How long does it take to learn to surf when starting at 40?

Learning to surf varies for everyone. It depends on factors like your fitness level, how often you practice, and whether you take lessons. Some people get the basics in a few weeks, while others may take months. Learning to surf at 40 might require a bit more patience, but the journey is worth it.

Can I learn to surf without taking lessons if I'm starting at 40?

Yes, you can, but taking surf lessons can speed up your learning and make it safer, especially for those learning to surf at 40 . Instructors can teach you proper techniques and help you avoid common mistakes.

What should I focus on when learning to surf at 40?

Focus on building your fitness, especially your stamina and strength. It's also helpful to take lessons from instructors experienced with teaching adults who are learning to surf at 40 .

Is 70 too old to start surfing?

No, 70 is not too old. There are inspiring stories of people who started surfing in their 70s and even 80s(We recently had an 81 year young client on ou learn to surf course, and our surf instructors managed to get him catching his own waves and up and riding at the end of the course) . If learning to surf at 40 seems challenging, remember that many have started much later with great success. The key is to listen to your body and go at your own pace.

Will younger surfers judge me for learning to surf at 40?

Most surfers are friendly and supportive. Everyone once was a beginner, and the surfing community respects anyone willing to learn, regardless of whether you're learning to surf at 40 , 50, or beyond.

Do I need special surfing gear if I'm learning to surf at 40?

Not necessarily, but having the right gear can make a big difference. Choose a board that's right for beginners and a wetsuit that fits well. Accessories like booties and gloves can add comfort if you live in a colder climate for surfing.

What if I have a fear of the ocean when learning to surf at 40?

It's normal to have fears, but you can overcome them by starting slow. Spend time in the water, get comfortable with swimming, and consider taking lessons to build your confidence. Many who are learning to surf at 40 share this concern, and instructors are experienced in helping you overcome it.

Is it too late to start surfing at 50?

No, it's not too late. Many people start surfing in their 50s and even later. As long as you have a reasonable level of fitness and flexibility, you can learn to surf at any age. Learning to surf at 40 prepares you well for continuing into your 50s.

Why choose Swell over other surf camps?

Because you’re not into dorm-style chaos or cheesy party vibes. Swell was built with comfort in mind—boutique lodging, cozy communal spaces, ensuite rooms with AC and crisp cotton sheets, structured surf lessons, legendary breakfasts, and a social yet chill environment. Founded in 2009, it's the world’s first luxury surf camp designed by surfers for adults.

September 18, 2025December 6, 2025

LEARNING TO SURF AFTER 40

LEARNING TO SURF AT 40: A COMPLETE GUIDE

IS IT EVER TOO LATE TO START SURFING?

The journey of learning to surf at 40 is not only possible but can be incredibly rewarding. This guide could easily be titled ‘learning to surf after 50, 60 and upward’ because age is truly just a number when it comes to catching your first wave.

EMBRACING THE WAVES: LEARNING TO SURF AT 40

“Surfing? But you’re over 40!” – even if nobody actually says this, it’s something that plagues the mind when looking at activities typically associated with younger crowds. If you think surfing is only suitable for young, athletic types, think again because learning to surf at 40 is becoming increasingly common.

We firmly believe you should be able to start your surfing journey at any age if it’s what you really want to do. Who cares about the number tied to your name? If you feel as though you can do it, why not give it a go? Even if you aren’t quite as flexible as you were many years ago, this shouldn’t ever stop you from enjoying the ocean and reaping the many health benefits learning to surf at 40 can bring.

Today, we want to provide anyone interested with an introduction to surfing and why learning to surf at 40 can be the perfect time to start. As a sport with no physical contact, unlike football and rugby, it’s suited towards those who want to prevent impact injuries. It’s important to be in decent physical shape when learning to surf, as it is a physically demanding activity. Moreover, you can enjoy plenty of health benefits while getting to know new people.

There’s something special about surfing’s impact on the brain. When learning to surf at an older age, you’ll be physically active and your mind will also get a workout as you try to navigate the waves that seem determined to knock you over.

Is there a perfect age to start surfing? Absolutely not! You’re never too old to catch your first wave. Many people believe that surfing is only for the young, but that’s just a myth. Whether you’re in your 40s, 50s, or even 70s, the ocean welcomes everyone.

Age is just a number when it comes to surfing. What truly matters is your passion and willingness to learn.

Here are some reasons why learning to surf at 40 is an excellent decision:

Surfing keeps you in shape and boosts your mood
It’s a fantastic way to challenge yourself and feel younger
You get to meet new people and join a vibrant community

THE JOURNEY OF LEARNING TO SURF AT 40

Of course, we wouldn’t be talking about surfing at all if it wasn’t fun and this is something else to consider. Sure, you might get knocked over once or twice but it’s all in the name of fun (right?).

PHYSICAL BENEFITS OF LEARNING TO SURF AT 40 AND BEYOND

Ever woken up on a Sunday morning and tried to find things to do to avoid the gym? Even washing and ironing are better options for some. If so, you aren’t alone because continually doing the same things in the gym can get rather boring. Thankfully, learning to surf at 40 still offers a cardiovascular workout but every single session will be a thrill and it’ll be different from the last. Also, you’ll get a sense of achievement as your skill increases.

With this in mind, let’s take a look at some of the physical benefits of learning to surf at 40:

SHOULDER/BACK STRENGTH

We’re going to start with one that perhaps isn’t so obvious, and it’s the improvement you’ll see to your back and shoulder strength. If you ask several retirees the most annoying thing about getting older, many will tell you about their back and shoulder problems. Unfortunately, this can have a huge impact on even everyday tasks such as putting the washing out on the line or trying to sit comfortably to read a book.

When learning to surf at 40, your arms will always be in use as you attempt to balance, paddle, and the inevitable climbing back onto the board (unless you’re an instant pro!). Even when sitting or lying on the board, you’ll be rotating your arms and the shoulder joint will get a good workout. As your arms go through their full range of motion, this is great news for the shoulders, elbows, and even the spine.

For many, they enjoy increased mobility in their upper body and it generally fights off the stiffness that comes with age. Let’s face it, we’ve all made those grunting noises while attempting to stand up after a long time sitting (we won’t tell anyone!).

CARDIO WORKOUT

Not only is heart disease the leading cause of death in the UK, according to the government website, it causes nearly twice as many deaths as dementia; dementia is the second leading cause of death. While deaths from heart disease and stroke have certainly decreased in recent years, it’s still too high for our liking and learning to surf at 40 is the perfect opportunity to stay active and reduce your chances of struggling with this health issue. Regardless of which form of surfing you choose (duck diving, paddling, or standing), you’ll be moving constantly and this level of activity can only be beneficial for your health.

As your heart rate increases and the different muscles receive blood and oxygen, your cardiovascular system welcomes the activity and this offers various benefits in everyday life. For example, you won’t have any trouble breathing and strenuous activity becomes much easier. Suddenly, you’ll have the energy to take the stairs at work rather than the lift (unless you’re on the 33rd floor, of course!).

INCREASED FLEXIBILITY THROUGH SURFING

Before we move onto the psychological benefits of learning to surf at 40, we want to talk about flexibility because certain parts of your body will always be stretching and twisting while on the board. Suddenly, muscles and joints you didn’t even know existed will be activated and we mustn’t forget the range of motion your joints will experience as the sheer power of the waves hit the board. With all this stretching, it’ll be like a more dramatic form of yoga and you should experience fewer aches and pains in life.

CORE AND LEG STRENGTH IMPROVEMENT FROM SURFING

Something that often goes forgotten with learning to surf at 40 is the work it does with your core; all that effort to stay balanced keeps the core engaged and this is something you’ll certainly feel the morning after your first session. Just as we saw in the cardiovascular section, this is something you might not notice but will improve your life. Whether you’re lifting boxes, standing after long periods of sitting down or using the upper torso in any way, you’re going to see a boost after surfing.

For those who work in an office and stare at a computer all day, learning to surf at 40 can also help with your posture; you might find yourself slouching less while at the desk. In truth, surfing reflects many of the normal movements we put our bodies through on a daily basis (although it might not seem like it at first).

For example, after first paddling out to a wave, you’ll need to activate the muscles in the legs and core to jump to your feet. In every single lesson, you’ll jump to your feet several times. If you can do it on a surfboard in the sea, you can do it getting out of bed or getting off the sofa with ease. Over time, the difference in your leg and core strength will be noticeable and this is another great benefit of learning to surf at 40 (they’re starting to add up, right?).

PSYCHOLOGICAL BENEFITS OF LEARNING TO SURF AT 40 AND BEYOND

Hopefully, we’ve been able to persuade you to book that first surfing lesson on the physical benefits alone. If not, how about we tell you of the brilliant mental benefits of learning to surf at 40?

COORDINATION AND CONCENTRATION

Without both coordination and concentration, you won’t be able to stand up on the board for longer than five seconds. These will both be improved over time. Of course, these are two transferable skills so there’s no reason why your coordination and concentration don’t also improve at home, at work, and while playing any other sports. For example, you might notice that you’re able to sit at a desk for a longer period or be more successful in your local pool league.

LEARNING TO SURF AT 40 GIVES A BOOST TO YOUR MENTAL HEALTH

Firstly, all exercise has now been scientifically proven to release endorphins (chemicals in the brain) which improve mood and overall wellbeing. For those who suffer from depression and/or anxiety, many doctors are now starting to recommend exercise for this very reason. This, coupled with the fact you’ll be outside breathing in the fresh sea air, may allow you to adopt a new positive mindset in life.

DETERMINATION, PERSEVERANCE, AND GRATIFICATION

We must provide a warning at this stage because learning to surf at 40 will require patience, it will require perseverance, and a significant percentage of people stop attending after just one lesson.

However, we urge you to fight through the learning stage. Yes, you might find yourself getting frustrated and you might wonder where the fun starts for a while. But, as you improve, and overcome the mental barrier that stops many, you’ll have one of the most gratifying experiences of your life.

Eventually, all your hard work will pay off and you won’t believe that you nearly gave it all up. From struggling to jump to your feet to being able to stand up confidently for extended periods, you can prove to yourself that all goals in life are achievable. Even when the goal seemed impossible just a short while ago, the hard work and time you invest will always be rewarded.

Soon enough, you’ll enjoy all the physical and psychological benefits of learning to surf at 40 that we’ve discussed and you may even be able to bring friends and family along to watch you shine. As we’ve seen before, these are transferable skills because you’ll be more likely to take this determination and perseverance into your personal life and career.

RELIEF FROM STRESS

Finally, you don’t have to become a master of surfing to enjoy the stress relief it can offer. If you want to push your body to its limit and really test yourself, this is possible. If you want to have a relaxing pastime and enjoy being in the water, this is equally fine. While some choose to navigate every wave and they feel disappointed after a poor lesson, others are just happy to be out in the water sitting on the board and looking out over the stunning horizon.

When it comes to learning to surf at 40, the surfboard and the water are the two essentials. From here, you can do whatever makes you happy. Soon enough, you’ll be wondering where all that stress from work has gone and this for us makes for a successful hobby.

MEET NEW PEOPLE

As we get older, often we seem to get stuck in our ‘social circle’ it’s hard to meet new people. Learning to surf at 40 is a great way to expand your social circle.

Instead of networking events or awkward small talk at the office, you suddenly have a built-in icebreaker: “How was that last wave?” Everyone out there is dealing with the same wipeouts, nerves, and little victories, so conversations feel easy and natural. You’ll meet people from different countries, career,s and backgrounds who are there for exactly the same reason you are: to learn, have fun, and reset from everyday life.

In a surf camp setting like Swell, this social side is amplified. Most guests are in their 30s to 50s, many travel solo, and by day two it usually feels more like a group of friends than a bunch of strangers sharing a holiday. Breakfast chats turn into shared surf sessions, yoga classe,s and dinners in town. A lot of our clients stay in touch, plan future surf trips together, or visit each other back home.

If you’ve been feeling like your social life has gone a bit stale, learning to surf at 40 gives you an easy way back into meeting new, like-minded people – without the forced “networking” vibe. Show up, paddle out, be willing to laugh at yourself, and the rest tends to take care of itself.

START LEARNING TO SURF AT 40 TODAY!

As well as the physical and psychological benefits of learning to surf at 40 and the way it allows for a healthy lifestyle, you can also meet new people and forget about the stresses of life for a couple of hours. To finish our guide, we want to provide a few considerations before booking your first surf lesson!

Your height and weight aren’t important because there are various shapes and sizes of boards.

Don’t worry about your fitness levels right now because your stamina will improve over time.
Surfboards can even be custom-made, if necessary.
You should NEVER feel as though you’re too old to start learning to surf at 40.
The average age of guests coming to Swell is 39!

Don’t live life according to other people’s expectations or rules, make your own rules (perhaps not on the road, but you get the idea!). If you feel you’ll enjoy surfing and you like the sound of the many benefits we’ve discussed here today, we have three words for you; GO FOR IT!

HOW ABOUT WINGFOILING?

Another sport we offer here at Swell is Wingfoiling. The video below shows that age should not hold you back.

QUESTIONS

No results!

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO LEARN TO SURF WHEN STARTING AT 40?

Learning to surf varies for everyone. It depends on factors like your fitness level, how often you practice, and whether you take lessons. Some people get the basics in a few weeks, while others may take months. Learning to surf at 40 might require a bit more patience, but the journey is worth it.
CAN I LEARN TO SURF WITHOUT TAKING LESSONS IF I'M STARTING AT 40?

Yes, you can, but taking surf lessons can speed up your learning and make it safer, especially for those learning to surf at 40. Instructors can teach you proper techniques and help you avoid common mistakes.
WHAT SHOULD I FOCUS ON WHEN LEARNING TO SURF AT 40?

Focus on building your fitness, especially your stamina and strength. It's also helpful to take lessons from instructors experienced with teaching adults who are learning to surf at 40.
IS 70 TOO OLD TO START SURFING?

No, 70 is not too old. There are inspiring stories of people who started surfing in their 70s and even 80s(We recently had an 81 year young client on ou learn to surf course, and our surf instructors managed to get him catching his own waves and up and riding at the end of the course) . If learning to surf at 40 seems challenging, remember that many have started much later with great success. The key is to listen to your body and go at your own pace.
WILL YOUNGER SURFERS JUDGE ME FOR LEARNING TO SURF AT 40?

Most surfers are friendly and supportive. Everyone once was a beginner, and the surfing community respects anyone willing to learn, regardless of whether you're learning to surf at 40, 50, or beyond.
DO I NEED SPECIAL SURFING GEAR IF I'M LEARNING TO SURF AT 40?

Not necessarily, but having the right gear can make a big difference. Choose a board that's right for beginners and a wetsuit that fits well. Accessories like booties and gloves can add comfort if you live in a colder climate for surfing.
WHAT IF I HAVE A FEAR OF THE OCEAN WHEN LEARNING TO SURF AT 40?

It's normal to have fears, but you can overcome them by starting slow. Spend time in the water, get comfortable with swimming, and consider taking lessons to build your confidence. Many who are learning to surf at 40 share this concern, and instructors are experienced in helping you overcome it.
IS IT TOO LATE TO START SURFING AT 50?

No, it's not too late. Many people start surfing in their 50s and even later. As long as you have a reasonable level of fitness and flexibility, you can learn to surf at any age. Learning to surf at 40 prepares you well for continuing into your 50s.
WHY CHOOSE SWELL OVER OTHER SURF CAMPS?

Because you’re not into dorm-style chaos or cheesy party vibes. Swell was built with comfort in mind—boutique lodging, cozy communal spaces, ensuite rooms with AC and crisp cotton sheets, structured surf lessons, legendary breakfasts, and a social yet chill environment. Founded in 2009, it's the world’s first luxury surf camp designed by surfers for adults.

ABOUT SWELL

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught thousands of people the basics of surfing, including many who were learning to surf at 40 and beyond.

Age? Well the average age of a Swell client is 39, making us perfect for those learning to surf at 40.

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding…regardless of your age!

Our luxury surf coaching holidays have taught thousands of people the sport of surfing in a safe, fun and quick way, including many who were learning to surf at 40 and beyond.

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August 28, 2025October 7, 2025

THE 6 BEST SURF CAMPS FOR BEGINNERS

In this article “6 best surf camps for beginners destinations” we are going to explore some of the world’s best surf destinations for beginners.

Before we started Swell Surf Camp in the Caribbean in 2009 we operated a surf travel agency and that gave us the chance to visit over 25+ surf destinations to see what the surf conditions were like, so we had a pretty good idea of the different surfing conditions in the various surf destinations listed below.

But first, we need to have a look at what makes a good or best surf destination.

There is no such thing as one destination that ticks all the boxes. For one, someone who is in the early stages of their surf career is looking for a very different type of wave than a seasoned pro.

In this article, we focus on a region that has ideal learn-to-surf conditions for complete beginners.
We could have included more countries and regions on the list, but we have focused on what we consider the best surf camp destinations.

How To Choose The Best Beginner Surf Camp

Evaluating Surf Camp Locations

Picking the right spot for your surf camp is key. You’ll want to check out wave conditions and how they change with the seasons.

Consider wave conditions and seasonality

Choosing the right surf camp for beginners means looking at the waves and when they’re best. Some places have great waves in summer, while others are better in winter. You want to go when the waves are just right for learning – not too big, but not too small either.

I learned this the hard way during my first surf camp trip. The waves were huge, and it was tough as a beginner. So, check out when is the peak season for those friendly beginner waves.

“Catching your first wave feels incredible, but timing is everything.”

Seasons change and so do wave conditions. This influences your surfing a lot. If you pick a camp during its off-season, you might find yourself waiting on the beach instead of riding waves.

It’s all about finding that sweet spot – good weather plus perfect beginner waves equals an awesome surf experience!

Assessing Instruction Quality

Assessing instruction quality is key—make sure the surf camp has great teachers with real certifications and small classes to help you learn better. Ready to ride the waves? Keep reading for more tips on picking your perfect surf adventure!

Look for certified instructors and small class sizes

Picking the right surf camp means finding good teachers. You want instructors who know their stuff and don’t have too many students at once. Here’s how to do it:

Check if instructors are certified. This means they have training to teach surfing well.
Make sure there are not too many students for one teacher. A small group means you get more help.
Look for camps where teachers have first aid skills. Surfing can lead to bumps and bruises, so this is important.
Ask about class sizes before you sign up. The fewer students per class, the better.
Read what other people say online about the teachers and their style of teaching.
Find a surf camp that matches your level of surfing. If you’re just starting, make sure the camp is for beginners.

Next, let’s talk about where these surf camps are located and why it matters a lot for beginners like yourself!

This means you get more help learning to ride those waves. Also, think about where it is and what kind of place you’ll stay in. You want it to be fun and comfy, right? Don’t forget to read what other surfers say online – their reviews can tell you a lot! Finally, look at the gear they give you and how they plan your days of surfing lessons.

BEST SURF CAMPS FOR BEGINNERS

EXPERIENCE LEVEL:

BETWEEN 0 AND 5 SURF SESSIONS.

BEST SURF CAMP DESTINATIONS FOR BEGINNERS LEARNING TO SURF

Dominican Republic
Costa Rica
Portugal
Bali
England
Australia

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

WHERE IS IT LOCATED: Largest island In the Caribbean, the North coast faces the Atlantic, and the south coast faces the Caribbean.

GETTING THERE: Short direct flight from Miami or 3-hour flight from New York and Toronto. Charter flights from Europe

FOCUS SURF REGION: The north coast, 20 minutes from Puerto Plata International Airport.

LEARN TO SURF IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

What makes it a great surf destination for beginners:
We are biased since this is where we opened Swell in 2009, but we did so for a reason: we wanted a place where we can teach people to surf in a safe way. Playa Encuentro is the ideal spot, it has 350 surfable days in the year, with mellow reform waves on the inside breaking over a flat reef, deep enough to stand in the water (around chest high), easy access to the beach, no dangerous current or sea life. We have taught 5000+ guests over 10 years the sport of surfing.
There is no dangerous sea life present, nor are there dangerous rips or currents present. All this makes it one of the best places for a learn-to-surf camp for beginners.

BEST TIME TO GO: Any time of the year

More info: See this website

PROS

Pretty white sand beaches, lined with palm trees.
Friendly Caribbean vibes, in and out of the water.
Budget-friendly
Year-round surf destination
Lots of alternative activities and sports
No need to rent a car
Close to an international airport
Warm tropical climate and water

VIDEO OF THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

More info about the beginner surf camps Swell offers here >>

SURFING COSTA RICA

Where is it located: In the middle of Central America. 2 coastlines, the West coast faces the Pacific, and the east coast faces the Caribbean

Focus surf region: Pacific region of Guanacaste

What makes Costa Rica a great surf destination for beginners:
We have spent a lot of time in Costa Rica between 2014 and 2017. The waves in Nosara and Tamarindo offer a great playground for people new to the sport of surfing, and there are plenty of surf schools and surf camps in this area of Costa Rica.
Mostly sand bottom beach breaks make learning to surf in Costa Rica safe.

Best time to go: Smaller waves between November and March

PROS

Safe country to visit in Central America
Plenty of surf camps and surf schools to choose from
Pretty beaches and wildlife

CONS

The most expensive country to visit in the region, expect North American prices
Domestic travel from San Jose international airport takes time and money
Busy in the surf

BALI, INDONESIA

Where is it located: Southeast Asia, northwest of Australia, Indonesia consists of 17,500 islands, of which Bali is one of them.

Focus surf region: West coast of Bali, between Seminyak in the north to Uluwatu in the south

What makes Bali one of the best surf camp destinations for beginners:
Having lived in Bali for 6 years, we the owners of Swell, decided to open a Bali surf camp in 2020. We quickly realized that after Corona and Bali re-opening in 2022, that the surfing beaches have now gotten too crowded for us to teach our students the sport of surfing in a safe and fun way, we closed the doors on our Bali Surf Camp in 2023

Best time to go: Any time of the year.

PROS

Close to Denpasar international airport
Budget-friendly
Great Balinese culture
Warm tropical climate and water

CONS

Kuta region traffic can be a nightmare
Very busy surfing beaches in the Kuta and Uluwatu area
Unregulated surf instructors and surf schools make for dangerous learning for beginning surfers
Air travel from Europe and North America is lengthy, although once landed at Bali it is a short trip to the surf beaches.

PORTUGAL

Where is it located: Southwest corner of Europe, bordering Spain to the east.

Focus surf region: South Western tip of the Algarve and Alentejo

What makes Portugal one of the best surf destinations for beginners:
A mild climate makes Portugal a great place to visit for about 9 months of the year where the outside air temperature is 20° Celcius (69° Fahrenheit). Lots of open beach breaks mean there are not many days where the surf is too small to learn surfing.
A large variety of surf camps in schools cater for people between 18 and 24 years old.

Most teaching is done by qualified surf instructors

More info: coming soon

PROS

Lots of budget hostel-style surf camps in Portugal to choose from
European culture

CONS

For most of the year, you have to wear a full wetsuit since the water is chilly
In the summer months of July and August, the beaches get very crowded

CORNWALL, ENGLAND

Where is it located: SW tip of England.

Focus surf region: Cornwall

What makes Cornwall a great place for learning to surf
Cornwall has some of the most stunning beaches and coves in England ( and even Europe). Being well exposed to the Atlantic Ocean means that Cornwall gets plenty of waves. White sandy beaches make it a great place for your first surf lessons.

One of the surf school companies that we can highly recommend is Cornish Wave. Owned and operated by Jorrin, who also worked at Swell for a winter.

Highly professional, knowledgeable and friendly!

PROS

Stunning scenery
Sandy beaches
Friendly locals

CONS

Expensive destination
Busy in the European summer months

Video of Cornwall

AUSTRALIA, BYRON BAY

Where is it located: Easter tip of Australia

Focus surf region: North coast of NSW

What makes Byron Bay a great place for learning to surf?

Byron Bay has stunning white sandy beaches with a large variety of different surf breaks. There are a good amount of different surf schools to choose from. And if you are between 20 and 30 years old there’s a variety of different hostels/backpackers to choose from. If you want private accommodation, there are some very good hotels.

PROS

Sandy beaches
variety of different surf spots
Great beach culture

CONS

Busy year round
has gotten very expensive in recent years

We hope you enjoyed our “Best Surf Camp For Beginners” list. Next month we are focussing on surf camp destinations for intermediate and advanced surfers.

If you have any questions about this article and want to join us in the Dominican Republic for a unique surf holiday: do send us a message!

ABOUT SWELL SURF CAMP

We started Swell Surf Camp in 2009 with a simple vision: to provide unforgettable luxury surf camp holidays in the Caribbean . Our founders are passionate about watersports like surfing, windsurfing, kitesurfing ,and in recent years foiling

Over the years, we’ve achieved significant milestones. We taught over 9000 guests the sport of surfing; in a fun, safe and quick manner. We introduced eco-friendly practices in 2015, which resulted in a 30% decrease in our carbon footprint. Our efforts were recognized when we received the “Best Luxury Surf Camp” award from Surf USA Magazine in 2018.

Our core offerings are focused on high-quality surfing experiences combined with luxurious accommodations and personalized coaching. Each guest receives tailored guidance based on their skills, ensuring they make the most out of their stay.

At Swell Surf Camp we are committed to providing top-tier surfing experiences, for surfers of all levels, ages and backgrounds .

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August 3, 2025October 6, 2025

WHAT LEVEL OF SURFER AM I

WHAT LEVEL OF SURFER AM I?

The question of ‘what level of surfer am I?’ inevitably crops up when you are selecting where to travel, and when to travel to a surf destination (tip; if it doesn’t occur to you, it should). After all, most surf destinations/countries have different surf seasons which may suit different surfing abilities.

If they don’t actually have different seasons, then at least there will be different surf breaks and or tides to consider and match up to your own surfing ability.

What Level Of Surfer Am I?

Surfing is an exciting sport that takes skill, practice, and a good understanding of your abilities. Knowing your “Level Of Surfer” is key to improving and staying safe in the water.

Surfing levels range from Beginner to Pro, each with its own set of skills and challenges. Swell Bali and Swell Surf Camp are great places for surfers of all levels to learn quickly and safely.

Elements like time spent surfing, the kind of board you use, and wave conditions affect how fast you progress. It’s important to know your real level so you don’t get hurt or stuck at the same skill level because you thought you were better than you are.

With seven different categories – Beginner, Novice, Progressive, Intermediate, Advanced, Expert, and Pro – there’s a lot to discover about where you fit in the surfing world. Finding out can help keep everyone safe on their journey to becoming a better surfer.

Ready to find out more? Keep reading!

Key Takeaways

Knowing your surf level is crucial for safety and improvement. It helps you choose the right waves and equipment.
Surfing myths, like thinking you’re better than you are, can be dangerous. Always accurately assess your skills to avoid risks.
There are different surfing skill levels from beginner to pro. Each level has specific skills, goals, and suitable wave sizes.
Continuous learning and setting realistic goals are key to progressing in surfing. Even pros work hard to polish their abilities.
Interactive tools and expert coaching can help surfers identify their current level and plan how to improve their skills efficiently.

DON’T OVERESTIMATE YOUR SKILLSET

In our experience, most often a student will class themselves as an ‘intermediate’ surfer when they have had a few surf lessons before, but it’s actually not that straightforward. Overestimating your skillset as a surfer will almost inevitably lead to problems/frustration at the very least, and when the ocean is involved there’s an obvious element of danger too. We really want to avoid giving any student a frightening surf experience which could end up putting them off surfing for life.

So for us, there are many things which help define what level of surfing you are at. For example, you might have only been surfing a short time (perhaps a few months), but have been lucky enough to get loads of water time, plus the right surfboard and good surf conditions, in which case your progression could have been quite rapid.

But perhaps like many novice surfers we encounter, they’ve already been trying to surf for a while, but just haven’t managed to make any big ‘leaps’ forward.

This could be for any number of reasons. Some examples would be; regularly visiting a surf break which doesn’t enjoy good waves, and/or going out on a board which is too small, and/or choosing to surf in the wrong conditions (which don’t suit your ability), and/or not being very skilled at wave selection and/or (hopefully not) poor surf instruction initially which might have led to you developing some bad habits.

As a result of all these factors, it’s clearly not reliable to accurately define our level of surfing ability just by considering the length of time you’ve been surfing or the number of surf lessons you have taken.

Instead, we can gauge with far more accuracy what level of surfer you really are by actually assessing the skills you have managed to master so far in the water.

What do we mean by that?

In our many years of experience giving surf lessons at many different levels, we usually find surfers classing themselves in one of the 4 following categories; Beginner, Intermediate, Expert or Pro.

But we don’t agree with only using 4 categories as it takes an awful lot of water time and good conditions to progress from Beginner to Intermediate: It is widely accepted that an Intermediate surfer already possesses a lot of surfing skills.

WHY KNOWING YOUR SURFING LEVEL MATTERS

Understanding your surfing proficiency is vital for your development and security on the waves. Overrating your skills may place you in perilous situations where dissatisfaction grows and risks escalate.

A transparent realization of your competency ensures you undertake tasks compatible with your skills, making surfing both secure and pleasurable.

ELEMENTS INFLUENCING SURF CONDITIONS

Local tides play a key role in shaping surf conditions. They affect how waves break at different beaches, making some spots ideal for surfing at high tide and others better at low tide.

Wave formations also greatly influence your surf experience. Whether the waves are tall and fast or small and slow can change not just day to day, but hour by hour.

Your time spent in the water is crucial for improving your level of surfing. The more you surf, the better you’ll understand these changing conditions. Equipment used is another important factor.

Using the right board for your skill level and the current conditions can make a big difference in catching waves successfully.

COMMON SURFING MYTHS

Many surfers think they’re better than they are, which can be dangerous. It’s easy to overjudge your skills and face risks on the water.

THE RISK OF OVERESTIMATING SKILLS

Overestimating skills in surfing can lead to injuries or scary experiences. It’s crucial to assess your abilities accurately for safety and improvement on the water. Surfing above your skill level without proper judgment can result in facing waves you’re not ready for, risking harm both to yourself and others around you.

Knowing where you stand helps keep everyone safe in the surf zone. Surfers who overestimate their prowess might ignore warning signs of dangerous conditions, pushing beyond limits safely managed by their real capabilities.

This mistake emphasizes why an honest evaluation of one’s surfing level is key before paddling out.

HAZARDS LINKED TO MISJUDGING YOUR ABILITIES

Misjudging your surfing capabilities can lead to serious problems in the water. You might confront waves that are excessively large or intense for your current skill level. This risk doesn’t only place you in danger of getting hurt, but it can also put other surfers nearby in harm’s way.

Surf instructors commonly encourage learners to extend slightly beyond their comfort areas. This strategy aids in advancement, but going far past this limit significantly raises the possibility of mishaps.

Opting incorrect wave sizes and styles for your abilities hampers progression. Visualize you feel set for advanced barrel waves when elementary maneuvers still present complications; it’s akin to bypassing rungs on a staircase.

Each mistaken step could imply missing necessary proficiency required to manage demanding conditions securely and methodically.

7 CATEGORIES

For us at Swell, we feel there should actually be 7 stages of surfing. We find it really useful with our surf lessons or surf guiding to very accurately assess someone’s surf skills by using these 7 categories, clearly stating the skills mastered within each stage.

OUR 7 LEVEL OF SURFER LEVELS ARE:

1. BEGINNER
2. NOVICE
3. PROGRESSIVE
4. INTERMEDIATE
5. ADVANCED
6. EXPERT
7. PRO.

Experts and Pros don’t need our help of course, but we do find the subtle changes and skill sets required, especially to get from the Beginner to the Intermediate stage, are worthy of being defined and given their own name as there are so many nuances to take into account with a surfer’s development, especially in the early stages. Let’s talk about those stages and what they mean to us.

SURFER LEVEL COMPARION TABLE

Skill Level	Paddling Skills	Wave Size Comfort	Takeoff Skills	Turns & Maneuvers	Typical Mistakes
Beginner	Struggles with balance and board control	Whitewater <1ft	Mostly foam-board practice, knees first	None	Looking down, poor pop-up, bad stance
Novice	Can paddle short distances, low efficiency	Small green waves (1ft)	Inconsistent pop-ups, late takeoffs	Occasional trimming	Wrong wave angle, hesitant commitment
Progressive	Improving paddling strength & positioning	1–2ft green waves	More reliable pop-ups, starting to angle	Trimming, beginning turns	Shoulder chasing, lack of compression
Intermediate	Strong paddle control, better positioning	2–3ft waves	Confident angled takeoffs	Bottom turns, soft cutbacks	Stiff style, poor timing
Advanced	Efficient, anticipates sets, great duck diving	3–5ft waves	Explosive takeoffs, steep drops	Top turns, floaters, cutbacks	Over-surfing, poor priority awareness
Expert	Reads ocean easily, highly efficient paddler	5–8ft waves	Late drops, deep positioning	Vertical re-entries, combos	Pushing limits too far, inconsistent landings
Pro	Elite conditioning, unmatched positioning	8ft+ heavy surf	Any takeoff, any conditions	Aerials, barrels, full repertoire	Risk-taking, equipment limitations

SO….WHAT LEVEL OF SURFER ARE YOU?

BEGINNER SURFER

A beginner is exactly that, someone who is just beginning surfing, new to the sport, with no previous surf lessons or surf experience. You will have no idea at all about any aspect of surfing and need complete surf instruction right from the very basics (no shame in that by the way). We love complete beginners at Swell and always give our beginners some exercises they can begin at home to prepare for the rigours of paddling especially, plus tips on how to pop up so that by the time they arrive for their surf holiday/vacation they have a bit of a head start.

You will be needing to learn:

The names of the various parts of the surfboard
Aspects of water safety
Whether you have a ‘goofy’ stance or a ‘regular’ stance
How to lie on the board
How to sit on the surfboard in the water
How to paddle
How to pop-up
How it feels to catch a wave and be ‘propelled’
How to stand up once you have caught a wave
How to improve your stance for balance as the wave carries you
Basic theory about how waves are formed
How to identify a good wave to catch
When to start paddling for the wave

Recommended board for a beginner, adult, average weight :

9’0” long Soft top surfboard with lots of volume

Ideal wave height:

1′ to 3′ (half a meter to 1 meter) white water / broken waves.

NOVICE

The NOVICE stage applies to you if you have taken some surf lessons before or even visited one or two surf camps in the past and have already mastered the skills listed above. You should also be able to;

Paddle into white water waves or even small green waves unaided (i.e. not being pushed into the wave by someone else)
Able to pop-up on the surfboard and ride for a few meters without falling
Paddle yourself back into position ready for the next wave

You will be aiming to do the following:

Start to read and select waves (learning which ones to leave and which to paddle for)
Improve your stance on the surfboard to get ready for;
trimming (turning slightly) the surfboard to start to ride ‘down the line’ instead of only going in a straight line
Learn about surf etiquette

Recommended board for a novice surfer, adult, average weight :

8’0 to 9’0” Soft or hard top top surfboard

Ideal wave height:

2′ to 4′ (half a meter to 1.2meters) white water / broken waves.

PROGRESSIVE

The progressive stage applies to you if you have already mastered the skills of the BEGINNER AND NOVICE surfer levels above and are now out of the whitewater (i.e. you are now able to ride shoulder/head-high green, unbroken waves). To recap, we would refer to you as a progressive surfer if you can already do the following:

Paddle easily out to a break
Understand and able to follow priority/surf etiquette in the line-up
Read waves and make correct decisions whether or not to take one or not
Paddle unaided into chest/head-high waves
Pop up quickly with ease
Have a good stance on the surfboard
Speed up the surfboard on the wave to enable gentle turning:
Able to surf a ‘wavy-line’ along the face of a wave, keeping ahead of the whitewater when a wave is not closing out
Paddle back out to the line up unaided after taking your wave

As a progressive surfer, you will be aiming to achieve the following:

Learn how to make a more drastic top turn and bottom turns
Taking steeper drops (paddling into larger waves)

Recommended board for a progressive surfer, adult, average weight :

7’0 to 8’0” Hard top surfboard

Ideal wave height:

2′ to 4′ (half a meter to 1.2meters) unbroken waves.

INTERMEDIATE

An intermediate surfer will have mastered all the skills above; to briefly recap you are an INTERMEDIATE surfer if you can already do the following:

Paddle into overhead or larger waves
Keep your speed up on a wave to stay ahead of the white water
Make more drastic top turns and a bottom turns

As an intermediate surfer, you will probably be aiming to achieve the following:

Learn how to do ‘cutbacks’ (a sharp turn back into the steep part of the wave to make more of a wave’s face)
Begin to ‘stall’ yourself on the wave to try to get ‘barrelled’
Start learning how to climb on top of the wave’s lip, referred to as a ‘floater’
Learn how to come ‘off the lip’ sharply and back into the wave

Recommended board for a progressive surfer, adult, average weight :

6’8″ to 7’8” Hard top surfboard

Ideal wave height:

3′ to 5′ (1 meter to 1.6meters) unbroken waves.

ADVANCED SURFER LEVEL

A surfer who is at an advanced stage is already able to do the following:

Has an excellent wave selection
Can make controlled high-speed bottom and top turns
Can round-house cutback into the steep part of the wave
Can get barrelled in medium-height waves
Can easily manage a larger, wider bottom turn to rush ahead of a close-out section and re-enter an unbroken part of the wave
Can make off-the-lip manoeuvres
Floaters

Recommended board for an advanced surfer, adult, average weight :

6’0″ to 6’8” Hard top surfboard

Ideal wave height:

4′ to 7′ (1.2 meters to 2 meters) unbroken waves.

EXPERT and PRO LEVELS

Expert surfers, and of course Pro surfers, don’t need to have an explanation of what they can achieve on a wave as they have inevitably mastered all the techniques described above + a lot more. 360’s, aerials and being barrelled in huge waves are usually all in their repertoire.

This article is aimed more at explaining the difference between the first 5 stages of surfing so that as a surfer with less experience, you can let surf camps or surf hotels like us correctly judge where we should be advising you to surf, what type of surf lesson you might need, or whether you are better off just going out with a surf guide.

Recommended board for an advanced surfer, adult, average weight :

5’5″ to 6’5” Hard top surfboard

Ideal wave height:

5′ and up

DON’T RUSH, SURFING TAKES TIME

It’s a really terrible idea to overstate your surf experience; not least because you will very likely end up in the wrong surf spot for your ability which can inevitably lead to serious injury, or worse.

Having a frightening experience in waves too large for your skillset can set you back for months if not years. Any good surf coach or guide will quickly progress you through stages if they can see you are able: Noone is going to deliberately hold you back and many surf coaches will naturally push you a little out of your comfort zone as that is generally how we all progress. Surfing is a life-long commitment of learning: Even Pro’s will tell you they are still honing/improving skills on every single wave they take.

We are in the process of making an interactive level guide to help you identify your current surfing-skill set.

Once you have correctly established where you are in your stages of learning, come and see us at Swell Surf Camp in the Dominican Republic. The North coast of the Dominican republic is one of the world’s best destinations for beginner surfers. We’d love to help you keep getting better! Our luxury surf coaching holidays have taught 1000’s of people the sport of surfing in a safe, fun and quick way. If you need any more assistance in ‘diagnosing’ your surf level, just drop us a line and we will try to help out.

We hope you like this article of “what level of surfer am I?” if you do, you might also like the following article: different surfboard and which boards are best suited at which stage of your surfing level, have a look at this page: Different surfboards
Our luxury surf coaching holidays have taught 1000’s of people the sport of surfing in a safe, fun and quick way.

QUESTIONS

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WHAT ARE THE 7 DIFFERENT SURFING LEVELS AND HOW DO THEY DIFFER?

Swell Surf Camp categorizes surfers into 7 distinct levels: Beginner, Novice, Progressive, Intermediate, Advanced, Expert, and Pro. Unlike traditional 4-level systems, this detailed classification helps accurately assess your surfing abilities. Beginners start in whitewater waves under 1ft, learning basic pop-ups and balance. Novices progress to small green waves (1ft) with inconsistent takeoffs. Progressive surfers handle 1-2ft green waves and begin angling. Intermediate surfers confidently surf 2-3ft waves with bottom turns and cutbacks. Advanced surfers tackle 3-5ft waves with vertical re-entries and floaters. Expert and Pro levels handle 5ft+ waves with aerial maneuvers and barrel riding. This comprehensive system ensures safer progression and appropriate wave selection for your skill level.
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO PROGRESS FROM BEGINNER TO INTERMEDIATE SURFER?

Progression from beginner to intermediate typically requires 20-50 hours of quality water time, depending on several factors. Consistent practice, proper instruction, appropriate wave conditions, and correct equipment significantly accelerate learning. Many surfers plateau because they surf poor waves, use inappropriate boards, or lack proper coaching. At Swell Surf Camp, structured lessons in ideal Dominican Republic conditions often achieve faster progression than months of unsupervised practice. Key factors affecting timeline include: frequency of surf sessions, wave quality, board selection, physical fitness, and instruction quality. Some students progress rapidly with intensive coaching, while others need patient, methodical skill building. The journey from catching whitewater to performing cutbacks on green waves involves mastering numerous technical and ocean awareness skills. Quality instruction and honest self-assessment ensure steady, safe progression through each level.
HOW DO I KNOW IF I'M OVERESTIMATING MY SURFING ABILITY?

Overestimating your surf level is dangerous and common - many surfers classify themselves as "intermediate" after just a few lessons. Warning signs include: struggling with consistent pop-ups, inability to catch unbroken green waves, poor wave selection, or feeling overwhelmed in shoulder-high surf. At Swell Surf Camp, we assess actual skills rather than time surfing or lesson count. Key indicators of overestimation include paddling struggles, late takeoffs, looking down while surfing, and poor stance. Honest self-assessment prevents dangerous situations, injuries, and frustrating surf experiences. Use our detailed skill benchmarks - if you can't consistently perform all skills in a level, you're not ready for the next one. Professional surf instruction helps identify your true level safely.
WHAT ARE THE MOST COMMON MISTAKES SURFERS MAKE WHEN SELF-ASSESSING THEIR LEVEL?

The most frequent mistake is classifying yourself as "intermediate" after only a few surf lessons or vacation sessions.
Many surfers focus solely on time spent surfing rather than actual skills mastered, leading to dangerous overestimation.
Common errors include: confusing standing up in whitewater with true wave riding, believing board size doesn't matter for progression, and ignoring surf etiquette and safety knowledge. At Swell Surf Camp, we see students who think they're intermediate but struggle with consistent pop-ups, proper stance, or catching unbroken waves. Other mistakes include judging ability based on one good session rather than consistent performance, and overlooking crucial skills like wave selection and lineup positioning.
Physical factors also mislead - being a strong swimmer doesn't automatically make you an advanced surfer. Our detailed skill benchmarks prevent these assessment errors by evaluating actual surfing competencies rather than assumptions or isolated experiences.
WHAT WAVE SIZE SHOULD I SURF BASED ON MY SURFING LEVEL?

Wave size recommendations vary significantly by skill level for safety and progression. Beginners should stick to 1-3ft whitewater/broken waves to master basic pop-ups and balance. Novice surfers can handle 2-4ft whitewater while learning wave selection. Progressive surfers graduate to 2-4ft unbroken green waves for angling and trimming practice. Intermediate surfers confidently surf 3-5ft unbroken waves, performing turns and cutbacks. Advanced surfers tackle 4-7ft waves with complex maneuvers like floaters and barrel riding. Expert surfers handle 5-8ft powerful surf with vertical re-entries. Pro surfers surf 8ft+ heavy conditions with aerial maneuvers. Surfing waves too large for your level leads to injuries and setbacks. At Swell Surf Camp, our instructors carefully match students with appropriate wave conditions for safe, accelerated learning.
WHAT SKILLS MUST I MASTER TO BECOME AN INTERMEDIATE SURFER?

Becoming an intermediate surfer requires mastering specific technical and ocean skills beyond basic wave catching. You must paddle confidently into chest/head-high waves, execute quick pop-ups, and maintain proper stance. Wave reading becomes crucial - you need excellent wave selection and priority understanding in lineups. Intermediate surfers consistently catch unbroken green waves, angle their takeoffs, and trim down wave faces ahead of whitewater. Essential maneuvers include bottom turns, top turns, and cutbacks.
You should paddle efficiently to lineups, demonstrate proper surf etiquette, and handle various wave conditions.
At Swell Surf Camp, intermediate students work on speed control, stalling techniques for barrel sections, and floater maneuvers. This level demands ocean confidence, equipment knowledge, and refined technique - not just time in water. Professional assessment ensures you've truly mastered each prerequisite skill before progression.
WHAT SURFBOARD SHOULD I USE FOR MY SURFING LEVEL?

Surfboard selection directly impacts your progression and safety in the water. Beginners need 9'0" soft-top surfboards with maximum volume for stability and safety. Novice surfers use 8'0"-9'0" soft or hard-top boards as they transition to green waves. Progressive surfers benefit from 7'0"-8'0" hard-top surfboards for better maneuverability. Intermediate surfers ride 6'8"-7'8" boards to practice advanced turns. Advanced surfers use 6'0"-6'8" performance boards for critical maneuvers. Expert and Pro levels ride 5'5"-6'5" high-performance shortboards. Using boards too small for your level severely hampers progression - volume and length provide crucial stability for skill development. At Swell Surf Camp, we provide appropriate boards for each level and teach you how equipment affects your surfing performance and safety.
WHAT MAKES SWELL SURF CAMP DIFFERENT FOR LEARNING TO ASSESS AND IMPROVE SURFING LEVELS?

Swell Surf Camp pioneered the luxury surf instruction model specifically for beginners and intermediate surfers.
Our detailed 7-level assessment system provides more accurate skill evaluation than traditional 4-level classifications. Located in Cabarete, Dominican Republic, we offer consistent, beginner-friendly waves year-round with professional instruction from passionate coaches. Our systematic approach combines detailed skill benchmarks, appropriate equipment for each level, and structured progression pathways.
Since 2009, we've taught over 9,000 people using our proven methodology emphasizing safety, fun, and accelerated learning.
Our instructors expertly match students with suitable wave conditions and provide real-time feedback for rapid improvement. The luxury accommodations, gourmet meals, and social atmosphere create an ideal learning environment. We offer interactive assessment tools and personalized coaching to accurately identify your current level and plan your progression path efficiently.
WHY IS ACCURATE SURF LEVEL ASSESSMENT CRUCIAL FOR SAFETY?

Accurate surf level assessment prevents injuries, drowning risks, and traumatic experiences that can end surfing careers. Overestimating abilities leads to dangerous wave selection - beginners attempting overhead surf face serious consequences. Misjudging your level also endangers other surfers through poor lineup positioning and wave priority violations. At Swell Surf Camp, we've seen students set back months or years by frightening experiences in waves beyond their abilities. Proper assessment ensures appropriate surf spots, correct equipment selection, and suitable instruction levels. It also prevents the frustration of plateauing due to unrealistic expectations. Our 7-level system provides precise skill benchmarks, allowing safe progression while building confidence. Professional assessment by experienced instructors identifies your true abilities and creates appropriate learning pathways for continuous improvement.

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May 20, 2025August 20, 2025

SURFBOARDS FOR BEGINNERS

BEST SURFBOARDS FOR BEGINNERS

HOW TO PICK A SUITABLE BEGINNER SURF BOARD

Now that you’ve had your first surfing lessons and have decided to continue your surfing career, how do you go about buying your first surfboards for beginners? How do you decide on what to buy?

You might get objective advice from some staff at the surf shop, but there are those who’re ready to sell anything to you, just to get their commission… or you might end up with a salesperson that knows next to nothing about surfing.

Our best surfboards for beginners recommendations in this article will be determined by certain factors – where you surf, how often you surf, and if & how often you travel for surfing.

VOLUME & BEGINNER SURFBOARDS

Volume is the most important factor when choosing surfboard for a beginner. A board with lots of volume will float better which makes it easier for learners to get to their feet and catch the waves.

Surfboard Volume — Different surfboards & their volume

A lot of people make this mistake when purchasing their first surfboard. Minimals, foam boards and longboards come with lots of volume, Shortboards and any surfboard under 6’6”, not so much.

Volume is usually measured in litres. We think a great beginner surfboard should have at least 60 litres of volume – and even better if there’s more. A minimal longboard surfboard could have between 65-80 litres or more volume. Now let’s compare it to one of those performance shortboard used by surf professionals… which might have about 6’1 x 18 ¼ inch shortboards. Its volume should be about 25 litres. If you want to enjoy a board as small as that, you’ll need a lot of surfing technique and the right waves.

Something we see on a regular basis here at Swell is from people with Snowboard experience, they assume that because they are good snowboarders: learning to surf will be easy and quick for them too. As a result, they want to skip the phase of learning on a bigger board. This will not speed up your surfing learning curve: in fact, it will do the opposite. You have to learn the basics: Paddle technique – catching waves – Riding the white water; All these things are best done on surfboard with more than 60 litres of volume.

MORE WAVES = MORE PROGRESS = MORE FUN!

Another common mistake is that after dealing with a big longboard in the water for a few days and seeing experienced surfers on their short boards, is to ‘blame their slow progress on the longboard. Yes, a long beginner’s board is not easy to turn, duck dive, or handle in white water. In the beginning of your surf career, it’s not able to take on big waves or make nice turns. In the beginning of your surfing, you should focus on 1 thing: catching as many waves as you can. Catching more waves = Quicker Progress = More fun!

What you will want as a beginning surfer is to catch waves – starting from the white water, then moving to unbroken ‘green’ waves. And if you want to achieve this as a beginner, you’ll need to get a surfboard with lots of volume. So, at this stage, volume is the most important thing you need in a surfboard.

Durability is another factor to consider for beginner surfboards because you’ll probably end up knocking the board around a bit while you’re learning, which is why you might want to go with something durable.

BEGINNER SURFBOARDS CONSTRUCTION TYPES

SOFT TOP SURFBOARD

These boards come with a soft layer of foam atop them with a slick plastic layer at the bottom.

Extremely durable

They don’t come with sharp points, which makes them safer

Best value for money

Used by practically all the surf schools

MOLDED EPOXY SANDWICH TYPE OF CONSTRUCTION

Bic, NSP & Torq ( which are surfboard brands we use for our Hardtops at Swell) are some of the common brands with this construction type. Although a lot of other brands use similar constructions, they are sometimes called “Pop-outs” because of the mould used for shaping the board’s core.

Very durable
They usually come with removable fins, which are compatible with systems like FCS or Future Fins
Great value is often found in packages with leash & board bags
Proven surfboard shapes

TRADITIONAL POLYESTER RESIN

This has been the standard construction for surfboards for years. This surfboard has a soft foam blank shaped into it and layers of fibreglass cloth and polyester resin laminated across the top to give it a harder outer shell and make it more watertight.

Fairly lightweight
Looks every inch like the traditional surfboard
Available in different shapes and sizes
Comes with removable fins that are easily replaced
Dings and Cracks easily, but can also easily be repaired
Turns yellow-ish after a few months in the sun

EPOXY RESIN SURFBOARD

Shaping surfboard — Custom shaping an epoxy surfboard

This board is similar to the polyester boards but with a different foam for its epoxy resin and core, including a fibreglass cloth outer layer.

- It is lighter than those polyester resin surfboards
- More durable than polyester resin surfboards
- Shaped like those traditional surfboards
- Available in every shape and size
- Comes with removable fins that are easy to replace
- Can easily be repaired if cracked or dinged
- Epoxy boards are lighter boards & more crack-resistant, and their outer layer is more likely to bend, not split when struck by something.

Those are the major types of construction out there, so now you understand the advantages of each construction. You can put this information into consideration when considering the shape of surfboard to pick.

RECOMMENDED SURFBOARDS FOR BEGINNERS

FOAMBOARD/ FOAMIE: LENGTH 7FT – 9FT

THE GOOD STUFF OF FOAM SURFBOARDS

Quite affordable

Very stable

Soft – which is safer in case you get hit by your board

Great to surf the white-water

Can easily catch most waves

THE DOWNSIDE OF FOAMIES:

Pretty heavy

Not much difference between its price and that of hard surfboards

Not great for surfing shoulder-high waves

Not easy to paddle out in bigger surfs

Not very responsive to the surfer’s input

Will not provide long-term fun

What we think of foam surfboards

Foam surfboards can be found in 6 and 7ft (for kids and folks that are lighter) including 8 and 8ft versions. The smallest length for a regular adult to lean on is 8ft. However, you should know that there are quite a number of low-quality, cheap and badly constructed foamies for sale on sites like Ali express and eBay.

PERFECT BEGINNER SURFBOARDS

Foamies are perfect for people who have never surfed before or are in their first stages of learning to surf so make a perfect first surfboard.

However, if you are going to surf on a regular basis you will grow out of the soft top with 5 to 15 surf sessions and want to move onto a hardtop, so our advice is to rent a soft top at your local surf school or join a surf camp like Swell and then move onto the hardtop boards like the ones listed below

FIBERGLASS PU OR EPOXY LONG BOARD: LENGTH 8FT – 9FT+

THE GOOD STUFF

It is faster and easier to manoeuvre than those foam boards

Can be used to learn longboard moves such as hanging 5, cross stepping, etc.

Can be used to surf bigger head waves (provided you can actually paddle out)

Should have good resale value if you ever want to sell

Some people are so in love with longboards that they want to surf forever on them

THE DOWNSIDE

If it is over 8ft long it won’t fit in most cars

Quite bulky to carry around

The fact that it is hard means it will hurt more if it hits you compared to foam boards

Harder to catch waves with them than foam boards

Most airlines don’t allow passengers to check in longboards because of their length

They work better with unbroken ‘green’ waves because they’re not designed to ride white water.

Our Thoughts:

These boards are great for intermediate surfers who want to progress from their first surf lessons on a soft top

This board will keep you entertained for 1 or 2 seasons so you can learn all the surfing fundamentals

Some People love the glide and feel of these boards that they never move onto a shorter board but will stick with this length and type of surfboards for the rest of their surfing career.

Verdict: Recommended as first surfboard/

Worth noting: Not every ‘long’ board is a suitable board for a beginner. There are a lot of high-performance longboards on the market which are geared toward the expert longboarder, they are not very good to learn on. Ask at your local surf shop or bring a friend who can tell the difference.

MINI-MAL SURFBOARDS: LENGTH 7’4 – 8’0

THE GOOD STUFF

The board is smaller so you can easily carry it around

You can fit a 7’6 into a small car

Easier to paddle it in bigger surfs compared to large foam boards

It is also quite progressive, so you can actually enjoy this board for a while

There are people who will rather surf on minimal shaped surfboards

Can be taken on planes – i.e. airlines with an 8ft limit

THE DOWNSIDE

More difficult to catch waves compared to foamies or long boards

They’re not so soft, so you might want to avoid getting hit with them

A minimal board is still a large board so it might be a little difficult to navigate high waves (though it is advisable to stick to smaller waves if you’re a beginner).

They’re slower than the smaller surfboards

Our Thoughts:

Not a bad board for someone to buy after they have had 5 or so sessions on a soft top, however, works best in this size range for lighter men, women or kids.

Verdict: Recommended as a first surfboard for any surfer!

FUN SHAPES

Fun shaped surfboards like minimals are smaller versions of longboards without their middle 2ft.
Comes with thruster and single fin options

THE GOOD STUFF

They’re easier to carry since they’re lighter than foamies and large long boards

These boards which are a little smaller than minimals are faster and easier to paddle out when the surf becomes bigger

Small enough to meet the requirements of most airlines

It is also quite progressive, so you can actually enjoy this board for a while

It is quite popular among surfers, so it has great resale value

It can fit into most cars

THE DOWNSIDE

It doesn’t have as much volume as a long board, so it would require a little more effort to actually catch waves

It is harder to learn on this board than on a longer board

Have to be surfed in more critical parts of the wave to generate enough speed and lift

Our Thoughts:

Not the quickest way to progress in your surfing, you will catch fewer waves and most likely have shorter rides than on the boards listed above. On the plus side, they do cater to a large variety of surf conditions

Verdict: Not ideal but can work as a first surfboard purchase

SHORT BOARDS

THE GOOD STUFF

Great designs at affordable prices

More manoeuvrable and faster than all the other boards mentioned above (fun boards, foamies, minimals and long boards).

They are light and easy to manoeuvre

Easier to duck dive with them under waves whenever you’re paddling out

Can surf both small waist high and overhead waves

They’re small enough to fit the requirements of most airlines

THE DOWNSIDE

Beginners catch very few waves

Waves need to be caught and surfed in the critical part of the wave

Very unstable in small waves

Our Thoughts:

Unless you are young, light and/ or a very very quick progressing surfer with lots of talent, it is not recommended to buy a small shortboard as your first surfboard. You will struggle learning the basics and the gap from a soft-top foamie to a shortboard is huge

Verdict: Don’t buy a standard shortboard as your first surfboard when you are still a beginner / intermediate surfer.

Our final thoughts on the best surfboards for beginners

Buying a surfboard is always a compromise, at the stage of your surf career, every surfboard has different characteristics: some work better in hollow waves, some work better in big waves etc. Starting off your first season as a surfer, we think one of the most important aspects of your surfing should be to catch as many waves as possible.

Bigger boards work well in being able to catch lots of waves and providing good stability once you are up and riding. Yes, shortboards are better for advanced manoeuvres, but…. if you can’t catch the waves in the first place you will not be pulling any fancy moves at all.

Lots of surf shops are also affiliated with a local surf school ( or run one themselves), so ask them if it’s possible to try a certain board from their rental pool before buying it.

Volume is your friend: more volume = more waves = more fun!

HOW DO I MAINTAIN AND CARE FOR MY SURFBOARD

Taking good care of your surfboard will help it last longer and perform better. Here are some simple tips to keep your board in top shape:

Rinse with fresh water: After each surf session, rinse your board with fresh water to remove salt and sand.
Store properly: Keep your surfboard in a cool, shaded area. Avoid direct sunlight, as it can damage the board’s material.
Use a board bag: A board bag can protect your surfboard from dings and scratches during transport.
Repair dings promptly: If you notice any dings or cracks, fix them as soon as possible to prevent water from seeping in.
Avoid dragging: Always carry your board; dragging it can cause unnecessary wear and tear.
Check the fins: Make sure the fins are secure and not damaged. Loose or broken fins can affect your surfing.
Wax regularly: Keep your board waxed for better grip. Remove old wax before applying a new layer.

By following these steps, you can ensure your surfboard stays in great condition for many surf sessions to come.

QUICK QUESTIONS ABOUT BEGINNER SURFBOARDS

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HOW LONG SHOULD A BEGINNER SURFBOARD BE?

Aim for something around 8 to 9 feet, or roughly three feet taller than you. That size gives you tons of float, paddling speed, and the stability you need when you’re trying to stand up for the first time. It’s a no-brainer if you want to learn faster.
WHEN IS IT TIME TO MOVE ON FROM MY BEGINNER SURFBOARD?

When catching waves on your soft board gets boring and you’re itching for speed or sharper turns— that’s the sign. You'll know: the board won’t hold you back anymore; you’ll be holding back your board.
WHAT KIND OF SURFBOARD FOR BEGINNERS IS EASIEST TO LEARN ON?

Soft-top foam boards—or “foamies”—are hands down the safest, simplest boards to start on. They’re forgiving, buoyant, and much less painful when you inevitably smack your face. Ideal for catching your first waves.
HOW MUCH SHOULD I EXPECT TO SPEND ON A GOOD SURFBOARD FOR BEGINNERS?

Expect to pay $200–$400 for a decent soft-top. Want something lighter or built to last? Epoxy or high-volume funboards cost more—$500–$800—but that’s only worth it once you know you want to stick with surfing.
DO I NEED FINS AND A LEASH ON A BEGINNER SURFBOARD?

Absolutely. Fins give you control and stop you from spinning like a cork. A leash keeps the board attached, so you’re not swimming after it every wipeout. Both are non-negotiable if you actually want to learn without losing half your session.
I’M WATCHING MY BUDGET—SHOULD I BUY A NEW OR USED BEGINNER SURFBOARD?

uying used can save you a chunk, but don’t get a board full of unseen dings. If you go new, stick with a soft-top from a reputable surf shop—we sell ones that cost about as much as a night of dinner and drinks but will help you catch waves all summer. Just don’t let commission-driven advice cloud your judgement.
HOW DO FOAM SURFBOARDS COMPARE TO FIBERGLASS OR EPOXY ONES?

Foamies = gentle, bouncy learning platforms. Stores are forgiving. Fiberglass or epoxy boards are stiffer, faster, and feel more “alive”—but unforgiving if you bail too hard or catch your rail on your knee.
CAN KIDS USE THE SAME SURFBOARD FOR BEGINNERS AS ADULTS?

Not really. Kids need smaller soft-tops—around 6 to 7 feet—so they can actually carry the thing down the beach. They still need float, but not a boat-sized log. Foam boards are perfect for safety and confidence.
HOW DO I MAKE MY BEGINNER BOARD LAST LONGER?

Wash with fresh water after every session, stash it in the shade when you’re done, wax regularly, and check for dings before they become disasters. A little love goes a long way—especially if you don’t want to spend your next paycheck on a replacement.

ABOUT SWELL SURF CAMP

Located on the scenic north coast of the Dominican Republic is our purpose-built surf resort with a learn to surf package beginner surf camp package

We cater for surfers of all levels, from beginners to expert surfers who are looking for an active surf holiday

We at Swell offers full surf packages holidays

Interested in learning how to surf? Have a look at the surf vacation packages we offer for our guests at Swell Surf camp

MORE SURFBOARD INFO

Different surfboard shapes explained

Our luxury surf coaching holidays have taught 1000’s of people the sport of surfing in a safe, fun and quick way.

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July 3, 2024June 22, 2025

EXPLORE LIKE A PRO: INTERMEDIATE SURF DESTINATIONS

KEY HIGHLIGHTS

Intermediate surfers find themselves in a sweet spot, having mastered the basics but still with plenty of room to improve and push their surfing to the next level. For those looking to progress, choosing the right surf destination is key. The ideal spots offer not just consistent waves but also a friendly surf culture and various types of breaks that cater to different levels of experience.

Among intermediate surfers’ top picks are Costa Rica, Bali in Indonesia, Australia’s Gold Coast, Portugal, Morocco, and the Dominican Republic. Each location brings something special to the table – from perfect waves that make every ride unforgettable in places like Bali and Portugal’s exotic beaches with their challenging breaks.

EXPLORE LIKE A PRO: INTERMEDIATE SURF DESTINATIONS

When planning your trip though you must weigh up each place carefully considering things such as how crowded they might be when you visit or how easy it is getting around there because these factors can affect your overall experience.

And don’t forget about using online resources! Online coaching has become an invaluable tool for many intermediates aiming at sharpening their skills further without being physically present at these destinations.

INTRODUCTION

Being in the middle of your surfing journey is pretty cool. You’ve moved on from being a beginner, got the hang of paddling and catching waves, and now you’re set to tackle tougher spots and tricks. At this stage as an intermediate surfer, you’re eager to check out new places, try riding different kinds of waves, and dive deep into what it means to live the surf life. Whether your goal is to get better at surfing, soak up new cultures or just have fun cruising on waves in stunning locations around the globe – there’s a bunch of spots perfect for someone like you who’s not quite a newbie but not yet an expert either.

WHAT IS AN INTERMEDIATE SURFER?

Intermediate surfers possess basic surfing skills and can catch unbroken waves independently. They are comfortable navigating different wave conditions and improving their techniques. Unlike beginners, they seek more challenging waves but may not be ready for advanced breaks yet.

WHAT MAKES A GOOD INTERMEDIATE SURF DESTINATION?

A good intermediate surf destination offers consistent waves suitable for progressing skills, experienced instructors, a vibrant surf culture, and various breaks catering to different levels.

EXPLORE THE TOP SURF DESTINATIONS FOR INTERMEDIATE SURFERS

There’s a whole world out there with amazing spots for intermediate surfers looking to step up their game. Whether it’s the warm waters of the Caribbean, the diverse coasts of Europe, Africa’s hidden gems, or Asia’s vibrant surf scenes, each place has its own unique set of waves and a friendly surfing community that makes every surf trip unforgettable. Exploring these top destinations will not only offer you a variety of waves perfect for honing your skills but also introduce you to cultures and experiences that enrich your journey as an intermediate surfer.

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC: A CARIBBEAN SURF PARADISE

The Dominican Republic is like a dream come true for anyone who loves to surf. It’s got everything: warm water, beaches with white sand, and waves that just seem perfect. Surfers from all around the world can’t help but be drawn to this place. For those at an intermediate level, it’s especially appealing. But really, no matter if you’re just starting out or have been surfing for a while and want to get even better, there’s something here for every surfer. With different kinds of waves – some gentle and easy-going on sandy beaches and others more challenging over reefs – this spot is truly a paradise for surfers looking to ride the perfect wave or beginners eager to stand up on their board for the first time.

COSTA RICA: PURA VIDA WAVES

Costa Rica is a great spot for intermediate surfers, famous for its “Pura Vida” way of life and top-notch waves. With spots on both the Pacific and Caribbean sides, there’s a wide range of waves that cater to every surfer’s skill level. Whether you’re into easy-going beach breaks or looking for more challenging reef breaks, Costa Rica covers it all. For those aiming to push their surfing skills further, the country is packed with surf camps and schools offering expert advice and coaching.

BALI, INDONESIA: EXOTIC BEACHES

Bali, Indonesia is like a dream come true for surfers at every skill level, especially those who are intermediate. With its beautiful beaches that seem to stretch on forever, a lively surfing scene, and waves that push you to your limits, Bali creates memories that stick with you.

On this island, there’s no shortage of top-notch surf spots – from easy-going beach breaks perfect for beginners to the more demanding reef breaks seasoned pros love. For those in the middle – the intermediate surfers – there’s plenty of waves just right for honing their skills while still offering up challenges to tackle next levels. Thanks to an international airport welcoming flights from all corners of the globe, getting here is a breeze which makes Bali a go-to spot for anyone looking to catch some waves.

AUSTRALIA: PERFECT BUT CROWDED WAVES

Australia is famous for its amazing surf, and the Gold Coast stands out in this regard. With top-notch waves, beautiful beaches, and a lively surfing scene, it’s paradise for anyone who loves to surf.

For those at an intermediate level, there’s a wide range of spots along the coast offering everything from gentle point breaks to more challenging beach breaks. On top of that, the Gold Coast boasts plenty of surf schools and camps where intermediate surfers can get expert advice and training. In Asutralia Surfing is pretty much the national sport, as a results expect some serious crowds as some of the top intermediate surf spots

PORTUGAL: EUROPE’S SURFING JEWEL

Portugal has quickly turned into a go-to spot for surfing in Europe, and it’s easy to see why. Its beautiful coastlines offer consistent waves that are perfect for the sport. For those at an intermediate level, there’s a whole range of spots to try out, from gentle beach breaks to challenging reef ones.

In Portugal, you’ll also find expert surf guides ready to show intermediate surfers around and help them make the most of their time in the water. Whether you’re drawn to the well-known spots like Ericeira or want to brave the intense waves at Nazaré, Portugal welcomes every surfer with open arms.

MOROCCO: AFRICAN SWELLS AND CULTURAL DIVES

Morocco is a fantastic spot for surf lovers, especially if you’re at an intermediate level. With its unique African swells and deep cultural roots, this place has something special to offer. Along its lengthy coastline, you’ll find a variety of waves – from easy-going beach breaks to the more challenging point breaks. But surfing isn’t the only thing on the menu here.

In Morocco, you can dive into local traditions, wander through lively markets, and taste some amazing Moroccan dishes (side note: this also is also where I caught my worst food poisoning ever, so be careful) . So whether it’s catching great waves or experiencing new cultures that excites you, Morocco stands out as a great destination for intermediate surfers looking for both adventure and challenge.

Surfing in the Dominican Republic: An Intro

The Dominican Republic beckons with its pristine coastline and perfect waves, making it an ideal spot for intermediate surfers.

Known for its consistent surf conditions and warm waters, this Caribbean paradise offers a variety of breaks suitable for surfers at the next level. From beach breaks to reef breaks, the Dominican Republic has it all. Surfing here promises an unforgettable experience amidst breathtaking scenery and a vibrant surf culture.

Let’s dive into why this destination stands out for intermediate surfers.

Why The Dominican Republic is a Top Surf Destination For Intermediate Surfers

With its diverse range of intermediate waves, the Dominican Republic stands out as a top surf destination for those looking to elevate their skills. From beach breaks to reef breaks, this Caribbean paradise offers the perfect setting for surfers seeking the next level of challenge. The warm waters and consistent waves make it an ideal spot for intermediate surfers to explore and progress in their surfing journey.

The Different Surf Spots On The North Coast of the Dominican Republic

The North Coast of the Dominican Republic offers a diverse range of surf spots catering to intermediate surfers. Encuentro Beach is renowned for consistent waves suitable for honing skills, while Playa Grande provides a thrilling experience with its powerful breaks. For those seeking a more secluded setting, Playa Preciosa offers a tranquil environment to ride the waves. Each spot presents a unique surfing experience, allowing surfers to explore the variety of waves the North Coast has to offer.

Why Costa Rica Appeals to Intermediate Surfers

Costa Rica is a great place for surf lovers, especially if you’re not a beginner but not quite an expert either. With its variety of waves, including easy-going beach breaks and the tougher reef ones, it’s perfect for intermediate surfers looking to get better. On top of that, there are plenty of surf camps around where pros can help you up your game.

Benefits of Choosing Costa Rica for Your Next Surf Trip

If you’re thinking about where to go for your next surf trip, Costa Rica should be at the top of your list, especially if you’re an intermediate surfer. With its variety of waves, it’s a great destination no matter what level you’re at in surfing. In Costa Rica, there are plenty of spots with gentle beach breaks perfect for easy rides and also tougher reef breaks if you’re looking to challenge yourself. On top of that, there are lots of surf camps around that offer expert coaching to help push your surfing skills to the next level. The warm waters, stunning beaches, and lively surf scene make sure that every moment spent here is memorable.

Considerations for Surfing in Costa Rica

Costa Rica is an amazing place for surfers who’ve got some experience under their belt, but there are a few things to think about. With the waves changing in size and strength, you need to be ready for anything. On top of that, getting to some of the best spots might mean a decent amount of paddling, so being in good shape helps a lot. It’s crucial too, to play by the local rules when you’re out on the water and keep an eye out for other surfers sharing the wave with you. If intermediate surfers come well-prepared and respect these points, they’re set up for an awesome time surfing in Costa Rica.

Pros And Cons For Surfing in Costa Rica

Costa Rica is a popular surf destination known for its beautiful beaches and consistent waves. It offers a variety of breaks suitable for intermediate surfers. Here are some pros and cons of surfing in Costa Rica:

Pros:

Costa Rica has a tropical climate, making it an ideal destination for surfers who enjoy warm water and sunny weather.
The country is home to a wide range of surf spots, from beginner-friendly beach breaks to more challenging reef breaks.
There are plenty of surf guides and surf schools available in Costa Rica, making it easy for intermediate surfers to improve their skills and get local knowledge.
Intermediate surf camps are also available, providing a structured learning environment for surfers looking to take their skills to the next level.

Cons:

Costa Rica can get crowded, especially during the peak surf season. Surfers may have to deal with crowded lineups and limited wave opportunities at popular breaks.
The cost of living in Costa Rica can be higher compared to other surf destinations, especially in popular tourist areas.
Some breaks in Costa Rica require a good level of fitness and experience, as they can be challenging and have powerful waves.

Surf spots in Costa Rica, like Playa Tamarindo and Playa Hermosa, are too crowded. These places draw lots of surfers every day. With so many people, it’s hard to catch good waves without bumping into others.

Inconsistent Waves During Peak Seasons

As crowds gather, another issue comes up: inconsistent waves during peak seasons. The dry season, from December to April, brings smaller waves. These are good for beginners. But the rainy season from May to November can have too big of waves for them.

This makes it hard for surfers of all levels to find just the right wave.

The Allure of Bali for Intermediate Surfers

Bali, in Indonesia, is like a dream spot for surfers who’ve got some experience under their belt. With its beautiful beaches and waves that offer a bit of a challenge, Bali creates this perfect surfing scene. The island’s known for having waves all year round and the water’s always warm, which makes it just right for any time you want to hit the surf. On top of that, Bali’s full of life with its surfing culture and has plenty of places to stay, surf camps to join, and guides who can help intermediate surfers get even better.

So if you’re aiming to up your surfing game or just soak in the stunning views while catching some waves, Bali’s ready to welcome every intermediate surfer out there.

What Makes Bali a Unique Surf Destination

Bali stands out as a surf spot that has something for everyone. With its beautiful beaches and exciting waves, it draws surfers from all corners of the globe. The island is celebrated for having a wide variety of waves, including easy-going beach breaks and intense reef breaks. On top of that, Bali’s lively surf scene is supported by numerous surf shops, schools, and camps designed to help every surfer improve.

Among the best parts about surfing in Bali is getting to know the famous Balinese hospitality. The locals are super friendly and make everyone feel at home. Besides great surfing conditions, Bali dazzles with its stunning natural scenery – think green landscapes, volcanic mountainsides, and gorgeous sunsets that add an extra layer of magic to your time on the water. No matter if you’re just starting out or have been surfing for years; Bali promises an unforgettable adventure on the waves.

Points to Keep in Mind When Surfing in Bali

When you’re surfing in Bali, remember a couple of things to make sure you have fun and stay safe. For starters, keep an eye out for the reef breaks around Bali. They can be pretty tricky and need some experience to handle properly. Make sure you pick a spot that matches how good you are at surfing and try not to push yourself too hard.

Next up, think about adding some yoga into your surf trip plans. A lot of places where surfers hang out offer yoga classes as well. Doing yoga could really help with making your body more flexible and stable, which is great for when you’re on the water.

And don’t just stick to the beaches; take advantage of everything else Bali has got going on! There’s loads of cultural spots and lively nightlife scenes across the island worth checking out. Plus, trying out local dishes is a must-do for getting the full Balinese experience while visiting.

We at Swell opened our Swell Bali Surf Camp in 2020, but closed it in 2023 because we felt we could not give our clients surf lessons in a safe way. After the pandemic, the tourist numbers that came to Bali made it an unsafe and unpleasant surf destination for us, and thus we closed in 2023 and moved on to another Indonesian island paradise with far less crowds.

Surfing the Waves of Cornwall, England

Cornwall, England offers intermediate surfers a diverse experience with its mix of beach breaks and point breaks. Surfing here provides a chance to explore the beautiful coastline and enjoy a range of waves suitable for those looking to progress to the next level. With surf schools and surf camps available, Cornwall caters to surfers of all levels, making it a perfect destination for those seeking fun waves and a welcoming surf community.

Reasons to Surf in Cornwall, England

Cornwall, England entices surfers with its rugged coastline, offering a mix of beach breaks and reef breaks suitable for intermediate surfers. With consistent swells and a vibrant surf culture, Cornwall is a surfing haven. The picturesque landscapes and charming villages add to the allure, creating a unique surfing experience.

Surfing in Cornwall provides an opportunity to immerse yourself in a rich surfing heritage while enjoying the thrill of riding the waves amidst stunning surroundings.

Pros And Cons For Going to Cornwall

Pros And Cons For Going to Cornwall:

Cornwall offers a picturesque coastline with consistent waves, ideal for intermediate surfers seeking challenging breaks. The region boasts a vibrant surfing community and multiple surf schools for enthusiasts of all levels. However, the water can be colder compared to tropical destinations, necessitating appropriate wetsuits. Additionally, during peak seasons, crowded lineups can hinder the surfing experience. Despite these factors, Cornwall’s stunning landscapes and cultural charm make it a compelling surf destination.

Discovering Portugal’s Surf Spots

Portugal is like a treasure chest for surfers who aren’t beginners but not quite experts either, with perfect waves and an exciting surf scene. In places like the famous Nazaré and Peniche, or the cozy surf spots of Ericeira and Sagres, there’s something for every surfer. Along its varied coastline, you’ll find all kinds of surfing spots – from challenging reef breaks to gentle beach ones. Thanks to its regular swell and warm waters, Portugal is a top pick for intermediate surfers eager to get better while catching new waves.

The Charm of Surfing in Portugal

For intermediate surfers aiming to take their skills up a notch, Portugal is the ideal spot for an unforgettable surf trip. This country is known for having some of Europe’s best waves, catering to all skill levels. With famous spots like Supertubos in Peniche and the gentle Ribeira D’llhas point break in Ericeira, there’s something here for everyone.

In Portugal, it’s not just about perfect waves; the beautiful scenery and relaxed surfing atmosphere add to its charm as a top-notch surf destination. Along its coast are quaint surfing towns filled with schools and camps led by seasoned guides eager to enhance your experience.

So if you’re starting out or looking to advance further as an intermediate surfer, Portugal stands out as the ultimate choice for your next level adventure in surf travel.

What makes Portugal a Good Surf Trip For Intermediate Surfers

Embracing Morocco’s Surf Culture

Morocco is an amazing place to surf, mixing cool waves with a rich culture. It’s got all sorts of waves, making it perfect for intermediate surfers who want to catch some action on the water. From point breaks to beach breaks, there’s something here for every kind of surfer. But surfing isn’t the only thing Morocco has going for it; you can also dive into its colorful markets, try out tasty food, and enjoy the friendly people around. So if you’re an intermediate surfer looking to get better or just soak up some local vibes, Morocco offers a bit of everything.

The Appeal of Moroccan Waves

Morocco offers diverse waves for surfers of all levels, from gentle beach breaks to challenging point breaks like Anchor Point and Taghazout. The consistent high-quality waves, fueled by Atlantic swells, provide ideal conditions for surfing. In addition to great waves, surfing in Morocco offers a cultural experience with friendly locals and delicious food, making it a memorable adventure for surfers at any level.

Disadvantages of choosing Morocco

While Morocco offers exotic waves and cultural experiences, there are some drawbacks for intermediate surfers. The inconsistent wave quality and crowded lineups can be challenging. Additionally, language barriers and cultural differences may pose communication difficulties. The lack of well-established surf infrastructure compared to other destinations could make navigating the surf spots more demanding. Despite these drawbacks, Morocco’s unique charm and adventurous spirit still attract surfers seeking a different kind of surfing experience.

Conclusion

If you’re on the hunt for some thrilling waves or peaceful rides, these best surf spots are perfect for intermediate surfers. With places ranging from the paradise-like Dominican Republic to Morocco’s rich culture, every spot has something special. So grab your board and get ready to explore these amazing surfing destinations. When you feel like catching some waves, reach out so we can help plan your next adventure in paradise!

Why Got On An Intermediate Surf Holiday With Swell Surf camp

Embark on an intermediate surf holiday with Swell Surf camp for a perfect mix of learning and adventure. Benefit from experienced surf guides, intermediate surf camps, and a variety of waves suitable for your skill level.

Swell Surf camp offers the ideal setting to take your surfing to the next level with their expert instructors and supportive environment. Whether you seek fun waves, perfect waves, or just a great destination to improve, Swell Surf camp caters to all your surfing desires.

About Swell Surf camp

Swell Surf Camp offers intermediate surfers a variety of waves to enhance their skills in a tropical climate. Located near 3 international airports. Embrace the surf culture at this surf camp and take your surfing to the next level with the perfect waves and expert guidance.

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What should intermediate surfers look for in a surf destination?

Intermediate surfers should look for surf destinations with consistent wave conditions, manageable swell sizes, and a mix of beach, reef, or point breaks. Locations with warm water, fewer crowds, and access to surf coaching are also ideal for progression.

How do I know if a surf destination is suitable for an intermediate level surfer?

A surf destination is suitable for intermediate surfers if it has waves ranging from chest to head-high, predictable takeoffs, and space to practice maneuvers like cutbacks and bottom turns. Look for a balance between challenging and forgiving wave types.

What wave types are best for intermediate surfers when choosing a destination?

Point and reef breaks with long, peeling waves are best for intermediate surfers, as they allow time to develop control and technique. Gentle beach breaks with moderate power are also great for refining skills in a safer environment.

Are surf destinations with reef breaks good for intermediate surfers?

Reef breaks can be good for intermediate surfers if the reef is deep and the wave is not too powerful. These breaks offer consistent shape and longer rides, but it’s important to evaluate the safety and difficulty level before paddling out.

How important is surf consistency when picking an intermediate surf destination?

Surf consistency is very important for intermediate surfers. Destinations with frequent, rideable waves allow for more time in the water, which leads to faster progression. Research seasonal swell patterns to choose a location with reliable conditions.

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March 11, 2024March 11, 2024

SWELL MARCH 2024

SWELL NEWS

WHAT’S BEEN GOING ON AT SWELL SURF CAMP.

We haven’t posted many updates on our website, since we have been right in the middle of a very busy high season here on the North coast of the Dominican Republic.

We have pretty much had a full house at Swell From December until now (March 2024). The majority of the clients came from North America And West Europe.

THE SURF CONDITIONS.

The conditions for learn to surf and for intermediate surfers to improve their surfing have been great with lots of days of waves in the chest to shoulder high range. The surf Instructor team is going steady with our 5 qualified surf instructors, meaning that most swell clients were in a surf lesson with a 4 to 1 student ratio or less.

YOGA CLASSES AT SWELL

Molly’s Yoga classes have always been popular, but this season were are seeing that 70 to 80% of our clients join in with the Swell Yoga classes. The yoga classes are accessible to people with all levels of Yoga. First-timers have loved the classes.

THINKING ABOUT JOINING US?

Clare still has some dates open for April and May if you are in need of sun, surf and good vibes, send here a message today and you could be out in the Caribbean soon.

FOOD AT SWELL

Our clients rave about the food that Haudy and her staff prepare. Read the latest reviews here about what our clients had to say

LEARN TO WING FOIL / WING SURF

Wing foiling has gotten very popular, even in the “non” wind season, lots fo clients have signed up for the wingfoiling lessons and have easily managed to get up and riding after their 8 hour lesson course. The coming 5 months in windy season should be a great time to learn this new and exciting sport of wing foiling.

Want to go for big jumps? Learn to kite surf

We hope to see you soon in the action sport capital of the Caribbean.

Jeroen & Clare and the rest of the team at Swell

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August 2, 2023October 22, 2023

SURF & YOGA HOLIDAYS IN THE CARIBEAN

SURF & YOGA IN PARADISE

SURF & YOGA: WHY IT’S SUCH A PERFECT MATCH!

As surfers we have long been big fans of Yoga, it’s the perfect supplement to a healthy lifestyle and ensures you can stay fit and flexible to continue your surfing as you get older. Below

SURF & YOGA HOLIDAYS

Are you craving an escape from the hustle and bustle of daily life? Do you dream of basking in the warm sun, riding the waves, and finding inner peace? If so, a surf and yoga holiday might be just what you need. And there’s no better place to experience this perfect blend of adventure and relaxation than with Swell Surf Camp. In this article, we’ll explore the compelling reasons why you should embark on a surf and yoga holiday with Swell Surf Camp for an unforgettable experience of a lifetime.

HARMONIZING THE ELEMENTS: SURFING AND YOGA

Surfing and yoga, though seemingly different activities, share a beautiful harmony. Surfing allows you to connect with the powerful ocean, riding waves that bring a sense of exhilaration and freedom. On the other hand, yoga allows you to connect with your inner self, promoting physical, mental, and spiritual well-being. The combination of these two practices creates a unique and transformative experience.

Swell Surf Camp has mastered the art of blending these two disciplines seamlessly. Imagine starting your day with a sunrise yoga session, where you’ll stretch and strengthen your body, preparing it for the exciting adventures that lie ahead. Afterward, you’ll hit the waves with expert instructors who will guide you through the surfing journey, helping you catch that perfect wave and feel the thrill of gliding on water. This balanced approach ensures you leave the camp feeling recharged, physically invigorated, and mentally centered.\

EXPERT GUIDANCE AND COACHING

Whether you’re a complete beginner or an experienced surfer or yogi, Swell Surf Camp caters to all skill levels. The camp’s team of professional instructors is not only highly experienced in their respective fields but also passionate about sharing their knowledge with others. Their expertise will guide you to progress in both surfing and yoga, regardless of your starting point.

If you’re new to surfing, the instructors will provide you with a solid foundation, teaching you essential techniques, safety measures, and wave dynamics. For seasoned surfers, they’ll help you fine-tune your skills and even introduce you to advanced maneuvers. Similarly, the yoga instructors will lead you through various styles of yoga, catering to different preferences and abilities, ensuring that you benefit from the practice, both physically and mentally.

THE HEALING POWER OF NATURE

One of the most remarkable aspects of a surf and yoga holiday with Swell Surf Camp is the stunning natural locations of their camps. Swell Surf Camp has thoughtfully selected pristine beaches and scenic spots that harmonize with the environment, allowing you to immerse yourself in nature’s beauty.

Picture yourself practicing yoga on the soft sand as the sun rises over the horizon, filling the sky with breathtaking colors. The soothing sound of waves crashing nearby and the gentle breeze brushing against your skin create an environment that fosters relaxation and self-reflection. The natural surroundings act as a catalyst for personal growth and healing, making your holiday truly transformative.

EMBRACING THE SURFING LIFESTYLE

Surfing is not just a sport; it’s a way of life. Swell Surf Camp embraces the surfing lifestyle, fostering a sense of community, camaraderie, and respect for the ocean. As you spend time with fellow surf enthusiasts, you’ll find yourself connecting with like-minded individuals from all over the world.

Whether you’re sharing stories around a beach bonfire or cheering each other on as you ride the waves, you’ll forge bonds that can last a lifetime. This sense of belonging and the shared passion for surfing and yoga create a positive and supportive atmosphere throughout the camp.

UNPLUGGING AND RECONNECTING

In our increasingly digital world, it’s essential to take time for ourselves and unplug from screens and constant distractions. A surf and yoga holiday with Swell Surf Camp provides the perfect opportunity to disconnect from the virtual world and reconnect with yourself and the present moment.

During your time at Swell Surf Camp, you’ll have the chance to slow down, savoring each moment without the pressure of deadlines and obligations. You’ll be encouraged to be fully present, embracing the simple joys of life: the sound of waves, the taste of fresh meals, and the joy of genuine human connections. Yes we have internet at Swell, but we encourage everyone to minimise the “online life” and instead enjoy social meals with new friends.

A UNIQUE SURF & YOGA EXPERIENCE

Swell Surf Camp understands that each individual is unique, with different preferences and needs. That’s why our surf and yoga holiday packages are customizable to you.

If you have dietary preferences or restrictions, our culinary team will prepare delicious meals that cater to your needs.

**Conclusion**

A surf and yoga holiday with Swell Surf Camp offers a unique opportunity to harmonize the elements of adventure and serenity. Through expert guidance, a vibrant community, and a focus on personalization, We try to create an unforgettable experience tailored to your needs. Embrace the surf & yoga lifestyle, unplug from the digital world, and embark on a journey of self-discovery and growth. Book your surf and yoga holiday with Swell Surf Camp today and change your lifestyle.

ACCOMMODATION: STAY IN COMFORT AND STYLE

At Swell we have been providing active surf and kitesurfing holidays in the Caribbean since 2009, in 2021 we added learn to wingfoil packages to our services.

Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding!

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June 23, 2023July 2, 2024

CARRIBEAN WINGFOIL PARADISE

CABARETE A WINGFOILING PARADISE

Cabarete: A Windsport Paradise

Located on the north coast of the Dominican Republic, Cabarete has earned a well-deserved reputation as a windsport paradise. This small town, once a quiet fishing village, has transformed into a mecca for windsurfing, kitesurfing, and other exhilarating watersports. From its perfect weather conditions to its stunning natural beauty and vibrant beach culture, Cabarete offers an irresistible combination of factors that make it a haven for windsport enthusiasts from around the world.

CABARETE WINGFOILING PARADISE PLAYGROUND

HISTORY OF CABARETE AS A WIND TOWN

The first ones to discover the appeal of Cabarete as a wind town were the windsurfers in the early 80’s. They enjoyed an empty Cabarete bay with white sandy beaches a large open bay for slalom windsurfing and the waves on the reef for wave windsurfing. It was windsurfers that put Cabarete on the map. In the early 2000, with the rise of kitesurfing become the new rage in watersports that cabarete got a new influx of watersport lovers. The steady side onshore wind of 15 to 25 knots (ideal range) appealed to kite surfers of all levels. Today Cabarete is still widely regarded as one of the best places in the world for kitesurfing. 20 years later, Cabarete is once again in the spotlight for being one of the best wingfoiling / Wingsurfing destinations in the world. Wide open spaces, flat water, gentle rolling deep water swell and waves create the ultimate playground for beginners and experts wingfoilers.

One of the primary reasons Cabarete is considered a windsport paradise is its exceptional wind conditions. Situated between the Atlantic Ocean and the Cordillera Septentrional mountain range, the town benefits from the constant trade winds that blow consistently throughout the year. The easterly trade winds, known as the Alisios, provide a steady and reliable breeze, creating ideal conditions for windsurfing and kitesurfing. These consistent winds, typically ranging from 15 to 30 knots, allow riders of all levels to enjoy their favorite sports without interruptions or frustration. Whether you are a seasoned pro or a beginner looking to learn, Cabarete’s winds will not disappoint.

WIND CONDITIONS IN CABARETE, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

Trade Winds: Cabarete experiences the influence of the easterly trade winds, known as the Alisios. These trade winds blow consistently from the east and are responsible for the reliable wind conditions in the area. The prevailing wind direction ensures that riders can enjoy their sports with a steady and predictable breeze.

Wind Speed / wind strength : The wind speeds in Cabarete are generally suitable for windsports. The average wind speed ranges from 15 to 30 knots, providing enough power for riders to harness and enjoy their chosen activities. These wind speeds are suitable for riders of all levels, from beginners to professionals.

Wind Consistency: One of the key advantages of Cabarete is the consistency of its wind conditions. Throughout the year, the town experiences a high percentage of windy days, ensuring that windsport enthusiasts have ample opportunities to get out on the water. This consistency allows for regular practice, skill development, and a reliable wind-dependent lifestyle.

Seasonal Variation: While Cabarete enjoys consistent winds year-round, there are some seasonal variations in wind patterns. The summer months (June to August) tend to have stronger winds, making it an excellent time for advanced riders seeking more challenging conditions. The winter months (December to February) offer slightly milder winds, which are more suitable for beginners and freestyle enthusiasts.

Overall, Cabarete’s wind statistics demonstrate why it is considered a windsport paradise. The consistent trade winds, favorable wind speeds, and wide wind window make it an ideal destination for windsurfing, kitesurfing, and other related activities. Whether you are a seasoned professional or a beginner looking to learn, Cabarete’s wind conditions offer an exhilarating and unforgettable experience.

OTHER SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES

Cabarete boasts a diverse range of water conditions, further enhancing its appeal as a windsport paradise. The town is blessed with a unique geography that offers something for everyone. The expansive beach, stretching for several kilometers, provides ample space for kiteboarders and windsurfers to glide across the water, showcasing their skills and tricks. Additionally, the Atlantic Ocean’s waves, combined with the reef breaks and offshore swells, create excellent opportunities for wave riding. Cabarete Bay, protected by a natural coral reef, offers calmer waters, making it an ideal spot for beginners and freestyle enthusiasts. This variety of conditions ensures that windsport enthusiasts can always find their preferred style of riding, making Cabarete an inclusive and versatile destination.
Watersport adrenaline away from the ocean? That’s possible too. Go on a Canyoning trip to the 27 waterfalls, 30 minutes out of Cabarete. You’ll be swimming through turquoise canyons and jumping of waterfalls

Beyond its exceptional wind and water conditions, Cabarete’s natural beauty is awe-inspiring. The town is blessed with stunning beaches, crystal-clear turquoise waters, and breathtaking sunsets. The golden sand and warm, inviting waters provide the perfect backdrop for windsport activities. As riders harness the power of the wind and glide across the water, they are treated to panoramic views of the Caribbean Sea and the picturesque coastline. The combination of the natural beauty and the thrill of windsports creates an unforgettable experience that keeps visitors coming back for more.

LEARN TO WINGSURF IN CABARETE

At Swell we have been offering wing foiling lessons to our clients since 2021 and have already had 100’s of clients into Wingfoiling enthusiasts. Wingfoiling is easy and quick to learn and when you are in the hands of a good instructor it is also a safe sport to learn. Many of our clients keep coming back to cabarete for more wingfoiling, since they find it hard to find a wingfoil destination anywhere in the world as good as our home town of Cabarete.

Cabarete’s vibrant beach culture is another factor that sets it apart as a windsport paradise. The town has a laid-back and welcoming atmosphere that embraces the windsport community. Along Cabarete Beach, there is a lively strip of beach bars, restaurants, and shops catering to the needs of windsport enthusiasts. The area buzzes with energy and excitement, with riders sharing their experiences, discussing gear, and celebrating their passion for the sport. The local community, including both residents and expatriates, is known for its warm hospitality and genuine love for windsports. This sense of community creates a supportive and inspiring environment that fosters growth and camaraderie among riders.

Furthermore, Cabarete is renowned for hosting world-class windsport events, attracting top athletes from around the globe. The town has been the venue for numerous prestigious competitions, including the Cabarete Kiteboarding World Cup and the Master of the Ocean contest, which combines kitesurfing, windsurfing, surfing, and stand-up paddleboarding. These events showcase the town’s commitment to windsports and bring together the best talent in the industry. For spectators, it is an opportunity to witness thrilling displays of skill and athleticism, further cementing Cabarete’s status as a windsport paradise.

CABARETE A WINDFOILING PARADISE

WHY YOU WILL LOVE A WINGFOILING HOLIDAY TO CABARETE

Steady tradewinds
Warm water
Warm air
Friendly Caribbean vibes
Easy to get to
Budget friendly
Good for all levels
Variety of other sports
Stunning scenery

ABOUT SWELL

At Swell we have been providing active surf and kitesurfing holidays in the Caribbean since 2009, in 2021 we added learn to wingfoil packages to our services.

BOUTIQUE SURF HOLIDAYS IN THE CARIBBEAN

Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding!

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May 29, 2023March 16, 2024

WHAT TO PACK FOR A SURF HOLIDAY

PACKING FOR YOUR NEXT SURF DESTINATION

If you have just booked your surf vacation or surf camp and are a novice or beginner surfer, it’s a little daunting knowing what you need to bring along, especially if you have never surfed before. Even if you already have surf experience, this can act as a good surf holiday checklist to make sure you’ve got everything covered before leaving home.

Some surf destinations will have a lot or some of the items we’ve listed below to save you lugging them from home, but often, especially if you are travelling to an island destination for your surf trip, some things can be quite costly on location so you will save some money if you include them in your surf camp packing list. How annoying it would be to wait to get to your surf camp only to find that an essential item you require on your surf vacation is not actually available or costs 3x more than at home!

Let’s start with the basics: What’s the weather like where you are going on your surf holiday?

Always check the water and air temperature where you are headed. If you are someone who feels the cold anyway (like, you’re always the one shivering when everyone else thinks it’s still quite warm out) be extra-prepared. The general advice is that if the water temperature is above 75ºF (24ºC) you won’t need a neoprene wetsuit, but if the temps are hovering between 70ºF (21ºC) and 75ºF (24ºC), you might feel more comfortable in what we call a ‘shorty’ (a neoprene wetsuit with short legs rather than a full wetsuit). Anything below 70ºF (21ºC) you definitely need a full wetsuit.

If you are coming to Swell between December and April and you do tend to feel the cold more, bring a shorty, a 1mm (or 2mm if you are extra-shivery) neoprene body suit as our water temperatures hover around 23/24ºC during those months. You definitely don’t need one between May and November when water temps are more like 28ºC/29ºC.

What do you need to wear when surfing?

This is one of those most common questions we get in our inbox at Swell. As a beginner surfer, your experience of surfers so far is probably only in magazines or movies; bronzed dudes in surf shorts and gorgeous tanned chicks in bikinis. Well, (and hopefully this news won’t disappoint you), lots of surfers don’t look at all like that. In fact, now we know so much more about the damage the sun does to our skin, most surfers over 30 are choosing to cover up.

TIP: It’s a good idea when packing your hand luggage to pack some essential items should your larger bags be delayed. Toothbrush and paste, travel-sized sunscreen, a spare T-shirt or two, underwear and something to swim in the ocean will all help you get through the first 24 hours should your bags not arrive with you.

Here’s what we recommend bringing to wear in the water during your surf vacation:

A surf cap: I wear an FCS surf cap with straps that come around your ears and fasten beneath the chin. Mine has an all-around brim like the one shown in the photo below and offers me excellent sun protection on my face.

One of the reasons why we recommend a hat is because however well you put sunscreen on your face, you inevitably wipe your eyes and cheeks each time you fall off the surfboard and the protection your sunscreen offers inevitably wanes

Long leggings. Surf leggings will protect you from rashes that the rough surface beginner surfboards have for grip. They will also protect your legs from being burned by the sun. I wear ones from Speedo, but they are also available from many other brands.

A one-piece swimsuit, or a bikini?

It’s really your preference. We get it that you probably want to get a tan on your surf holiday and do feel free to wear just a bikini and sunscreen whilst you are surfing if you are not having lessons with us. We do recommend a one-piece suit to avoid losing one or more essential parts of a bikini during a wipeout. As someone who once lost the bottom part of a bikini entirely once during a shore break wipeout in Barbados (you know, the ones we regularly see on Kookslams’ Instagram feed) a one-piece is a much safer bet. We don’t have any shore break in the Dominican Republic where we surf by the way.

A ‘Rashguard’ or ‘Lycra’

This is a top that you wear over your bikini or one-piece to protect you from the sun (and from rashes on your arms whilst paddling). The best ones are made with a fabric that is already Factor-50 sun-protection guaranteed, i.e. when you wear one, you don’t need sunscreen beneath. We strongly recommend the use of them whilst you surf and at Swell they are compulsory during lessons (but we provide them for you!). If you are not coming to us for your surf camp vacation, then check with your host whether they provide them for you, or if you have to buy your own. Ideally, they are tight-fitting as it’s easier to paddle without ‘flapping’ fabric around you. Our advice is to buy genuine ones from good, recognised brands like Quicksilver, Ripcurl, ONeill etc. as they will last much longer and offer genuine sun protection. The cheaper ones tend to be faked brands and the fabric stretches quickly, breaking up the surface and destroying the sun protection offered.

Surf or reef booties

Surf or reef booties are not necessary if you are surfing on sand (a beach break for example), but as most waves occur when a wave that has travelled across the ocean hits a reef protecting the shore, reef booties will help protect your feet from either sharper edges of rock or corals, or from things like sea urchins that have a nasty spine. We recommend a split-toe bootie like the one below from Quicksliver. 2mm is ideal. 1mm is not quite thick enough to repel the urchin’s spine and 3mm booties will then be a bit too stiff to surf in easily; that’s why we say 2mm is ideal.Sunscreen/Zinc.

Apart from your surfwear, the next item to bring on your surf vacation should be good quality sunscreen (assuming you are going to surf somewhere warm and sunny, like the Dominican Republic).

Sunscreens come in all levels of protection and whilst many purport to be waterproof, they often are not. Check the reviews of sunscreens and try and buy one that is manufactured for watersports rather than for someone who wants to tan and wade or swim gently in the sea. There’s a big difference (note our earlier comments about rubbing your eyes). We really like the Ambre Solaire Kids Factor 50 – not the spray, but the cream. I also use (on my face) Sunzapper Ultra because I find it can last me a full 2 to 3 hours in the water whilst surfing. Best of all, neither of these brands contains oxybenzone, a chemical that is known to damage coral reefs. A little pot of reef-friendly Zinc cream is also a good addition to pop in your bag – Zinc stays on even better than suncreams and is great for extra protection from sunburned lips.

A travel towel. The best ones are super lightweight travel towels made of microfiber, perfect for chucking into a backpack. And they dry quickly, usually just a few minutes in the sun is enough, so your bag won’t get soggy and heavy. They’re also great to sit on if your driver wants to keep the seats of their vehicle dry and as sand free as possible whilst you are driving back and forth to the beach. I always use mine to sit on, on my little scooter when I’ve finished surfing. It prevents me from sliding around on the seat whilst driving in wet clothes.

A changing poncho. These are towelling ‘mini-tents’ that you can put over your body whilst you change beneath, away from prying eyes. They are great, if not essential if you plan to change into ‘normal’ clothes straight after surfing and there is no changing room to hand.

An essentials medical kit. Whilst of course, we hope that you won’t have any injuries (thankfully it’s rare for people to get injured whilst surfing), inevitably at some stage during your surfing journey, you will have a scrape or a bump, so be prepared. We have our own medical kit at Swell, but nevertheless, travelling with your own little medical kit is smart. It can be small and really practical and should contain the following:

- Iodine solution (for cleaning up a cut or scratch)
- Cotton wool buds and cotton wool balls
- Lint for dressing
- Quality waterproof plasters
- Emergency wound closures, like Micromend or Sterostrip
- A sharp needle for removing foreign objects from your feet or other parts of the body.
- Paracetamol, Ibuprofen and also a small tube (or tablets) of a product containing Aclovir. Aclovir is a cold sore remedy essential if you are unlucky enough to get those from too much sun exposure (it’s very common). Quick use of Aclovir can stop a cold sore before it breaks out.
- An antibiotic powder or cream (for putting directly onto wounds).

That’s it, a small but really useful medical kit for surfers.

Surfing essentials

For beginner surfers, if you are travelling to a surf camp like Swell, usually, all the things listed below are automatically provided by your host teaching you to surf so you don’t need to bring any on your surf holiday. But, if you are not attending a surf camp, your host does not provide them, or you are surfing independently, here’s the list of surfboard/surfing-related items you would need to bring or buy at your destination:

A Surfboard: Do check the surf forecast to see if the surfboard you intend to bring is suitable for the expected surf conditions and ask for local advice if you are unsure. It can be better to rent so that you can change up your board depending on the conditions. Surfboards often get damaged in transit and are usually at least $100 USD each way on flights, so renting is often a smarter idea.

A Surfboard leash (and a spare one)

Surfboard fin set (don’t ever travel with your fins installed on your surfboard – always take them out and put them in a sleeve inside your surfboard bag).

Fin key (for putting in and taking the fins out)

Surfboard wax

Ding repair kit and/or an instant repair tape like Phix Doctor marine grade tape

Reusable water bottle. At Swell, we insist all our clients bring a reusable water bottle on their surf vacation. There’s no excuse now for using or buying plastic water bottles if there is a water supply that you can refill from. As you enter the surfing world, you will likely see first-hand the amount of plastic in our oceans 🙁

Travel insurance. I cannot tell you how many times we see in the surfing destinations we’ve lived in, a GO FUND ME page that has been set up for someone who has had an accident either surfing or more often, travelling around on a scooter for example but has no travel insurance to pay for their treatment. As a result, they are reduced to begging for help. Medical care is not usually free in any country in the World and it’s incredibly unwise to travel without an insurance policy in place. These policies are comparatively cheap to obtain and usually give a very high level of coverage for emergencies, including repatriation to your home country in case of anything really serious. These policies will also help you if you have delays or cancellations of your flights, lose items or have items stolen. Please, don’t be one of those people who think, ‘I’ll be ok’, because you just might not be: Spend the extra $50 to $100 USD to protect yourself. Use Google or your preferred search engine to search for ‘trip insurance’ ‘travel insurance’ or ‘vacation insurance’. Make sure that the policy you choose covers water sports (or doesn’t have exclusions for ‘extreme sports’ as surfing is sometimes classified). It’s a good idea to buy an annual policy if you are going to be making more than one trip in a calendar year.

Adaptors and chargers; For your adaptor, check the socket type of the destination you are headed to, or if you are not sure, buy one of the more expensive multi-socket adaptors that cover all socket types. Don’t forget your ‘phone charger!

Tip

Check your data roaming policy from your ‘phone service provider. Does their data roaming cover where you are headed without incurring lots of extra fees? If their charges are going to be excessive, buy a local sim card as soon as you arrive at your destination: They are often sold in airport arrival areas. Using a local number can save you a fortune on roaming charges. Remember that apps like WhatsApp will still work even if you have a new SIM card with a different number in your ‘phone (just select ‘no’ if Whatsapp asks whether you wish to change the number registered to your Whatsapp account).

Final travel tips for your surf vacation

Check the validity of your passport before you book your vacation; when does it run out? How long will it take to renew, if necessary?
Check any visa requirements you might need for the country you are headed to. (Most nationals don’t need a visa for the Dominican Republic)
Check any compulsory or recommended immunisations you might need
Tell your bank you are travelling; most credit card providers have a travel advisory section where you can let them know it will be you using your card(s) in an unusual place. It will help prevent the rather embarrassing experience of not being able to pay for things!
If you are on medication, do you have enough for the length of time you will be away?

We think we’ve covered everything you need to bring on your surf vacation, but if you have any other tips we haven’t covered, do get in touch with us!

ABOUT SWELL SURF CAMP

At Swell we have been offering surf camps for beginners since 2009. We offer high-quality accommodation, tasty food and a social vibe for people of all ages. We offer surf lessons, kitesurfing lessons and Wingfoiling courses. Get in contact with Clare if you’d like to join Swell Surf camp

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May 26, 2023August 2, 2024

AM I TOO OLD TO LEARN TO SURF?

WHAT IS THE PERFECT AGE TOO LEARN TO SURF?

Or: Am I too old to learn to surf?

This question appears so often in my inbox, it seems to have a permanent place there. “Am I too old to start surfing? Will I fit in?” The answer is a resounding yes! I was 58 myself and began surfing at 52. The only regret I have is not starting sooner. (Take a look at this picture of me riding the waves at 56!)

We receive countless emails from people in their 50s, 60s, and even over 70s wondering if they are too old to surf. At first glance, the sport might look like it’s dominated by younger people.

In 2009, my husband and I opened Swell Surf Camp in Cabarete on the North coast of the Dominican Republic. We encountered a surprise: many of our guests were older than we had expected. Our original target was a younger demographic, but we quickly adjusted our website as more experienced folks showed interest in learning to surf. At present, the average age of our guests is 40. This includes both people in their early thirties and vibrant individuals in their fifties. We are immensely proud to demonstrate that age is not a barrier to taking up surfing.

They say “70 is the new 50.” No matter your age, people are leading longer, active lives these days. I’m not a health expert at 58, but with 70 approaching and no major health issues in sight, I’ve embraced kiteboarding at 41 and recently took up wingfoiling at 58. Trust me, there’s always room for another water sport as long as you have the spirit for adventure!

(That’s me surfing 2 years ago, ago 56)

Key Takeaways

Age does not limit when you can start learning how to surf. Some individuals start their surfing journey later in their lives.
The sport improves balance, strength, and mental health.
Beginners should take it slow, seeking lessons from a professional instructor. They should also use a larger, more stable board.
Consulting a doctor is important if you have existing health concerns.
Becoming part of surf communities or groups offers support and helps with motivation.

AM I TOO OLD TO LEARN TO SURF?

Let’s be really honest here, it’s definitely a bit harder on the body learning to surf at 50, 60 or 70+ than it is when you are learning to surf at 30 years old. But with good basic preparation and realistic expectations, it’s absolutely possible.

And if you have a desire to do it, then the health benefits are extraordinary. In fact, surfing is one of the best all-around fitness activities you can possibly undertake. It generally has low impact, it’s good for cardio, good for muscular strength (and let’s face it as we get older, our muscles can really benefit from being used more rather than less), and perhaps most importantly, it’s really good for the soul. I’ve left many a bad mood on the beach when I enter the water. Surfing has a tendency to connect you to nature and forget about all the other stuff. I cannot even begin to describe the feeling when you catch your first wave, even a little white water ride, it’s incredible and trust me, if you are 70+ it will probably give you more of a thrill than if you were 25.

So if you are someone who wants to ask the question, ‘I am too old to learn to surf?’ let me answer that here and now: No, you are not too old to learn to surf. Neither are you too old to ‘fit in’ with the surfing crew. As I answer every client who sends that question my way if you have the desire, it’s enough: It already puts you in the ‘crew’ before you’ve ridden your first surfboard. And, just as these wonderful Australian ladies in the video Taking Off demonstrate so well, it changes lives and always for the better.

NEED MORE INSPIRATION FOR LEARNING TO SURF AT AN ‘OLDER’ AGE?
Have a look a the the beautiful video below.

Come and try it, regardless of your age. We look forward to teaching you how to surf and changing your life too! I’m on hand to answer any questions or doubts you might have about learning to surf as an ‘older’ person.

Clare, co-owner of Swell surf retreats

Sidenote: It’s not just surfing that you can learn later in life, I have also just started my first lessons in Wingfoiling, I will update you on that progress here too.

FAQ

Is there an age limit for learning to surf?

Absolutely not! Whether you’re in your twenties or well into your golden years, surfing is a thrilling activity that welcomes all ages. Surf lessons tailored to different skill levels, including those specifically designed for older beginners, can make the experience both safe and enjoyable.

What type of surfboard should I start with as a beginner?

For newcomers of any age, starting with longboards or funboards is ideal. These boards are larger and more stable than shortboards, making them easier to balance on while you learn the basics like paddling and standing up.

Can swimming skills improve my surfing ability?

Yes, strong swimming skills are crucial when surfing. Being comfortable performing butterfly strokes or breaststroke in open water increases safety and confidence at sea. It’s essential to be able to manage currents and maintain stamina while waiting for that perfect wave.

Are there health benefits for older adults who take up surfing?

Engaging in physical activities such as surfing can greatly benefit older adults by enhancing flexibility, improving cardiovascular health, and even helping bone strength which counters conditions like osteoporosis. Plus, the sheer joy of catching waves at a scenic spot like Santa Barbara can uplift spirits immensely!

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November 6, 2021July 5, 2024

LEARN TO SURF AT 50

LEARN TO SURF AT THE AGE OF 50?

If you are over 50 and considering learning to surf, you might be concerned that you’re too late to the game.

The fact that you will struggle to master the necessary skills, that you will appear foolish, and that all of the other younger, fitter surfers would laugh at your inexperience and slowness and ignore you, are all reasonable concerns.

This, however, is not the case.

LEARNING TO SURF AT AN ‘OLDER’ AGE

Is it possible to learn to surf at the age of 50? Or Older?
Yes, as long as you have a reasonable level of physical fitness and flexibility. Learning to surf is primarily a matter of persistence, so if you’re ready to keep trying, you can learn to surf at that age.

Consider signing up for a beginner’s surf lesson, getting in shape, improving your swimming skills, selecting the perfect surfboard, and avoiding comparing yourself to others if you’re over 50 and want to learn to surf. You’ll be out there enjoying those waves before you know it!

Surfing has no age restrictions, and it’s never too late to start (even if you’re past 50!)

SURFING IS A GREAT WAY TO:

Keep in shape,
Improve your mood,
Push yourself,
Feel younger for longer.
Meet new people

This comprehensive guide will help you learn to surf at 50. It has been compiled to answer your questions and provide support along the process. I’ll go over some of the advantages of this enjoyable outdoor activity and provide a step-by-step tutorial to get you started.

Tips on how to learn to surf aged 50 years or older.

1. WORK ON YOUR FITNESS

Surfing is physically hard at any age, but especially so as you become older.

You’ll need to use your entire body to manage your weight as you paddle out, pop up on your board, and ride those waves. You’ll also be out for extended periods, so you’ll need plenty of stamina to be safe.

As a result, you should begin by increasing your physical activity and improving your fitness. The more physically fit you are, the easier it will be to learn to surf.

To be clear, you don’t need to be in marathon shape when you’re initially learning, but every little bit helps. Here are some suggestions:

Improve your cardiovascular fitness. Take long walks, begin running, ride your bike, or even run around with your children.

Put a premium on functional strength. If you want to keep control, you’ll need good core strength and good arm power for paddling.

Keep in mind to stretch. Stretching, flexibility, and balance should be part of your daily routine to avoid injury and improve your surfing skills.

Most of these surfing workouts may be done from the convenience of your own home. Simply go to YouTube, and you’ll find a plethora of online workouts that will help you get in shape quickly.
Read this article on surf fitness to get started.

2. TAKE SURF LESSON

While you can certainly teach yourself to surf, it’s so much easier and progress a lot quicker when you use the help of a local surf school or surf camp.

For beginners aged 50 and up, these can be invaluable because they give you confidence in your developing talents while also assisting you in improving your technique. You’ll also learn the proper surf ethics and gain a deeper understanding of the water.

3. IMPROVE YOUR SWIMMING ABILITIES.

If you don’t know how to swim, turn off your computer right now and enrol in some swimming classes. Seriously! If you’re not a great swimmer, there’s no way you’ll be able to stay safe in the ocean.

It is essential to keep in mind that the water is a massive force.

Because waves and currents can be powerful, and sea conditions can change in the blink of an eye, putting you in danger, knowing how to swim is essential. You must be capable enough to look after yourself and get to safety.

Because you’ll be starting in relatively shallow water, you don’t need to be a particularly great swimmer to begin. It is, nevertheless, necessary if you wish to proceed beyond the beginning stage.

Swimming in the ocean as much as possible will help you become a better swimmer. This will provide more authentic conditions than simply going to your local pool, and it will give you more confidence in ‘wild swimming.’

4. SELECT THE APPROPRIATE BOARD FOR LEARNING TO SURF

When you first begin, make sure you select the appropriate surfboard for a beginner like yourself.

Look for longer, thicker, and wider boards because they provide the most stability and make learning easier. Surfing beyond 40 or 50 is best learned on larger boards like 9 feet + beginner soft top surfboards. More info on beginner surfboards is detailed in this article.

Avoid smaller boards as much as possible; they are more difficult to manage and can lower your confidence when you first begin. Your local surf shop can assist you in determining the suitable size and shape of a surfboard for your needs and abilities.

5. DON’T MAKE COMPARISONS TO OTHER PEOPLE

I know it is easy to say so rather than act, but you must avoid comparing your surfing abilities to others.

So, what if you’re in a group surf session and someone in your class can show there in 5 minutes, but you’re still having trouble an hour later? Maybe he or she has already learned to surf and is just brushing up on their skills. Perhaps they’re naturally sporty, whereas you’ve spent the last few years lazing on the couch.

Everyone is on their own individual path.

If you want to feel proud of yourself instead of comparing yourself to others, remember that you came up and took the risk of learning to surf at a time when many others would not.

Concentrate on your own game, be proud of your drive and dedication, and work hard to reap the rewards.

If you haven’t already, take benefit of the opportunity to learn to surf. You’ll notice a variety of mental and physical health benefits as soon as you begin.

What are the advantages of learning to surf at the age of 50+?

Learning to surf will change your life for the better, especially if you are over 50 years old. Check out below a few of the reasons behind this:

1. Surfing is a terrific way to stay in shape while having a good time and no more sweating it out for hours on machines in a dark, dingy gym! You’ll be outside, feeling the rush, inhaling in the fresh air while also getting in shape. Awesome.

2. Surfing is a fantastic cardio workout. All of that paddling, popping up, and riding will get your blood pumping, your heart pumping, and your body in terrific form.

3. Surfing is a fantastic chance to meet new people. When you’re over 50, it’s more difficult to expand your social group. On the other hand, Surfing makes you part of a close-knit group that will keep an eye on you and is there for you when you need it.

4. Surfing aids in the prevention of aches and pains. You will become stronger overall, your joints will become less achy, and you will become more flexible if you engage in regular exercise such as surfing. If you have to sit at your desk all day or have been groaning as you stand up recently, this is the perfect remedy!

5. Surfing is excellent for improving your coordination. When you learn to surf, you’ll notice a significant improvement in your motor skills. If you participate in other sports, this will pay off handsomely and help you age more gracefully.

6. Surfing is a fantastic way to improve your mood. All of that natural daylight exposure, fresh air, exercise, and community spirit will get your endorphins flowing, raise your mood, and, according to some studies, may even help to alleviate your depression and stress.

Don’t let your age stop you from learning to surf. The average age of clients at Swell on a learn to surf holiday is 38. This means we get plenty of people in their 50’s and 60’s that join us.

Want an example:

Clare, one of the owners of Swell Surf Camp was never very interested in learning to surf, then at 52 decided it was time to get in the water and learn surfing. Now she goes for a surf with her surf friends whenever she has a chance. This is Clare 3 years after her first surf sessions, aged 56 (see the smile on her face)

So what are you waiting for? Sign up for surf lessons at your local surf beach, or join us in the warm and mellow waves of the Dominican Republic for a life-changing surf & yoga retreat holiday

ABOUT SWELL

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught 1000’s people the basics of surfing.

BOUTIQUE SURF HOLIDAYS IN THE CARIBEAN

Swell offers full surf packages holidays

Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding!

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October 23, 2021July 5, 2024

CATCHING UNBROKEN WAVES: POSITIONING IN SURFING

CATCHING UNBROKEN WAVES:

POSITIONING IN SURFING

Learn how to discover, catch, and stay on unbroken “green” waves by positioning yourself correctly in the line-up.

CATCH MORE WAVES BY SITTING IN THE RIGHT SPOT!

This article will provide you with a basic understanding of better position yourself to catch green waves. It covers the fundamentals of paddling into an unbroken wave and “sticking” on these “green waves” without nose-diving, passing over the wave, or becoming caught on top of it.

Keep in mind that this is one of the most difficult skills to master as a beginner surfer. Nothing can ever take the place of practice. The longer time you spend in the water and the more waves you attempt to catch, the better.

The theory presented in this article will supplement your practice and, in most cases, will speed up your progress and save you a lot of time and frustration.

CATCHING UNBROKEN WAVES

Positioning & where to sit

How to locate and position yourself to catch a long green wave:
1. Recognize the various stages of a wave

PHASE 1: SWELL LINES
It is only a bump in the road. At this point, catching this wave is impossible. This lump is merely a forewarning that a wave is on its way.

PHASE 2: UNBROKEN WAVE
This is the place to look for a “green wave.” This waveform is great for paddling because it is unbroken and has the right strength and steepness. You can’t catch at phase 1 because it isn’t steep enough, and phase 3 is too vertical for you to take off. ( better surfers with shortboards can take off here)

PHASE 3: BREAKING WAVE
The peak of the wave has arrived. On the flat water, the lip is already beginning to crash down. The wave is too big and steep to catch at this point, especially for inexperienced surfers.

PHASE 4: WHITE WATER
The wave has broken and has turned into a whitewater wave.

Real-world example of the different phases of waves

Prepare for a Green Wave by putting yourself in the right place.

Sit around 4 to 5 meters (15 feet) away from the majority of the waves.

Why?

The reason for this is that if you are waiting at a specific location where a large number of waves are breaking, the moment you turn around and paddle for a wave, you will either be catching a white water wave that has already broken, or you will be getting the wave crashing on top of you.

A good spot to take off, not too mellow / not too steep.

What is the status of the more experienced surfers? They probably know more about where to sit in line than you do.

This does not imply that you should sit next to them and wait for their waves. It’s merely a guide to help you figure out how far out you should paddle.
Where to sit is also variable on a couple of different aspects:

The paddle fitness of the surf (how fast can he/she paddle)
What kind of board the surfer is riding (longboards can catch ‘flatter’ waves more easily than shortboards.

Beginner surfers are frequently found sitting much further out from the wave than more experienced surfers. This doesn’t make much sense; either the waves aren’t breaking as far out that day, or they aren’t breaking at all.

In other words, if you see waves breaking a long distance away from where the expert surfers are sitting, this indicates that it is an “unusual” and larger set of waves (which you most likely do not want to catch as a beginner surfer!).

Look for lumps on the horizon. A “phase 1” wave that will transition into a “phase 2” wave roughly 3 to 5 meters behind you is what you’re searching for.
Choose a wave, turn around, and paddle for at least 8 hard strokes. You should paddle hard enough to keep up with the wave’s pace as it transitions from “Phase 1” to “phase 2.”

ADDITIONAL TIPS FOR CATCHING MORE WAVES IN SURFING

KEEP LOOKING
When paddling for a wave, look behind your shoulder. Taking a couple of glances behind you is the only way to determine whether you need to paddle more, paddle less, or even stop paddling for a short period, depending on the shape of the wave.

It also prevents you from “dropping in” on individuals (for further information on what this means, see “Surf Ethics”). If you glance behind you, you’ll be able to tell if the wave was too steep (phase 3), too weak (phase 1), or just right (phase 2), and hence why you failed or succeeded in catching an unbroken wave.

Many inexperienced surfers fail to look back at the wave and end up paddling incorrectly. They either get smashed by the wave or catch a white water wave. Without looking back and understanding what happened, you will never be able to learn from your mistakes.

A BIGGER BOARD MAKES A DIFFERENCE!
It will be easier to catch unbroken waves if you have a larger board.

PADDLE SPEED
Paddling fast enough to match the speed of a wave is the key to catching “green waves.” You will spring up and surf faster if you can “capture the momentum” of the wave. Green waves are easier to catch on big boards than on small boards because they paddle faster.

Because they move around a lot, better surfers catch more waves. If you notice a lump in the horizon, consider whether it is a larger wave that will break further out to sea or a smaller wave that will break closer to shore.

It will get easier to paddle around and position yourself to catch unbroken waves the more experience you gain in reading waves. The more proactive you are, the more likely you will be to catch waves. See “How to Read Waves” for additional information on wave reading.

Catch and “Stick” on a wave that isn’t broken.
White water waves differ from unbroken waves in the following ways:

The force of a whitewater wave pushes you forward. You might catch whitewater waves during your first sessions when you first start surfing. Because the momentum of the broken white water wave drives you forward, white water waves are very easy to catch.

Most whitewater waves may be caught without even paddling.

Gravity is the force that creates an unbroken “Green” water wave. The first thing you need to know about catching and “sticking” on green waves is that the white water does not “push” you ahead. Gravity is the force that allows you to enter the wave. You must imagine yourself paddling down a moving “slope.”

How to “stick” to the unbroken wave without getting swept away?
Long, forceful, and deep strokes should be used when paddling. This is especially critical when catching waves that aren’t broken.

When paddling, you must give everything you have, especially when you feel your surfboard’s tail rise: this is a crucial moment to “Stick” on it.

The way you stand on your surfboard is crucial. As we saw in the How to Paddle on a surfboard article, excellent paddling technique is achieved through precise paddle strokes and optimal body placement on the surfboard.

When your chest is exactly centred on the width of the surfboard, and you are at the correct height, you are in the correct position on the surfboard. Place your body high enough on the board so that the nose is about 3-6 centimetres (1-2 inches) out of the water while keeping your head up (imagining a soccer ball between your chin and the surfboard).

Your head and upper shoulders are likely to weigh 45 pounds (20 kilograms) or more! Consider how much of a difference it makes when you drop your head and bring it closer to the surfboard when you’re pulled up on a wave. This allows you to catch, stick, and descend the “slope” that is moving forward.

Many kids become accustomed to being pushed into unbroken waves by their trainers, which is beneficial for practice. When you’re pushed, however, you don’t have to lower your head to put weight on the front of your surfboard. If you’re disappointed because it’s difficult to catch green waves without the help of a surf coach, remember that shifting your weight towards the surfboard is the key to catching unbroken waves on your own.

It would help if you popped up at around 2/3 of the height of the wave. Once you feel your tail lift and you believe you have gained enough speed to continue gliding with the wave, give two final paddle strokes, place your hands on the board beside your pectoral muscles, curve your back, and jump!

VIDEO OF CATCHING UNBROKEN WAVES

ABOUT SWELL

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught 1000’s of people the basics of surfing with our beginner surf camps

BOUTIQUE SURF RETREAT HOLIDAYS

The Caribbean: On the North Coast of the Dominican Republic

Swell offers full surf packages holidays

Are you interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding!

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August 18, 2021July 2, 2024

GETTING FIT FOR A SURF HOLIDAY

GETTING FIT FOR A SURF HOLIDAY

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR SURF HOLIDAY

SURF FITNESS

Surfing is an incredibly demanding sport for both body and mind. Not only are you pushing yourself physically, but you have to concentrate and focus on reading the ocean at all times to catch the best waves. That’s why being in the know about surf-specific fitness can make all the difference between getting out the back nice and easy, or getting a big set on your head, rag-dolling all the way back to shore. With this surf blog, we hope to give you the tips that bring you that little bit closer to being physically fit to ace your next surf session.

SURF FITNESS GUIDE

This guide is aimed towards beginner surfers, weekend warriors and those whose sessions are few and far between. When learning to surf, the first few times when you come out of the water after a surf, you might not even be able to get your suit off because your arms are jelly from all the paddling. Sheer exhaustion, we’ve all been there!

If you’re planning a surf holiday or surf camp stay this summer, this article gives you the tools to physically prepare for it. We’ll talk about the main muscles used in the different actions and movements of surfing and explain how to train and stretch them for better surfing performance.

Fitness The Basics: Paddle, Pop-Up, Body Position

There are three main stages in the process of catching a wave. First is the paddle, an explosive movement with the arms. Next is the pop-up, using the upper body to lift ourselves enough to bring the legs into our stance position. And finally, once we are on the wave we use our legs, core and upper body to stabilise and create momentum on the wave-face (pumping) and to perform maneuvers.

Which Muscles Do We Use When Surfing?

It’s pretty safe to say that you use most of the muscles in your body when you surf, some more than others and some in different ways. The main muscle group we use when paddling is the upper back ones. This provides us with the power needed to accelerate up to a similar speed of the wave itself. It is usually only a few strokes on each arm before popping up. In other words, it is a strength and power move, which we can train to its fullest potential. Our shoulders are also used in the rotary motion of the move but generally only start to burn after a long paddle out, so endurance is the main factor for this set of muscles. The triceps get a good workout with duck diving and with the pop-up, as do the chest muscles. Again, the pop up is an explosive move so we can train our muscles to perform this more effectively. And finally, when we’re up and riding on the wave face, we use the core (in all planes) and legs for stabilisation and movement.

Training for surf fitness
Training to go on holiday… Really? Every season, we hear a few guests say something like: “I wish I came on this trip in better shape.”

The amount of preparation you want to do is up to you and depends on your current fitness level and your objectives for the surf retreat. We often have guests that really look forward to either progress their technique or surf 3 or 4 hours every day since they don’t have access to quality waves back home. Here are a few tips if you feel your fitness level could limit you on your next trip.

Surfing &/or Swimming
The best way to be physically ready for a surf trip is… to surf! Even though you run, ride a bike, go to the gym weekly, etc. You might not be training your body in the most effective way to prepare for a surf trip. A significant part of surfing is paddling. Even if the waves at home aren’t great, just getting out there for a paddle will train the muscles needed for paddling. Don’t have waves at home? See the paragraph below on swimming.

If you can’t surf at home, the second-best option is to go swimming at your local pool. In the last 4 to 6 weeks before your surf trip, try swimming at least twice per week. Don’t worry about your swimming speed. Try to find your rhythm and do laps for a total of 20 minutes or more if you can (stop between laps when needed). Very important: use the “freestyle” technique (also known as the “front crawl”).

Stretching &/or Yoga
Mobility is essential for surfing, for both performance and to limit the risk of injuries. Stretching poses that focus on your back, shoulders, arms, hamstrings and hips are often the most recommended. Guests over 40 often struggle with their pop-ups if their hips are too tight. Core strength is key for surfing and yoga can be a great way to build it, although it is not always for everyone.

The more you feel that you can move freely, the better. Especially for your hips (for pop-ups) and shoulders (for paddling).

Training & Cardio
Sit-ups, squats, burpees, push-ups… Those are basic exercises that will build core, shoulder, arm and leg strength and endurance. Training these muscles will help you catch more waves and surf for longer sessions. Every guest has their own fitness level and body type. You or a fitness coach that knows you personally will know what exercises you need to focus on most, how many sets, reps and rest suit you, etc. For cardio, you could consider going for a run or a bike ride.

According to the HHS, adults should aim to get 150 minutes to 300 minutes of moderate physical activity or 75 minutes to 150 minutes of vigorous-intensity aerobic physical activity a week. If you do not reach these targets, it would be a good idea to try to start training at least 4 weeks before your trip. The more significant improvement in strength or endurance you are looking for, the more time you will need (sometimes 12 weeks or more are preferable).

More ideas for training on our Magazine:

Nutrition
Eating healthy is obviously important and complementary to exercising if you either want to feel energized, lose fat or build muscle before your trip.

It’s about finding balance…
Surfing is a sport that requires both a good amount of strength and mobility. For example when you paddle hard to catch a wave or when you push up to pop up, you need shoulder and arm strength. You also need fluidity to be able to slide your legs under your chest during pop up, when you twist your body during carves, etc. It’s a good idea to aim for balance. If, for example, you go to the gym often and feel that you are quite strong but not very flexible, focus on mobility exercises. If you think you are already quite flexible, focus on strength conditioning.

ABOUT SWELL

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught 1000’s of people the basics of surfing.

Age? Well the average age of a Swell client is 39

Swell offer 2 exciting places for learn to surf holidays:

The Caribbean: On the North coast of the Dominican Republic

Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding…regardless of your age!

Our luxury surf coaching holidays have taught 1000’s of people the sport of surfing in a safe, fun and quick way.

If you like this article about learning to surf after 40 you might also like the following articles.

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June 1, 2021July 5, 2024

LEARNING TO FOIL WINGSURF

LEARNING TO FOIL WINGSURF

Unless you haven’t been paying attention to new water sports crazes, you’ve probably seen a huge increase in the number of people getting into foil boarding; whether it’s using a foil for surfing, kitesurfing, or the relatively new wing-foiling (covered in more detail below).

LEARNING TO FOIL / WINGSURF

WHAT IS A FOIL?

It was in Hawaii that the hydrofoil was first developed. The idea is to use a blade below the water to ‘lift’ the board you are using (whether it’s a SUP, kiteboard, or surfboard) clean out of the water. The board is attached to a mast which is attached to that blade. Once the blade lifts at a certain speed, the mast comes out of the water and then no part of the board is actually touching the water. We will talk about how foiling feels a little later in this article; the very reason for its existence is how that ride feels.

Early foil models were heavy, extremely difficult to use, and really quite dangerous. These hand-made foils were also very expensive. After several manufacturers came up with various foil models over the years, in around 2014, foil models had improved and started appearing in more numbers on local beaches. However, they were still too fast, generally unstable and very difficult to ride, as well as being expensive. Accidents were common and often resulted in nasty injuries.

The speed of design improvements has been impressive and the good news is that today, all manufacturers are building easy to use, less expensive, stable, fun foils which suit all kinds of surf/water conditions. They range from inexpensive plastic foils, through aluminium and fibreglass construction, all the way to the top-of-the-range carbon fibre foils.

Even better, many are of a modular design, meaning that you can interchange the various parts as your level of foiling improves.

HOW DOES IT FEEL TO FOIL COMPARED TO RIDING A NORMAL KITEBOARD OR SURFBOARD?

This question is rather like trying to describe how it feels the first time you ride a wave; it’s really hard to put it into words.

It’s like no other form of board riding you have ever undertaken before. The reason for this is that you are simply floating: Imagine gliding over a sea of soap suds where the suds keep you on top without sinking yet you can’t feel them beneath you. Your foil makes no sound at all as it carries you, there’s no slapping of water that you always get with a board in contact with water. It’s spookily quiet as you glide effortlessly through the water. People have described it as a magic carpet ride and I would have to agree.

Also, the momentum of foils and the way they travel through water means that you only need light winds for either kiting or wing-surfing. You can also travel at much faster speeds and turn further upwind or downwind than you can with a regular twin-tip kiteboard.

It’s really easy to see why kite foiling and wing-surfing are the fastest growing water sports.

WHAT MAKES LEARNING TO FOIL MORE DIFFICULT?

If you are used to riding a twin-tip kiteboard or a directional surfboard, you will know that you steer the board using your heels and toes. Only two things to remember; heels will dig in to ride upwind and toes will turn the board downwind. Let’s refer to this as the ‘roll.’

With a foil, there are three things to master. You’ve got the toe and heel operation (the roll) but you have also got a front and back axis (the pitch) to deal with. Getting the ‘pitch’ of the foil right is essential to keep the board out of the water. Too much leaning back and the foil will literally fly out of the water. Too much pressure forward and the foil will sink the board. Foils are sensitive and require only a tiny movement of your body forward or backward to completely change momentum.

The roll is also harder to come to terms with on a foil. If you can imagine the roll on a regular board occurs immediately beneath your feet and the adjustment you make results in an instant turn. With a foil, the blade is well beneath you, anything from 40cm to 110cm (depending on the length of the foil’s mast). This means that the adjustment required is larger and the turn takes longer to effect.

Then we have to look at how weird it feels to be hovering above the water. Everything you have ever learned with kiteboarding or wind-surfing is about the board being in direct contact with the ocean. The height you can achieve with a foil is at once exhilarating but it’s also scary. No matter how good you are as a kiteboarder, surfer, or windsurfer, learning to foil will make you feel like a noob all over again. It sounds like a bit of a nightmare, doesn’t it? But the reward, the reward………..your soap-suddy, dreamy cruise through the air will make all the faceplants and aching thighs well worth it. It’s just a learning curve you must go through to get to the pot of gold.

HOW DO I LEARN FOILING?

There are several different ways to learn to foil. If you already kitesurf well, then you can pick up foiling using your kite skills to generate the power required. If you are an accomplished windsurfer, then moving to wing-foiling will not be too big a step up.

If you don’t kitesurf, surf, or wind-surf already, then your options are as follows: 1. Learn to kitesurf first using a regular twin tip (this might sound difficult but actually, the learning curve with kiting is much faster than with regular surfing and progress can be rapid. 2. Learn to wing-foil (see below for our course options at Swell). The great thing about using the wing to start foiling is that control of the wing is easier and even faster to master than control of the kite. 3. Use a boat-tow to start. However, whilst using a boat to tow you might seem like a good option, in reality, it’s cheating somewhat and with this method, you won’t utilize some of the balance skills which are vital for foil control once a boat is not towing you. Another problem with a boat tow is that the boat tends to do the steering for you, so you are not learning that skill either. Lastly, unless your boat pilot is well-versed with foiling themselves, they won’t know the correct speed to keep you above the water and safe.

Whichever method you choose, you should begin your water experience with a short mast on the foil (shorter = easier). The better you get, the longer you want your mast to be. You will also use a bigger board at the beginning to give you as much stability as possible.

WINGSURF FOILING; A PERFECT INTRODUCTION TO FOILING WITH NO PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE

As we’ve mentioned above, wingsurf-foiling is an ideal choice if you don’t already kitesurf and you want to get straight into riding a foil. Wingsurfing is growing quickly in popularity and it’s easy to see why.

Unlike a kite, the hand-held wing is much simpler and safer to use. There are no long lines to put out, no potentially dangerous launch to master, no risk of crashing the kite and not being able to relaunch it. The equipment is easy to put together and the wing is quickly inflated. A leash attaches the wing to the rider in case of falls and handles are positioned along the center of the wing to guide it; it’s very light in the hand. In fact, there are no discernible disadvantages to using a wing to foil.

Wings are sold in various sizes to suit wind conditions and rider size. A good wing-foiling school will have the correct size of the wing for your lessons. You will be able to wing-foil in just 12 knots of wind. All you have to do is inflate the lightweight wing and enter the water.

WHERE CAN I LEARN TO WINGSURF FOIL

SWELL LEARN TO WING FOIL COURSE

Cabarete, Dominican Republic, is already a world-renowned kite surfing destination, with steady side-on trade winds and warm Caribbean water: Now foiling is taking over as the fastest growing sport. You can come and stay with us at Swell and take a 10-hour foiling course for $795 USD (one person) or $636 USD each if two guests are learning at the same time.

More info on our learn to wingsurf course can be found here and the package pricing for learning to foil & wingsurf are here

WING FOILING IN CABARETE

Cabarete on the North coast of the Dominican Republic is one of the best wing foiling spots in the world!

Great conditions for Wing foilers of all levels

ABOUT SWELL

We are a purpose-built retreat for people that are looking for an active water sports holiday. We offer learn to surf, kitesurf and wingsurf packages for clients staying with Swell

More info about learning wingfoiling, or the wingfoil packages we offer

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February 11, 2021July 5, 2024

WHAT SURFING DOES TO YOUR HEALTH

WHY SURFING (AND LEARNING TO SURF) IS ONE OF THE BEST CHOICES FOR A HEALTHY & HAPPY LIFE.

SURF HEALTH

The great thing about surfing is that it’s approachable for people of all ages and all walks of life. Surfing is awesome and a life-changing activity that only requires courage to fly in the ocean. The best part about surfing is that it changes the entire lifestyle by adding thrill and adventure. Below, we highlight certain aspects to show why surfing is the best way to stay in shape.

ALL IN ONE WORKOUT

At first, it’s obvious that surfing is a full-body workout. Your every move on the water requires a combination of physical strength, stamina, and cardio. But don’t worry if you are weak at one thing: it’s not a prior requirement to get started. The only thing that it requires is the energy and motivation inside your heart to glide along the ocean waves.

There is not any specific level of skill and experience to start surfing. Going from paddling to popping up on your surfboard will cardiovascular and upper body strength, and keeping yourself stable on the board will work your legs and core. By following these steps, you are utilizing the entire body while having the time of your life.

Besides physical fitness and impressive anaerobic effects, this sport also brings strength in some other life aspects:

STRESS RELIEF

Spending time with nature, enjoying precious moments, and bringing physical strength to use, combinedly to help to reduce strength and anxiety levels. Regular surfing makes you feel similar to morphine. It can produce an ecstatic feel and an optimistic stance on life.

IMPROVED SLEEP

It’s a well-known fact that exercise decreases sleep complaints, especially sleep disorders, and their effects are pretty much similar to sleeping pills. After paddling for a few hours and riding on the water swells, your body is ready for a healing slumber.

INCREASED VITAMIN D

Exposure to the sun along with a healthy workout causes the increased production of Vitamin D inside your body that helps in calcium absorption, improved body structure, and regulation of body functions.

MIND FULLNESS

Surfing helps you in developing your focus by putting everything else aside. Your concentration is on your body language to keep yourself on the board, merge your heartbeat with the surf, and fly in the ocean.

BUILDING BALANCE:

Exercising balance in every sphere of life is key to success. Surfing well requires maintaining balance on the board and keep enjoying a healthy and vigorous ride. Your balanced coordination on the board prevents you from serious injuries. Surfing requires a good balance, and keep practising the sport helps you in developing the skill.

Regular surfing strengthens your every day’s fitness and helps you in protecting against common age-related somatic issues like arthritis, tendonitis, and many more.

Many surfers also refer to practice some other exercises, such as pilates and yoga, to improve their core strength, flexibility, and balance and enhance their surfing abilities.

“Core” itself points out the vitality of muscles, including posture to upper-back and lower-back strength.

THE POWER OF PASSION

Perhaps the most impactful benefit of surfing lies in the connection you make to the sport. Your dedication to the sport can give a boost to your overall physical health.

Once a surfer starts feeling less like hard work, the training becomes a piece of enjoyment. Once you are passionate and ambitious for the sport, you try to work out regularly to stay in shape and keep training to become even better.

Connecting to an activity that provides you with a source of enjoyment, along with the workout, makes you feel easier than regular exercise at the gym. A study published in Marketing Letters highlighted that enjoying such activity brings more comfort and relaxation to you.

The reason behind this is that the part of fun diverts your attention from the required effort.

Moreover, it also reduces the tendency to overeat or have extra calories after the training session.

A LIFETIME OF FITNESS

It is not a one-time activity to put yourself in shape. If you are passionate and ambitious about something, you carry it throughout your life and put all your efforts to maintain it. Especially, physical fitness is an ongoing practice that prolongs your shape and strength. Besides physical health, engaging in activity like surfing can also bring a more peaceful mind to you as well.

Even if you don’t surf regularly, the time you spent on the waves has long-lasting effects.

If you feel bored with your workout routine and ready to switch it with a healthy activity?

Surfing might be the best alternative, and one of your favourite hobbies as well.

BALANCE

Balance is a key to surf on the waves. Once you lost your balance, the whole drama is over, and it might cause an injury to you. The best way to learn about balancing is riding as much as you can.

However, mostly the rides aren’t enough long to get yourself trained because all water swells don’t convert into a wave. Performing lunges and squats can strengthen the glutes and leg muscles, which ultimately helps you to maintain your balance on the board.

If you don’t have a balance board, you can achieve it by closing your eyes and standing at one leg for up to 30 seconds and repeating it again and again. Like other skills, it requires your patience and consistency, so don’t lose it.

DIGITAL DETOX
Another great health benefit of surfing is that (at least for now) it also means you are completely disconnected from digital distractions like phones, computers, TV and social media. When you are out in the water it’s just you, your fellow surfers and the elements for you to enjoy.
At times I have gone out for a 2-hour surf session, barely caught any waves, and still come back feeling happy and fulfilled. Enjoyed a sunrise view, did my paddle exercise and had no distractions on my mind.

SURF FITNESS EXCERSIZES

MAXIMIZE YOUR SURF HEALTH

The following are great examples for people that want to get surf fit before their holiday or to keep doing at home, theses exercises will greatly improve your surf sessions.

CORE: SIDE PLANK WITH REACH THROUGH

The strength of core muscles is responsible to stabilize your torso to help you in balancing, paddling, and rotation through turns.

The side plank can easily strengthen the layers of your obliques, complying with the rotational component. Lay down on your side, bend your knees, and prop up your upper body on your elbow.

Raise off your hips by holding for 8-10 seconds, give a rest for 10 seconds, and do 1-3 sets of 12-15 reps at each side.

LEG STRENGTH: SINGLE LEG SQUATS
Stronger legs help you in maintaining balance and staying on board for a long time. Whether you are a beginner or an expert, single-leg squats will help you in developing the core and leg strength to paddle at your best and keep enjoying for a long time.

Stand on one foot and lift the other one about 5-7 inches off the ground. Align the knee of the standing foot with the middle toe, lowering down by bending your knee at 45 degrees. You should keep your back straight and head aligned with the shoulders.

Hold for 3-5 seconds in the lowest position and do 3 sets of 5-7 reps on each leg. With time and practice, you can increase the depth of the squats to make it challenging.

PRE-SURF WARM-UP: DEEP SQUAT WITH OVERHEAD REACH
Before you start surfing, you need a quick warm-up to give relaxation to your hips and shoulders and set them ready for paddling.

For this purpose, put your feet apart a little wider than the shoulder width. You can slightly turn out your toes to release the tension.

Keep your gaze forward and your torso straight, squat down and touch the ground with both hands for a while, then stand back up. Now, circle your arms and raise them towards the sky.

Repeat this 10-15 times to warm up yourself for the paddling.

SURF PADDLE FITNESS

A surf session is more paddling than surfing on the waves with a ratio of 95% to 5% . If you have not trained your paddling muscles, then your session will be quite short. You can strengthen your paddling muscles with a simple pool workout. This will considerably add to your strength and power.

WARM-UP:
Spend 5-7 minutes on mixed strokes swimming, such as freestyle stroke, butterfly stroke, breaststroke, backstroke, and sidestroke.

MAIN SET:
2 x 100 yards at an energetic pace with ease and comfort.
3 x 50 yards at a relatively faster pace than the previous one, following with the set of 10 pushups after every 50-yards.
4 x 50 yards at your maximum power.

Relax for 2 minutes after every set, and rest for 15-20 seconds after every round.

BREATH CONTROL

Add some underwater swimming, 3-5 sets. Also, consider swimming at a high pace with all your power for at least one round. When getting near the wall, turn quickly and hold your breath under the water as long as you can. This is the perfect simulation for paddling and duck diving.

Besides breath control, it also mentally prepares for such a situation where someone needs to stay underwater.

To make sure your safety, try to practice it with your friend or a person around. The more important is that you remain calm and relaxed, especially when you need air at the peak.

To sum it up, we think learning to surf is one of the best long terms investments you can make for your mental as well as physical health. The fact that it is great fun and it gives you an incentive to travel to exotic place around the world to surf is an added bonus.

Interested in learn surfing in the warm Caribbean waters of the Dominican Republic? At Swell we offer week-long Learn to Surf & Yoga holidays for adults.

Send us a message today, we guarantee to get you up and riding.

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December 18, 2020August 22, 2025

HOW TO PADDLE ON A SURFBOARD

SURF TECHNIQUE: HOW TO PADDLE ON A SURFBOARD

The Proper Paddle Technique Explained

Paddling is arguably the most important aspect of surfing. In fact, we probably spend 90% of our time in the water on our stomachs paddling, not on our feet riding waves. So, whether you are you a beginner surfer who can’t seem to figure out a natural paddle technique, or you’re an intermediate or an advanced surfer who always seems to run out of steam on tough paddle outs, improving your paddle technique will ensure you have a better time in the water.

Either way, this article ‘how to paddle on a surfboard‘ is for you. Learn the proper technique that will have you gliding, streamlined on top of the water’s surface, and save your shoulders from that dreaded burnout pain. Whether you’re paddling out right in front of our Caribbean surf camp, or your surfing at home, these tips will help get you to the lineup as quickly as possible, fresh, and ready surf.

HOW TO PADDLE ON A SURFBOARD

START WITH A PROPER WARMUP

Paddling can be a bit of a workout, so you should warm up accordingly. Either when you hit the sand, or before you head out of the surf camp. When you paddle, you engage your shoulders and upper back, so be sure your warm-up activates both of those muscle groups.

Additionally, when you paddle, sit in the line-up, and ride waves, your hips are in a closed and locked position. It is crucial for longevity to perform exercises and stretches that will open your hips.

TIMING IS EVERYTHING, DON’T RUSH

When you arrive at the beach and strap your leash on, don’t just sprint into the water and start paddling madly. Relax, sit down, maybe stretch a bit, but most importantly watch the water.

What are the waves doing? How often are sets coming? Is there a channel to paddle out in? These are all things you must ask yourself and answer before entering the water. Wait for a lull between sets, and head into the water. Walk your board out until you’re in about chest deep water and then hop on and paddle.

POSITION YOURSELF ON THE BOARD CORRECTLY

Bad positioning plagues many beginner surfers, causing unnecessary drag and therefore hardship during their paddle out. If you’re too far towards the back of the board, the nose of your board will tilt up in the air, slowing your paddle.

Contrastingly, if you’re too far forward on your board, the nose of the board will sink underwater causing unnecessary drag. Find that sweet spot on your board, where the nose is gliding just above the surface, in calm water and remember where you are in reference to a marking on the board (like the logo).

ELONGATE YOUR REACH WITH EACH STROKE

Like swimming, when you learn how to paddle on a surfboard, your body should be as long and stretched out as possible.

With each stroke, you should extend your arm to its furthest possible length. Short and rapid movements will leave you exhausted, while long reaching strokes will send you forward, gliding efficiently over the surface of the water.

MOVE SLOWLY

Have you ever heard the phrase, “Slow is smooth, smooth is fast?” It applies directly to paddling. If you’re at a full sprint trying to paddle out, you won’t make it. You will tire long before you reach the lineup. Slow and smooth long reaching strokes will propel you quickly and efficiently.

DON’T OVERREACH ON THE FOLLOW-THROUGH

Surf Paddle training — Pool paddle training at Swell

When you’re executing the “pull” phase of your paddle stroke, be sure not to drag your hands too far back causing downward (not forward) momentum that will slow your paddle. To execute proper paddle technique, pull your stroke back to chest level, then lift your arm straight out of the water and repeat. When you pull further than your chest, the last portion of your stroke will push your board downward causing you to lose your momentum with each stroke.

KEEP YOUR ELBOWS HIGH

If you watch 11-time world champion surfer Kelly Slater paddle, you’ll notice how effortlessly he moves through the water. Part of his technique that stands out is that he consistently keeps his elbows high. From the moment Kelly brings his hands out of the water, to the moment he extends his reach, he leads with a high elbow. Keeping your elbows high will increase the effectiveness of each stoke, by keeping your hand and forearm in the vertical position from the start of the stroke. Essentially, it will allow you to move more quickly with less effort.

DRAG YOUR THUMBS

This tip goes hand in hand with the previous tip of keeping your elbows high. If you keep your elbows high, your hands will naturally be low. The idea here is to not bring your hands too far out of the water. When your hand exits the water, it should almost drag on the surface next to you as you bring it forward for the next stroke. By dragging, or nearly dragging, your thumbs in the water as you bring your hands forward for each stroke, you save energy by not engaging your traps. This will allow you to paddle harder for longer and prevent you from burning out due to soreness.

KEEP YOUR LEGS AND FEET IN CONTROL

While it may be instinctual to kick and try to propel yourself forward, it will actually slow you down. Instead, keep your feet together with your ankles side by side as you paddle. While kicking your feet might help shift your weight forward to actually catch a wave you’re paddling for, when you’re paddling out you do not want your weight too far forward. So, keep those feet still!

KEEP YOUR HEAD STILL

Again, if you watch world champ surfer Kelly Slater paddle, his head is still. This may seem inconsequential, but it has a tremendous effect on speed and efficiency in the water. Any swimmer will tell you that keeping your head still will keep your weight centred, not moving it from side to side, reducing drag and increasing speed. The same principle obviously applies to surfing. If your head moves to you right, your body will follow, taking you off your trajectory, digging your rail into the water, and ultimately slowing you down.

YOUR SPINE IS YOUR FULCRUM

Similarly, to swimming when you paddle, your spine acts as a fulcrum as your body moves ever so slightly from side to side with each stroke. This slight movement is not intentional, but a byproduct of the reach. To ensure you’re moving correctly, it is best to envision you are moving with a metal rod going through your body from head to tailbone. As stated previously, your head should stay still while you reach out each stroke.

SPOT THE WAVE AND REACT

The final step to a good paddle out is a proper duck dive or turtle roll. As you paddle out, constantly look out to sea for oncoming waves. When you spot a wave headed your direction, whether it is whitewater or a cresting wave, you’ll want to initiate your duck dive or turtle roll approximately 2 meters from the breaking wave.

VIDEO HOW TO PADDLE ON A SURFBOARD

Just like with any aspect of surfing, practice makes perfect. The best exercise for increased paddle strength and efficiency is paddling out to surf as often as possible. Now that you’ve learned how to perfect your paddle technique, take the next step in progression and learn to properly duck dive and turtle roll by checking out our blog on paddling out!

ESSENTIAL TIPS FOR IMPROVING SURF PADDLING TECHNIQUE

Mastering your paddling technique can significantly boost your performance on the waves. These tips will transform how you move through the water, making every paddle count for more speed and efficiency.

KEEP THE NOSE OF YOUR SURFBOARD SLIGHTLY OUT OF THE WATER

Elevating the surfboard’s front slightly above the water surface is a fundamental technique for any surfer. This beneficial method lowers friction and drag, permitting you to paddle with enhanced speed and negligible effort.

Ideally, keeping the board’s top portion 2-5 cm (approximately 1 or 2 inches) out of the water hits the sweet spot between maintaining buoyancy and improving control while paddling.

Lifting the board’s front just a tad can dramatically uplift your paddling efficiency, making wave traversing to reach the crest easier.

Creating this gentle lift demands core resilience and exact body positioning. Engaging your core stabilizes your torso, which consequently aids this mild altitude. Such precision improves your ability to move swiftly on water and furthers maneuverability when aligning yourself for incoming waves.

In addition, mastery of this skill contributes significantly to energy conservation during extended surf sessions or when confronted with tough conditions at sea.

Benefits of keeping the board’s nose elevated

Keeping your surfboard’s nose slightly elevated above the water substantially enhances paddling speed by lowering resistance. This strategic maneuver aids surfers to move over the water effectively, preserving energy for prolonged periods or swift actions.

By keeping this position, you marry your spine with your rib cage and scapula, which is instrumental for comfortable paddling experiences. Engaging in back-endurance exercises like swimming or pull-ups fortifies extensor chain muscles, boosting comprehensive performance.

Consistent stretching exercises ensure a full range of motion during each paddle stroke for upper body flexibility.

Inclusion of pulling exercises in training schedules cultivates strength and power necessary for effective paddling. These activities also boost stamina, enabling surfers to uphold the best form throughout their time in the water without rapid exhaustion.

Energy system training is crucial in this scenario; it grooms the body to utilize oxygen more successfully during strenuous physical activity like surfing. In turn, each paddle stroke becomes more forceful and effective, moving the surfboard ahead with lesser effort from the surfer.

Keeping the feet united better emphasizes this process by decreasing counteraction against water flow across the board’s features that are created particularly to smoothly cut through the ocean waves.

KEEP YOUR CHEST UP

Elevating the nose of your surfboard establishes a solid foundation for efficient paddling, but lifting your chest is similarly critical. This stance ensures right body positioning and balance on the board.

With your chest raised, you rely predominantly on your belly, making sure not to press down with your pectoral muscles. This position prevents potential injuries by aligning the spine and shoulders accurately and also involves the core muscles significantly.

The action of keeping an upright chest while paddling improves breathing capabilities — vital for endurance in long surf sessions. Superior breath control means you can paddle for extended periods without exhaustion, preserving energy for wave-catching.

Furthermore, this posture ameliorates your view of upcoming waves and intensifies vicinity awareness, necessary for both safety and strategic positioning in the water.

BENEFITS OF MAINTAINING AN UPRIGHT CHEST DURING PADDLING

Maintaining an upright chest while on your surfboard significantly improves balance and stability. This posture engages the core strength more effectively, leading to improved stroke mechanics.

Consequently, each paddle stroke is more powerful, enabling you to move through water with less exertion. This stance also decreases the likelihood of injury by reducing strain on the back and shoulders.

Keeping the chest up allows you to maintain a streamlined position in the water, which noticeably reduces drag and saves energy for extended surfing sessions.

This method enhances paddling efficiency and also fosters superior performance during surfing activities. With improved stability and fewer efforts from paddling, you’ll have more energy to improve techniques like exhaling during underwater diving, or executing sharp turns.

The secret is to use core muscles effectively, which leads to better control over the surfboard design under different wave conditions. The next suggestion is to concentrate on lower body positioning, specifically keeping your feet together while paddling, to further refine performance on the waves.

KEEP YOUR FEET TOGETHER

Keeping your feet together while you paddle on your surfboard might seem a minor detail, but it leads to significant improvements in your surfing technique. This position minimizes resistance in the water, allowing for more fluid movements.

It’s not just about reducing drag; this posture aids in maintaining stability and control over your board. With feet together, surfers find that their weight distribution becomes more balanced, enhancing both speed and directional control as they glide across the waves.

The smallest adjustments often lead to the most impactful enhancements in performance.

The benefits extend beyond immediate performance gains. Surfing with feet together reduces the risk of lower body injuries by preventing awkward strains during high-intensity paddling sessions.

For those long days at surf camp or an intense surf trip aiming to catch wave after wave, conserving energy becomes crucial. Adopting this seemingly simple habit can make a substantial difference in stamina preservation and injury prevention, ensuring you get the most out of every session on the water without taxing your body unnecessarily.

BENEFITS OF KEEPING FEET TOGETHER WHILE PADDLING

Keeping your feet together while paddling on a surfboard improves stability and control. This position aids in maintaining a centred body stance, essential for efficiently traversing the waves.

By reducing drag, it enables surfers to move through the water more smoothly, preserving energy for extended sessions in the ocean. This technique also significantly contributes to enhancing overall paddling performance by endorsing a streamlined body shape.

Such positioning is fundamental for generating more power and speed during each stroke.

The skill of a surfer to keep their feet together refines their technique and significantly aids their balance on the board. It prevents unnecessary movements that could lead to falls or loss of momentum when catching waves.

Enhancing this skill ensures that every paddle propels them nearer to an ideal takeaway point with less effort and higher efficiency. Progressing forward, perfecting this part of surfing will surely lead to more entertaining and successful rides across the ocean’s surface.

Importance of Practicing These Techniques

Perfecting these surf paddling techniques is vital for anyone aiming to hone their skills on the water. With regular practice, surfers will discover that they move through the ocean more effectively, and also relish a vastly improved surfing adventure.

Effective paddling approach

Mastering an effective paddling technique is crucial for catching waves and enhancing your surfing experience. By focusing on rail surfing, coaches help surfers understand how to manoeuvre their boards with precision.

The key lies in regular practice, especially on non-barreling waves which prepare surfers for more challenging conditions. This preparation boosts takeoff make rates notably in wave pools where timing and positioning are everything.

An effective paddling approach also involves a careful balance of energy conservation. Swimmers know the importance of keeping their feet together—a principle that holds true in surfing as well.

This technique minimizes drag, allowing you to glide through the water more efficiently with less effort on each stroke of your arms. As a result, you can spend more time out there doing what you love—surfing—and less time feeling fatigued or frustrated.

QUESTIONS

No results!

HOW CAN BEGINNERS IMPROVE THEIR PADDLING STAMINA?

You don’t need a gym membership—practice is best done in the water. But swimming laps, push-ups, and light cardio will help. When you surf, focus on steady, relaxed paddling rather than sprinting for every wave. Beginners often burn out fast because they paddle too frantically. Learn to conserve energy.
WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO CATCH WAVES WITH PADDLING?

Timing and commitment matter most. Spot the wave early, turn your board, and paddle hard with full strokes. Once you feel the wave lift your board, give 2–3 extra strong strokes before popping up. Many beginners stop paddling too soon—that’s why they miss the wave.
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO GET GOOD AT PADDLING?

If you surf regularly, your paddling improves within weeks. But getting truly efficient takes months of water time. Most new surfers underestimate how much paddling is involved—surfing is 90% paddling, 10% riding waves. At Swell Surf Camp, we accelerate the learning curve by correcting small mistakes early so you don’t waste energy.
WHAT COMMON PADDLING MISTAKES SHOULD NEW SURFERS AVOID?
- Lying too far forward (nose digs underwater) or too far back (board drags).
- Splashing with arms instead of pulling long strokes.
- Dragging feet in the water.
- Stopping paddling too early when catching a wave.
  Fixing these basics will instantly improve your wave count.
HOW DO I PADDLE FASTER ON A SURFBOARD WITHOUT GETTING TIRED?

Speed comes from technique, not brute force. Keep your body streamlined, pull deep strokes close to the board, and avoid splashing. Sprint only when you’re actually catching a wave—otherwise, maintain a steady pace to save energy. Most beginners waste power paddling too hard all the time.
SHOULD MY LEGS BE IN OR OUT OF THE WATER WHEN PADDLING?

Your legs should be relaxed and kept together on the board. Beginners often drag their feet, which slows them down. Keep your toes just out of the water, and if you need extra balance, you can lightly cross your ankles. This helps streamline your body and makes every stroke more effective.
IS PADDLING ON A SURFBOARD SIMILAR TO SWIMMING?

Yes and no. The motion looks like freestyle swimming, but your chest is lifted and your body is balanced on the board, so it feels different. The big mistake swimmers make is using short, shallow strokes. On a surfboard, you want long, strong pulls with full shoulder rotation.
HOW CAN I AVOID SHOULDER PAIN WHEN PADDLING A SURFBOARD?

Overuse and poor technique cause shoulder pain. Keep your elbows slightly bent and your strokes smooth, not jerky. Also, don’t let your hands cross over the center line of your board. At Swell, we also stress stretching before and after surfing—flexibility prevents injuries just as much as strength does.
HOW DO YOU PADDLE CORRECTLY ON A SURFBOARD?

The key is positioning. Lie flat, chest slightly raised, and keep your nose about 2–3 inches above the water. Cup your hands and pull deep, smooth strokes close to the board. Don’t “splash” with your arms—paddle from your shoulders with controlled, efficient movement.

This article on how to paddle on a surfboard is part of the surf technique series for beginners.
Other articles in this series are:

More info on external websites about how to paddle on a surfboard:

Paddle like Kelly Slater

Interested in learning all the essentials of surfing in an action packed water sport holiday in the Caribbean? Have a look at the surf holiday packages we offer, inlcluding our 1 week learn to surf holiday

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September 9, 2019September 9, 2019

10 REASONS TO VISIT CABARETE

10 Reasons to Visit Cabarete

Once a minute fishing village on the Dominican Republic’s northern shores, Cabarete now stands as the extreme sports capital of the island, if not the whole Caribbean. While Cabarete is home to some of the Dominican’s most pristine beaches, it is much more than just a scenic destination from which to take in coastal views. When most travelers think of the DR, they conjure images of massive all-inclusive resorts that stick out from the coastline like an unwanted growth. Cabarete does not fit this mold.

While Cabarete is not lacking in lodging options, there is wild and untamed land to explore, isolated beaches to stroll, and of course waves to surf. Keep reading to learn 10 reasons why you need to make Cabarete, Dominican Republic your next travel destination.

1. It’s superb for beginner surfers wanting to learn to surf.

Learning to surf is tough, and if you’re not on beginner-friendly waves, it can be near impossible to progress. Fortunately for beginner surfers, Cabarete is full of fun and forgiving waves that will have you up and riding in no time. Playa Encuentro, where our boutique surf resort is located, is home to a variety of surf breaks suitable for all levels. Beginner surfers will find a picturesque beach break with a friendly sand bottom, perfect for learning.

Our surf school spends the majority of their time at Bobos, a perfect learning wave. In addition to surfing in model learning conditions at Playa Encuentro, guests at Swell Surf Camp will have the opportunity to learn from the best surf instructors on the island and participate in surf theory classes.

2. There are serious surf breaks for advanced surfers

In addition to beginner-friendly breaks, Playa Encuentro is home to some serious reef breaks that attract intermediate and advanced surfers from all over the world. Destroyers, a racing, and hollow reef break is ideal for bodyboarders and expert only surfers who are looking for doggy door exit barrels. “The left” is exactly what it sounds like, a solid left-hand reef break that turns on during winter months and provides long, clean rides.

The main peak at Encuentro has a fun left and right-hander for intermediate and advanced surfers. Coco Pipe, right next to Bobos, is a fast-breaking shallow reef break for experts only. There are even a few offshore reefs that can turn on during the right swell. So, regardless of your level of expertise, Playa Encuentro has a surf break for you.

3. You can learn to Kitesurf

While the morning in Playa Encuentro and throughout Cabarete’s coastline is perfect for surfing, the afternoons are idyllic for kiting. Cabarete’s beaches aren’t just some of the best in the country, or the Caribbean, for kiting, they rank among the best in the entire world. Kite surfers travel far and wide to get to the shores of Cabarete and showcase their talents at Kite Beach.

Fortunately for travelers looking to take up a new hobby, Cabarete is also home to some of the best kitesurf instructors in the world. Learning to kite can be dangerous, so it is important to learn from the best. Cabarete boasts a variety of kiting spots that cater to all levels. Advanced kite surfers will find the waves at the outer reefs to be a suitable challenger, while beginners will feel safe and comfortable in the calm waters of Kite Beach and La Boca.

4. It’s close to El Choco National Park

Located less than 15 minutes from the beach and the center of Cabarete, El Choco National Park gives travelers the opportunity for an unparalleled wilderness adventure. With hiking and mountain bike trails, glistening freshwater lagoons, and a labyrinth of caves to explore, El Choco National Park is a paradise for those seeking adventure. The park is home to a diverse array of species, including over 30 species of birds, lizards, and bats. Explore the park solo, or with a bilingual guide.

5. The local nightlife

Cabarete shines just as brightly during the night as its sun-soaked shores do during the day. A plethora of small, beach bars and night clubs line the waterfront and offer cocktails, live music, and all the fun a traveler could ask for. If you’re looking for a high-end night, head to Ocean World Marina to visit the variety of restaurants and entertainment options, including a casino. Start your night off with sunset drinks under the shady, palm tree adjacent bars on Cabarete beach and see where the night takes you.

6. Horseback riding along the beach has never been more fun

In Cabarete, horseback riding on the beach is taken to a whole new level at the pristine Sea Horse Ranch Equestrian Center. Go for trail rides through the jungle, explore the coastline on horseback, or even take lessons. The center offers tours on over 7-miles of trails and beaches. Advanced riders can even take lessons in jumping and other advanced equestrian activities.

7. The DR’s world-class snorkeling & diving

Situated on the northern shores of the Dominican Republic, Cabarete is ideally position for snorkeling and diving expeditions into the enchanting Caribbean Sea. Just a stone’s throw from Cabarete is the town of Sousa, where many dive and snorkeling tours operate. If you’re a first-time diver, fret not, there are plenty of programs that will get you PADI certified in just a few classes. For more advanced divers, or those looking to snorkel, many companies offer full-day or half-day expeditions.

8. It’s within reach of secluded beaches

Playa Caleton, a calm watered, crescent-shaped, secluded beach is the perfect getaway for travelers looking for a little extra relaxation. The isolated shores of Playa Caleton are surrounded by lush vegetation and rocky outcrops, many of which are carved into unique sculptures. Take a dip in the emerald green water or relax on the sandy shores, either way, you’re sure to fall in love with Playa Caleton.

9. Cabarete’s unique local food scene

While Cabarete is small compared to many travel destinations in the Dominican, its food scene is both authentic and diverse making it perfect for food-loving travelers. In Cabarete, travelers will find a diverse food scene with options from all over the world. In the mood for Mexican? Head to Gordito’s Fresh Mex, a local favorite with plans to expand all over the DR. Want something a bit more authentic?

Wilson’s at La Boca is a BBQ beach shack that serves up freshly grilled fish among other favorites. Cabarete Coffee Company serves up breakfast favorites, smoothies, and of course excellent coffee. Cabarete beach is also a hub for fine dining. Enjoy fresh seafood or steaks cooked to perfection at La Casita de Papi’s Seafood.

10. The many adventure opportunities

Cabarete may be the watersport capital of the Caribbean, but there are endless opportunities for adventure inland as well. One of the most popular activities amongst Swell Surf Camp guests—other than surfing— is canyoning through Cabarete’s nearby waterfall system.

This adrenaline-filled adventure will have you jumping off waterfalls, swimming through gorges, and exploring caves. Another popular activity among travelers in Cabarete is ziplining at Laguna Dudu. The zipline at Laguna Dudu is not your average zip line, it sends you soaring above the lagoon from the nearby cliffs before you plunge into the picturesque water.

START SURFING TODAY!

As well as the physical and psychological benefits of surfing and the way it allows for a healthy lifestyle, you can also meet new people and forget about the stresses of life for a couple of hours. To finish our guide, we want to provide a few considerations before booking your first surf lesson!

Your height and weight aren’t important because there are various shapes and sizes of boards.

Don’t worry about your fitness levels right now because your stamina will improve over time.
Surfboards can even be custom-made, if necessary.
You should NEVER feel as though you’re too old to start surfing.

ABOUT SWELL

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught 1000’s of people the basics of surfing.

Age? Well the average age of a Swell client is 37, which roughly means for every 20 year old we teach the sport of surfing, we also teach a 54 year old. We have taught people well in their 60’s the sport of surfing

Adult surf camp — Learn to surf in the Caribbean with us

Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding…regardless of your age!

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June 4, 2019June 30, 2024

WHY YOU SHOULD BE RIDING A LONGBOARD

10 REASONS WHY YOU SHOULD BE SURFING A LONGBOARD

Whether you’re learning how to surf, or you’ve been doing it all your life, if you are not currently riding a longboard, or you don’t have a longboard in your quiver then you are missing out. Not only is longboarding tool to learn how to surf Longboarding is the original form of surfing, and there is nothing as stylish, graceful, and in tune with a wave as a skilled longboarder. Surfers started to stray from longboarding with the radical advancements in board shaping that occurred during the seventies and eighties. New surfers were no longer interested in surfing a longboard and doing hanging tens or cheater fives, rather than opt for the endless style of longboarding surfers turned to twin fins and eventually thrusters.

Shortboards brought about new, progressive manoeuvres that ultimately advanced surfing to new heights. But there is something to be said about tradition and going back to the roots of surfing. Longboarding has a lot to offer every surfer, not just beginners. If you’re a surfer who has never truly put in the hours on a longboard, then do yourself a favour and truly learn how to longboard. The results will be evident in your surfing, no matter what you have underfoot.

1. LONGBOARDS ARE PERFECT FOR PEOPLE LEARNING TO SURF

Every surfer should start out on a longboard. Learning how to surf can be a frustrating process, and that frustration is only compounded when trying to learn on the wrong board. A longboard provides beginner surfers with ample surface area that will catch waves with ease and feel stable on the takeoff. Surfers who learn on shortboards or try to jump down in board length too quickly will develop bad habits such as popping up with a dropped knee.

Additionally, learning to manoeuvre and generate speed on a longboard increases a surfer’s understanding of wave mechanics. Learning to walk the board allows surfers to explore the waves face and learn which sections contain speed.

2. INCREASE YOUR DAYS IN THE WATER

Longboards are wave catching machines, plain and simple. The surf does not need to be pumping for a surfer of any level to have a good session on a longboard. The harsh reality of surfing is that waves are rarely perfect.

Your local break might be “world-class” with the right swell and wind direction, but how often does that happen? Even if you know how to surf, and you consider yourself an advanced surfer, a longboard will increase your days in the water. It may as well be law that a day surfing small waves on a longboard is better than a day of not surfing at all.

3. IMPROVE YOUR SURFING

To learn to longboard is to learn how to surf. No one starts out on a shortboard, at least they shouldn’t. It is common practice for beginners to start on soft tops or longboards, and gradually reduce the length of their board as they progress. Longboards, however, are not just for beginners. While it is widely believed that longboards are for novice surfers, longboards actually serve as an invaluable progression tool for all levels of surfers.

When you longboard, things slow down, allowing surfers to deeply study the form and shape of the wave. Each longboarding session turns into a lesson in wave mechanics.

4. LEARN TO NOSE RIDE

Nose riding was once seen as the pinnacle of progressive surfing. In the 1960s, longboards were the standard surf craft, board shorts featured 3-inch inseams, and nothing was cooler than being able to ride with your toes hanging off the noise of your board.

To be able to hang ten or perform a cheater five, takes skill, balance, and a deep understanding of wave mechanics. I don’t know a single surfer who can noise ride, who doesn’t also rip on a shortboard.

5. IMPROVE YOUR STYLE

Watching a skilled surfer on a longboard is akin to watching ballet. Riding a longboard well is essentially an intricate dance that requires grace, balance, strength, and a great deal of skill. Style and grace may seem to come naturally to some surfers, but in actuality, they are born out of repetition and deep study.

Learning to longboard will inevitably increase a surfer’s skill and style.

6. LONGER RIDES

Along with more days in the water and an increased wave count, surfing a longboard will also provide lengthier rides. The high volume and length that allow longboards to be able to catch more waves than smaller surfboards, will also increase the length of each ride. Longboards have so much volume that they can cruise through the slow sections of a wave that will typically end a short boarders ride. Additionally, longboarders can easily ride through the ankle-high white water after a wave closes out and reach the reform.

Once you learn to longboard, don’t be surprised if many of your rides take you all the way to the beach.

7. YOU’RE NEVER TOO OLD TO SURF A LONGBOARD

The high volume and length of longboards make them incredibly easy to paddle and manoeuvre, therefore longboards are an ideal surf vessel for those of us who are a bit over the hill age-wise. If your shoulders can’t handle the wear and tear of paddling a board that may be shorter than you and sinks halfway into the water with you on it, then it may be time to learn how to longboard. If your hips cannot perform the jerky movements it takes to pump down the line on a shortboard, then it may be time to learn to longboard.

And if you do not have the strength to submerge your board underwater to duck dive, then it may be time to learn how to longboard.

8. NEVER GET SKUNKED ON A SURF TRIP

Longboard surfing

The seventh circle of hell most likely involves a perpetual cycle of booking a surf trip to some far-flung tropical surf paradise, only to arrive to find that there is no trace of a swell. No one likes getting skunked, but if the waves are small wouldn’t you still want the ability to surf? That’s where a trusty longboard comes in handy.

You may not get spit out of stand-up barrels, but at least you can catch a few waves on a trip where things don’t exactly go as planned.

9. CRUISY AND RELAXING RIDES

Whether you’re just learning how to surf or you’ve been at it for twenty years, you’ll love the laid back, cruisy rides that longboards offer. There’s no need to tire yourself out paddling, just a few hard strokes will put you into virtually any catchable wave. There is no need to take off late and drop in on a steep pitching face, longboards will have you into a wave and on your feet early.

And there’s no need to wear yourself out by tirelessly pumping to get down the line, simply cruise and enjoy the ride.

In conclusion, if you know how to surf, great hop on a longboard. If you don’t know how to surf, no problem at all hop on a longboard and learn. If you’re on the world tour or you’re just an average beach bum, hop on a longboard and you’re guaranteed to have a blast in the water.

LONGBOARDING SURF VIDEO

ABOUT SWELL

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught 1000’s of people the basics of surfing.

Age? Well the average age of a Swell client is 37, which roughly means for every 20 year-old we teach the sport of surfing, we also teach a 54-year-old. We have taught people well in their 60’s the sport of surfing

Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding…regardless of your age!

ABOUT SWELL SURF CAMP

Located on the scenic north coast of the Dominican Republic is our purpose built surf resort

We cater for surfers of all levels, from beginners to expert surfers who are looking for an active surf holiday

Swell offers full surf packages holidays

If you like this article about learning to surf after 40 you might also like the following articles.

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May 2, 2019August 10, 2024

SURFBOARD DESIGN 101

SURFBOARD DESIGN 101

Surfboard shaping and design have both changed significantly over the last few decades. Shaping trends are constantly changing. In the seventies, the twin-fin fish began to dominate line ups. Surfers were completely enthralled by the newfound speed and maneuverability of a shorter board. In the eighties, the thruster was designed and changed performance surfing forever. In the nineties and into the new millennium, high-performance boards were long, thin, and completely rockered out for maximum maneuverability. Today, high-performance boards are getting shorter and fatter with an increased focus on the volume under the chest. But what do all these design features really do? How does a board with low entry rocker compare to one with plenty of rocker when you’re actually surfing? What’s the difference in feel between a single fin, a twin fin, a thruster, and a quad? If you’ve ever wanted to know the ins and outs of surfboard design, you are in the right place. From design to function, this article explores all the intricacies of board design

SURFBOARD LENGTH

Length is a pretty intuitive design feature. The length is the measure of the surfboard from the tip of the nose to the tail. But there is more to length than one might think. Just a few inches taken or added to a board will create a noticeably different ride. The basic school of thought when it comes to length is that the more length a board has, the easier it will be to catch waves. Surfers may ride longboards on small days, or when the surf is maxing out, they may opt for larger step-ups and even big wave guns for help paddling into waves that would be otherwise too large and too fast to catch.

SURFBOARD WIDTH

Width is the measurement of a surfboard across the board at its widest point. Width plays a role in a few different aspects of surfing. The more surface area a board has, the more it will float, the easier it is to paddle, and the easier it is to catch waves. One way shapers achieve this increased surface area without adding length to a board is by increasing width. Small wave grovelers often feature wide tails; this allows surfers to catch more waves. A board with a wide nose might do well in small surf, but it struggles in large surf with steep faces because a narrow nose allows for a steep drop.

TAIL

The tail is the back end of the surfboard. Its shape and thickness directly affect the performance of the board on a wave. The shape of the tail either allows the board to maintain hold on a wave’s face through a turn or release quickly. For example, a rounded tail can hold, but a tail with a wing feature or a swallow tail releases the board from the waves face.

SURFBOARD RAILS

Rails are the edges of the board. Rails affect boards speed, planning ability, and tube riding ability. Thick rails, for example, will plane well and allow for a lot of speed. A hard, low rail has plenty of hold to the waves face, perfect for a good tube riding.

ROCKER

Rocker is a term that refers to the curvature of the board. A dramatic, heavy, or steep rocker will be more curved, while a flat rocker will be less curved. A steep rocker at the nose of the board allows the surfer to take steep drops. Contrastingly, a board that has a steep tail rocker or a steep rocker for the length of the board allows the surfer more manoeuvrability because the board has fewer contact points on a wave and therefore, less drag. High-performance boards often have intricate rockers that allow surfers to perform in steep, dynamic surf. Small wave boards often have flat rockers allowing the board to plane and maintain speed through slow sections of the wave.

BOTTOM CONTOURS

Often overlooked, but crucial factor that plays a significant role in the performance of a surfboard is the bottom contour.

These seemingly minor variations on the underside of the surfboard significantly impact how the board interacts with the water, affecting the ride’s speed, stability, and manoeuvrability.

The concept revolves around hydrodynamics, the branch of physics concerned with the force exerted by or on liquids in motion.

SURFBOARD VOLUME

Importance of Correct Surfboard Volume

Selecting the appropriate surfboard volume is essential for maximizing performance and manoeuvrability in the water. The right volume not only improves your surfing experience but also guarantees suitability for various wave conditions, enabling you to handle different types of waves effortlessly.

Moreover, comprehending the significance of the appropriate surfboard volume customized to your weight, experience level, and surf conditions is fundamental for a successful and enjoyable surfing session.

Impact on performance

The size of a surfboard significantly impacts its functionality in water. High-volume boards, excellent for gaining speed and catching waves with ease, often limit swiftness and make sharp turns difficult.

They are suitable for beginners or those surfing smaller, less forceful waves. Conversely, seasoned surfers frequently favour low-volume boards for handling large waves or performing exact manoeuvres.

These boards provide superior control and permit steeper drop-ins but necessitate more expertise to paddle and catch waves.

Concrete data from tracking devices installed in surfboards provide clarity: there is an optimal balance between size and performance adjusted to each surfer’s weight, skill level, and the wave conditions they aim to master.

Insufficient size leads to sinking, making even the starting difficult; excess can leave a surfer grappling with a board that feels cumbersome and hard to control. Whether opting for longboards that effortlessly slide across small swells or shortboards for rapid turns on large wave days, choosing the correct size is crucial for any surfer wishing to optimize their time in the water.

Suitability for different wave conditions

Choosing the right surfboard volume greatly depends on the wave conditions you’ll be surfing in. For smaller waves, opt for boards with more litres to increase speed and glide. This bit of extra volume helps maintain momentum when the power from the ocean isn’t as strong.

On large days, however, surfers should switch to boards with less volume. These sleeker designs provide greater manoeuvrability, allowing for sharp turns and snap on powerful waves without losing control.

In extreme conditions like XXL waves, which require both paddle power and stability, selecting a board with a higher volume becomes essential again. Adjusting your board’s volume according to these guidelines can transform your surfing experience.

Adding roughly 3 liters to your board’s volume can make all the difference in small-wave performance by helping catch more waves easier; whereas reducing volume enhances handling in heavy swells.

How to Calculate Your Ideal Surfboard Volume

When determining your ideal surfboard volume, take into account your weight, experience level, and the wave conditions you’ll be surfing in. These elements are essential in finding the appropriate volume that will optimize your performance and enjoyment on the waves. Utilize online volume calculators to gain thorough understanding of the particular needs for various types of surfboards customized to suit you.

Factors like weight, experience level, and surf conditions

Assessing your optimal surfboard volume begins with comprehension of three vital factors: weight, skill level, and the wave conditions you aim to tackle. These components aid in deciding not just about your comfort and steadiness on the water, but also enhance your competence and advancement as a surfer.

Weight: More weighty surfers need surfboards with a greater volume to keep afloat. For instance, novices can start looking for boards where the volume is equal to 100% of their body weight in kilograms. As you advance to an expert rank, this requirement modifies to a board volume that extends from 30-40% of your body weight. Such a calculated activity certifies that the board backs you sufficiently without affecting maneuverability.
Experience Level: Your skills largely impact the volume of surfboard you require. Novices gain from extra volume as it provides increased steadiness and simpler wave catching. Typically, their boards have volumes similar to their complete body weight in liters to simplify paddling into waves and making standing up more achievable. Conversely, adept surfers can manage boards with a lesser volume—around 30-40% of their body weight in liters—permitting for sharper turns and superior control in high-performance surfing situations.
Surf Conditions: The magnitude and force of the waves you aim to tackle are defining factors in selecting the suitable surfboard volume. Boards that are larger with higher volumes are recommended for smaller or weaker waves as they simplify catching such waves earlier. On the other hand, substantial wave conditions suggest a reduction in volume for desirable speed control and manoeuvrability. This adapted strategy lets surfers optimize their experience based on wave conditions, assuring they have the right equipment for both relaxed cruises on small swells and challenging rides on colossal waves.

By meticulously considering these three aspects – weight, skill level, and wave conditions – you prepare yourself for triumph on the water. Whether opting for a funboard for its lenient nature or accepting big wave guns for exciting rides, understanding how each component impacts your surfboard’s performance is vital to your growth as a surfer.

Examples of Volume Calculations

Calculating the ideal volume for your surfboard is crucial for optimal performance in various wave conditions. Consider factors like weight, experience level, and surf conditions when determining the right size for you.

Understanding the volume requirements based on these elements can significantly enhance your surfing experience. Read our comprehensive guide to find out more about calculating your perfect surfboard volume.

Different surfboard types and their typical volume ranges

Understanding the right surfboard volume for your needs is crucial. It changes how you catch waves, your speed, and your ability to perform tricks. Here’s a quick look at various surfboard types and their typical volume ranges. This guide aims to help you make an informed choice.

Surfboard Type	Volume Range (liters)
Shortboard	22-35
Fish	25-45
Funboard	40-60
Longboard	60-100

Shortboards, known for their agility, fall within a 22-35 liters volume range. They’re best for experienced surfers who want sharp turns and control on steep waves. Fish surfboards, offering a bit more volume at 25-45 liters, cater to those looking for a balance between speed and manoeuvrability. Funboards, with their 40-60 liters volume, suit beginners well, offering ease of catching waves and stability. Longboards have the highest volume, ranging from 60-100 liters, ideal for surfers who prioritize wave-catching ability and a smoother ride over sharp manoeuvres.

Each surfboard type caters to different skill levels and wave conditions. Choose wisely to enhance your surfing experience.

SURFBOARD FINS

Fins propel the board forward, dictate the turning radius, create hold on a waves face, and much more. So obviously, fin set up directly affects the board’s performance and feel. While there are a few novelty few setups that have gone in and out of fashion over the years, such as the bonzer or the asymmetrical setup, there are four standard fin setups: single fin, thruster, twin fin, and quad.

THRUSTER

The thruster (3 fins) is, perhaps, today’s most common fin set-up. When the thruster first appeared on the scene during the 1980s, most surfers were riding twin fins that offered a lot of speed, but not much manoeuvrability. The addition of the back fin provided surfers enough control to be able to turn on a dime. The thruster set-up allows surfers to change direction with ease and carve out massive turns on an open face. This increased manoeuvrability completely changed progressive surfing and brought about the power surfing style that was popularized in the ’90s.

TWIN FIN

The twin fin came into popularity during the 1970s with the rise of “the fish.” These unique shortboards, with two fins placed far apart, allowed surfers to reduce drag and increase speed. Twin fins are ideal, and a blast, in small to medium waves where they provide optimal maneuverability and flow.

QUAD

The Quad fin set up (4 fins) leans heavily on the basic science behind the twin fin, a wide space between fins for water to flow equals speed. However, the extra two fins on the quad provide additional hold, which comes in handy in smaller waves.

Quads with the trailer fin closer to the rails and further up on the board, perform great on smaller waves, like a twin fin but with a bit more control.

Quads with the trailer fins further back provide extra hold in large hollow barrels, without sacrificing speed.

SINGLE FIN

Today, most single-fin surfboards are longboards, but that wasn’t always the case.

Single fins offer surfers long, drawn-out, arching turns. The one large fin offers plenty of hold but does not have the manoeuvrability of a board with three fins, regardless of the board’s length.

MORE INFO ABOUT SURFBOARDS, SHAPES AND DESIGNS:

– The Swell article surfboard shapes give you more insight into the different types of shapes. – New to surfing? Read the beginners surfboard guide. – What is needed to get you into this? Read the surf equipment and accessories page. – Don’t want to bring your surfboard to Cabarete? See our list of surfboards for rent in Cabarete

ABOUT SWELL

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught 1000’s of people the basics of surfing. Learn to surf in the Caribbean with us Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf at our surf retreat?

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April 29, 2019July 5, 2024

SURF , WAVE, SWELL AND BREAK TERMINOLOGY

SURF, WAVE, SWELL AND BREAK TERMINOLOGY

THE ULTIMATE WAVE GUIDE

Topics covered and explained in the Surf, waves, swell and break terminology:

Understanding Swell
- Ground Swell
- Wind Swell
Understanding Wave Formation
- Concave Refraction
- Convex Refraction
Understanding Surf Breaks
- Beach Break
- Point Break
- Reef Break
Wave anatomy
- The Peak
- The Shoulder
- The Face/ Wall
- The Lip
- The Channel

understanding wave forecasts — Different types of waves

To a non-surfer, a wave is just a wave. In actuality, waves are like fingerprints; no two are alike. The same is true for wave setups; no single break is exactly the same as another one anywhere in the world. In order to improve one’s skills, a surfer must have a firm grasp on wave mechanics and an in-depth knowledge of a variety of different types of surf breaks.

WAVE GUIDE

To understand surf breaks and wave mechanics, we must look at how waves are formed by swell and where swell comes from.

UNDERSTANDING SWELL

The sun is the origin of all surf. Solar energy creates wind, and winds blow across vast areas of open ocean to create energy that eventually organizes itself into swell.

When swell travels great distances or combines with other swells, it can increase in size and interval. There are two types of swell that cause surf, groundswell, and wind swell.

GROUND SWELL

Groundswell is the type of swell surfers hope and pray for; it often creates large and powerful surf.

Groundswell is created by large storm and weather systems or strong wind blowing over long distances of open ocean. Groundswell can travel for thousands of miles, and the wave energy can reach up to 1,000 feet in depth. Ground swells typically produce long interval swell and large surf once they make landfall.

WIND SWELL

Wind swell is created by less powerful, more localized wind systems.

The wave energy from wind swells do not run as deep, and they only travel short distances across open ocean.

The result is usually smaller surf with a shorter interval.

UNDERSTANDING WAVE FORMATION

When swell finally reaches shallow water- whether that be a continental shelf, a reef system, or a sand bar- it is slowed and finally releases its energy in the form of breaking waves.

When swell bends horizontally as it breaks, it is called refraction. Refraction steers swell towards or away from shore. Some coves on the same coast during the same swell can have pumping waves while others are as calm as lakes.

This occurrence is caused by the varying ocean floor contours that cause different types of refraction. There are two types of refraction that can occur, depending on the ocean floor topography, concave refraction, and convex refraction.

CONCAVE REFRACTION

When open ocean swell comes into contact with an abrupt, protruding change in the ocean floor that is surrounded by deeper water- often a reef or sand bar- the swell will bend at its far ends as it turns into a breaking wave.

The center portion of the swell is slowed by the protrusion. The result resembles a bowl shape that travels towards the shore, with the “opening of the bowl” facing the shore.

CONVEX REFRACTION

When open ocean swell collides with a protruding headland, such as a cliff, jetty, or even a pier, the portion of swell confronting the headland slows, while the rest of the line of swell continues forward at pace.

The result closely resembles a “C” shape with the curved side moving towards the shore. This is known as convex refraction, and it nearly mirrors concave refraction in appearance.

UNDERSTANDING SURF BREAKS

Beyond refraction, ocean floor topography plays a role in determining how a wave breaks, not just how it bends. Surf breaks are categorized in three different ways: beach breaks, reef breaks, and point breaks. Understanding the differences between surf breaks is key to not only progressing as a surfer but staying safe in the water.

At Swell Surf Camp, our clients have access to a variety of surf break types that will match their surf skill level. The Dominican Republic is home to a vast system of reef and beach breaks.

BEACH BREAK

If you’re a first-time surfer, it’s best to find a mellow beach break to learn. Beach breaks are typically the safest types of surf break. Incoming swell breaks over sand bars versus harsh rocks or reef.

The shape and size of the wave are directly influenced by the sand bars that are constantly shifting. Beach breaks typically offer a variety of peaks compared to reef or point breaks that might only have one take off zone.

POINT BREAK

Point breaks, as the name suggests, are waves that break on a point, a protruding land mass that is perpendicular to the wave’s direction.

This point can be natural or manmade, such as a jetty. The wave at most point breaks is slow forming and offers surfers a long ride with a carve-worthy wall. Point breaks are great for surfers who are looking to progress and learn to carve / turn.

REEF BREAK

A reef break is created by a wave breaking over a rock or coral formation under water. Reef breaks can either have submerged reef or exposed reef.

A submerged reef is a rock formation that has been covered by sand. Submerged reefs are typically safer to surf over than any other type of reef. The exposed reef is often sharp and dangerous to step on. Additionally, reef systems can have other hazards, like sea urchins.

Reef breaks do, however, offer a consistent peak and wave shape that you would not find at a beach break.

WAVE ANATOMY

In order to successfully catch and ride waves, a surfer must comprehend basic wave anatomy. Where should you take off? What parts of the wave have the most speed? Where is a safe place to wait for incoming surf? All of these questions can be answered by digging a little deeper into the anatomy of a wave.

THE PEAK

One mistake many first-time surfers make is paddling for any incoming wave no matter where they are positioned compared to the peak. The peak of a wave is its highest point and the ideal take-off point for surfers. A wave begins to break at the peak making it the steepest portion of the wave and the easiest place to take off.

THE SHOULDER

The shoulder of a wave is a flatter and more mellow section of the wave that sits down the line from the peak. The shoulder is a great place to sit and watch your friends score waves.

THE FACE/ WALL

The face or wall of a wave is the steep, vertical section of a breaking wave just in front of the “pocket.” Our goal as surfers is to ride on the face of the wave just in, or slightly in front of, the pocket. Once a surfer gets too far down the face of the wave (closer to the shoulder), they cut back so that they can ride in the pocket of the wave. Beginner surfers will find that their rides will be cut short if they ride in front of the face of the wave, rather than on it. The vertical section of the wave has the most power.

THE LIP

The lip of the wave is the cresting portion that comes down as the wave breaks. With offshore wind and a decent sized swell, surfers can pull into barrels behind the lip of the wave.

THE CHANNEL

While the channel is not technically part of the wave, it is vital to a surfer’s ability to paddle out. Paddling out can be difficult, especially in large surf. The channel is where all of the incoming surf flows back into the sea. This is the best place to paddle out, as it is often calmer than other parts of the break.

LEARNING MORE ABOUT WAVES

The most effective way to learn about waves, different surf breaks, and varying surf conditions is to surf as much and as often as possible. At Swell Surf Camp, we not only teach our clients to surf in the warm Caribbean Sea, but we provide the ultimate surf experience through stellar lodging, tasty food, and a welcoming community.

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LEARNING TO SURF AT 40: A COMPLETE GUIDE

IS IT EVER TOO LATE TO START SURFING?

EMBRACING THE WAVES: LEARNING TO SURF AT 40

THE JOURNEY OF LEARNING TO SURF AT 40

PHYSICAL BENEFITS OF LEARNING TO SURF AT 40 AND BEYOND

SHOULDER/BACK STRENGTH

CARDIO WORKOUT

INCREASED FLEXIBILITY THROUGH SURFING

CORE AND LEG STRENGTH IMPROVEMENT FROM SURFING

PSYCHOLOGICAL BENEFITS OF LEARNING TO SURF AT 40 AND BEYOND

COORDINATION AND CONCENTRATION

LEARNING TO SURF AT 40 GIVES A BOOST TO YOUR MENTAL HEALTH

DETERMINATION, PERSEVERANCE, AND GRATIFICATION

RELIEF FROM STRESS

MEET NEW PEOPLE

START LEARNING TO SURF AT 40 TODAY!

HOW ABOUT WINGFOILING?

QUESTIONS

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO LEARN TO SURF WHEN STARTING AT 40?

CAN I LEARN TO SURF WITHOUT TAKING LESSONS IF I'M STARTING AT 40?

WHAT SHOULD I FOCUS ON WHEN LEARNING TO SURF AT 40?

IS 70 TOO OLD TO START SURFING?

WILL YOUNGER SURFERS JUDGE ME FOR LEARNING TO SURF AT 40?

DO I NEED SPECIAL SURFING GEAR IF I'M LEARNING TO SURF AT 40?

WHAT IF I HAVE A FEAR OF THE OCEAN WHEN LEARNING TO SURF AT 40?

IS IT TOO LATE TO START SURFING AT 50?

WHY CHOOSE SWELL OVER OTHER SURF CAMPS?

ABOUT SWELL

THE 6 BEST SURF CAMPS FOR BEGINNERS

How To Choose The Best Beginner Surf Camp

Evaluating Surf Camp Locations

Consider wave conditions and seasonality

Assessing Instruction Quality

Look for certified instructors and small class sizes

BEST SURF CAMP DESTINATIONS FOR BEGINNERS LEARNING TO SURF

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

SURFING COSTA RICA

BALI, INDONESIA

PORTUGAL

CORNWALL, ENGLAND

AUSTRALIA, BYRON BAY

ABOUT SWELL SURF CAMP

WHAT LEVEL OF SURFER AM I?

What Level Of Surfer Am I?

DON’T OVERESTIMATE YOUR SKILLSET

WHY KNOWING YOUR SURFING LEVEL MATTERS

ELEMENTS INFLUENCING SURF CONDITIONS

COMMON SURFING MYTHS

THE RISK OF OVERESTIMATING SKILLS

HAZARDS LINKED TO MISJUDGING YOUR ABILITIES

7 CATEGORIES

SURFER LEVEL COMPARION TABLE

SO….WHAT LEVEL OF SURFER ARE YOU?

BEGINNER SURFER

NOVICE

PROGRESSIVE

INTERMEDIATE

ADVANCED SURFER LEVEL

EXPERT and PRO LEVELS

QUESTIONS

WHAT ARE THE 7 DIFFERENT SURFING LEVELS AND HOW DO THEY DIFFER?

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO PROGRESS FROM BEGINNER TO INTERMEDIATE SURFER?

HOW DO I KNOW IF I'M OVERESTIMATING MY SURFING ABILITY?

WHAT ARE THE MOST COMMON MISTAKES SURFERS MAKE WHEN SELF-ASSESSING THEIR LEVEL?

WHAT WAVE SIZE SHOULD I SURF BASED ON MY SURFING LEVEL?

WHAT SKILLS MUST I MASTER TO BECOME AN INTERMEDIATE SURFER?

WHAT SURFBOARD SHOULD I USE FOR MY SURFING LEVEL?

WHAT MAKES SWELL SURF CAMP DIFFERENT FOR LEARNING TO ASSESS AND IMPROVE SURFING LEVELS?

WHY IS ACCURATE SURF LEVEL ASSESSMENT CRUCIAL FOR SAFETY?

BEST SURFBOARDS FOR BEGINNERS

HOW TO PICK A SUITABLE BEGINNER SURF BOARD

VOLUME & BEGINNER SURFBOARDS

MORE WAVES = MORE PROGRESS = MORE FUN!

BEGINNER SURFBOARDS CONSTRUCTION TYPES

SOFT TOP SURFBOARD

MOLDED EPOXY SANDWICH TYPE OF CONSTRUCTION

TRADITIONAL POLYESTER RESIN

EPOXY RESIN SURFBOARD

RECOMMENDED SURFBOARDS FOR BEGINNERS

FOAMBOARD/ FOAMIE: LENGTH 7FT – 9FT