and over. Traditionally, longboards have single fins, but now it is common to see longboards with a “two plus one” set up. Meaning two thruster style fins with a traditional large single fin in the middle. Longboards are truly an every man’s tool. All surfers start out on them, they’re excellent for learning. But plenty of advanced surfers choose to ride longboards as well.

SKILL OF RIDER

As previously mentioned, longboards are the perfect option for beginners. Ideally, a first-time surfer will start out on a soft top, and then progress to a traditional longboard. Longboards are also a great option for advanced surfers who enjoy cruisy rides and want to improve their style. Nothing is more stylish than a skillful long boarder cross stepping his or her way to the noise of their board.

OPTIMAL WAVE TYPE AND SIZE

While a truly talented longboarder will take out their trusty log no matter if its 6 inches or 6 feet, most of us turn to longboards when the surf is just a bit too small for a traditional shortboard. Longboards make even the most petite swells enjoyable and riding a longboard (or any board that will increase your wave count) will help improve your understanding of wave mechanics.

WHAT TO EXPECT

While riding a longboard, you can expect long, cruisy, drawn-out lines. You will also have the ability to catch and ride small waves that would otherwise be considered uncatchable.

FUN SIZE

funshape surfboard
funshape surfboard
Fun size boards are called fun size for a reason, they make what would be otherwise dull surf amusing. A fun size board is high in volume, wide, and has thick rails. A fun size board stands anywhere from 6’6” to 8’6” in height. One of the most popular fun size shapes is the egg shape, which is often called the “mini-Malibu for its similarities to a longboard.

SKILL OF RIDER

Fun size boards are a great option for beginner surfers who are looking to progress towards a smaller board. If you have mastered the popup and you can ride clean lines down the face of the wave, then a fun size board will be a great fit for you. Similar to longboards, fun size boards will give intermediate and advanced surfers a thrill on relatively small days.

OPTIMAL WAVE TYPE AND SIZE

As stated earlier, fun size boards can make a relatively small wave day a lot of fun. That being said, there are a select number of surfers who ride mid-size boards on hollow, barreling days.

WHAT TO EXPECT

Fun size boards offer a similar feel to longboards, with a bit of added performance. Long cruisy rides are met with increased maneuverability that is made possible by the reduced length of the board. Fun size boards offer beginner surfers a chance to begin to learn to carve and turn in the same vein as you would on a shorter board, while still providing plenty of stability.

GROVELER

groveler surfA groveler may appear to be just a standard shortboard, but upon closer inspection, you will find that a groveler is typically shorter and stubbier than the average high-performance shortboard. What this means is that while grovelers may be ridden at a reduced length, they have an increased width, thickness, and therefore more volume than normal shortboards.

SKILL OF RIDER

A groveler should be part of every surfer’s quiver, whether they are just starting out or they are a sponsored pro. Grovelers serve as a longboard replacement during the small waves of the summer season or any small day for that matter. The increased volume in a groveler allows the board to paddle easily and catch virtually any sized wave. Grovelers are also a great stepping stone for beginner/ intermediate surfers to advance their surfing. The high volume of a groveler will provide more stability than a high-performance shortboard, making them a valuable step in surf progression.

OPTIMAL WAVE TYPE AND SIZE

Grovelers excel in small waves. 2-4 feet is where you will get the most out of a groveler. Most grovelers are too thick to perform well on large waves with steep faces. There are a few exceptions of course if a groveler has a slight entry rocker and a thinned-out tail (such as the Hypto Krypto by Hayden Shapes) then they may be able to perform in larger surf.

WHAT TO EXPECT

As stated above, a groveler will make mushy, small surf more enjoyable. The increased volume allows you to catch more waves with ease. The relatively flat rocker of a groveler gives the board plenty of speed through flat/ closeout sections that would otherwise be difficult to get around. Grovelers will be a tad more cruisey than a high-performance shortboard but will still offer the necessary thrills of performance when the surf is less than ideal.

FISH

fish surfboardThe fish is an immensely popular shape that has been around since the 1970s. Fishes have a few defining characteristics that separate them from normal shortboards or grovelers. The most notable characteristics of a fish are the wide swallowtail and the twin fin (often keels) set up. Fishes also tend to have a lot of volume under the chest and somewhat flat rockers.

SKILL OF RIDER

Like the groveler, the fish will bring an ample amount of fun to any surf session. The classically drawn outlines of the swallow-tailed twin fin are some of the most stylish in surfing, making fishes popular with intermediate and advanced surfers. That being said, the fish has similar characteristics to the groveler, making it an equally as viable option for progression for those beginner/ intermediate surfers who are looking to improve.

OPTIMAL WAVE TYPE AND SIZE

Similar to any groveler, a fish will turn any small day session into something to remember. Few surfers choose to ride fishes on large days, in part due to their large wide noises, which make steep drops challenging.

WHAT TO EXPECT

On a fish, you can expect long cruisy lines, plenty of speed, and a loose, skatey feel. A fish may not be able to bank turns like a high-performance shortboard, but when they’re ridden well they sure are fun to watch.

HIGH-PERFORMANCE SHORTBOARD

surf al merrick surfHigh-performance shortboards vary in size from about 5’4” to 6’8.” They are designed for one thing and one thing only, to turn on a dime and make the absolute most out of the open face of a wave. A good high-performance shortboard will allow surfers to fit as many turns possible into a wave while maintaining speed and control.

SKILL OF RIDER

High-performance shortboards have thin rails, pointed noises, and low volume. They take time and patience to master, meaning that only advanced surfers will truly have a good time on them.

OPTIMAL WAVE TYPE AND SIZE

There needs to be a bit of size for a high-performance shortboard to truly shine. If the surfer is 4 feet or over, then it is time to grab your trusty shortboard.

WHAT TO EXPECT

High-performance shortboards are generally thin, with low rails, and rockered out. This gives them the ability to turn on a dime and carve up and down the face of a wave with ease. If you’re riding a high-performance shortboard for the first time, expect to work a lot to generate speed and set up each maneuver, but know that if you get that cut back just right, it will feel amazing.

WHAT SURFBOARD SHAPE IS RIGHT FOR YOU?

There is no right or wrong in the surfboard shape you choose, our advice is to try out the different surfboard shapes in various conditions and see which one suit your style and surfing ability best. Or don’t choose and mix and match boards to the right conditions or state of mind you are into. Some days are better for glide or speed, others are better for a high-performance approach.
Whatever you do, make sure to have fun, since that is essentially what surfing comes down to.; putting a smile on your face.

At Swell, we have an extended surfboard rental pool for people that already know how to surf and don’t want to travel to the Dominican Republic with their surfboard. Our range exists of 25+ boards ranging from 5’10’ fishes to 9’6′ performance longboards and everything in between.

Never surfed before? Have a look at the learn to surf and surf coaching packages we offer

Surfboards for beginners we have too.

Links and resources:
Mollusk surfboards sell some of the best looking ‘alternative’ surfboards.
Channel Islands is one of the leading manufacturers of high-performance shortboards

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Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

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TOP ACTIVITIES DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

Activities Dominican Republic

TOP ACTIVITIES DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

So you want to go on vacation to the Dominican Republic; an island jam-packed full of beautiful beaches and azure-colored water.

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC:
A SUPERB HOLIDAY DESTINATION FOR ALL

best surfing camp vacation

You may not realise though that the Dominican Republic has a landscape which lends itself to some of the most beautiful and exciting activities on offer, not just in the Caribbean region, but on the entire planet.
There’s a good reason why some parts of the movie Jurassic Park were filmed on location on the island. Famed for its prehistoric Amber stone, coffee and cacao, the Dominican Republic is a gem of an island, offering so many activities to choose from, you won’t be able to fit them all in during a week-long stay.

ACCOMMODATION CHOISES IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

With regards to accommodation in the Dominican Republic, you’ve certainly got some good choices of where to stay on this huge island. Perhaps you are thinking to stay in a place like Punta Cana, where the majority of accommodation is in large all-inclusive hotels with organised tours, but not much in the way of local life outside of your hotel, or are you going to be more adventurous/independent and head for ‘real’ towns like Cabarete or La Terrenas? Either way, the Dominican Republic is vast and beautiful, with a friendly population who love to share the adventures of their island with you.

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC ALL INCLUSIVE HOTELS

Many people staying in an all-inclusive are led to believe that it’s not safe to leave a resort, but this could not be further from the truth. This advice is given by all-inclusive hotels who have a clear motive; if you go out and about by yourself, they miss out on huge commissions from all the tours they would otherwise sell you, so it’s more profitable to keep you inside. Better still, steer clear of the all-inclusives hotels altogether and choose a smaller, privately owned hotel or guest house to stay in, with an owner who can share their extensive local knowledge with you on where to eat great food and visit fun places.

TOP ACTIVITIES DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

Rest assured, from someone who lived in the Dominican Republic (in Cabarete) for 12 years, getting out and about in the Dominican Republic will be rewarding, safe and fun, so think about organising a vacation around two or three different areas of the island.

Sunrise Playa EncuentroHow about combining a few days of surfing or kiteboarding in a sporty, vibrant town like Cabarete, with a few days in the oh-so-peaceful La Terrenas, and even a couple of days in the Zona Colonial for some culture in the capital city, Santo Domingo? Or perhaps a hiking tour up Pico Duarte, followed by a truly relaxing few days on a deserted beach like Punta Rucia. Whatever you plan, be sure to get the very best out of this interesting, beautiful and diverse country.

This article deals mainly with sports and adventure tours in the Dominican Republic, but if you are also interested in the culture, carnivals and festivals on offer on the island, have a look at page.

Here we have given you the top 20 must-do activities in the Dominican Republic, listing the sports activities and adventures on offer alphabetically. Hopefully, it will give you an idea or two when you are planning your vacation to the Dominican Republic.

Top 20 activities in the Dominican Republic

1. ATV TOURS

surf atv tour cabareteSeveral Dominican companies run these fun ATV tours around various parts of the island. You will find one close to any tourist area like Puerto Plata, Punta Cana, Samana, etc. Many combine the fun of driving these 4×4 open vehicles with a little local culture, such as driving through the sugar cane fields or visiting local coffee growers.

Safety can be a concern as rigid rules on health and safety are rarely adhered to, but in fairness, this can often add to the fun! Duration of tours is generally 3 to 4 hours, but check with local operators.

2. CANYONING

The Dominican Republic is a huge island (it takes 7 hours to drive east/west). Right across the centre of the island mass are mountain ranges (with the highest peak in the Caribbean, Pico Duarte at 3098m). canyoning dominican republicWith mountains come canyons and rivers and the Dominican Republic has more than its fair share of both.

If you are relatively fit and a little bit brave, these tours are not to be missed. With iconic names like The Big Bastard (about sums it up), The Magic Mushroom (a geological marvel) and Ciaguapa Falls, to name some, canyoning trips involve hiking (upwards) for a few hours and jumping, sliding and repelling all the way back down again.

Trips generally last the whole day and you will need non-slip shoes which can get wet. Your reputable tour operator will provide proper safety gear, including wet suits (the water from the mountains is cold), harnesses and helmets.

The best tours are in the Cordillera Septentrional, Puerto Plata region, so base yourself in the cool surf town of Cabarete to get the very best of the canyoning trips in the Dominican Republic.

3. CATAMARAN TOURS

Again, several providers based across the island offer catamaran tours of local waters. Some double-up as fishing adventures and others are more of a sunbathing and swimming cruise, often involving drinks and food. Notable operators are Tip Top or Freestyle Tours in Puerto Plata and too many to mention in Punta Cana. Your hotel will have local leisure cruise, fishing and booze-cruise information.

4. DEEP SEA FISHING

Both Puerto Plata and Punta Cana have deep sea fishing tours and charters on offer. High Z and Mahi Mahi Tours are the best on offer in Puerto Plata whilst Punta Cana tends to have more expensive private charters for hire.

5. SCUBA DIVING

Being a Caribbean island, bordered both by the Atlantic (North Coast) and the Diving SosuaCaribbean Sea (East and South coast), the Dominican Republic enjoys some beautiful, turquoise water, abundant with fish and corals.

There are many scuba dive schools operating on the island. Our pick of the bunch would be Merlin Dive school in Sosua (close to Cabarete) and Dressel dive school operating in Punta Cana and Puerto Plata. We chose these companies because of their European-style professionalism in operating; scuba diving needs to be taken seriously. More info at https://www.divecenter-merlin.com

6. EL LIMON WATERFALL

limon waterfallIn the Samana region, about half an hour from Las Terrenas, you will find El Limón waterfall. This trip is less extreme than the canyoning mentioned previously, or the 27 waterfalls (27 Charcos) we will mention later in this article.

El Limón is quite a spectacular waterfall, standing at a whopping 52m high. Getting to the waterfall involves a horseback ride of roughly 45 minutes, where you will get wet as your horse negotiates several river crossing points to reach the base of this magnificent waterfall. You’ll be offered this tour from locals whilst walking around the charming town of Las Terrenas but it’s worth sticking to the more established tour operators like Santi or Parada La Manzana as they have better guides and well-cared for horses. Walking is also possible, but add an hour or so to the trek.

7. HIKING PICO DUARTE

hiking pico duarteWe’ve already mentioned that the Dominican Republic is home to Pico Duarte, the tallest mountain in the Caribbean at 3098m high. If you are a fit and regular walker, this is a great choice to see the magnificent interior of the island.

Tours generally are 2 to 3 days and start at Jarabacoa. Tours are not cheap, but accommodation, meals and guides are included and generally break down to around $150 USD per person, per day.

8. HORSERIDING

It’s a fact that for many people, a beach holiday is not complete without a pony trek along the sand, or if you are a more accomplished rider, a canter through the shore-break. horse riding cabareteAll tourist regions offer horse-back riding tours from several sources.

Riding on the beach can be exhilarating, but we strongly recommend that you take a tour which goes inland and rides through some local towns and villages, along with river crossings through some beautiful valley scenery. Rancho Louisa y Tommy is one such company, based in Sabaneta de Yasica, close to Cabarete on the north coast. You can contact them on their Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/Rancho-Luisa-y-Tommy-430058250408145/

9. KITEBOARDING

Cabarete, on the North coast of the Dominican Republic is widely thought to be the kiteboarding capital of the world. Side-on steady winds and warm water combine to provide perfect kiteboarding conditions. The waters of Cabarete surf IMG 2522Bay are full of the beautiful multi-coloured kites as they glide effortlessly through the water.

Kiteboarding might look difficult, but actually, it’s much easier than it appears. A good kiteboarding school, such as LEK Cabarete, Kite Club Cabarete or Kite Club Punta Cana, will teach you in a one-on-one lesson with an IKO qualified kiteboarding instructor. Learning is not cheap, but it shouldn’t be as each kite equipment set used in lessons is valued at around $3000 USD and is easily damaged (kite crashing to the beach) during lessons. Don’t be tempted to cut costs in a kite lesson; it’s not worth the safety risk.

Poor instruction in a kite lesson can lead to very serious injury; the kites wield enormous power and it’s easy to get launched high in the air if you don’t move the kite in the correct way. With good instruction, it’s exhilarating and quick to learn; you can make great progress in 6 to 8 hours of lessons. A good kite boarding school will charge between $69 and $72 USD per person per hour of instruction.

10. LAGUNA DUDU & LUGANU GRI GRI

These two truly stunning azure lagoons of water are close to each other, on either of Cabrera along the North coast. You could combine a trip to them both in one day.

laguna duduGri Gri is formed from a natural spring, but after an earthquake in 1952, the subterranean water rose up and formed a lagoon. Named after the Gri-Gri tree which grows in abundance in the surrounding mangrove forrest, tours go by boat through the lagoon, taking in the caves where thousands of Swallows nest. The boats often have glass bottoms, so you can really appreciate the quite incredible colour of the water beneath you.

El Dudu offers the same stunningly beautiful azure water (both Gri Gri and El Dudu look as though the water has been dyed, such is the vibrancy of the colour), but it’s more of a small lagoon for jumping into, with a zip line and ladders to aid a fast or slow decent into this most spectacular pool of water.

A boat trip on the Laguna Gri Gri lasts around an hour or so and you can spend as long as you like hanging out at El Dudu. A taxi from Cabarete to Cabrera will cost around $80 to $100 USD for a return trip, even if there are several people in the vehicle. Cheaper gua gua’s and carritos also go for a few pesos each, but expect a very crowded journey.

11. MONKEY JUNGLE

Just outside of Cabarete, you will find the Monkey Jungle & Zipline adventures. monkey jungleOpened as a way to fund urgent free medical care for Haitians and Dominicans who previously had no access to any medical care, the Monkey Jungle is now a firm favorite on the North coast (base yourself in Cabarete or Sosua for this adventure).

Sadly Chuck and Candy, the founders of the project lost their lives in a small ‘plane in 2016, whilst returning from a humanitarian mission to deliver much needed supplies to Haiti. Their legacy lives on in the form of a really fun afternoon feeding the Squirrel Monkeys and racing down the ziplines. It’s great to know that while you enjoy yourself, the money you have paid to do so is going to such a great cause.

12. MOUNTAIN BIKING

We’ve already written of the expansive mountain ranges of the Dominican Republic, so of course, mountain biking is readily available through the Cordillera Central. In fact, cycling generally is huge in the Dominican Republic, with regular road races happening both within the major cities and between mtb cabaretethem most Sundays.

Bike Map have several rides listed here on https://www.bikemap.net/en/l/3508796/

SEE WHAT CABARETE IS ALL ABOUT

(There’s a reason it’s called the adventure capital of the Caribbean)

13. PLAYA GRANDE BEACH & GOLD COURSE

Playa Grande is thought to be one of the most beautiful beaches on the North coast of the Dominican Republic and well worth a trip if you are staying in the region. playa grande dominican republicTraditionally a popular beach for locals every Sunday, this stunning beach is bordered by fisherman’s huts/restaurants. As soon as you arrive, you’ll be offered a simple table and chairs beneath the palm trees and delicious, BBQ’d fresh catch of the day.

Beware the shore break on some days, it can be quite heavy, but generally, kids who are good swimmers will love playing in the waves whilst you lie on the golden sand.

The renowned golf course designer, Robert Trent Jones Sr. designed two golf courses on the North coast. Playa Dorada and Playa Grande. Playa Dorada (just outside of Puerto Plata) is a nice, quaint little course but Playa Grande is the masterpiece; a links golf course with stunning holes atop the cliffs, all overlooking the magnificently blue Atlantic ocean.

Whilst on the subject of golf in the Dominican Republic, there are enough great courses on the island to plan a multi-centre golf vacation, including the world-famous Teeth of the Dog golf course in Casa De Campo (south coast). There are no less than 26 golf courses to choose from in the Dominican Republic, making it the best Caribbean island choice for a golf vacation!

14. SNORKELING

Several locations on the island are great for snorkeling. Sosua, the next town Snorkeling activities dominican republicto Cabarete, has a stunning bay and snorkelling trips are leaving from the bay for a short trip to the reefs in front of the beach. Merlin dive centre are one of the companies who will organise a local boat to take you into the bay to where you will be able to swim with and feed the fish. If you are staying in Puerto Plata or in Punta Cana, your resort hotel will have a list of the companies they use for their snorkelling trips.

15. SUP (STAND UP PADDLE BOARDING).

This popular sport is available in several locations. Las Terrenas and Punta Cana both have flat water so if you like to paddle around without waves, you will be very likely to be able to rent an SUP at your local beach.

SUP Cabarete

The North coast is where the majority of the waves are, so if you are able to surf waves with an SUP, head for Cabarete where you can find some great waves on the reef in the town’s main bay. There’s also flat water in the bay of Cabarete. Bear in mind that SUP boards are banned at the surf beach of Encuentro for safety reasons.

Sup’ing (or kayaking) down the rivers in the Sabaneta de Yasica area, close to Cabarete, is very popular. Check with Kayak River Adventures for more details.

16. SURFING

Bearing in mind the fact that the Dominican Republic is bordered by two different oceans (the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean) there is a distinct location for good surfing and that is on the Atlantic side of the North coast. best surf vacationThe Caribbean side (Punta Cana, Casa de Campo, etc) is flat pretty much year-round, so if you are coming to the Dominican Republic to surf, you must head to the North. In this regard, if you are a surfer, fly to Puerto Plata (POP) and not to Punta Cana (PUJ) as it takes 6 hours to drive north from PUJ.

Encuentro is the main surf beach of the North coast. Situated about 10 minutes drive from Cabarete, it has several different surf peaks to suit all levels of surfing. The best surf for expert surfers is to be found between November and April, with the summer months May to October, being better for smaller waves.

There are many  other surf breaks along the North coast; you can find more information on surfing in the Dominican Republic on this page

Down at Encuentro beach there are a number of local surf schools who will give you surf lessons but if you want to take a more intense surf course, then stay somewhere like Swell surf camp, where you can be immersed in a complete surf camp experience, with lessons, airport pickups, meals and a vibe with other surfers to enjoy.

Macao Beach, just north of Punta Cana, does have some rather limited shore breaks at certain times of the year. You will find surf schools located on the beach there when the surf is up.

17. 27 CHARCOS WATERFALLS

27 waterfallsWe’ve already spoke about the canyoning trips, but there’s another amazing waterfall experience close to Puerto Plata on the North coast. The 27 Waterwalls (local name, 27 Charcos), is a breathtakingly beautiful hike, walking up no less than 27 linking waterfalls and then descending by sliding and jumping.

Historically, this trip did not enjoy good safety standards and very sadly, after the deaths of 3 people at the waterfalls some years ago during heavy rains, a rapid revision was made of safety standards. Guides were properly trained and new regulations put into place about when the waterfalls should be open or closed (too much rain now results in closure). These days, the trip is much better organised, but do bear in mind, it is a strenuous hike and you should not attempt it if you don’t enjoy a decent level of fitness. Do not go during periods of prolonged rain and remember that sometimes, even when the sun is shining on the beach, it can be raining up at the falls, such is the nature of local weather patterns. Check with the operator who is planning to take you, whether the conditions at the falls are favorable.

You can choose to do less than the full 27 waterfalls and most of the trips from all-inclusive hotels will not attempt the full hike. Instead, you will normally hike the first 1/3 of the 27 waterfalls.

18. WINDSURFING

Cabarete, on the North coast of the Dominican Republic is one of the world’s best spots for wind-sports. Long before kitesurfing became popular, Cabarete attracted many good windsurfers who enjoy this bay’s perfect wind direction (side-on), warm water and great waves on the reef for launching slick tricks like the Shifty 720.

There are some good windsurf schools on the bay of Cabarete who will give you a beginner lesson in this king of water-sports. Quality gear rentals are also available from these schools, so if you windsurf already, there’s no need to be carrying your heavy windsurf gear to the Dominican Republic.

Flat water windsurfing is available at other resort towns like Puerto Plata and Punta Cana.

19. WHALEWATCHING

On the North-East peninsula of the Dominican Republic, off the coast of Samana, from mid-December to mid-March, humpback whales will congregate for their annual migration. It is one of the most densely populated areas in the world for whales during these months and you are pretty much guaranteed to see them.

whale watching dominican republicIn fact, if you stay anywhere on the North coast, whales will be visible to the naked eye from the shore during the whale mating season, especially during January and February, as they pass by on their way to Samana.

If you want to get close to the whales, there are many companies in and around Las Terrenas and Samana who will organise a boat trip for you to travel into the breeding grounds. A note of caution; after many years of zero regulation, it is now illegal to to harass the whales. Strict regulations have been introduced to reduce the impact of these tours on the whale’s breeding ground. Now only 3 boats are allowed to be relatively close to a pod so there is often a lot of waiting around for your boat to have a ‘turn’ getting close to these majestic creatures. Boats are also restricted to 45 minutes in the vicinity of a pod of whales. Do not accept a ‘whale-watching tour’ from any ‘regular’ fishing boat as only boats holding a license from the Ministry of the Environment are allowed into the humpback whales’ breeding ground. We strongly recommend that you go with a company like that run by Kim Beddall http://www.whalesamana.com/ who stringently follow these vitally important regulations, not just for your own safety, but for the protection of these crucial breeding areas.

20. YOGA

With more than 20 million people regularly taking part in Yoga in the United States alone, Yoga is firmly established as an important element of people’s daily or weekly lives and that continues, even on vacation.

yoga cabareteYou will find many Yoga studios in the Dominican Republic. Cabarete has 3 or 4 different venues for Yoga, including a 3x weekly Ashtanga Yoga class at Swell surf camp (you’ll have to be staying at Swell though to take their classes).

Las Terrenas, Samana, Puerto Plata, Punta Cana, La Romana, Santiago and Santo Domingo will all have Yoga classes you can take part in. Check with your accommodation host or hotel to see where and when your nearest Yoga class will be: They should also be able to tell you about the type of Yoga being held.

We really hope that this article has given you some ideas of what to do on vacation in the Dominican Republic; it really is an amazing place!

“The Dominican Republic has it all”

We hope you enjoyed reading this article about the top activities the Dominican Republic offers, feel free to share it on your favorite social media site.

Dominican culture & arts

GETTING TO THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

Here is our updated 2019 info page on how to get to the Dominican Republic, and how to get around the island

SEE WHAT THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC AND SWELL IS ALL ABOUT

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SURF TECHNIQUE: THE POP UP

how to pop up surfing

SURF TECHNIQUE: THE POP UP

Here is a “how to surf” tutorial on various surfing techniques which are vital when you are learning how to surf. It is not meant as a replacement for going on a learn to surf holiday (like those we offer at Swell) but rather as a reference with visuals to make learning easier.

About Swell Surf Camp
We offer luxury surf holiday experiences for people who want to learn how to surf in warm, Caribbean water. We focus on a structured approach in our surf lessons, taught by ISA qualified surfing instructors.

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HOW TO SURF: THE POP UP

  • Place hands flat on your board under your chest (see note below about hand-position)
  • Push up: Arch your back, weight on toes and hands
  • Twist your hips into a position which allows you to first move your back* foot into position
  • Move front* foot into position, place front foot between your hands
  • Stand up, keeping center of gravity low with your kness bend & looking forward
  • *your ‘back’ or ‘front’ foot is determined by whether you are ‘regular/natural-footed’ (that’s riding with the left foot forward) or ‘goofy-footed'(riding with your right foot forward). In order to test this, have someone push you gently from behind on a flat surface (ideally when you are not expecting it). The foot which leads the step determines if you are natural/regular or goofy. If you have skateboarded or snowboarded, with surfing, you are very likely to ride with the same foot forward.

SURFING TECHNIQUE : TAKING OFF

caribbean surf campThere are various ways on how to do a successful pop up on a surfboard, below is the approach we use the most at Swell in our surf lessons at Playa Encuentro.

This approach to the pop up is only suitable for beginners learning how to surf on big surfboards (anything over 8′ and ideally on a soft top with plenty of volume and stability). Depending on how tall you are, you might adjust your hand position further under your ribcage (imagine a pendulum) in order to give your feet the space to move.

For best results this technique is best practiced first on the beach, so you have extra stability, then when you have mastered it on the beach, practice in small mellow waves, like those we have at Playa Encuentro.

The following images show the pop-up technique for a surfer with a “natural/regular” stance (riding with left foot forward), If you are goofy-footer (right foot forward), the technique stays the same, just move the other foot as opposed to how it’s shown in these images.

WHERE TO PRACTICE THE POP UP SURFING TECHNIQUE

Practise on the beach, then go out on small ‘white water’ waves. White water of about 30 to 50 cm is ideal. Enough power to give you forward thrust.

surf step1 pop up surf

Paddle hard enough to catch the wave and feel the force of the wave pushing you forward. As you gain speed the board actually gets a bit more stable. Now place both hands flat on your surfboard under your chest (don’t grab the rail of the surfboard). Some taller people find it easier to place their hands further down the chest towards the ribcage to ‘balance’ their body before moving the feet.

surf step2 pop up surf

Now arch your lower back  – by doing a push-up movement. Only your toes/feet and hands should be touching the board, look up / forward, not down at your board.

surf step3b pop up surf

Now slide your ‘back’ foot into position first (it sounds confusing, but this will be your left foot if you are goofy and your right foot if you are a natural-footed surfer). The back foot should move about 35-45 cm forward. Twisting your body will make this easier as it creates space.

surf step4a pop up surf
Then move your front foot towards your hands staying very low to maintain balance.

surf step5 pop up surf

The final part of the pop-up, releasing your hands from the board but making sure to keep a low center of gravity ( = better balance) by bending both knees; you can also extend your arms straight, one forward and one behind you to further increase your balance. Look forward (not down!) and enjoy the glide!

SURFING POP UP TECHNIQUE / VIDEO

COMMON MISTAKES WHEN PRACTISING THE POP UP


surf wrongPractise on the wrong waves: the pop up technique should be practised in small white water waves, not out in the lineup (out the back) for first time surfers. Don’t go out in big waves, or crowded surf spots.

surf wrongFeet in the wrong position: Your feet should be pretty much in the centre of the board, over stringer  ( center line made of wood in the board)

surf wrongWrong hand position: Don’t grab the rails of the surfboard, it will slow the board down and will also make  the board a lot more unstable for the push up

surf wrongKnees on the board.  A lot of beginners do this, it might make standing up on your first waves ‘easier’ but it’s a bad technique and correcting it later takes more time, so skip the knees on the board part.

surf wrongLooking down: A very common mistake in people learning how to surf is to look and see what they are doing, so looking down at their feet / board / water. It make keeping your balance very difficult and you cannot see where you are going. Keep looking forward!

surf wrongToo early: Don’t stand up too early. Make sure the wave is properly giving you forward momentum. Stand up too early, and the board will lose speed, you miss the wave and will fall off.


surf wrong
Standing too upright. You have done all this hard work to stand on the board and now you want to stand tall! Don’t do it! By staying low and bending the knees you have a lot more stability.

surf wrongLeaning over with upper body. All the bend should be in the knees, not the upper body. When you bend / lean over with your upper body, keeping your balance is practically impossible and you will fall.

Tips

surf good pop up surfUse a big soft top surfboard. Sure those little boards look cool, but learning on a board that is too small will make learning to surf far harder and will take you forever. Big soft tops are stable and safe.

surf good pop up surfPractise on the beach. Before going out in the water, practise 15-20 pop ups on the sand.

surf good pop up surfWatch other surfers. See how they do it.

surf good pop up surfAsk for feedback. Ask your surf instructor for tips.

surf good pop up surfStay positive. As easy as some surfers make it look, learning to surf is not easy ! Don’t get discouraged when you make mistakes, we were all beginners once.

Once you have masterered the surfing pop up on a longboard you can start trying the technique on smaller boards. The video below shows how the top pros do their pop up in slow motion on a shortboard at the Surf ranch.

HOW TO SURF: THE POP UP


Here is another good instructional video of the do’s and don’t to master the pop up surf technique

SURF TECHNIQUE POP UP VIDEO







how to generate speed



We hope we made it as clear as possible for you. But feel free to send us a message if something is not clear, or if you want to join us in the Caribbean for a learn how to surf holiday, where our qualified surfing instructors teach you the above steps, and will help you with any questions you might have.

ABOUT SWELL SURF CAMP

Located on the scenic north coast of the Dominican Republic is our purpose built surf resort

We cater for surfers of all levels, from beginners to expert surfers who are looking for an active surf holiday

Swell offers full surf packages holidays

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