WHAT SURFING DOES TO YOUR HEALTH

surf surfing dominican republic

WHY SURFING (AND LEARNING TO SURF) IS ONE OF THE BEST CHOICES FOR A HEALTHY & HAPPY LIFE.

SURF HEALTH

The great thing about surfing is that it’s approachable for people of all ages and all walks of life. Surfing is awesome and a life-changing activity that only requires courage to fly in the ocean. The best part about surfing is that it changes the entire lifestyle by adding thrill and adventure. Below, we highlight certain aspects to show why surfing is the best way to stay in shape.

SURF HEALTH

ALL IN ONE WORKOUT

At first, it’s obvious that surfing is a full-body workout. Your every move on the water requires a combination of physical strength, stamina, and cardio. But don’t worry if you are weak at one thing: it’s not a prior requirement to get started. The only thing that it requires is the energy and motivation inside your heart to glide along the ocean waves.

There is not any specific level of skill and experience to start surfing. Going from paddling to popping up on your surfboard will cardiovascular and upper body strength, and keeping yourself stable on the board will work your legs and core. By following these steps, you are utilizing the entire body while having the time of your life.

Besides physical fitness and impressive anaerobic effects, this sport also brings strength in some other life aspects:

STRESS RELIEF

Spending time with nature, enjoying precious moments, and bringing physical strength to use, combinedly to help to reduce strength and anxiety levels. Regular surfing makes you feel similar to morphine. It can produce an ecstatic feel and an optimistic stance on life.

IMPROVED SLEEP

It’s a well-known fact that exercise decreases sleep complaints, especially sleep disorders, and their effects are pretty much similar to sleeping pills. After paddling for a few hours and riding on the water swells, your body is ready for a healing slumber.

INCREASED VITAMIN D

Exposure to the sun along with a healthy workout causes the increased production of Vitamin D inside your body that helps in calcium absorption, improved body structure, and regulation of body functions.

MIND FULLNESS

Surfing helps you in developing your focus by putting everything else aside. Your concentration is on your body language to keep yourself on the board, merge your heartbeat with the surf, and fly in the ocean.

surf balance

BUILDING BALANCE:

Exercising balance in every sphere of life is key to success. Surfing well requires maintaining balance on the board and keep enjoying a healthy and vigorous ride. Your balanced coordination on the board prevents you from serious injuries. Surfing requires a good balance, and keep practising the sport helps you in developing the skill.

 

Regular surfing strengthens your every day’s fitness and helps you in protecting against common age-related somatic issues like arthritis, tendonitis, and many more.

Many surfers also refer to practice some other exercises, such as pilates and yoga, to improve their core strength, flexibility, and balance and enhance their surfing abilities.

“Core” itself points out the vitality of muscles, including posture to upper-back and lower-back strength.

THE POWER OF PASSION

Perhaps the most impactful benefit of surfing lies in the connection you make to the sport. Your dedication to the sport can give a boost to your overall physical health.

Once a surfer starts feeling less like hard work, the training becomes a piece of enjoyment. Once you are passionate and ambitious for the sport, you try to work out regularly to stay in shape and keep training to become even better.

Connecting to an activity that provides you with a source of enjoyment, along with the workout, makes you feel easier than regular exercise at the gym. A study published in Marketing Letters highlighted that enjoying such activity brings more comfort and relaxation to you.

surf SURFING BENEFITS

The reason behind this is that the part of fun diverts your attention from the required effort.

Moreover, it also reduces the tendency to overeat or have extra calories after the training session.

A LIFETIME OF FITNESS

It is not a one-time activity to put yourself in shape. If you are passionate and ambitious about something, you carry it throughout your life and put all your efforts to maintain it. Especially, physical fitness is an ongoing practice that prolongs your shape and strength. Besides physical health, engaging in activity like surfing can also bring a more peaceful mind to you as well.

Even if you don’t surf regularly, the time you spent on the waves has long-lasting effects.

If you feel bored with your workout routine and ready to switch it with a healthy activity?

Surfing might be the best alternative, and one of your favourite hobbies as well.

BALANCE

Balance is a key to surf on the waves. Once you lost your balance, the whole drama is over, and it might cause an injury to you. The best way to learn about balancing is riding as much as you can.

However, mostly the rides aren’t enough long to get yourself trained because all water swells don’t convert into a wave. Performing lunges and squats can strengthen the glutes and leg muscles, which ultimately helps you to maintain your balance on the board.

If you don’t have a balance board, you can achieve it by closing your eyes and standing at one leg for up to 30 seconds and repeating it again and again. Like other skills, it requires your patience and consistency, so don’t lose it.

DIGITAL DETOX
Another great health benefit of surfing is that (at least for now) it also means you are completely disconnected from digital distractions like phones, computers, TV and social media. When you are out in the water it’s just you, your fellow surfers and the elements for you to enjoy.
At times I have gone out for a 2-hour surf session, barely caught any waves, and still come back feeling happy and fulfilled. Enjoyed a sunrise view, did my paddle exercise and had no distractions on my mind.

surf excersise

SURF FITNESS EXCERSIZES

MAXIMIZE YOUR SURF HEALTH

The following are great examples for people that want to get surf fit before their holiday or to keep doing at home, theses exercises will greatly improve your surf sessions.

CORE: SIDE PLANK WITH REACH THROUGH

surf fitnessThe strength of core muscles is responsible to stabilize your torso to help you in balancing, paddling, and rotation through turns.

The side plank can easily strengthen the layers of your obliques, complying with the rotational component. Lay down on your side, bend your knees, and prop up your upper body on your elbow.

 

Raise off your hips by holding for 8-10 seconds, give a rest for 10 seconds, and do 1-3 sets of 12-15 reps at each side.

LEG STRENGTH: SINGLE LEG SQUATS
surfers healthStronger legs help you in maintaining balance and staying on board for a long time. Whether you are a beginner or an expert, single-leg squats will help you in developing the core and leg strength to paddle at your best and keep enjoying for a long time.

Stand on one foot and lift the other one about 5-7 inches off the ground. Align the knee of the standing foot with the middle toe, lowering down by bending your knee at 45 degrees. You should keep your back straight and head aligned with the shoulders.

Hold for 3-5 seconds in the lowest position and do 3 sets of 5-7 reps on each leg. With time and practice, you can increase the depth of the squats to make it challenging.

 

PRE-SURF WARM-UP: DEEP SQUAT WITH OVERHEAD REACH
surf warm upBefore you start surfing, you need a quick warm-up to give relaxation to your hips and shoulders and set them ready for paddling.

For this purpose, put your feet apart a little wider than the shoulder width. You can slightly turn out your toes to release the tension.

Keep your gaze forward and your torso straight, squat down and touch the ground with both hands for a while, then stand back up. Now, circle your arms and raise them towards the sky.

Repeat this 10-15 times to warm up yourself for the paddling.

SURF PADDLE FITNESS

A surf session is more paddling than surfing on the waves with a ratio of 95% to 5% . If you have not trained your paddling muscles, then your session will be quite short. You can strengthen your paddling muscles with a simple pool workout. This will considerably add to your strength and power.

WARM-UP:
Spend 5-7 minutes on mixed strokes swimming, such as freestyle stroke, butterfly stroke, breaststroke, backstroke, and sidestroke.

MAIN SET:
2 x 100 yards at an energetic pace with ease and comfort.
3 x 50 yards at a relatively faster pace than the previous one, following with the set of 10 pushups after every 50-yards.
4 x 50 yards at your maximum power.

Relax for 2 minutes after every set, and rest for 15-20 seconds after every round.

BREATH CONTROL

Add some underwater swimming, 3-5 sets. Also, consider swimming at a high pace with all your power for at least one round. When getting near the wall, turn quickly and hold your breath under the water as long as you can. This is the perfect simulation for paddling and duck diving.

Besides breath control, it also mentally prepares for such a situation where someone needs to stay underwater.

To make sure your safety, try to practice it with your friend or a person around. The more important is that you remain calm and relaxed, especially when you need air at the peak.

To sum it up, we think learning to surf is one of the best long terms investments you can make for your mental as well as physical health. The fact that it is great fun and it gives you an incentive to travel to exotic place around the world to surf is an added bonus.

Interested in learn surfing in the warm Caribbean waters of the Dominican Republic? At Swell we offer week-long Learn to Surf & Yoga holidays for adults.

Send us a message today, we guarantee to get you up and riding.

surf playa encuentro
Sunrise at our local surf beach

 

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HOW TO PADDLE ON A SURFBOARD

paddling surfboard

SURF TECHNIQUE: HOW TO PADDLE ON A SURFBOARD

The Proper Paddle Technique Explained

Paddling is arguably the most important aspect of surfing. In fact, we probably spend 90% of our time in the water on our stomachs paddling, not on our feet riding waves. So, whether you are you a beginner surfer who can’t seem to figure out a natural paddle technique, or you’re an intermediate or an advanced surfer who always seems to run out of steam on tough paddle outs, improving your paddle technique will ensure you have a better time in the water.

how to paddle on a surfboard

 

Either way, this article how to paddle on a surfboard is for you. Learn the proper technique that will have you gliding, streamlined on top of the water’s surface, and save your shoulders from that dreaded burnout pain. Whether you’re paddling out right in front of our Caribbean surf camp, or your surfing at home, these tips will help get you to the lineup as quickly as possible, fresh, and ready surf.

HOW TO PADDLE ON A SURFBOARD

1. Start with a proper warmup

Paddling can be a bit of a workout, so you should warm up accordingly. Either when you hit the sand, or before you head out of the surf camp. When you paddle, you engage your shoulders and upper back, so be sure your warm-up activates both of those muscle groups.

Additionally, when you paddle, sit in the line-up, and ride waves, your hips are in a closed and locked position. It is crucial for longevity to perform exercises and stretches that will open your hips.

2. Timing is everything, don’t rush

When you arrive at the beach and strap your leash on, don’t just sprint into the water and start paddling madly. Relax, sit down, maybe stretch a bit, but most importantly watch the water.

What are the waves doing? How often are sets coming? Is there a channel to paddle out in? These are all things you must ask yourself and answer before entering the water. Wait for a lull between sets, and head into the water. Walk your board out until you’re in about chest deep water and then hop on and paddle.

surf paddle technique
surf paddle technique

3. Position yourself on the board correctly

Bad positioning plagues many beginner surfers, causing unnecessary drag and therefore hardship during their paddle out. If you’re too far towards the back of the board, the nose of your board will tilt up in the air, slowing your paddle.

Contrastingly, if you’re too far forward on your board, the nose of the board will sink underwater causing unnecessary drag. Find that sweet spot on your board, where the nose is gliding just above the surface, in calm water and remember where you are in reference to a marking on the board (like the logo).

4. Elongate your reach with each stroke

Like swimming, when you learn how to paddle on a surfboard, your body should be as long and stretched out as possible.

With each stroke, you should extend your arm to its furthest possible length. Short and rapid movements will leave you exhausted, while long reaching strokes will send you forward, gliding efficiently over the surface of the water.

5. Move slowly

Have you ever heard the phrase, “Slow is smooth, smooth is fast?” It applies directly to paddling. If you’re at a full sprint trying to paddle out, you won’t make it. You will tire long before you reach the lineup. Slow and smooth long reaching strokes will propel you quickly and efficiently.

7. Don’t overreach on the follow through

Surf Paddle training
Pool paddle training at Swell
When you’re executing the “pull” phase of your paddle stroke, be sure not to drag your hands too far back causing downward (not forward) momentum that will slow your paddle. To execute proper paddle technique, pull your stroke back to chest level, then lift your arm straight out of the water and repeat. When you pull further than your chest, the last portion of your stroke will push your board downward causing you to lose your momentum with each stroke.

8. Keep your elbows high

If you watch 11-time world champion surfer Kelly Slater paddle, you’ll notice how effortlessly he moves through the water. Part of his technique that stands out is that he consistently keeps his elbows high. From the moment Kelly brings his hands out of the water, to the moment he extends his reach, he leads with a high elbow. Keeping your elbows high will increase the effectiveness of each stoke, by keeping your hand and forearm in the vertical position from the start of the stroke. Essentially, it will allow you to move more quickly with less effort.

9. Drag your thumbs

This tip goes hand in hand with the previous tip of keeping your elbows high. If you keep your elbows high, your hands will naturally be low. The idea here is to not bring your hands too far out of the water. When your hand exits the water, it should almost drag on the surface next to you as you bring it forward for the next stroke. By dragging, or nearly dragging, your thumbs in the water as you bring your hands forward for each stroke, you save energy by not engaging your traps. This will allow you to paddle harder for longer and prevent you from burning out due to soreness.

10. Keep your legs and feet in control

While it may be instinctual to kick and try to propel yourself forward, it will actually slow you down. Instead, keep your feet together with your ankles side by side as you paddle. While kicking your feet might help shift your weight forward to actually catch a wave you’re paddling for, when you’re paddling out you do not want your weight too far forward. So, keep those feet still!

11. Keep Your Head Still

Again, if you watch world champ surfer Kelly Slater paddle, his head is still. This may seem inconsequential, but it has a tremendous effect on speed and efficiency in the water. Any swimmer will tell you that keeping your head still will keep your weight centered, not moving it from side to side, reducing drag and increasing speed. The same principle obviously applies to surfing. If your head moves to you right, your body will follow, taking you off your trajectory, digging your rail into the water, and ultimately slowing you down.

12. Your spine is your fulcrum

Similarly, to swimming when you paddle, your spine acts as a fulcrum as your body moves ever so slightly from side to side with each stroke. This slight movement is not intentional, but a byproduct of the reach. To ensure you’re moving correctly, it is best to envision you are moving with a metal rod going through your body from head to tailbone. As stated previously, your head should stay still while you reach out each stroke.

13. Spot the wave and react

The final step to a good paddle out is a proper duck dive or turtle roll. As you paddle out, constantly look out to sea for oncoming waves. When you spot a wave headed your direction, whether it is whitewater or a cresting wave, you’ll want to initiate your duck dive or turtle roll approximately 2 meters from the breaking wave.

Video how to paddle on a surfboard


Just like with any aspect of surfing, practice makes perfect. The best exercise for increased paddle strength and efficiency is paddling out to surf as often as possible. Now that you’ve learned how to perfect your paddle technique, take the next step in progression and learn to properly duck dive and turtle roll by checking out our blog on paddling out!

This article on how to paddle on a surfboard is part of the surf technique series for beginners.
Other articles in this series are:

More info on external websites about how to paddle on a surfboard:

Paddle like Kelly Slater

Interested in learning all the essentials of surfing in an action packed water sport holiday in the Caribbean? Have a look at the surf holiday packages we offer, inlcluding our 1 week learn to surf holiday






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WHAT LEVEL OF SURFER AM I

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WHAT LEVEL OF SURFER AM I?

The question of ‘what level of surfer am I?’ inevitably crops up when you are selecting where to travel, and when to travel to a surf destination (tip; if it doesn’t occur to you, it should). After all, most surf destinations/countries have different surf seasons which may suit different surfing abilities.

If they don’t actually have different seasons, then at least there will be different surf breaks and or tides to consider and match up to your own surfing ability.

what level surfer am i

Here at Swell Surf camp, and at our sister surf hotel, Swell Bali in Indonesia, we are very often tasked with helping a student identify their ‘level’ of surfing and what they are trying to achieve with their surf lessons or surf guiding.

DON’T OVERESTIMATE YOUR SKILLSET

In our experience, most often a student will class themselves as an ‘intermediate’ surfer when they have had a few surf lessons before, but it’s actually not that straightforward. Overestimating your skillset as a surfer will almost inevitably lead to problems/frustration at the very least, and when the ocean is involved there’s an obvious element of danger too. We really want to avoid giving any student a frightening surf experience which could end up putting them off surfing for life.

what level surfer am i
So for us, there are many things which help define what level of surfing you are at. For example, you might have only been surfing a short time (perhaps a few months), but have been lucky enough to get loads of water time, plus the right surfboard and good surf conditions, in which case your progression could have been quite rapid.

But perhaps like many novice surfers we encounter, they’ve already been trying to surf for a while, but just haven’t managed to make any big ‘leaps’ forward.

This could be for any number of reasons. Some examples would be; regularly visiting a surf break which doesn’t enjoy good waves, and/or going out on a board which is too small, and/or choosing to surf in the wrong conditions (which don’t suit your ability), and/or not being very skilled at wave selection and/or (hopefully not) poor surf instruction initially which might have led to you developing some bad habits.

As a result of all these factors, it’s clearly not reliable to accurately define our level of surfing ability just by considering the length of time you’ve been surfing or the number of surf lessons you have taken.

Instead, we can gauge with far more accuracy what level of surfer you really are by actually assessing the skills you have managed to master so far in the water.

What do we mean by that?

In our many years of experience giving surf lessons at many different levels, we usually find surfers classing themselves in one of the 4 following categories; Beginner, Intermediate, Expert or Pro.

But we don’t agree with only using 4 categories as it takes an awful lot of water time and good conditions to progress from Beginner to Intermediate: It is widely accepted that an Intermediate surfer already possesses a lot of surfing skills.

7 CATEGORIES

For us at Swell, we feel there should actually be 7 stages of surfing. We find it really useful with our surf lessons or surf guiding to very accurately assess someone’s surf skills by using these 7 categories, clearly stating the skills mastered within each stage.

OUR 7 LEVEL OF SURFER LEVELS ARE:

  1. BEGINNER
  2. NOVICE
  3. PROGRESSIVE
  4. INTERMEDIATE
  5. ADVANCED
  6. EXPERT
  7. PRO.

Experts and Pros don’t need our help of course, but we do find the subtle changes and skill sets required, especially to get from the Beginner to the Intermediate stage, are worthy of being defined and given their own name as there are so many nuances to take into account with a surfer’s development, especially in the early stages. Let’s talk about those stages and what they mean to us.

SO….WHAT LEVEL OF SURFER ARE YOU?

BEGINNER SURFER

A beginner is exactly that, someone who is just beginning surfing, new to the sport, with no previous surf lessons or surf experience. You will have no idea at all about any aspect of surfing and need complete surf instruction right from the very basics (no shame in that by the way). We love complete beginners at Swell and always give our beginners some exercises they can begin at home to prepare for the rigours of paddling especially, plus tips on how to pop up so that by the time they arrive for their surf holiday/vacation they have a bit of a head start.
beginner surf level

You will be needing to learn:

  • The names of the various parts of the surfboard
  • Aspects of water safety
  • Whether you have a ‘goofy’ stance or a ‘regular’ stance
  • How to lie on the board
  • How to sit on the surfboard in the water
  • How to paddle
  • How to pop-up
  • How it feels to catch a wave and be ‘propelled’
  • How to stand up once you have caught a wave
  • How to improve your stance for balance as the wave carries you
  • Basic theory about how waves are formed
  • How to identify a good wave to catch
  • When to start paddling for the wave

Recommended board for a beginner, adult, average weight :

9’0” long  Soft top surfboard with lots of volume

Ideal wave height:

1′ to 3′ (half a meter to 1 meter) white water / broken waves.

NOVICE

The NOVICE stage applies to you if you have taken some surf lessons before or even visited one or two surf camps in the past and have already mastered the skills listed above. You should also be able to;

Paddle into white water waves or even small green waves unaided (i.e. not being pushed into the wave by someone else)
Able to pop-up on the surfboard and ride for a few meters without falling
Paddle yourself back into position ready for the next wave
Novice surf level

You will be aiming to do the following:

  • Start to read and select waves (learning which ones to leave and which to paddle for)
  • Improve your stance on the surfboard to get ready for;
    trimming (turning slightly) the surfboard to start to ride ‘down the line’ instead of only going in a straight line
  • Learn about surf etiquette

Recommended board for a novice surfer, adult, average weight :

8’0 to 9’0”  Soft or hard top top surfboard

Ideal wave height:

2′ to 4′ (half a meter to 1.2meters) white water / broken waves.

PROGRESSIVE

The progressive stage applies to you if you have already mastered the skills of the BEGINNER AND NOVICE surfer levels above and are now out of the whitewater (i.e. you are now able to ride shoulder/head-high green, unbroken waves). To recap, we would refer to you as a progressive surfer if you can already do the following:

  • Paddle easily out to a break
  • Understand and able to follow priority/surf etiquette in the line-up
  • Read waves and make correct decisions whether or not to take one or not
  • Paddle unaided into chest/head-high waves
  • Pop up quickly with ease
  • Have a good stance on the surfboard
  • Speed up the surfboard on the wave to enable gentle turning:
  • Able to surf a ‘wavy-line’ along the face of a wave, keeping ahead of the whitewater when a wave is not closing out
  • Paddle back out to the line up unaided after taking your wave

Progressive surf level
As a progressive surfer, you will be aiming to achieve the following:

  • Learn how to make a more drastic top turn and bottom turns
  • Taking steeper drops (paddling into larger waves)

Recommended board for a progressive surfer, adult, average weight :

7’0 to 8’0”  Hard top surfboard

Ideal wave height:

2′ to 4′ (half a meter to 1.2meters) unbroken waves.

INTERMEDIATE

An intermediate surfer will have mastered all the skills above; to briefly recap you are an INTERMEDIATE surfer if you can already do the following:

  • Paddle into overhead or larger waves
  • Keep your speed up on a wave to stay ahead of the white water
  • Make more drastic top turns and a bottom turns

As an intermediate surfer, you will probably be aiming to achieve the following:

Intermediate surfer level

  • Learn how to do ‘cutbacks’ (a sharp turn back into the steep part of the wave to make more of a wave’s face)
  • Begin to ‘stall’ yourself on the wave to try to get ‘barrelled’
  • Start learning how to climb on top of the wave’s lip, referred to as a ‘floater’
  • Learn how to come ‘off the lip’ sharply and back into the wave

Recommended board for a progressive surfer, adult, average weight :

6’8″ to 7’8”  Hard top surfboard

Ideal wave height:

3′ to 5′ (1 meter to 1.6meters) unbroken waves.

ADVANCED SURFER LEVEL

A surfer who is at an advanced stage is already able to do the following:

  • Has excellent wave selection
  • Can make controlled high-speed bottom and top turns
  • Can round-house cutback into the steep part of the wave
  • Can get barrelled in medium-height waves
  • Can easily manage a larger, wider bottom turn to rush ahead of a close-out section and re-enter an unbroken part of the wave
  • Can make off-the-lip manoeuvres
  • Floaters

Advanced surfer level
Recommended board for an advanced surfer, adult, average weight :

6’0″ to 6’8”  Hard top surfboard

Ideal wave height:

4′ to 7′ (1.2 meters to 2 meters) unbroken waves.

EXPERT and PRO LEVELS

Expert surfers, and of course Pro surfers, don’t need to have an explanation of what they can achieve on a wave as they have inevitably mastered all the techniques described above + a lot more. 360’s, aerials and being barrelled in huge waves are usually all in their repertoire.
Expert surfer level

This article is aimed more at explaining the difference between the first 5 stages of surfing so that as a surfer with less experience, you can let surf camps or surf hotels like us correctly judge where we should be advising you to surf, what type of surf lesson you might need, or whether you are better off just going out with a surf guide.

Recommended board for an advanced surfer, adult, average weight :

5’5″ to 6’5”  Hard top surfboard

Ideal wave height:

5′ and up

DON’T RUSH, SURFING TAKES TIME

It’s a really terrible idea to overstate your surf experience; not least because you will very likely end up in the wrong surf spot for your ability which can inevitably lead to serious injury, or worse.

Having a frightening experience in waves too large for your skillset can set you back for months if not years. Any good surf coach or guide will quickly progress you through stages if they can see you are able: Noone is going to deliberately hold you back and many surf coaches will naturally push you a little out of your comfort zone as that is generally how we all progress. Surfing is a life-long commitment of learning: Even Pro’s will tell you they are still honing/improving skills on every single wave they take.

We are in the process of making an interactive level guide to help you identify your current surfing-skill set.

Once you have correctly established where you are in your stages of learning, come and see us at Swell Bali, or Swell Surf Camp in the Dominican Republic; we’d love to help you keep getting better! Our luxury surf coaching holidays have taught 1000’s of people the sport of surfing in a safe, fun and quick way. If you need any more assistance in ‘diagnosing’ your surf level, just drop us a line and we will try to help out.

We hope you like this article of “what level of surfer am I?” if you do, you might also like the following article: different surfboard and which boards are best suited at which stage of your surfing level, have a look at this page: Different surfboards
Our luxury surf coaching holidays have taught 1000’s of people the sport of surfing in a safe, fun and quick way.

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SURFBOARDS FOR BEGINNERS

surfboards for beginners

BEST SURFBOARDS FOR BEGINNERS

HOW TO PICK A SUITABLE BEGINNER SURF BOARD

Now that you’ve had your first surfing lessons and have decided to continue your surfing career, how do you go about buying your first surfboards for beginners? How do you decide on what to buy?

You might get objective advice from some staff at the surf shop, but there are those who’re ready to sell anything to you, just to get their commission… or you might end up with a salesperson that knows next to nothing about surfing.

Our best surfboards for beginners recommendations in this article will be determined by certain factors – where you surf, how often you surf, and if & how often you travel for surfing.

VOLUME & BEGINNER SURFBOARDS

Volume is the most important factor when choosing surfboard for a beginner. A board with lots of volume will float better which makes it easier for learners to get to their feet and catch the waves.

Surfboard Volume
Different surfboards & their volume

A lot of people make this mistake when purchasing their first surfboard. Minimals, foam boards and longboards come with lots of volume, Shortboards and any surfboard under 6’6”, not so much.

Volume is usually measured in litres. We think a great beginner surfboard should have at least 60 litres of volume – and even better if there’s more. A minimal longboard surfboard could have between 65-80 litres or more volume. Now let’s compare it to one of those performance shortboard used by surf professionals… which might have about 6’1 x 18 ¼ inch shortboards. Its volume should be about 25 litres. If you want to enjoy a board as small as that, you’ll need a lot of surfing technique and the right waves.

Something we see on a regular basis here at Swell is from people with Snowboard experience, they assume that because they are good snowboarders: learning to surf will be easy and quick for them too. As a result, they want to skip the phase of learning on a bigger board. This will not speed up your surfing learning curve: in fact, it will do the opposite. You have to learn the basics: Paddle technique – catching waves – Riding the white water; All these things are best done on surfboard with more than 60 litres of volume.

MORE WAVES = MORE PROGRES = MORE FUN

Another common mistake is that after dealing with a big longboard in the water for a few days and seeing experienced surfers on their short boards, is to ‘blame’ their slow progress on the longboard. Yes, a long beginners board is not easy to turn, duck dive or handle in white water. In the beginning of your surf career, it’s not able to take on big waves or making nice turns. In the beginning of your surfing, you should focus on 1 thing: catching as many waves as you can. Catching more waves = Quicker Progress = More fun!

surfing holiday

What you will want as a beginning surfer is to catch waves – starting from the white water, then moving to unbroken ‘green’ waves. And if you want to achieve this as a beginner, you’ll need to get a surfboard with lots of volume. So, at this stage volume is the most important thing you need in a surfboard.

Durability is another factor to consider for beginner surfboards because you’ll probably end up knocking the board around a bit while you’re learning which is why you might want to go with something durable.

BEGINNER SURFBOARDS CONSTRUCTION TYPES

SOFT TOP SURFBOARD

Beginner surfboards

These boards come with a soft layer of foam atop them with a slick plastic layer at the bottom.

surf good pop up surfExtremely durable

surf good pop up surfThey don’t come with sharp points; which makes them safer

surf good pop up surfBest value for money

surf good pop up surfUsed by practically all the surf schools

 

MOLDED EPOXY SANDWICH TYPE OF CONSTRUCTION

Epoxy molded surfboard

Bic, NSP & Torq ( which are surfboard brands we use for our Hardtops at Swell) are some of the common brands with this construction type. Although a lot of other brands use similar constructions, they are sometimes called “Pop-outs” about the mould used for shaping the board’s core.

  • Very durable
  • They usually come with removable fins, which are compatible with systems like FCS or Future Fins
  • Great value, is often found in packages with leash & board bags
  • Proven surfboard shapes

TRADITIONAL POLYESTER RESIN

Polyester surfboard

This has been the standard construction for surfboards for years. This surfboard has a soft foam blank shaped into it and layers of fibreglass cloth and polyester resin laminated across the top to give it a harder outer shell and make it more watertight.

  • Fairly lightweight
  • Looks every inch like the traditional surfboard
  • Available in different shapes and sizes
  • Comes with removable fins that are easily replaced
  • Dings and Cracks easily, but can also easily be repaired
  • Turns yellow-ish after a few months in the sun

EPOXY RESIN SURFBOARD

Shaping surfboard
Custom shaping an epoxy surfboard

This board is similar to the polyester boards but with a different foam for its epoxy resin and core, including a fibreglass cloth outer layer.

    • It is lighter than those polyester resin surfboards
    • More durable than polyester resin surfboards
    • Shaped like those traditional surfboards
    • Available in every shape and size
    • Comes with removable fins that are easy to replace
    • Can easily be repaired if cracked or dinged
    • Epoxy boards are lighter boards & more crack-resistant, and their outer layer is more likely to bend not split when struck by something.

Those are the major types of construction out there, so now you understand the advantages of each construction. You can put this information into consideration when considering the shape of surfboard to pick.

THE DIFFERENT SURFBOARDS FOR BEGINNERS

FOAMBOARD/ FOAMIE: LENGTH 7FT – 9FT

Surfboards for beginners

THE GOOD STUFF OF FOAM SURFBOARDS

surf good pop up surfQuite affordable

surf good pop up surfVery stable

surf good pop up surfSoft – which is safer in case you get hit by your board

surf good pop up surfGreat to surf the white-water

surf good pop up surfCan easily catch most waves

THE DOWNSIDE OF FOAMIES:

surf wrongPretty heavy

surf wrongNot much difference between its price and that of hard surfboards

surf wrongNot great for surfing shoulder-high waves

surf wrongNot easy to paddle out in bigger surfs

surf wrongNot very responsive to the surfer’s input

surf wrongWill not provide long-term fun

What we think of foam surfboards

Foam surfboards can be found in 6 and 7ft (for kids and folks that are lighter) including 8 and 8ft versions. The smallest length for a regular adult to lean on is 8ft. However, you should know that there are quite a number of low-quality, cheap and badly constructed foamies for sale on sites like Ali express and eBay.

Foamies are perfect for people who have never surfed before or are in their first stages of learning to surf

However, if you are going to surf on a regular basis you will grow out of the soft top with 5 to 15 surf sessions and want to move onto a hardtop, so our advice is to rent a soft top at your local surf school or join a surf camp like Swell and then move onto the hardtop boards like the ones listed below

FIBERGLASS PU OR EPOXY LONG BOARD: LENGTH 8FT – 9FT+

beginner surfboard

THE GOOD STUFF

surf good pop up surfIt is faster and easier to manoeuvre than those foam boards

surf good pop up surfCan be used to learn longboard moves such as hanging 5, cross stepping, etc.

surf good pop up surfCan be used to surf bigger head waves (provided you can actually paddle out)

surf good pop up surfShould have good resale value if you ever want to sell

surf good pop up surfSome people are so in love with longboards that they want to surf forever on them

THE DOWNSIDE

surf wrongIf it is over 8ft long it won’t fit in most cars

surf wrongQuite bulky to carry around

surf wrongThe fact that it is hard means it will hurt more if it hits you compared to foam boards

surf wrongHarder to catch waves with them than foam boards

surf wrongMost airlines don’t allow passengers to check in longboards because of their length

surf wrongThey work better with unbroken ‘green’ waves because they’re not designed to ride white water.

Our Thoughts:

These boards are great for intermediate surfers who want to progress from their first surf lessons on a soft top

This board will keep you entertained for 1 or 2 seasons so you can learn all the surfing fundamentals

Some People love the glide and feel of these boards that they never move onto a shorter board but will stick with this length and type of surfboards for the rest of their surfing career.

Verdict: Recommended as first surfboard/

Worth noting: Not every ‘long’ board is a suitable board for a beginner. There are a lot of high-performance longboards on the market which are geared toward the expert longboarder, they are not very good to learn on. Ask at your local surf shop or bring a friend who can tell the difference.

MINI-MAL SURFBOARDS: LENGTH 7’4 – 8’0

Mini Mal Surfboard

THE GOOD STUFF

surf good pop up surfThe board is smaller so you can easily carry it around

surf good pop up surfYou can fit a 7’6 into a small car

surf good pop up surfEasier to paddle it in bigger surfs compared to large foam boards

surf good pop up surfIt is also quite progressive, so you can actually enjoy this board for a while

surf good pop up surfThere are people who will rather surf on minimal shaped surfboards

surf good pop up surfCan be taken on planes – i.e. airlines with an 8ft limit

THE DOWNSIDE

surf wrongMore difficult to catch waves compared to foamies or long boards

surf wrongThey’re not so soft, so you might want to avoid getting hit with them

surf wrongA minimal board is still a large board so it might be a little difficult to navigate high waves (though it is advisable to stick to smaller waves if you’re a beginner).

surf wrongThey’re slower than the smaller surfboards

Our Thoughts:

Not a bad board for someone to buy after they have had 5 or so sessions on a soft top, however, works best in this size range for lighter men, women or kids.

Verdict: Recommended as a first surfboard for any surfer!

FUN SHAPES

surf funshape

Fun shaped surfboards like minimals are smaller versions of longboards without their middle 2ft.
Comes with thruster and single fin options

THE GOOD STUFF

surf good pop up surfThey’re easier to carry since they’re lighter than foamies and large long boards

surf good pop up surfThese boards which are a little smaller than minimals are faster and easier to paddle out when the surf becomes bigger

surf good pop up surfSmall enough to meet the requirements of most airlines

surf good pop up surfIt is also quite progressive, so you can actually enjoy this board for a while

surf good pop up surfIt is quite popular among surfers, so it has great resale value

surf good pop up surfIt can fit into most cars

THE DOWNSIDE

surf wrongIt doesn’t have as much volume as a long board, so it would require a little more effort to actually catch waves

surf wrongIt is harder to learn on this board than on a longer board

surf wrongHave to be surfed in more critical parts of the wave to generate enough speed and lift

Our Thoughts:

Not the quickest way to progress in your surfing, you will catch fewer waves and most likely have shorter rides than on the boards listed above. On the plus side, they do cater to a large variety of surf conditions

Verdict: Not ideal but can work as a first surfboard purchase

SHORT BOARDS

Short surf board

THE GOOD STUFF

surf good pop up surfGreat designs at affordable prices

surf good pop up surfMore manoeuvrable and faster than all the other boards mentioned above (fun boards, foamies, minimals and long boards).

surf good pop up surfThey are light and easy to manoeuvre

surf good pop up surfEasier to duck dive with them under waves whenever you’re paddling out

surf good pop up surfCan surf both small waist high and overhead waves

surf good pop up surfThey’re small enough to fit the requirements of most airlines

THE DOWNSIDE

surf wrongBeginners catch very few waves

surf wrongWaves need to be caught and surfed in the critical part of the wave

surf wrongVery unstable in small waves

Our Thoughts:

Unless you are young, light and/ or a very very quick progressing surfer with lots of talent, it is not recommended to buy a small shortboard as your first surfboard. You will struggle learning the basics and the gap from a soft-top foamie to a shortboard is huge

Verdict: Don’t buy a standard shortboard as your first surfboard when you are still a beginner / intermediate surfer.

Our final thoughts on the best surfboards for beginners

Buying a surfboard is always a compromise, at the stage of your surf career, every surfboard has different characteristics: some work better in hollow waves, some work better in big waves etc. Starting off your first season as a surfer, we think one of the most important aspects of your surfing should be to catch as many waves as possible.

Bigger boards work well in being able to catch lots of waves and providing good stability once you are up and riding. Yes, shortboards are better for advanced manoeuvres, but…. if you can’t catch the waves in the first place you will not be pulling any fancy moves at all.

Lots of surf shops are also affiliated with a local surf school ( or run one themselves), so ask them if it’s possible to try a certain board from their rental pool before buying it.

Volume is your friend: more volume = more waves = more fun!

If you have any questions about this article on best surfboards for beginners, do contact us.

 

WHERE TO BUY A NEW BEGINNER SURFBOARD?

Ok, there are tons of places online to buy cheap surfboards:  Amazon, Alibaba and other online surf shops, our advice?

BUY AT YOUR LOCAL SURF SHOP!

Besides supporting a local business, they will also be able to give you good advice on local surf conditions at the nearby surfing beaches, and they are also a great way to meet other fellow surfers in the area. A good shop owner will also be able to give you advice on sizing the right surfboard for your weight/lengths and level of surfing.

QUICK QUESTIONS ABOUT BEGINNER SURFBOARDS

Q: Should you buy a beginner surfboard?
A: Don’t spend too much, you’ll ‘grow’ out of your soft top in 15 or so surf sessions, rent one or use a beginner oft top surfboard at surf school or surf camp.

Q: I do want to buy a beginner surfboard , how much do they cost?
A: New between 150 and 500 USD. Used between 50 and 250 USD

Q: What type of surfboard should I get as a beginner?
A: Lenght wise: something bigger than 8 foot with lots of volume, ideally with a soft top for safety.

Q: Is a 6’6 surfboard good for a beginner?
A: No

SURFING AT AN OLDER AGE

ABOUT SWELL SURF CAMP

Located on the scenic north coast of the Dominican Republic is our purpose-built surf resort with a learn to surf package beginner surf camp package

We cater for surfers of all levels, from beginners to expert surfers who are looking for an active surf holiday

We at Swell offers full surf packages holidays

surf learning to surf

Interested in learning how to surf? Have a look at the surf vacation packages we offer for our guests at Swell Surf camp

MORE SURFBOARD INFO

Different surfboard shapes explained

surf surftechnique

Our luxury surf coaching holidays have taught 1000’s of people the sport of surfing in a safe, fun and quick way.

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10 REASONS TO VISIT CABARETE

visit cabarete dominican republic

10 Reasons to Visit Cabarete

Once a minute fishing village on the Dominican Republic’s northern shores, Cabarete now stands as the extreme sports capital of the island, if not the whole Caribbean. While Cabarete is home to some of the Dominican’s most pristine beaches, it is much more than just a scenic destination from which to take in coastal views. When most travelers think of the DR, they conjure images of massive all-inclusive resorts that stick out from the coastline like an unwanted growth. Cabarete does not fit this mold.

While Cabarete is not lacking in lodging options, there is wild and untamed land to explore, isolated beaches to stroll, and of course waves to surf. Keep reading to learn 10 reasons why you need to make Cabarete, Dominican Republic your next travel destination.

1. It’s superb for beginner surfers wanting to learn to surf.

Learning to surf is tough, and if you’re not on beginner-friendly waves, it can be near impossible to progress. Fortunately for beginner surfers, Cabarete is full of fun and forgiving waves that will have you up and riding in no time. Playa Encuentro, where our boutique surf resort is located, is home to a variety of surf breaks suitable for all levels. Beginner surfers will find a picturesque beach break with a friendly sand bottom, perfect for learning.

Our surf school spends the majority of their time at Bobos, a perfect learning wave. In addition to surfing in model learning conditions at Playa Encuentro, guests at Swell Surf Camp will have the opportunity to learn from the best surf instructors on the island and participate in surf theory classes.

2. There are serious surf breaks for advanced surfers

In addition to beginner-friendly breaks, Playa Encuentro is home to some serious reef breaks that attract intermediate and advanced surfers from all over the world. Destroyers, a racing, and hollow reef break is ideal for bodyboarders and expert only surfers who are looking for doggy door exit barrels. “The left” is exactly what it sounds like, a solid left-hand reef break that turns on during winter months and provides long, clean rides.

The main peak at Encuentro has a fun left and right-hander for intermediate and advanced surfers. Coco Pipe, right next to Bobos, is a fast-breaking shallow reef break for experts only. There are even a few offshore reefs that can turn on during the right swell. So, regardless of your level of expertise, Playa Encuentro has a surf break for you.

3. You can learn to Kitesurf

While the morning in Playa Encuentro and throughout Cabarete’s coastline is perfect for surfing, the afternoons are idyllic for kiting. Cabarete’s beaches aren’t just some of the best in the country, or the Caribbean, for kiting, they rank among the best in the entire world. Kite surfers travel far and wide to get to the shores of Cabarete and showcase their talents at Kite Beach.

Fortunately for travelers looking to take up a new hobby, Cabarete is also home to some of the best kitesurf instructors in the world. Learning to kite can be dangerous, so it is important to learn from the best. Cabarete boasts a variety of kiting spots that cater to all levels. Advanced kite surfers will find the waves at the outer reefs to be a suitable challenger, while beginners will feel safe and comfortable in the calm waters of Kite Beach and La Boca.

4. It’s close to El Choco National Park

Located less than 15 minutes from the beach and the center of Cabarete, El Choco National Park gives travelers the opportunity for an unparalleled wilderness adventure. With hiking and mountain bike trails, glistening freshwater lagoons, and a labyrinth of caves to explore, El Choco National Park is a paradise for those seeking adventure. The park is home to a diverse array of species, including over 30 species of birds, lizards, and bats. Explore the park solo, or with a bilingual guide.

5. The local nightlife

Cabarete shines just as brightly during the night as its sun-soaked shores do during the day. A plethora of small, beach bars and night clubs line the waterfront and offer cocktails, live music, and all the fun a traveler could ask for. If you’re looking for a high-end night, head to Ocean World Marina to visit the variety of restaurants and entertainment options, including a casino. Start your night off with sunset drinks under the shady, palm tree adjacent bars on Cabarete beach and see where the night takes you.

6. Horseback riding along the beach has never been more fun

In Cabarete, horseback riding on the beach is taken to a whole new level at the pristine Sea Horse Ranch Equestrian Center. Go for trail rides through the jungle, explore the coastline on horseback, or even take lessons. The center offers tours on over 7-miles of trails and beaches. Advanced riders can even take lessons in jumping and other advanced equestrian activities.

7. The DR’s world-class snorkeling & diving

Situated on the northern shores of the Dominican Republic, Cabarete is ideally position for snorkeling and diving expeditions into the enchanting Caribbean Sea. Just a stone’s throw from Cabarete is the town of Sousa, where many dive and snorkeling tours operate. If you’re a first-time diver, fret not, there are plenty of programs that will get you PADI certified in just a few classes. For more advanced divers, or those looking to snorkel, many companies offer full-day or half-day expeditions.

8. It’s within reach of secluded beaches

Playa Caleton, a calm watered, crescent-shaped, secluded beach is the perfect getaway for travelers looking for a little extra relaxation. The isolated shores of Playa Caleton are surrounded by lush vegetation and rocky outcrops, many of which are carved into unique sculptures. Take a dip in the emerald green water or relax on the sandy shores, either way, you’re sure to fall in love with Playa Caleton.

9. Cabarete’s unique local food scene

While Cabarete is small compared to many travel destinations in the Dominican, its food scene is both authentic and diverse making it perfect for food-loving travelers. In Cabarete, travelers will find a diverse food scene with options from all over the world. In the mood for Mexican? Head to Gordito’s Fresh Mex, a local favorite with plans to expand all over the DR. Want something a bit more authentic?

Wilson’s at La Boca is a BBQ beach shack that serves up freshly grilled fish among other favorites. Cabarete Coffee Company serves up breakfast favorites, smoothies, and of course excellent coffee. Cabarete beach is also a hub for fine dining. Enjoy fresh seafood or steaks cooked to perfection at La Casita de Papi’s Seafood.

10. The many adventure opportunities

Cabarete may be the watersport capital of the Caribbean, but there are endless opportunities for adventure inland as well. One of the most popular activities amongst Swell Surf Camp guests—other than surfing— is canyoning through Cabarete’s nearby waterfall system.

This adrenaline-filled adventure will have you jumping off waterfalls, swimming through gorges, and exploring caves. Another popular activity among travelers in Cabarete is ziplining at Laguna Dudu. The zipline at Laguna Dudu is not your average zip line, it sends you soaring above the lagoon from the nearby cliffs before you plunge into the picturesque water.

START SURFING TODAY!

As well as the physical and psychological benefits of surfing and the way it allows for a healthy lifestyle, you can also meet new people and forget about the stresses of life for a couple of hours. To finish our guide, we want to provide a few considerations before booking your first surf lesson!

Your height and weight aren’t important because there are various shapes and sizes of boards.

  • Don’t worry about your fitness levels right now because your stamina will improve over time.
  • Surfboards can even be custom-made, if necessary.
  • You should NEVER feel as though you’re too old to start surfing.

Don’t live life according to other people’s expectations or rules, make your own rules (perhaps not on the road, but you get the idea!). If you feel you’ll enjoy surfing and you like the sound of the many benefits we’ve discussed here today, we have three words for you; GO FOR IT!

ABOUT SWELL

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught 1000’s of people the basics of surfing.

Age? Well the average age of a Swell client is 37, which roughly means for every 20 year old we teach the sport of surfing, we also teach a 54 year old. We have taught people well in their 60’s the sport of surfing

Adult surf camp
Learn to surf in the Caribbean with us

Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

learn to surf holiday

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding…regardless of your age!

 

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WHY YOU SHOULD BE RIDING A LONGBOARD

longboard surfing

10 REASONS WHY YOU SHOULD BE SURFING A LONGBOARD

Whether you’re learning how to surf, or you’ve been doing it all your life, if you are not currently riding a longboard, or you don’t have a longboard in your quiver then you are missing out. Not only is longboarding tool to learn how to surf Longboarding is the original form of surfing, and there is nothing as stylish, graceful, and in tune with a wave as a skilled longboarder. Surfers started to stray from longboarding with the radical advancements in board shaping that occurred during the seventies and eighties. New surfers were no longer interested in surfing a longboard and doing hanging tens or cheater fives, rather than opt for the endless style of longboarding surfers turned to twin fins and eventually thrusters.

Shortboards brought about new, progressive manoeuvres that ultimately advanced surfing to new heights. But there is something to be said about tradition and going back to the roots of surfing. Longboarding has a lot to offer every surfer, not just beginners. If you’re a surfer who has never truly put in the hours on a longboard, then do yourself a favour and truly learn how to longboard. The results will be evident in your surfing, no matter what you have underfoot.

1. LONGBOARDS ARE PERFECT FOR PEOPLE LEARNING TO SURF

Every surfer should start out on a longboard. Learning how to surf can be a frustrating process, and that frustration is only compounded when trying to learn on the wrong board. A longboard provides beginner surfers with ample surface area that will catch waves with ease and feel stable on the takeoff. Surfers who learn on shortboards or try to jump down in board length too quickly will develop bad habits such as popping up with a dropped knee.

Additionally, learning to manoeuvre and generate speed on a longboard increases a surfer’s understanding of wave mechanics. Learning to walk the board allows surfers to explore the waves face and learn which sections contain speed.

2. INCREASE YOUR DAYS IN THE WATER

Longboards are wave catching machines, plain and simple. The surf does not need to be pumping for a surfer of any level to have a good session on a longboard. The harsh reality of surfing is that waves are rarely perfect.

Your local break might be “world-class” with the right swell and wind direction, but how often does that happen? Even if you know how to surf, and you consider yourself an advanced surfer, a longboard will increase your days in the water. It may as well be law that a day surfing small waves on a longboard is better than a day of not surfing at all.

3. IMPROVE YOUR SURFING

To learn to longboard is to learn how to surf. No one starts out on a shortboard, at least they shouldn’t. It is common practice for beginners to start on soft tops or longboards, and gradually reduce the length of their board as they progress. Longboards, however, are not just for beginners. While it is widely believed that longboards are for novice surfers, longboards actually serve as an invaluable progression tool for all levels of surfers.

When you longboard, things slow down, allowing surfers to deeply study the form and shape of the wave. Each longboarding session turns into a lesson in wave mechanics.

4. LEARN TO NOSE RIDE

Surfing a Longboard
Surfing a Longboard

Nose riding was once seen as the pinnacle of progressive surfing. In the 1960s, longboards were the standard surf craft, board shorts featured 3-inch inseams, and nothing was cooler than being able to ride with your toes hanging off the noise of your board.

To be able to hang ten or perform a cheater five, takes skill, balance, and a deep understanding of wave mechanics. I don’t know a single surfer who can noise ride, who doesn’t also rip on a shortboard.

5. IMPROVE YOUR STYLE

Watching a skilled surfer on a longboard is akin to watching ballet. Riding a longboard well is essentially an intricate dance that requires grace, balance, strength, and a great deal of skill. Style and grace may seem to come naturally to some surfers, but in actuality, they are born out of repetition and deep study.

Learning to longboard will inevitably increase a surfer’s skill and style.

6. LONGER RIDES

Along with more days in the water and an increased wave count, surfing a longboard will also provide lengthier rides. The high volume and length that allow longboards to be able to catch more waves than smaller surfboards, will also increase the length of each ride. Longboards have so much volume that they can cruise through the slow sections of a wave that will typically end a short boarders ride. Additionally, longboarders can easily ride through the ankle-high white water after a wave closes out and reach the reform.

Once you learn to longboard, don’t be surprised if many of your rides take you all the way to the beach.

Surfing Longboard
Surfing Longboard

7. YOU’RE NEVER TOO OLD TO SURF A LONGBOARD

The high volume and length of longboards make them incredibly easy to paddle and manoeuvre, therefore longboards are an ideal surf vessel for those of us who are a bit over the hill age-wise. If your shoulders can’t handle the wear and tear of paddling a board that may be shorter than you and sinks halfway into the water with you on it, then it may be time to learn how to longboard. If your hips cannot perform the jerky movements it takes to pump down the line on a shortboard, then it may be time to learn to longboard.

And if you do not have the strength to submerge your board underwater to duck dive, then it may be time to learn how to longboard.

8. NEVER GET SKUNKED ON A SURF TRIP

Longboard surfing

The seventh circle of hell most likely involves a perpetual cycle of booking a surf trip to some far-flung tropical surf paradise, only to arrive to find that there is no trace of a swell. No one likes getting skunked, but if the waves are small wouldn’t you still want the ability to surf? That’s where a trusty longboard comes in handy.

You may not get spit out of stand-up barrels, but at least you can catch a few waves on a trip where things don’t exactly go as planned.

9. CRUISY AND RELAXING RIDES

surf surf longboard

Whether you’re just learning how to surf or you’ve been at it for twenty years, you’ll love the laid back, cruisy rides that longboards offer. There’s no need to tire yourself out paddling, just a few hard strokes will put you into virtually any catchable wave. There is no need to take off late and drop in on a steep pitching face, longboards will have you into a wave and on your feet early.

And there’s no need to wear yourself out by tirelessly pumping to get down the line, simply cruise and enjoy the ride.

In conclusion, if you know how to surf, great hop on a longboard. If you don’t know how to surf, no problem at all hop on a longboard and learn. If you’re on the world tour or you’re just an average beach bum, hop on a longboard and you’re guaranteed to have a blast in the water.

LONGBOARDING SURF VIDEO


The above longboarding surf video is filmed in Indonesia, interested in a surf holiday in Bali, Indonesia? Visit Swell Bali, our brand new Bali surf hotel in Bingin, bali.

ABOUT SWELL

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught 1000’s of people the basics of surfing.

Age? Well the average age of a Swell client is 37, which roughly means for every 20 year-old we teach the sport of surfing, we also teach a 54-year-old. We have taught people well in their 60’s the sport of surfing

Adult surf camp
Learn to surf in the Caribbean with us

Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

learn to surf holiday

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding…regardless of your age!

ABOUT SWELL SURF CAMP

Located on the scenic north coast of the Dominican Republic is our purpose built surf resort

We cater for surfers of all levels, from beginners to expert surfers who are looking for an active surf holiday

Swell offers full surf packages holidays

If you like this article about learning to surf after 40 you might also like the following articles.

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SURFBOARD DESIGN 101

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SURFBOARD DESIGN 101

Surfboard shaping and design have both changed significantly over the last few decades. Shaping trends are constantly changing. In the seventies, the twin-fin fish began to dominate line ups. Surfers were completely enthralled by the newfound speed and maneuverability of a shorter board. In the eighties, the thruster was designed and changed performance surfing forever. In the nineties and into the new millennium, high-performance boards were long, thin, and completely rockered out for maximum maneuverability. Today, high-performance boards are getting shorter and fatter with an increased focus on the volume under the chest. But what do all these design features really do? How does a board with low entry rocker compare to one with plenty of rocker when you’re actually surfing? What’s the difference in feel between a single fin, a twin fin, a thruster, and a quad? If you’ve ever wanted to know the ins and outs of surfboard design, you are in the right place. From design to function, this article explores all the intricacies of board design

surfboard

SURFBOARD LENGTH

Length is a pretty intuitive design feature. The length is the measure of the surfboard from the tip of the nose to the tail. But there is more to length than one might think. Just a few inches taken or added to a board will create a noticeably different ride. The basic school of thought when it comes to length is that the more length a board has, the easier it will be to catch waves. Surfers may ride longboards on small days, or when the surf is maxing out, they may opt for larger step-ups and even big wave guns for help paddling into waves that would be otherwise too large and too fast to catch.

SURFBOARD WIDTH

Width is the measurement of a surfboard across the board at its widest point. Width plays a role in a few different aspects of surfing. The more surface area a board has, the more it will float, the easier it is to paddle, and the easier it is to catch waves. One way shapers achieve this increased surface area without adding length to a board is by increasing width. Small wave grovelers often feature wide tails; this allows surfers to catch more waves. A board with a wide nose might do well in small surf, but it struggles in large surf with steep faces because a narrow nose allows for a steep drop.

SURFBOARD VOLUME

Volume has always been an important variable in surfboard design, but it is only recently that shapers and surfers alike are starting to pay close attention to it. There has been a surplus of high volume shortboards coming to market in the last five years. While it may be true that more surface area increases a boards ability to catch waves, it is only true because more surface area adds more total volume. The volume is the amount of space the board occupies: the combination of height, width, and thickness. Today, shapers are paying extra attention to volume and using it to cut inches and even feet off traditional shortboards. By putting more volume under the chest of any board, a shaper is able to reduce the length significantly. With a reduced length, the board becomes more maneuverable.

See the surfboard volume calculator (opens in new window)

TAIL

The tail is the back end of the surfboard. Its shape and thickness directly affect the performance of the board on a wave. The shape of the tail either allows the board to maintain hold on a wave’s face through a turn or release quickly. For example, a rounded tail can hold, but a tail with a wing feature or a swallow tail release the board from the waves face.

SURFBOARD RAILS

Rails are the edges of the board. Rails affect boards speed, planning ability, and tube riding ability. Thick rails, for example, will plane well and allow for a lot of speed. A hard, low rail has plenty of hold to the waves face, perfect for a good tube riding.

ROCKER

Rocker is a term that refers to the curvature of the board. A dramatic, heavy, or steep rocker will be more curved, while a flat rocker will be less curved. A steep rocker at the nose of the board allows the surfer to take steep drops. Contrastingly, a board that has a steep tail rocker or a steep rocker for the length of the board allows the surfer more maneuverability because the board has fewer contact points on a wave and therefore, less drag. High-performance boards often have intricate rockers that allow surfers to perform in steep, dynamic surf. Small wave boards often have flat rockers allowing the board to plane and maintain speed through slow sections of the wave.

FOIL

Foil refers to the thickness of the board or the distribution of foam from nose to tail. Foil has been a key component of the recent focus on volume. Putting a large amount of volume under the chest requires a combination of added width and thickness. While the thickness of the noise, middle, and tail of the surfboard may weigh heavily on the board’s performance, they allow for increased paddle ease and ability to catch waves.

SURFBOARD FINS

Fins propel the board forward, dictate the turning radius, create hold on a waves face, and much more. So obviously, fin set up directly affects the board’s performance and feel. While there are a few novelty few setups that have gone in and out of fashion over the years, such as the bonzer or the asymmetrical setup, there are four standard fin setups: single fin, thruster, twin fin, and quad.

THRUSTER

The thruster (3 fins) is, perhaps, today’s most common fin set up. When the thruster first appeared on the scene during the 1980s, most surfers were riding twin fins that offered a lot of speed, but not much maneuverability. The addition of the back fin provided surfers enough control to be able to turn on a dime. The thruster set up allows surfers to change direction with ease and carve out massive turns on an open face. This increased maneuverability completely changed progressive surfing and brought about the power surfing style that was popularized in the ’90s.

TWIN FIN

The twin fin came into popularity during the 1970s with the rise of “the fish.” These unique shortboards, with two fins placed far apart, allowed surfers to reduce drag and increase speed. Twin fins are ideal, and a blast, in small to medium waves where they provide optimal maneuverability and flow.

QUAD

The Quad fin set up (4 fins) leans heavily on the basic science behind the twin fin, a wide space between fins for water to flow equals speed. However, the extra two fins on the quad provide additional hold, which comes in handy in smaller waves.

Quads with the trailer fin closer to the rails and further up on the board, perform great on smaller waves, like a twin fin but with a bit more control.

Quads with the trailer fins further back provide extra hold in large hollow barrels, without sacrificing speed.

SINGLE FIN

Today, most single fin surfboards are longboards, but that wasn’t always the case. Single fins offer surfers long, drawn out, arching turns. The one large fin offers plenty of hold but does not have the maneuverability of a board with three fins, regardless of the board’s length.

DECK

The deck refers to the top of the surfboard where a surfer places his or her feet. The most common deck types are domed or flat.

BOTTOM CONTOUR

A surfboards bottom contour directly affect speed, turning ability, and style. A hull or convex bottom provides a smooth ride, sits low and the wave, and moves slowly. Contrastingly, a concave bottom offers a fast and maneuverable ride, allowing the board to skip along the surface of the water, push water back towards the fins, and create lift.

While the complexities of surfboard design may fall flat on many riders, the more informed you are on the matter, the more likely you are to be able to find the perfect board for your skill level and style. So, pick out that perfect board and bring it down to our Caribbean surf resort!

MORE INFO ABOUT SURFBOARDS, SHAPES AND DESIGNS:

– The Swell article surfboard shapes give you more insight into the different types of shapes.
– New to surfing? Read the beginners surfboard guide.
– What is needed to get you into this? Read the surf equipment and accessories page.
– Don’t want to bring your surfboard to Cabarete? See our list of surfboards for rent in Cabarete

ABOUT SWELL

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught 1000’s of people the basics of surfing.

Adult surf camp Learn to surf in the Caribbean with us

Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf at our surf retreat?

ABOUT SWELL SURF CAMP

Located on the scenic north coast of the Dominican Republic is our purpose built surf resort

We cater for surfers of all levels, from beginners to expert surfers who are looking for an active surf holiday

Swell offers full surf packages holidays

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SURF , WAVE, SWELL AND BREAK TERMINOLOGY

wave guide

SURF, WAVE, SWELL AND BREAK TERMINOLOGY

THE ULTIMATE WAVE GUIDE

Topics covered and explained in the Surf, waves, swell and break terminology:

  • Understanding Swell
    • Ground Swell
    • Wind Swell
  • Understanding Wave Formation
    • Concave Refraction
    • Convex Refraction
  • Understanding Surf Breaks
    • Beach Break
    • Point Break
    • Reef Break
  • Wave anatomy
    • The Peak
    • The Shoulder
    • The Face/ Wall
    • The Lip
    • The Channel
understanding wave forecasts
Different types of waves

To a non-surfer, a wave is just a wave. In actuality, waves are like fingerprints; no two are alike. The same is true for wave setups; no single break is exactly the same as another one anywhere in the world. In order to improve one’s skills, a surfer must have a firm grasp on wave mechanics and an in-depth knowledge of a variety of different types of surf breaks.

WAVE GUIDE

To understand surf breaks and wave mechanics, we must look at how waves are formed by swell and where swell comes from.

UNDERSTANDING SWELL

The sun is the origin of all surf. Solar energy creates wind, and winds blow across vast areas of open ocean to create energy that eventually organizes itself into swell.

When swell travels great distances or combines with other swells, it can increase in size and interval. There are two types of swell that cause surf, groundswell, and wind swell.

GROUND SWELL

ground swell
Ground swell

Groundswell is the type of swell surfers hope and pray for; it often creates large and powerful surf.

Groundswell is created by large storm and weather systems or strong wind blowing over long distances of open ocean. Groundswell can travel for thousands of miles, and the wave energy can reach up to 1,000 feet in depth. Ground swells typically produce long interval swell and large surf once they make landfall.

WIND SWELL

wind swell
Wind swell

Wind swell is created by less powerful, more localized wind systems.

The wave energy from wind swells do not run as deep, and they only travel short distances across open ocean.

The result is usually smaller surf with a shorter interval.

UNDERSTANDING WAVE FORMATION

WAVE REFRACTION
Wave refraction

When swell finally reaches shallow water- whether that be a continental shelf, a reef system, or a sand bar- it is slowed and finally releases its energy in the form of breaking waves.

When swell bends horizontally as it breaks, it is called refraction. Refraction steers swell towards or away from shore. Some coves on the same coast during the same swell can have pumping waves while others are as calm as lakes.

This occurrence is caused by the varying ocean floor contours that cause different types of refraction. There are two types of refraction that can occur, depending on the ocean floor topography, concave refraction, and convex refraction.

CONCAVE REFRACTION

When open ocean swell comes into contact with an abrupt, protruding change in the ocean floor that is surrounded by deeper water- often a reef or sand bar- the swell will bend at its far ends as it turns into a breaking wave.

The center portion of the swell is slowed by the protrusion. The result resembles a bowl shape that travels towards the shore, with the “opening of the bowl” facing the shore.

CONVEX REFRACTION

When open ocean swell collides with a protruding headland, such as a cliff, jetty, or even a pier, the portion of swell confronting the headland slows, while the rest of the line of swell continues forward at pace.

The result closely resembles a “C” shape with the curved side moving towards the shore. This is known as convex refraction, and it nearly mirrors concave refraction in appearance.

UNDERSTANDING SURF BREAKS

Beyond refraction, ocean floor topography plays a role in determining how a wave breaks, not just how it bends. Surf breaks are categorized in three different ways: beach breaks, reef breaks, and point breaks. Understanding the differences between surf breaks is key to not only progressing as a surfer but staying safe in the water.

At Swell Surf Camp, our clients have access to a variety of surf break types that will match their surf skill level. The Dominican Republic is home to a vast system of reef and beach breaks.

BEACH BREAK

Beach break
Beach break

If you’re a first-time surfer, it’s best to find a mellow beach break to learn. Beach breaks are typically the safest types of surf break. Incoming swell breaks over sand bars versus harsh rocks or reef.

The shape and size of the wave are directly influenced by the sand bars that are constantly shifting. Beach breaks typically offer a variety of peaks compared to reef or point breaks that might only have one take off zone.

POINT BREAK

Point Break
Point Break

Point breaks, as the name suggests, are waves that break on a point, a protruding land mass that is perpendicular to the wave’s direction.

This point can be natural or manmade, such as a jetty. The wave at most point breaks is slow forming and offers surfers a long ride with a carve-worthy wall. Point breaks are great for surfers who are looking to progress and learn to carve / turn.

REEF BREAK

Reef break
Reef break

A reef break is created by a wave breaking over a rock or coral formation under water. Reef breaks can either have submerged reef or exposed reef.

A submerged reef is a rock formation that has been covered by sand. Submerged reefs are typically safer to surf over than any other type of reef. The exposed reef is often sharp and dangerous to step on. Additionally, reef systems can have other hazards, like sea urchins.

Reef breaks do, however, offer a consistent peak and wave shape that you would not find at a beach break.

WAVE ANATOMY

In order to successfully catch and ride waves, a surfer must comprehend basic wave anatomy. Where should you take off? What parts of the wave have the most speed? Where is a safe place to wait for incoming surf? All of these questions can be answered by digging a little deeper into the anatomy of a wave.

THE PEAK

One mistake many first-time surfers make is paddling for any incoming wave no matter where they are positioned compared to the peak. The peak of a wave is its highest point and the ideal take-off point for surfers. A wave begins to break at the peak making it the steepest portion of the wave and the easiest place to take off.

THE SHOULDER

The shoulder of a wave is a flatter and more mellow section of the wave that sits down the line from the peak. The shoulder is a great place to sit and watch your friends score waves.

THE FACE/ WALL

The face or wall of a wave is the steep, vertical section of a breaking wave just in front of the “pocket.” Our goal as surfers is to ride on the face of the wave just in, or slightly in front of, the pocket. Once a surfer gets too far down the face of the wave (closer to the shoulder), they cut back so that they can ride in the pocket of the wave. Beginner surfers will find that their rides will be cut short if they ride in front of the face of the wave, rather than on it. The vertical section of the wave has the most power.

THE LIP

The lip of the wave is the cresting portion that comes down as the wave breaks. With offshore wind and a decent sized swell, surfers can pull into barrels behind the lip of the wave.

THE CHANNEL

While the channel is not technically part of the wave, it is vital to a surfer’s ability to paddle out. Paddling out can be difficult, especially in large surf. The channel is where all of the incoming surf flows back into the sea. This is the best place to paddle out, as it is often calmer than other parts of the break.

LEARNING MORE ABOUT WAVES

The most effective way to learn about waves, different surf breaks, and varying surf conditions is to surf as much and as often as possible. At Swell Surf Camp, we not only teach our clients to surf in the warm Caribbean Sea, but we provide the ultimate surf experience through stellar lodging, tasty food, and a welcoming community.

For 2020 a new destination is offered by Swell: Swell Bali Surf camp will open in Bingin, a very short walk to some of the best surfing beaches that Bali has to offer, catering for people that have never surfed before to people that want to catch some perfect barrels.

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THE TOP 5 OCEAN ACTIVITIES

Stand up paddle surf

THE TOP 5 OCEAN ACTIVITIES

(WHEN THE WAVES ARE FLAT)

Like it or not, sometimes, there are just no waves to be surfed. On the North Coast of the Dominican republic this is very rare, but 5 to 10 days per year the waves get smaller than knee high. This is something which is naturally disappointing if you have travelled to a particular destination intent on catching some swell, though there are many other exciting and fun ocean activities which you can certainly try if the waves are flat. These will perhaps provide you with an altogether different experience and feel of the ocean than surfing. Nonetheless, they still have the potential to be amazingly fun and increase your overall appreciation of the ocean when the surf is not up.

SUP

Stand-up paddleboarding is something which many surf enthusiasts have likely already tried. If not, then anyone with some decent experience on the board will take to this ocean activity in no time at all. There is something very tranquil and peaceful about SUP. This activity allows you to glide, almost effortlessly across the ocean.

Stand up paddle surf

During this experience, you are bound to experience some moments of peaceful enlightenment. SUP is growing steadily in popularity with many beautiful global destinations keen to offer this for periods during which the waves are calm. It is also relatively easy for a novice surfer to pick up.
As mentioned, it is a great way to improve board confidence which you can then transition into your surfing experiences. Check out the center for surf research for some awesome information on all things sustainable, and some great information on the best paddleboards to suit your style. As with any activity, it takes some learning and practice which is best performed with the right equipment. Once you get the hang of paddleboarding though, it is perfect for those days when the waves are flat, or you just feel like a more relaxing cruise along the coast. Some have even been known to commute via paddleboard.

KAYAKING

Another water-based sport for the times when the ocean is calm, although this can be either relaxing or exhilarating depending on your preference. Naturally, you can have some great experiences kayaking the oceans when the waves are low. There are many different types of kayak suitable for one or two people which are usually highly durable and easy to transport to your destination.
watersport holiday
Besides just paddling around, you could explore some nearby caves, or just admire the views and the stunning ocean from your location.
Kayaking is very easy to pick up for beginners in terms of a learning curve, and you can be out on the ocean in no time at all. The fantastic thing about kayaking is thanks to the safety and security of most kayaks, you can go out in groups and enjoy a really fun day in the ocean.

Why not bring some lunch and aim for a nearby sandbar or beach to explore for the day. All of this will be possible depending upon your location. This is one of the most enjoyable pursuits for many who want a break from surfing but still wish to enjoy the qualities of the ocean from above. Certain forms of kayaking can also provide the thrill which many surfers often seek, although these are most often found in rivers rather than with ocean kayaking. Either way, it presents a great opportunity to view the ocean from the surface in all of its splendour.

SNORKELING

Moving below the surface, snorkelling can be an easily accessible, yet life-transforming experience under the correct conditions when the waves are not on your side for surfing. With just a few easy to acquire pieces of equipment, you can begin exploring what lies beneath that beautiful ocean which you often surf. For many, this can be a truly transformative experience. Seeing the beauty of life, flora, and fauna which is just below our feet can be a powerful moment.

snorkeling sosua
Ultimately, snorkelling is a fun activity which you can also enjoy at your leisure with a partner or younger family members without any fear of injury or accident, and if you are lucky, you may get to capture some picturesque moments along the way. Certain areas are of course more suitable than others. These include areas such as Cebu, the Philippines which is famous for its amazing snorkelling experiences where swimmers can interact with whale sharks up close.

There are many of these types of experiences offered, usually in the deeper waters, but if you are just curious to check out what is beneath the usual surf, this is the ideal activity of choice for you on the next calm ocean day.
Swell offers snorkeling trips to Sosua for our clients, see more information on the adventure day trips we offer

SCUBA DIVING

If you have tried and enjoyed snorkelling but wish to go quite a lot deeper and become fully immersed, then scuba may be the ideal direction for you. Naturally, this is not something which you can decide to do on a whim. It will take a lot of learning and dedication to become an accomplished diver. Even getting started as a beginner can be a daunting task. It is also though, one of the most rewarding experiences which any ocean lover can undertake.

Suba Diving dominican republic
Exploring deep below the surface, you will likely encounter many breathtaking scenes which you simply could not comprehend from above. This gives most of us an entirely new perspective on ocean life, and can greatly enhance our future surfing experiences. From having the ability to view shipwrecks to the most diverse ranges of aquatic life, this is certainly one of the most impressive and energizing experiences you can engage in, and in fact, it goes much further beyond just something to do when the surf is not good. Both activities though can certainly be learned and enjoyed at the same time.
You can also check an interesting article on underwater scooters for scuba diving on Cape Boating

SAILING

If all of the above sound like a lot of hard work to you, you could always decide to take to the ocean in a different form of transport entirely. One activity loss is another’s gain. Sailing is one activity which certainly relies on calm seas, quite the opposite to what would be ideal for surfing. Of course, this is another activity which requires some preparation, you need to have the use of a sailing boat for a start. Once this is the case, however, there is often no better or more exciting way to traverse the open sea, depending on the type of sailboat you are using.

Laser sailing
Sailing can be smooth and relaxing or also hard work. It really depends on who is doing the sailing, however, as a passenger it can provide a fantastic sense of freedom and adventure. There are many stories of solo or tea sailboats travelling the world. This open approach to the ocean provides a sense of escape which is unattainable through an activity such as surfing. With someone else in control, it can also be a relaxing way to experience your surroundings from a more distant and comfortable viewpoint.

CONCLUSION

Of course, under ideal circumstances, the waves will be fantastic and perfect for surfing. As experienced surfers, however, we know that this is not always the case and that unexpected changes in conditions can drastically alter your plans for the day. As we can see from the above ocean activities, though, there is no shortage of other options to pursue when the sea conditions are calm. Whichever other activity you choose to spend your time on will open up your eyes to viewing the ocean in a new light, and will likely also provide the entertainment or relaxation you require.

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STAFF: MEET RICCI AND ALEXANDRA

surf P1000321

At Swell we want to make sure our clients get the best surf experience possible, and the best way to guarantee this is by having top staff work for us. Last year Ricci was at Swell for 3 months, and he left a great impression on the clients and the rest of our staff. Because Ricci had commitements in Europe as a Snowboard instructor & guide in the Alps he had to leave us for a season in the snow.

Ricci Swell Surf Instructor
Ricci Swell Surf Instructor

Ricci was keen to come back to Swell, and we are very keen to have him back. for the full 2018 / 2019 winter season.

Alexandra (Alex) is Ricci’s partner and she is the new surf photographer at Swell taking photos of our clients who are interested in the photo packages she offers. And additional bonus is that Alexandra also takes video footage of the clients during their lessons, so after the lessons are done the footage can be played back to analyze where improvements can be made in the surf technique of the clients.

Alexandra has years of experience as an action and lifestyle photographer, and so far the lifestyle and surf photos she has produced are of great quality.

Here are some sample photos of here first few days in Cabarete

Surfing Encuentro
Morning at Playa Encuentro
Encuentro surf lessons
Encuentro surf lessons
Swell Surfboards
Swell Surfboards
Groups Shots
Groups Shots
Playa Encuentro
Playa Encuentro
Swell visitor
Swell visitor
Playa Encuentro golden morning light
Playa Encuentro golden morning light

As you can see Alexandra is a great photographer, so if you want to have your surf photos taken and a surf video analysis during your stay at Swell, sign up for the photo package and go home with your memories in HD photo format.

OTHER SWELL NEWS

Normally when one surf instructor arrives another instructor leaves, this winter we have deceided to change this, since it’s looking like it’s going to be a very busy winter season for us here in the Caribbean. As a result Lee, our lovely English surf instructor has decided to stay on for the rest of our high season.
So our team for the winter season 2019 is:

    1. Lee (english) – Surf Instructor
    1. Ricci (Italian) – Surf Instructor
    1. Neno (Dominican) – Surf Instructor
    1. Jeffrey (Dominican) – Surf Instructor
    1. Alexandra (French) – Surf photographer

So if you are interested in learning to surf, then have a look at the learn to surf courses we offer at Swell and contact us today to secure your surf holiday.

CARIBBEAN SURF HOLIDAY EXPIRIENCE


About Swell: We provide active holidays for adults in the Caribbean. Ideal for solo travelers and couples who are looking for a fun and social vacation.
See our video below.


We hope to see you soon in the Caribbean
Clare & Jeroen Mutsaars

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