LEARNING TO SURF AFTER 40

surfing

LEARNING TO SURF AT 40: A COMPLETE GUIDE

IS IT EVER TOO LATE TO START SURFING?

The journey of learning to surf at 40 is not only possible but can be incredibly rewarding. This guide could easily be titled ‘learning to surf after 50, 60 and upward’ because age is truly just a number when it comes to catching your first wave.

learning to surf at 40

EMBRACING THE WAVES: LEARNING TO SURF AT 40

“Surfing? But you’re over 40!” – even if nobody actually says this, it’s something that plagues the mind when looking at activities typically associated with younger crowds. If you think surfing is only suitable for young, athletic types, think again because learning to surf at 40 is becoming increasingly common.

We firmly believe you should be able to start your surfing journey at any age if it’s what you really want to do. Who cares about the number tied to your name? If you feel as though you can do it, why not give it a go? Even if you aren’t quite as flexible as you were many years ago, this shouldn’t ever stop you from enjoying the ocean and reaping the many health benefits learning to surf at 40 can bring.

Today, we want to provide anyone interested with an introduction to surfing and why learning to surf at 40 can be the perfect time to start. As a sport with no physical contact, unlike football and rugby, it’s suited towards those who want to prevent impact injuries. It’s important to be in decent physical shape when learning to surf, as it is a physically demanding activity. Moreover, you can enjoy plenty of health benefits while getting to know new people.

There’s something special about surfing’s impact on the brain. When learning to surf at an older age, you’ll be physically active and your mind will also get a workout as you try to navigate the waves that seem determined to knock you over.

Is there a perfect age to start surfing? Absolutely not! You’re never too old to catch your first wave. Many people believe that surfing is only for the young, but that’s just a myth. Whether you’re in your 40s, 50s, or even 70s, the ocean welcomes everyone.

Age is just a number when it comes to surfing. What truly matters is your passion and willingness to learn.

Here are some reasons why learning to surf at 40 is an excellent decision:

  • Surfing keeps you in shape and boosts your mood
  • It’s a fantastic way to challenge yourself and feel younger
  • You get to meet new people and join a vibrant community

THE JOURNEY OF LEARNING TO SURF AT 40

Of course, we wouldn’t be talking about surfing at all if it wasn’t fun and this is something else to consider. Sure, you might get knocked over once or twice but it’s all in the name of fun (right?).

PHYSICAL BENEFITS OF LEARNING TO SURF AT 40 AND BEYOND

Ever woken up on a Sunday morning and tried to find things to do to avoid the gym? Even washing and ironing are better options for some. If so, you aren’t alone because continually doing the same things in the gym can get rather boring. Thankfully, learning to surf at 40 still offers a cardiovascular workout but every single session will be a thrill and it’ll be different from the last. Also, you’ll get a sense of achievement as your skill increases.

With this in mind, let’s take a look at some of the physical benefits of learning to surf at 40:

benefits of learning to surf at 40

SHOULDER/BACK STRENGTH

We’re going to start with one that perhaps isn’t so obvious, and it’s the improvement you’ll see to your back and shoulder strength. If you ask several retirees the most annoying thing about getting older, many will tell you about their back and shoulder problems. Unfortunately, this can have a huge impact on even everyday tasks such as putting the washing out on the line or trying to sit comfortably to read a book.

When learning to surf at 40, your arms will always be in use as you attempt to balance, paddle, and the inevitable climbing back onto the board (unless you’re an instant pro!). Even when sitting or lying on the board, you’ll be rotating your arms and the shoulder joint will get a good workout. As your arms go through their full range of motion, this is great news for the shoulders, elbows, and even the spine.

For many, they enjoy increased mobility in their upper body and it generally fights off the stiffness that comes with age. Let’s face it, we’ve all made those grunting noises while attempting to stand up after a long time sitting (we won’t tell anyone!).

surf lessons for learning to surf at 40

CARDIO WORKOUT

Not only is heart disease the leading cause of death in the UK, according to the government website, it causes nearly twice as many deaths as dementia; dementia is the second leading cause of death. While deaths from heart disease and stroke have certainly decreased in recent years, it’s still too high for our liking and learning to surf at 40 is the perfect opportunity to stay active and reduce your chances of struggling with this health issue. Regardless of which form of surfing you choose (duck diving, paddling, or standing), you’ll be moving constantly and this level of activity can only be beneficial for your health.

As your heart rate increases and the different muscles receive blood and oxygen, your cardiovascular system welcomes the activity and this offers various benefits in everyday life. For example, you won’t have any trouble breathing and strenuous activity becomes much easier. Suddenly, you’ll have the energy to take the stairs at work rather than the lift (unless you’re on the 33rd floor, of course!).

surf coaching for those learning to surf at 40

INCREASED FLEXIBILITY THROUGH SURFING

Before we move onto the psychological benefits of learning to surf at 40, we want to talk about flexibility because certain parts of your body will always be stretching and twisting while on the board. Suddenly, muscles and joints you didn’t even know existed will be activated and we mustn’t forget the range of motion your joints will experience as the sheer power of the waves hit the board. With all this stretching, it’ll be like a more dramatic form of yoga and you should experience fewer aches and pains in life.

Benefits of learning to surf at 40

CORE AND LEG STRENGTH IMPROVEMENT FROM SURFING

Something that often goes forgotten with learning to surf at 40 is the work it does with your core; all that effort to stay balanced keeps the core engaged and this is something you’ll certainly feel the morning after your first session. Just as we saw in the cardiovascular section, this is something you might not notice but will improve your life. Whether you’re lifting boxes, standing after long periods of sitting down or using the upper torso in any way, you’re going to see a boost after surfing.

For those who work in an office and stare at a computer all day, learning to surf at 40 can also help with your posture; you might find yourself slouching less while at the desk. In truth, surfing reflects many of the normal movements we put our bodies through on a daily basis (although it might not seem like it at first).

For example, after first paddling out to a wave, you’ll need to activate the muscles in the legs and core to jump to your feet. In every single lesson, you’ll jump to your feet several times. If you can do it on a surfboard in the sea, you can do it getting out of bed or getting off the sofa with ease. Over time, the difference in your leg and core strength will be noticeable and this is another great benefit of learning to surf at 40 (they’re starting to add up, right?).

PSYCHOLOGICAL BENEFITS OF LEARNING TO SURF AT 40 AND BEYOND

Hopefully, we’ve been able to persuade you to book that first surfing lesson on the physical benefits alone. If not, how about we tell you of the brilliant mental benefits of learning to surf at 40?

social benefits of learning to surf at 40

COORDINATION AND CONCENTRATION

Without both coordination and concentration, you won’t be able to stand up on the board for longer than five seconds. These will both be improved over time. Of course, these are two transferable skills so there’s no reason why your coordination and concentration don’t also improve at home, at work, and while playing any other sports. For example, you might notice that you’re able to sit at a desk for a longer period or be more successful in your local pool league.

LEARNING TO SURF AT 40 GIVES A BOOST TO YOUR MENTAL HEALTH

Firstly, all exercise has now been scientifically proven to release endorphins (chemicals in the brain) which improve mood and overall wellbeing. For those who suffer from depression and/or anxiety, many doctors are now starting to recommend exercise for this very reason. This, coupled with the fact you’ll be outside breathing in the fresh sea air, may allow you to adopt a new positive mindset in life.

mental health benefits of learning to surf at 40

DETERMINATION, PERSEVERANCE, AND GRATIFICATION

We must provide a warning at this stage because learning to surf at 40 will require patience, it will require perseverance, and a significant percentage of people stop attending after just one lesson.

However, we urge you to fight through the learning stage. Yes, you might find yourself getting frustrated and you might wonder where the fun starts for a while. But, as you improve, and overcome the mental barrier that stops many, you’ll have one of the most gratifying experiences of your life.

Eventually, all your hard work will pay off and you won’t believe that you nearly gave it all up. From struggling to jump to your feet to being able to stand up confidently for extended periods, you can prove to yourself that all goals in life are achievable. Even when the goal seemed impossible just a short while ago, the hard work and time you invest will always be rewarded.

Soon enough, you’ll enjoy all the physical and psychological benefits of learning to surf at 40 that we’ve discussed and you may even be able to bring friends and family along to watch you shine. As we’ve seen before, these are transferable skills because you’ll be more likely to take this determination and perseverance into your personal life and career.

RELIEF FROM STRESS

Finally, you don’t have to become a master of surfing to enjoy the stress relief it can offer. If you want to push your body to its limit and really test yourself, this is possible. If you want to have a relaxing pastime and enjoy being in the water, this is equally fine. While some choose to navigate every wave and they feel disappointed after a poor lesson, others are just happy to be out in the water sitting on the board and looking out over the stunning horizon.

When it comes to learning to surf at 40, the surfboard and the water are the two essentials. From here, you can do whatever makes you happy. Soon enough, you’ll be wondering where all that stress from work has gone and this for us makes for a successful hobby.

learning to surf at 40 or even 50

MEET NEW PEOPLE

As we get older, often we seem to get stuck in our ‘social circle’ it’s hard to meet new people. Learning to surf at 40 is a great way to expand your social circle.

Instead of networking events or awkward small talk at the office, you suddenly have a built-in icebreaker: “How was that last wave?” Everyone out there is dealing with the same wipeouts, nerves, and little victories, so conversations feel easy and natural. You’ll meet people from different countries, career,s and backgrounds who are there for exactly the same reason you are: to learn, have fun, and reset from everyday life.

In a surf camp setting like Swell, this social side is amplified. Most guests are in their 30s to 50s, many travel solo, and by day two it usually feels more like a group of friends than a bunch of strangers sharing a holiday. Breakfast chats turn into shared surf sessions, yoga classe,s and dinners in town. A lot of our clients stay in touch, plan future surf trips together, or visit each other back home.

If you’ve been feeling like your social life has gone a bit stale, learning to surf at 40 gives you an easy way back into meeting new, like-minded people – without the forced “networking” vibe. Show up, paddle out, be willing to laugh at yourself, and the rest tends to take care of itself.

Surf Coaching for those learning to surf at 40

START LEARNING TO SURF AT 40 TODAY!

As well as the physical and psychological benefits of learning to surf at 40 and the way it allows for a healthy lifestyle, you can also meet new people and forget about the stresses of life for a couple of hours. To finish our guide, we want to provide a few considerations before booking your first surf lesson!

Your height and weight aren’t important because there are various shapes and sizes of boards.

  • Don’t worry about your fitness levels right now because your stamina will improve over time.
  • Surfboards can even be custom-made, if necessary.
  • You should NEVER feel as though you’re too old to start learning to surf at 40
  • The average age of guests coming to Swell is 39!

Don’t live life according to other people’s expectations or rules, make your own rules (perhaps not on the road, but you get the idea!). If you feel you’ll enjoy surfing and you like the sound of the many benefits we’ve discussed here today, we have three words for you; GO FOR IT!

 

HOW ABOUT WINGFOILING?

Another sport we offer here at Swell is Wingfoiling. The video below shows that age should not hold you back.

YouTube video

QUESTIONS

No results!
  • HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO LEARN TO SURF WHEN STARTING AT 40?

    Learning to surf varies for everyone. It depends on factors like your fitness level, how often you practice, and whether you take lessons. Some people get the basics in a few weeks, while others may take months. Learning to surf at 40 might require a bit more patience, but the journey is worth it.

  • CAN I LEARN TO SURF WITHOUT TAKING LESSONS IF I'M STARTING AT 40?

    Yes, you can, but taking surf lessons can speed up your learning and make it safer, especially for those learning to surf at 40. Instructors can teach you proper techniques and help you avoid common mistakes.

  • WHAT SHOULD I FOCUS ON WHEN LEARNING TO SURF AT 40?

    Focus on building your fitness, especially your stamina and strength. It's also helpful to take lessons from instructors experienced with teaching adults who are learning to surf at 40.

  • IS 70 TOO OLD TO START SURFING?

    No, 70 is not too old. There are inspiring stories of people who started surfing in their 70s and even 80s(We recently had an 81 year young client on ou learn to surf course, and our surf instructors managed to get him catching his own waves and up and riding at the end of the course) .  If learning to surf at 40 seems challenging, remember that many have started much later with great success. The key is to listen to your body and go at your own pace.

  • WILL YOUNGER SURFERS JUDGE ME FOR LEARNING TO SURF AT 40?

    Most surfers are friendly and supportive. Everyone once was a beginner, and the surfing community respects anyone willing to learn, regardless of whether you're learning to surf at 40, 50, or beyond.

  • DO I NEED SPECIAL SURFING GEAR IF I'M LEARNING TO SURF AT 40?

    Not necessarily, but having the right gear can make a big difference. Choose a board that's right for beginners and a wetsuit that fits well. Accessories like booties and gloves can add comfort if you live in a colder climate for surfing.

  • WHAT IF I HAVE A FEAR OF THE OCEAN WHEN LEARNING TO SURF AT 40?

    It's normal to have fears, but you can overcome them by starting slow. Spend time in the water, get comfortable with swimming, and consider taking lessons to build your confidence. Many who are learning to surf at 40 share this concern, and instructors are experienced in helping you overcome it.

  • IS IT TOO LATE TO START SURFING AT 50?

    No, it's not too late. Many people start surfing in their 50s and even later. As long as you have a reasonable level of fitness and flexibility, you can learn to surf at any age. Learning to surf at 40 prepares you well for continuing into your 50s.

  • WHY CHOOSE SWELL OVER OTHER SURF CAMPS?

    Because you’re not into dorm-style chaos or cheesy party vibes. Swell was built with comfort in mind—boutique lodging, cozy communal spaces, ensuite rooms with AC and crisp cotton sheets, structured surf lessons, legendary breakfasts, and a social yet chill environment. Founded in 2009, it's the world’s first luxury surf camp designed by surfers for adults.

ABOUT SWELL

Learning to surf at 40 with Swell

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught thousands of people the basics of surfing, including many who were learning to surf at 40 and beyond.

Age? Well the average age of a Swell client is 39, making us perfect for those learning to surf at 40.

 

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding…regardless of your age!

Our luxury surf coaching holidays have taught thousands of people the sport of surfing in a safe, fun and quick way, including many who were learning to surf at 40 and beyond.

 

Share on Facebook

THE 6 BEST SURF CAMPS FOR BEGINNERS

BEST SURF CAMPS FOR BEGINNERS

THE 6 BEST SURF CAMPS FOR BEGINNERS

In this article “6 best surf camps for beginners destinations”  we are going to explore some of the world’s best surf destinations for beginners.

Before we started Swell Surf Camp in the Caribbean in 2009 we operated a surf travel agency and that gave us the chance to visit over 25+ surf destinations to see what the surf conditions were like, so we had a pretty good idea of the different surfing conditions in the various surf destinations listed below.

beginner surf camp

But first, we need to have a look at what makes a good or best surf destination.

There is no such thing as one destination that ticks all the boxes. For one, someone who is in the early stages of their surf career is looking for a very different type of wave than a seasoned pro.

In this article, we focus on a region that has ideal learn-to-surf conditions for complete beginners.
We could have included more countries and regions on the list, but we have focused on what we consider the best surf camp destinations.

How To Choose The Best Beginner Surf Camp

Evaluating Surf Camp Locations

Picking the right spot for your surf camp is key. You’ll want to check out wave conditions and how they change with the seasons.

Consider wave conditions and seasonality

Choosing the right surf camp for beginners means looking at the waves and when they’re best. Some places have great waves in summer, while others are better in winter. You want to go when the waves are just right for learning – not too big, but not too small either.

I learned this the hard way during my first surf camp trip. The waves were huge, and it was tough as a beginner. So, check out when is the peak season for those friendly beginner waves.

 

“Catching your first wave feels incredible, but timing is everything.”

 

Seasons change and so do wave conditions. This influences your surfing a lot. If you pick a camp during its off-season, you might find yourself waiting on the beach instead of riding waves.

It’s all about finding that sweet spot – good weather plus perfect beginner waves equals an awesome surf experience!

Assessing Instruction Quality

Assessing instruction quality is key—make sure the surf camp has great teachers with real certifications and small classes to help you learn better. Ready to ride the waves? Keep reading for more tips on picking your perfect surf adventure!

Surf Coachings

Look for certified instructors and small class sizes

Picking the right surf camp means finding good teachers. You want instructors who know their stuff and don’t have too many students at once. Here’s how to do it:

  1. Check if instructors are certified. This means they have training to teach surfing well.
  2. Make sure there are not too many students for one teacher. A small group means you get more help.
  3. Look for camps where teachers have first aid skills. Surfing can lead to bumps and bruises, so this is important.
  4. Ask about class sizes before you sign up. The fewer students per class, the better.
  5. Read what other people say online about the teachers and their style of teaching.
  6. Find a surf camp that matches your level of surfing. If you’re just starting, make sure the camp is for beginners.

Next, let’s talk about where these surf camps are located and why it matters a lot for beginners like yourself!

This means you get more help learning to ride those waves. Also, think about where it is and what kind of place you’ll stay in. You want it to be fun and comfy, right? Don’t forget to read what other surfers say online – their reviews can tell you a lot! Finally, look at the gear they give you and how they plan your days of surfing lessons.

 

surfing holiday

BEST SURF CAMPS FOR BEGINNERS

EXPERIENCE LEVEL:

BETWEEN 0 AND 5 SURF SESSIONS.

 
 

BEST SURF CAMP DESTINATIONS  FOR BEGINNERS LEARNING TO SURF

best surf camp for beginners

 

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

Dominican surf campWHERE IS IT LOCATED: Largest island In the Caribbean, the North coast faces the Atlantic, and the south coast faces the Caribbean.

 

GETTING THERE: Short direct flight from Miami or 3-hour flight from New York and Toronto. Charter flights from Europe

 

FOCUS SURF REGION: The north coast, 20 minutes from Puerto Plata International Airport.

LEARN TO SURF IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

dr learn to surf holiday

What makes it a great surf destination for beginners:
We are biased since this is where we opened Swell in 2009, but we did so for a reason: we wanted a place where we can teach people to surf in a safe way. Playa Encuentro is the ideal spot, it has 350 surfable days in the year, with mellow reform waves on the inside breaking over a flat reef, deep enough to stand in the water (around chest high), easy access to the beach, no dangerous current or sea life. We have taught 5000+ guests over 10 years the sport of surfing.
There is no dangerous sea life present, nor are there dangerous rips or currents present. All this makes it one of the best places for a learn-to-surf camp for beginners.

BEST TIME TO GO:  Any time of the year

More info: See this website

PROS

  • Pretty white sand beaches, lined with palm trees.
  • Friendly Caribbean vibes, in and out of the water.
  • Budget-friendly
  • Year-round surf destination
  • Lots of alternative activities and sports
  • No need to rent a car
  • Close to an international airport
  • Warm tropical climate and water

VIDEO OF THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

YouTube video

beginner surf campMore info about the beginner surf camps Swell offers here >>

SURFING COSTA RICA

 

Where is it located: In the middle of Central America. 2 coastlines, the West coast faces the Pacific, and the east coast faces the Caribbean

 

Focus surf region: Pacific region of Guanacaste

 

 

What makes Costa Rica a great surf destination for beginners:
We have spent a lot of time in Costa Rica between 2014 and 2017. The waves in Nosara and Tamarindo offer a great playground for people new to the sport of surfing, and there are plenty of surf schools and surf camps in this area of Costa Rica.
Mostly sand bottom beach breaks make learning to surf in Costa Rica safe.

Best time to go: Smaller waves between November and March

costa rica surf camp

PROS

  • Safe country to visit in Central America
  • Plenty of surf camps and surf schools to choose from
  • Pretty beaches and wildlife

CONS

  • The most expensive country to visit in the region, expect North American prices
  • Domestic travel from San Jose international airport takes time and money
  • Busy in the surf

BALI, INDONESIA


Where is it located: Southeast Asia, northwest of Australia, Indonesia consists of 17,500 islands, of which Bali is one of them.

 

Focus surf region: West coast of Bali, between Seminyak in the north to Uluwatu in the south

 

 

 

What makes Bali one of the best surf camp destinations for beginners:
Having lived in Bali for 6 years, we the owners of Swell, decided to open a Bali surf camp in 2020. We quickly realized that after Corona and Bali re-opening in 2022, that the surfing beaches have now gotten too crowded for us to teach our students the sport of surfing in a safe and fun way, we closed the doors on our Bali Surf Camp in 2023

bali surf camps

 

Best time to go:  Any time of the year.

PROS

  • Close to Denpasar international airport
  • Budget-friendly
  • Great Balinese culture
  • Warm tropical climate and water

 

CONS

  • Kuta region traffic can be a nightmare
  • Very busy surfing beaches in the Kuta and Uluwatu area
  • Unregulated surf instructors and surf schools make for dangerous learning for beginning surfers
  • Air travel from Europe and North America is lengthy, although once landed at Bali it is a short trip to the surf beaches.

PORTUGAL

 

portugal surf destinationWhere is it located: Southwest corner of Europe, bordering Spain to the east.

 

Focus surf region: South Western tip of the Algarve and Alentejo

 

What makes Portugal one of the best surf destinations for beginners:
A mild climate makes Portugal a great place to visit for about 9 months of the year where the outside air temperature is  20° Celcius (69° Fahrenheit). Lots of open beach breaks mean there are not many days where the surf is too small to learn surfing.
A large variety of surf camps in schools cater for people between 18 and 24 years old.

Most teaching is done by qualified surf instructors

learn to surf in portugal

More info: coming soon

 

PROS

  • Lots of budget hostel-style surf camps  in Portugal to choose from
  • European culture

CONS

  • For most of the year, you have to wear a full wetsuit since the water is chilly
  • In the summer months of July and August, the beaches get very crowded

YouTube video

CORNWALL, ENGLAND

 

england surf school

Where is it located: SW tip of England.

 

Focus surf region: Cornwall

 

What makes Cornwall a great place for learning to surf
Cornwall has some of the most stunning beaches and coves in England ( and even Europe). Being well exposed to the Atlantic Ocean means that Cornwall gets plenty of waves. White sandy beaches make it a great place for your first surf lessons.

 

surf school cornwall

One of the surf school companies that we can highly recommend is Cornish Wave. Owned and operated by Jorrin, who also worked at Swell for a winter.

Highly professional, knowledgeable and friendly!

PROS

  • Stunning scenery
  • Sandy beaches
  • Friendly locals

CONS

  • Expensive destination
  • Busy in the European summer months

Video of Cornwall

YouTube video

 

AUSTRALIA, BYRON BAY

 

top surf camps

Where is it located: Easter tip of Australia

 

Focus surf region: North coast of NSW

 

What makes Byron Bay a great place for learning to surf?

Byron Bay has stunning white sandy beaches with a large variety of different surf breaks. There are a good amount of different surf schools to choose from. And if you are between 20 and 30 years old there’s a variety of different hostels/backpackers to choose from. If you want private accommodation, there are some very good hotels.

best surf camps

 

PROS

  • Sandy beaches
  • variety of different surf spots
  • Great beach culture

CONS

  • Busy year round
  • has gotten very expensive in recent years

 

We hope you enjoyed our “Best Surf Camp For Beginners” list. Next month we are focussing on surf camp destinations for intermediate and advanced surfers.
best beginner surf camp

If you have any questions about this article and want to join us in the Dominican Republic for a unique surf holiday:  do send us a message!

best beginner surf camp

 

ABOUT SWELL SURF CAMP

We started Swell Surf Camp in 2009 with a simple vision: to provide unforgettable luxury surf camp holidays in the Caribbean . Our founders are passionate about watersports like surfing, windsurfing, kitesurfing ,and in recent years foiling 

Over the years, we’ve achieved significant milestones. We taught over 9000 guests the sport of surfing; in a fun, safe and quick manner.  We introduced eco-friendly practices in 2015, which resulted in a 30% decrease in our carbon footprint. Our efforts were recognized when we received the “Best Luxury Surf Camp” award from Surf USA Magazine in 2018.

Our core offerings are focused on high-quality surfing experiences combined with luxurious accommodations and personalized coaching. Each guest receives tailored guidance based on their skills, ensuring they make the most out of their stay.

At Swell Surf Camp we are committed to providing top-tier surfing experiences, for surfers of all levels, ages and backgrounds .

Luxury Surf Camp

 

 

Share on Facebook

WHAT LEVEL OF SURFER AM I

surfing encuentro

WHAT LEVEL OF SURFER AM I?

The question of ‘what level of surfer am I?’ inevitably crops up when you are selecting where to travel, and when to travel to a surf destination (tip; if it doesn’t occur to you, it should). After all, most surf destinations/countries have different surf seasons which may suit different surfing abilities.

If they don’t actually have different seasons, then at least there will be different surf breaks and or tides to consider and match up to your own surfing ability.

what level surfer am i

What Level Of Surfer Am I?

Surfing is an exciting sport that takes skill, practice, and a good understanding of your abilities. Knowing your “Level Of Surfer” is key to improving and staying safe in the water.

Surfing levels range from Beginner to Pro, each with its own set of skills and challenges. Swell Bali and Swell Surf Camp are great places for surfers of all levels to learn quickly and safely.

Elements like time spent surfing, the kind of board you use, and wave conditions affect how fast you progress. It’s important to know your real level so you don’t get hurt or stuck at the same skill level because you thought you were better than you are.

With seven different categories – Beginner, Novice, Progressive, Intermediate, Advanced, Expert, and Pro – there’s a lot to discover about where you fit in the surfing world. Finding out can help keep everyone safe on their journey to becoming a better surfer.

Ready to find out more? Keep reading!

Key Takeaways

  • Knowing your surf level is crucial for safety and improvement. It helps you choose the right waves and equipment.
  • Surfing myths, like thinking you’re better than you are, can be dangerous. Always accurately assess your skills to avoid risks.
  • There are different surfing skill levels from beginner to pro. Each level has specific skills, goals, and suitable wave sizes.
  • Continuous learning and setting realistic goals are key to progressing in surfing. Even pros work hard to polish their abilities.
  • Interactive tools and expert coaching can help surfers identify their current level and plan how to improve their skills efficiently.

DON’T OVERESTIMATE YOUR SKILLSET

In our experience, most often a student will class themselves as an ‘intermediate’ surfer when they have had a few surf lessons before, but it’s actually not that straightforward. Overestimating your skillset as a surfer will almost inevitably lead to problems/frustration at the very least, and when the ocean is involved there’s an obvious element of danger too. We really want to avoid giving any student a frightening surf experience which could end up putting them off surfing for life.

what level surfer am i
So for us, there are many things which help define what level of surfing you are at. For example, you might have only been surfing a short time (perhaps a few months), but have been lucky enough to get loads of water time, plus the right surfboard and good surf conditions, in which case your progression could have been quite rapid.

But perhaps like many novice surfers we encounter, they’ve already been trying to surf for a while, but just haven’t managed to make any big ‘leaps’ forward.

This could be for any number of reasons. Some examples would be; regularly visiting a surf break which doesn’t enjoy good waves, and/or going out on a board which is too small, and/or choosing to surf in the wrong conditions (which don’t suit your ability), and/or not being very skilled at wave selection and/or (hopefully not) poor surf instruction initially which might have led to you developing some bad habits.

As a result of all these factors, it’s clearly not reliable to accurately define our level of surfing ability just by considering the length of time you’ve been surfing or the number of surf lessons you have taken.

Instead, we can gauge with far more accuracy what level of surfer you really are by actually assessing the skills you have managed to master so far in the water.

What do we mean by that?

In our many years of experience giving surf lessons at many different levels, we usually find surfers classing themselves in one of the 4 following categories; Beginner, Intermediate, Expert or Pro.

But we don’t agree with only using 4 categories as it takes an awful lot of water time and good conditions to progress from Beginner to Intermediate: It is widely accepted that an Intermediate surfer already possesses a lot of surfing skills.

Surfing

WHY KNOWING YOUR SURFING LEVEL MATTERS

Understanding your surfing proficiency is vital for your development and security on the waves. Overrating your skills may place you in perilous situations where dissatisfaction grows and risks escalate.

A transparent realization of your competency ensures you undertake tasks compatible with your skills, making surfing both secure and pleasurable.

ELEMENTS INFLUENCING SURF CONDITIONS

Local tides play a key role in shaping surf conditions. They affect how waves break at different beaches, making some spots ideal for surfing at high tide and others better at low tide.

Wave formations also greatly influence your surf experience. Whether the waves are tall and fast or small and slow can change not just day to day, but hour by hour.

Your time spent in the water is crucial for improving your level of surfing. The more you surf, the better you’ll understand these changing conditions. Equipment used is another important factor.

Using the right board for your skill level and the current conditions can make a big difference in catching waves successfully.

COMMON SURFING MYTHS

Many surfers think they’re better than they are, which can be dangerous. It’s easy to overjudge your skills and face risks on the water.

THE RISK OF OVERESTIMATING SKILLS

Overestimating skills in surfing can lead to injuries or scary experiences. It’s crucial to assess your abilities accurately for safety and improvement on the water. Surfing above your skill level without proper judgment can result in facing waves you’re not ready for, risking harm both to yourself and others around you.

Knowing where you stand helps keep everyone safe in the surf zone. Surfers who overestimate their prowess might ignore warning signs of dangerous conditions, pushing beyond limits safely managed by their real capabilities.

This mistake emphasizes why an honest evaluation of one’s surfing level is key before paddling out.

HAZARDS LINKED TO MISJUDGING YOUR ABILITIES

Misjudging your surfing capabilities can lead to serious problems in the water. You might confront waves that are excessively large or intense for your current skill level. This risk doesn’t only place you in danger of getting hurt, but it can also put other surfers nearby in harm’s way.

Surf instructors commonly encourage learners to extend slightly beyond their comfort areas. This strategy aids in advancement, but going far past this limit significantly raises the possibility of mishaps.

Opting incorrect wave sizes and styles for your abilities hampers progression. Visualize you feel set for advanced barrel waves when elementary maneuvers still present complications; it’s akin to bypassing rungs on a staircase.

Each mistaken step could imply missing necessary proficiency required to manage demanding conditions securely and methodically.

7 CATEGORIES

For us at Swell, we feel there should actually be 7 stages of surfing. We find it really useful with our surf lessons or surf guiding to very accurately assess someone’s surf skills by using these 7 categories, clearly stating the skills mastered within each stage.

OUR 7 LEVEL OF SURFER LEVELS ARE:

    1. BEGINNER
    2. NOVICE
    3. PROGRESSIVE
    4. INTERMEDIATE
    5. ADVANCED
    6. EXPERT
    7. PRO.

Experts and Pros don’t need our help of course, but we do find the subtle changes and skill sets required, especially to get from the Beginner to the Intermediate stage, are worthy of being defined and given their own name as there are so many nuances to take into account with a surfer’s development, especially in the early stages. Let’s talk about those stages and what they mean to us.

 

SURFER LEVEL COMPARION TABLE

Skill Level Paddling Skills Wave Size Comfort Takeoff Skills Turns & Maneuvers Typical Mistakes
Beginner Struggles with balance and board control Whitewater <1ft

 
Mostly foam-board practice, knees first None Looking down, poor pop-up, bad stance
Novice Can paddle short distances, low efficiency Small green waves (1ft)

 
Inconsistent pop-ups, late takeoffs Occasional trimming Wrong wave angle, hesitant commitment
Progressive Improving paddling strength & positioning 1–2ft green waves

 
More reliable pop-ups, starting to angle Trimming, beginning turns Shoulder chasing, lack of compression
Intermediate Strong paddle control, better positioning 2–3ft waves

 
Confident angled takeoffs Bottom turns, soft cutbacks Stiff style, poor timing
Advanced Efficient, anticipates sets, great duck diving 3–5ft waves

 
Explosive takeoffs, steep drops Top turns, floaters, cutbacks Over-surfing, poor priority awareness
Expert Reads ocean easily, highly efficient paddler 5–8ft waves

 
Late drops, deep positioning Vertical re-entries, combos Pushing limits too far, inconsistent landings
Pro Elite conditioning, unmatched positioning 8ft+ heavy surf

 
Any takeoff, any conditions Aerials, barrels, full repertoire Risk-taking, equipment limitations

SO….WHAT LEVEL OF SURFER ARE YOU?

BEGINNER SURFER

A beginner is exactly that, someone who is just beginning surfing, new to the sport, with no previous surf lessons or surf experience. You will have no idea at all about any aspect of surfing and need complete surf instruction right from the very basics (no shame in that by the way). We love complete beginners at Swell and always give our beginners some exercises they can begin at home to prepare for the rigours of paddling especially, plus tips on how to pop up so that by the time they arrive for their surf holiday/vacation they have a bit of a head start.
beginner surf level

You will be needing to learn:

  • The names of the various parts of the surfboard
  • Aspects of water safety
  • Whether you have a ‘goofy’ stance or a ‘regular’ stance
  • How to lie on the board
  • How to sit on the surfboard in the water
  • How to paddle
  • How to pop-up
  • How it feels to catch a wave and be ‘propelled’
  • How to stand up once you have caught a wave
  • How to improve your stance for balance as the wave carries you
  • Basic theory about how waves are formed
  • How to identify a good wave to catch
  • When to start paddling for the wave

Recommended board for a beginner, adult, average weight :

9’0” long  Soft top surfboard with lots of volume

Ideal wave height:

1′ to 3′ (half a meter to 1 meter) white water / broken waves.

NOVICE

The NOVICE stage applies to you if you have taken some surf lessons before or even visited one or two surf camps in the past and have already mastered the skills listed above. You should also be able to;

Paddle into white water waves or even small green waves unaided (i.e. not being pushed into the wave by someone else)
Able to pop-up on the surfboard and ride for a few meters without falling
Paddle yourself back into position ready for the next wave
Novice surf level

You will be aiming to do the following:

  • Start to read and select waves (learning which ones to leave and which to paddle for)
  • Improve your stance on the surfboard to get ready for;
    trimming (turning slightly) the surfboard to start to ride ‘down the line’ instead of only going in a straight line
  • Learn about surf etiquette

Recommended board for a novice surfer, adult, average weight :

8’0 to 9’0”  Soft or hard top top surfboard

Ideal wave height:

2′ to 4′ (half a meter to 1.2meters) white water / broken waves.

PROGRESSIVE

The progressive stage applies to you if you have already mastered the skills of the BEGINNER AND NOVICE surfer levels above and are now out of the whitewater (i.e. you are now able to ride shoulder/head-high green, unbroken waves). To recap, we would refer to you as a progressive surfer if you can already do the following:

  • Paddle easily out to a break
  • Understand and able to follow priority/surf etiquette in the line-up
  • Read waves and make correct decisions whether or not to take one or not
  • Paddle unaided into chest/head-high waves
  • Pop up quickly with ease
  • Have a good stance on the surfboard
  • Speed up the surfboard on the wave to enable gentle turning:
  • Able to surf a ‘wavy-line’ along the face of a wave, keeping ahead of the whitewater when a wave is not closing out
  • Paddle back out to the line up unaided after taking your wave

Progressive surf level
As a progressive surfer, you will be aiming to achieve the following:

  • Learn how to make a more drastic top turn and bottom turns
  • Taking steeper drops (paddling into larger waves)

Recommended board for a progressive surfer, adult, average weight :

7’0 to 8’0”  Hard top surfboard

Ideal wave height:

2′ to 4′ (half a meter to 1.2meters) unbroken waves.

INTERMEDIATE

An intermediate surfer will have mastered all the skills above; to briefly recap you are an INTERMEDIATE surfer if you can already do the following:

  • Paddle into overhead or larger waves
  • Keep your speed up on a wave to stay ahead of the white water
  • Make more drastic top turns and a bottom turns

As an intermediate surfer, you will probably be aiming to achieve the following:

Intermediate surfer level

  • Learn how to do ‘cutbacks’ (a sharp turn back into the steep part of the wave to make more of a wave’s face)
  • Begin to ‘stall’ yourself on the wave to try to get ‘barrelled’
  • Start learning how to climb on top of the wave’s lip, referred to as a ‘floater’
  • Learn how to come ‘off the lip’ sharply and back into the wave

Recommended board for a progressive surfer, adult, average weight :

6’8″ to 7’8”  Hard top surfboard

Ideal wave height:

3′ to 5′ (1 meter to 1.6meters) unbroken waves.

ADVANCED SURFER LEVEL

A surfer who is at an advanced stage is already able to do the following:

  • Has an excellent wave selection
  • Can make controlled high-speed bottom and top turns
  • Can round-house cutback into the steep part of the wave
  • Can get barrelled in medium-height waves
  • Can easily manage a larger, wider bottom turn to rush ahead of a close-out section and re-enter an unbroken part of the wave
  • Can make off-the-lip manoeuvres
  • Floaters

Advanced surfer level
Recommended board for an advanced surfer, adult, average weight :

6’0″ to 6’8”  Hard top surfboard

Ideal wave height:

4′ to 7′ (1.2 meters to 2 meters) unbroken waves.

EXPERT and PRO LEVELS

Expert surfers, and of course Pro surfers, don’t need to have an explanation of what they can achieve on a wave as they have inevitably mastered all the techniques described above + a lot more. 360’s, aerials and being barrelled in huge waves are usually all in their repertoire.
Expert surfer level

This article is aimed more at explaining the difference between the first 5 stages of surfing so that as a surfer with less experience, you can let surf camps or surf hotels like us correctly judge where we should be advising you to surf, what type of surf lesson you might need, or whether you are better off just going out with a surf guide.

Recommended board for an advanced surfer, adult, average weight :

5’5″ to 6’5”  Hard top surfboard

Ideal wave height:

5′ and up

DON’T RUSH, SURFING TAKES TIME

It’s a really terrible idea to overstate your surf experience; not least because you will very likely end up in the wrong surf spot for your ability which can inevitably lead to serious injury, or worse.

Having a frightening experience in waves too large for your skillset can set you back for months if not years. Any good surf coach or guide will quickly progress you through stages if they can see you are able: Noone is going to deliberately hold you back and many surf coaches will naturally push you a little out of your comfort zone as that is generally how we all progress. Surfing is a life-long commitment of learning: Even Pro’s will tell you they are still honing/improving skills on every single wave they take.

We are in the process of making an interactive level guide to help you identify your current surfing-skill set.

Once you have correctly established where you are in your stages of learning, come and see us at Swell Surf Camp in the Dominican Republic. The North coast of the Dominican republic is one of the world’s best destinations for beginner surfers. We’d love to help you keep getting better! Our luxury surf coaching holidays have taught 1000’s of people the sport of surfing in a safe, fun and quick way. If you need any more assistance in ‘diagnosing’ your surf level, just drop us a line and we will try to help out.

Surf Holiday

We hope you like this article of “what level of surfer am I?” if you do, you might also like the following article: different surfboard and which boards are best suited at which stage of your surfing level, have a look at this page: Different surfboards
Our luxury surf coaching holidays have taught 1000’s of people the sport of surfing in a safe, fun and quick way.

QUESTIONS

No results!
  • WHAT ARE THE 7 DIFFERENT SURFING LEVELS AND HOW DO THEY DIFFER?

    Swell Surf Camp categorizes surfers into 7 distinct levels: Beginner, Novice, Progressive, Intermediate, Advanced, Expert, and Pro. Unlike traditional 4-level systems, this detailed classification helps accurately assess your surfing abilities. Beginners start in whitewater waves under 1ft, learning basic pop-ups and balance. Novices progress to small green waves (1ft) with inconsistent takeoffs. Progressive surfers handle 1-2ft green waves and begin angling. Intermediate surfers confidently surf 2-3ft waves with bottom turns and cutbacks. Advanced surfers tackle 3-5ft waves with vertical re-entries and floaters. Expert and Pro levels handle 5ft+ waves with aerial maneuvers and barrel riding. This comprehensive system ensures safer progression and appropriate wave selection for your skill level.

  • HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO PROGRESS FROM BEGINNER TO INTERMEDIATE SURFER?

    Progression from beginner to intermediate typically requires 20-50 hours of quality water time, depending on several factors. Consistent practice, proper instruction, appropriate wave conditions, and correct equipment significantly accelerate learning. Many surfers plateau because they surf poor waves, use inappropriate boards, or lack proper coaching. At Swell Surf Camp, structured lessons in ideal Dominican Republic conditions often achieve faster progression than months of unsupervised practice. Key factors affecting timeline include: frequency of surf sessions, wave quality, board selection, physical fitness, and instruction quality. Some students progress rapidly with intensive coaching, while others need patient, methodical skill building. The journey from catching whitewater to performing cutbacks on green waves involves mastering numerous technical and ocean awareness skills. Quality instruction and honest self-assessment ensure steady, safe progression through each level.

  • HOW DO I KNOW IF I'M OVERESTIMATING MY SURFING ABILITY?

    Overestimating your surf level is dangerous and common - many surfers classify themselves as "intermediate" after just a few lessons. Warning signs include: struggling with consistent pop-ups, inability to catch unbroken green waves, poor wave selection, or feeling overwhelmed in shoulder-high surf. At Swell Surf Camp, we assess actual skills rather than time surfing or lesson count. Key indicators of overestimation include paddling struggles, late takeoffs, looking down while surfing, and poor stance. Honest self-assessment prevents dangerous situations, injuries, and frustrating surf experiences. Use our detailed skill benchmarks - if you can't consistently perform all skills in a level, you're not ready for the next one. Professional surf instruction helps identify your true level safely.

  • WHAT ARE THE MOST COMMON MISTAKES SURFERS MAKE WHEN SELF-ASSESSING THEIR LEVEL?

    The most frequent mistake is classifying yourself as "intermediate" after only a few surf lessons or vacation sessions.

    Many surfers focus solely on time spent surfing rather than actual skills mastered, leading to dangerous overestimation.

    Common errors include: confusing standing up in whitewater with true wave riding, believing board size doesn't matter for progression, and ignoring surf etiquette and safety knowledge. At Swell Surf Camp, we see students who think they're intermediate but struggle with consistent pop-ups, proper stance, or catching unbroken waves. Other mistakes include judging ability based on one good session rather than consistent performance, and overlooking crucial skills like wave selection and lineup positioning.

    Physical factors also mislead - being a strong swimmer doesn't automatically make you an advanced surfer. Our detailed skill benchmarks prevent these assessment errors by evaluating actual surfing competencies rather than assumptions or isolated experiences.

  • WHAT WAVE SIZE SHOULD I SURF BASED ON MY SURFING LEVEL?

    Wave size recommendations vary significantly by skill level for safety and progression. Beginners should stick to 1-3ft whitewater/broken waves to master basic pop-ups and balance. Novice surfers can handle 2-4ft whitewater while learning wave selection. Progressive surfers graduate to 2-4ft unbroken green waves for angling and trimming practice. Intermediate surfers confidently surf 3-5ft unbroken waves, performing turns and cutbacks. Advanced surfers tackle 4-7ft waves with complex maneuvers like floaters and barrel riding. Expert surfers handle 5-8ft powerful surf with vertical re-entries. Pro surfers surf 8ft+ heavy conditions with aerial maneuvers. Surfing waves too large for your level leads to injuries and setbacks. At Swell Surf Camp, our instructors carefully match students with appropriate wave conditions for safe, accelerated learning.

  • WHAT SKILLS MUST I MASTER TO BECOME AN INTERMEDIATE SURFER?

    Becoming an intermediate surfer requires mastering specific technical and ocean skills beyond basic wave catching. You must paddle confidently into chest/head-high waves, execute quick pop-ups, and maintain proper stance. Wave reading becomes crucial - you need excellent wave selection and priority understanding in lineups. Intermediate surfers consistently catch unbroken green waves, angle their takeoffs, and trim down wave faces ahead of whitewater. Essential maneuvers include bottom turns, top turns, and cutbacks.

    You should paddle efficiently to lineups, demonstrate proper surf etiquette, and handle various wave conditions.

    At Swell Surf Camp, intermediate students work on speed control, stalling techniques for barrel sections, and floater maneuvers. This level demands ocean confidence, equipment knowledge, and refined technique - not just time in water. Professional assessment ensures you've truly mastered each prerequisite skill before progression.

  • WHAT SURFBOARD SHOULD I USE FOR MY SURFING LEVEL?

    Surfboard selection directly impacts your progression and safety in the water. Beginners need 9'0" soft-top surfboards with maximum volume for stability and safety. Novice surfers use 8'0"-9'0" soft or hard-top boards as they transition to green waves. Progressive surfers benefit from 7'0"-8'0" hard-top surfboards for better maneuverability. Intermediate surfers ride 6'8"-7'8" boards to practice advanced turns. Advanced surfers use 6'0"-6'8" performance boards for critical maneuvers. Expert and Pro levels ride 5'5"-6'5" high-performance shortboards. Using boards too small for your level severely hampers progression - volume and length provide crucial stability for skill development. At Swell Surf Camp, we provide appropriate boards for each level and teach you how equipment affects your surfing performance and safety.

  • WHAT MAKES SWELL SURF CAMP DIFFERENT FOR LEARNING TO ASSESS AND IMPROVE SURFING LEVELS?

    Swell Surf Camp pioneered the luxury surf instruction model specifically for beginners and intermediate surfers.

    Our detailed 7-level assessment system provides more accurate skill evaluation than traditional 4-level classifications. Located in Cabarete, Dominican Republic, we offer consistent, beginner-friendly waves year-round with professional instruction from passionate coaches. Our systematic approach combines detailed skill benchmarks, appropriate equipment for each level, and structured progression pathways.

    Since 2009, we've taught over 9,000 people using our proven methodology emphasizing safety, fun, and accelerated learning.

    Our instructors expertly match students with suitable wave conditions and provide real-time feedback for rapid improvement. The luxury accommodations, gourmet meals, and social atmosphere create an ideal learning environment. We offer interactive assessment tools and personalized coaching to accurately identify your current level and plan your progression path efficiently.

  • WHY IS ACCURATE SURF LEVEL ASSESSMENT CRUCIAL FOR SAFETY?

    Accurate surf level assessment prevents injuries, drowning risks, and traumatic experiences that can end surfing careers. Overestimating abilities leads to dangerous wave selection - beginners attempting overhead surf face serious consequences. Misjudging your level also endangers other surfers through poor lineup positioning and wave priority violations. At Swell Surf Camp, we've seen students set back months or years by frightening experiences in waves beyond their abilities. Proper assessment ensures appropriate surf spots, correct equipment selection, and suitable instruction levels. It also prevents the frustration of plateauing due to unrealistic expectations. Our 7-level system provides precise skill benchmarks, allowing safe progression while building confidence. Professional assessment by experienced instructors identifies your true abilities and creates appropriate learning pathways for continuous improvement.

Share on Facebook

SURFBOARDS FOR BEGINNERS

surfboards for beginners

BEST SURFBOARDS FOR BEGINNERS

HOW TO PICK A SUITABLE BEGINNER SURF BOARD

Now that you’ve had your first surfing lessons and have decided to continue your surfing career, how do you go about buying your first surfboards for beginners? How do you decide on what to buy?

You might get objective advice from some staff at the surf shop, but there are those who’re ready to sell anything to you, just to get their commission… or you might end up with a salesperson that knows next to nothing about surfing.

Our best surfboards for beginners recommendations in this article will be determined by certain factors – where you surf, how often you surf, and if & how often you travel for surfing.

VOLUME & BEGINNER SURFBOARDS

Volume is the most important factor when choosing surfboard for a beginner. A board with lots of volume will float better which makes it easier for learners to get to their feet and catch the waves.

Surfboard Volume
Different surfboards & their volume

A lot of people make this mistake when purchasing their first surfboard. Minimals, foam boards and longboards come with lots of volume, Shortboards and any surfboard under 6’6”, not so much.

Volume is usually measured in litres. We think a great beginner surfboard should have at least 60 litres of volume – and even better if there’s more. A minimal longboard surfboard could have between 65-80 litres or more volume. Now let’s compare it to one of those performance shortboard used by surf professionals… which might have about 6’1 x 18 ¼ inch shortboards. Its volume should be about 25 litres. If you want to enjoy a board as small as that, you’ll need a lot of surfing technique and the right waves.

Something we see on a regular basis here at Swell is from people with Snowboard experience, they assume that because they are good snowboarders: learning to surf will be easy and quick for them too. As a result, they want to skip the phase of learning on a bigger board. This will not speed up your surfing learning curve: in fact, it will do the opposite. You have to learn the basics: Paddle technique – catching waves – Riding the white water; All these things are best done on surfboard with more than 60 litres of volume.

MORE WAVES = MORE PROGRESS = MORE FUN!

Another common mistake is that after dealing with a big longboard in the water for a few days and seeing experienced surfers on their short boards, is to ‘blame their slow progress on the longboard. Yes, a long beginner’s board is not easy to turn, duck dive, or handle in white water. In the beginning of your surf career, it’s not able to take on big waves or make nice turns. In the beginning of your surfing, you should focus on 1 thing: catching as many waves as you can. Catching more waves = Quicker Progress = More fun!

surfing holiday

What you will want as a beginning surfer is to catch waves – starting from the white water, then moving to unbroken ‘green’ waves. And if you want to achieve this as a beginner, you’ll need to get a surfboard with lots of volume. So, at this stage, volume is the most important thing you need in a surfboard.

Durability is another factor to consider for beginner surfboards because you’ll probably end up knocking the board around a bit while you’re learning, which is why you might want to go with something durable.

BEGINNER SURFBOARDS CONSTRUCTION TYPES

SOFT TOP SURFBOARD

Beginner surfboards

These boards come with a soft layer of foam atop them with a slick plastic layer at the bottom.

Extremely durable

They don’t come with sharp points, which makes them safer

Best value for money

Used by practically all the surf schools

 

MOLDED EPOXY SANDWICH TYPE OF CONSTRUCTION

Epoxy molded surfboard

Bic, NSP & Torq ( which are surfboard brands we use for our Hardtops at Swell) are some of the common brands with this construction type. Although a lot of other brands use similar constructions, they are sometimes called “Pop-outs” because of the mould used for shaping the board’s core.

  • Very durable
  • They usually come with removable fins, which are compatible with systems like FCS or Future Fins
  • Great value is often found in packages with leash & board bags
  • Proven surfboard shapes

TRADITIONAL POLYESTER RESIN

Polyester surfboard

This has been the standard construction for surfboards for years. This surfboard has a soft foam blank shaped into it and layers of fibreglass cloth and polyester resin laminated across the top to give it a harder outer shell and make it more watertight.

  • Fairly lightweight
  • Looks every inch like the traditional surfboard
  • Available in different shapes and sizes
  • Comes with removable fins that are easily replaced
  • Dings and Cracks easily, but can also easily be repaired
  • Turns yellow-ish after a few months in the sun

EPOXY RESIN SURFBOARD

Shaping surfboard
Custom shaping an epoxy surfboard

This board is similar to the polyester boards but with a different foam for its epoxy resin and core, including a fibreglass cloth outer layer.

    • It is lighter than those polyester resin surfboards
    • More durable than polyester resin surfboards
    • Shaped like those traditional surfboards
    • Available in every shape and size
    • Comes with removable fins that are easy to replace
    • Can easily be repaired if cracked or dinged
    • Epoxy boards are lighter boards & more crack-resistant, and their outer layer is more likely to bend, not split when struck by something.

Those are the major types of construction out there, so now you understand the advantages of each construction. You can put this information into consideration when considering the shape of surfboard to pick.

RECOMMENDED SURFBOARDS FOR BEGINNERS

FOAMBOARD/ FOAMIE: LENGTH 7FT – 9FT

Surfboards for beginners

THE GOOD STUFF OF FOAM SURFBOARDS

Quite affordable

Very stable

Soft – which is safer in case you get hit by your board

Great to surf the white-water

Can easily catch most waves

THE DOWNSIDE OF FOAMIES:

Pretty heavy

Not much difference between its price and that of hard surfboards

Not great for surfing shoulder-high waves

Not easy to paddle out in bigger surfs

Not very responsive to the surfer’s input

Will not provide long-term fun

What we think of foam surfboards

Foam surfboards can be found in 6 and 7ft (for kids and folks that are lighter) including 8 and 8ft versions. The smallest length for a regular adult to lean on is 8ft. However, you should know that there are quite a number of low-quality, cheap and badly constructed foamies for sale on sites like Ali express and eBay.

PERFECT BEGINNER SURFBOARDS

Foamies are perfect for people who have never surfed before or are in their first stages of learning to surf so make a perfect first surfboard.

However, if you are going to surf on a regular basis you will grow out of the soft top with 5 to 15 surf sessions and want to move onto a hardtop, so our advice is to rent a soft top at your local surf school or join a surf camp like Swell and then move onto the hardtop boards like the ones listed below

FIBERGLASS PU OR EPOXY LONG BOARD: LENGTH 8FT – 9FT+

beginner surfboard

THE GOOD STUFF

It is faster and easier to manoeuvre than those foam boards

Can be used to learn longboard moves such as hanging 5, cross stepping, etc.

Can be used to surf bigger head waves (provided you can actually paddle out)

Should have good resale value if you ever want to sell

Some people are so in love with longboards that they want to surf forever on them

THE DOWNSIDE

If it is over 8ft long it won’t fit in most cars

Quite bulky to carry around

The fact that it is hard means it will hurt more if it hits you compared to foam boards

Harder to catch waves with them than foam boards

Most airlines don’t allow passengers to check in longboards because of their length

They work better with unbroken ‘green’ waves because they’re not designed to ride white water.

Our Thoughts:

These boards are great for intermediate surfers who want to progress from their first surf lessons on a soft top

This board will keep you entertained for 1 or 2 seasons so you can learn all the surfing fundamentals

Some People love the glide and feel of these boards that they never move onto a shorter board but will stick with this length and type of surfboards for the rest of their surfing career.

Verdict: Recommended as first surfboard/

Worth noting: Not every ‘long’ board is a suitable board for a beginner. There are a lot of high-performance longboards on the market which are geared toward the expert longboarder, they are not very good to learn on. Ask at your local surf shop or bring a friend who can tell the difference.

MINI-MAL SURFBOARDS: LENGTH 7’4 – 8’0

Mini Mal Surfboard

THE GOOD STUFF

The board is smaller so you can easily carry it around

You can fit a 7’6 into a small car

Easier to paddle it in bigger surfs compared to large foam boards

It is also quite progressive, so you can actually enjoy this board for a while

There are people who will rather surf on minimal shaped surfboards

Can be taken on planes – i.e. airlines with an 8ft limit

THE DOWNSIDE

More difficult to catch waves compared to foamies or long boards

They’re not so soft, so you might want to avoid getting hit with them

A minimal board is still a large board so it might be a little difficult to navigate high waves (though it is advisable to stick to smaller waves if you’re a beginner).

They’re slower than the smaller surfboards

Our Thoughts:

Not a bad board for someone to buy after they have had 5 or so sessions on a soft top, however, works best in this size range for lighter men, women or kids.

Verdict: Recommended as a first surfboard for any surfer!

FUN SHAPES

Fun shaped surfboards like minimals are smaller versions of longboards without their middle 2ft.
Comes with thruster and single fin options

THE GOOD STUFF

They’re easier to carry since they’re lighter than foamies and large long boards

These boards which are a little smaller than minimals are faster and easier to paddle out when the surf becomes bigger

Small enough to meet the requirements of most airlines

It is also quite progressive, so you can actually enjoy this board for a while

It is quite popular among surfers, so it has great resale value

It can fit into most cars

THE DOWNSIDE

It doesn’t have as much volume as a long board, so it would require a little more effort to actually catch waves

It is harder to learn on this board than on a longer board

Have to be surfed in more critical parts of the wave to generate enough speed and lift

Our Thoughts:

Not the quickest way to progress in your surfing, you will catch fewer waves and most likely have shorter rides than on the boards listed above. On the plus side, they do cater to a large variety of surf conditions

Verdict: Not ideal but can work as a first surfboard purchase

SHORT BOARDS

Short surf board

THE GOOD STUFF

Great designs at affordable prices

More manoeuvrable and faster than all the other boards mentioned above (fun boards, foamies, minimals and long boards).

They are light and easy to manoeuvre

Easier to duck dive with them under waves whenever you’re paddling out

Can surf both small waist high and overhead waves

They’re small enough to fit the requirements of most airlines

THE DOWNSIDE

Beginners catch very few waves

Waves need to be caught and surfed in the critical part of the wave

Very unstable in small waves

Our Thoughts:

Unless you are young, light and/ or a very very quick progressing surfer with lots of talent, it is not recommended to buy a small shortboard as your first surfboard. You will struggle learning the basics and the gap from a soft-top foamie to a shortboard is huge

Verdict: Don’t buy a standard shortboard as your first surfboard when you are still a beginner / intermediate surfer.

Our final thoughts on the best surfboards for beginners

Buying a surfboard is always a compromise, at the stage of your surf career, every surfboard has different characteristics: some work better in hollow waves, some work better in big waves etc. Starting off your first season as a surfer, we think one of the most important aspects of your surfing should be to catch as many waves as possible.

Bigger boards work well in being able to catch lots of waves and providing good stability once you are up and riding. Yes, shortboards are better for advanced manoeuvres, but…. if you can’t catch the waves in the first place you will not be pulling any fancy moves at all.

Lots of surf shops are also affiliated with a local surf school ( or run one themselves), so ask them if it’s possible to try a certain board from their rental pool before buying it.

Volume is your friend: more volume = more waves = more fun!

HOW DO I MAINTAIN AND CARE FOR MY SURFBOARD

Taking good care of your surfboard will help it last longer and perform better. Here are some simple tips to keep your board in top shape:

  1. Rinse with fresh water: After each surf session, rinse your board with fresh water to remove salt and sand.

  2. Store properly: Keep your surfboard in a cool, shaded area. Avoid direct sunlight, as it can damage the board’s material.

  3. Use a board bag: A board bag can protect your surfboard from dings and scratches during transport.

  4. Repair dings promptly: If you notice any dings or cracks, fix them as soon as possible to prevent water from seeping in.

  5. Avoid dragging: Always carry your board; dragging it can cause unnecessary wear and tear.

  6. Check the fins: Make sure the fins are secure and not damaged. Loose or broken fins can affect your surfing.

  7. Wax regularly: Keep your board waxed for better grip. Remove old wax before applying a new layer.

By following these steps, you can ensure your surfboard stays in great condition for many surf sessions to come.

QUICK QUESTIONS ABOUT BEGINNER SURFBOARDS

No results!
  • HOW LONG SHOULD A BEGINNER SURFBOARD BE?

    Aim for something around 8 to 9 feet, or roughly three feet taller than you. That size gives you tons of float, paddling speed, and the stability you need when you’re trying to stand up for the first time. It’s a no-brainer if you want to learn faster.

  • WHEN IS IT TIME TO MOVE ON FROM MY BEGINNER SURFBOARD?

    When catching waves on your soft board gets boring and you’re itching for speed or sharper turns— that’s the sign. You'll know: the board won’t hold you back anymore; you’ll be holding back your board.

  • WHAT KIND OF SURFBOARD FOR BEGINNERS IS EASIEST TO LEARN ON?

    Soft-top foam boards—or “foamies”—are hands down the safest, simplest boards to start on. They’re forgiving, buoyant, and much less painful when you inevitably smack your face. Ideal for catching your first waves.

  • HOW MUCH SHOULD I EXPECT TO SPEND ON A GOOD SURFBOARD FOR BEGINNERS?

    Expect to pay $200–$400 for a decent soft-top. Want something lighter or built to last? Epoxy or high-volume funboards cost more—$500–$800—but that’s only worth it once you know you want to stick with surfing.

  • DO I NEED FINS AND A LEASH ON A BEGINNER SURFBOARD?

    Absolutely. Fins give you control and stop you from spinning like a cork. A leash keeps the board attached, so you’re not swimming after it every wipeout. Both are non-negotiable if you actually want to learn without losing half your session.

  • I’M WATCHING MY BUDGET—SHOULD I BUY A NEW OR USED BEGINNER SURFBOARD?

    uying used can save you a chunk, but don’t get a board full of unseen dings. If you go new, stick with a soft-top from a reputable surf shop—we sell ones that cost about as much as a night of dinner and drinks but will help you catch waves all summer. Just don’t let commission-driven advice cloud your judgement.

  • HOW DO FOAM SURFBOARDS COMPARE TO FIBERGLASS OR EPOXY ONES?

    Foamies = gentle, bouncy learning platforms. Stores are forgiving. Fiberglass or epoxy boards are stiffer, faster, and feel more “alive”—but unforgiving if you bail too hard or catch your rail on your knee.

  • CAN KIDS USE THE SAME SURFBOARD FOR BEGINNERS AS ADULTS?

    Not really. Kids need smaller soft-tops—around 6 to 7 feet—so they can actually carry the thing down the beach. They still need float, but not a boat-sized log. Foam boards are perfect for safety and confidence.

  • HOW DO I MAKE MY BEGINNER BOARD LAST LONGER?

    Wash with fresh water after every session, stash it in the shade when you’re done, wax regularly, and check for dings before they become disasters. A little love goes a long way—especially if you don’t want to spend your next paycheck on a replacement.

ABOUT SWELL SURF CAMP

Located on the scenic north coast of the Dominican Republic is our purpose-built surf resort with a learn to surf package beginner surf camp package

We cater for surfers of all levels, from beginners to expert surfers who are looking for an active surf holiday

We at Swell offers full surf packages holidays

Interested in learning how to surf? Have a look at the surf vacation packages we offer for our guests at Swell Surf camp

MORE SURFBOARD INFO

Different surfboard shapes explained

Our luxury surf coaching holidays have taught 1000’s of people the sport of surfing in a safe, fun and quick way.

Share on Facebook

IMPROVE YOUR SURFING AT HOME

Surf Fitness

HOW TO PRACTICE SURFING WHEN THERE ARE NO WAVES

Just back from an amazing surf holiday where you caught wave after perfect wave and made real progress with your surf coaching? Now you’re stuck at home—miles from the ocean—thinking: how on earth do I keep my surfing skills sharp with no waves in sight?

Don’t sweat it! While nothing truly replaces the feeling of gliding across actual waves, you absolutely can maintain your surf fitness and even improve between trips with some clever land-based training. Here’s my take on staying surf-ready when the ocean’s too far away.

WATCH AND ANALYZE SURF VIDEOS

One of my favorite ways to build on what you learned during surf coaching is to really dive into watching surf videos—not just zoning out to cool footage, but actively studying what’s happening. Pay close attention to how surfers position their bodies, where they place their weight on the board, and especially their timing.

Try breaking down the techniques of pro surfers or review footage from your last surf retreat. At Swell Surf Camp, we always incorporate video analysis because it’s incredible how quickly people improve when they can actually see what they’re doing right or wrong.

Don’t have videos of yourself? No worries! Get your surf fix from films like Lost Track Atlantic, Castles in the Sky, or The Physics of Noseriding to stay connected to that surf energy.

FOLLOW A SURF-SPECIFIC HOME WORKOUT

A good surf holiday leaves you feeling strong and energized—but maintaining that feeling takes consistent effort. Surfing demands this unique combination of balance, core strength, endurance, and flexibility that you can absolutely work on at home.

Try mixing these exercises into your routine:

  • Paddle power: Mix up push-ups, planks, and yoga poses like Downward Dog to build those crucial shoulder and core muscles.
  • Pop-up drills: Incorporate squats, lunges, and Pilates “swimming” exercises to boost your leg strength and mobility.
  • Balance work: Practice wall sits and single-leg exercises to develop that dynamic stability you need when you’re riding a wave.

Honestly, with just a yoga mat and a couple of resistance bands, you can keep that surf fitness going strong until your next surf retreat.

IMPROVE BALANCE WITH A BALANCE BOARD

A balance board (something like an Indo Board) is practically a must-have for landlocked surfers—and for good reason. It recreates that feeling of having a surfboard moving beneath your feet, helping you build better coordination and strengthen those crucial lower-body muscles.

YouTube video

I like to use a balance board while watching surf videos, or sometimes challenge myself by holding a medicine ball as I balance. This kind of practice keeps those surf-specific muscles engaged and ready for your next session.

MASTER SURF FORECASTING

If you’re investing in surf coaching or planning your next surf holiday, learning to read a surf forecast properly is a total game-changer.

Sure, wave cams and live reports are handy, but developing your own forecasting skills—really understanding swell direction, period, wind patterns, and tides—gives you a serious edge. Not only will you know when to surf, but you’ll also understand why conditions are working (or not).

Check out some detailed guides or take an online surf forecasting course. Your surf buddies will be impressed by your knowledge next time you’re all hitting the beach together.

WORK ON YOUR POP-UP TECHNIQUE

The pop-up is truly the foundation of everything in surfing, and it’s something you can nail down perfectly on dry land.

Just lay down a yoga mat or towel, get into your paddling position, and practice popping up smoothly into a solid surf stance. Focus on making your movements fluid and controlled, aiming for about 10–20 reps each session to build that crucial muscle memory.

This simple drill is a staple in most surf coaching programs because it trains your body to move efficiently when you’re back in the water—it’s simple but so effective.

SWIM LAPS FOR PADDLE STRENGTH

Swimming is hands-down one of the best cross-training workouts for surfers. It boosts your cardio fitness, strengthens all those paddling muscles, and helps improve your breath control—all crucial skills in the lineup.

Surf Swim Training

If you’re gearing up for a surf retreat or surf holiday, regular swimming sessions will help you stay fit and confident in the water. Try adding some duck dives or turtle rolls during your laps to make your training even more surf-specific.

TRY SURF SKATING

Surf skateboards are designed specifically to mimic those fluid turns and carves you do on a wave, making them an awesome tool for practicing on land.

Use surf skating to fine-tune your balance, footwork, and those wave-reading instincts. Just keep in mind: while surf skating complements your surfing beautifully, it shouldn’t replace your other cross-training. Mix it into your routine for the best all-around approach.

YouTube video

FINAL THOUGHTS: STAY SURF-READY BETWEEN TRIPS

Whether you’re counting down to your next surf retreat, dreaming of your perfect surf holiday, or just trying to build on what you learned in your surf coaching sessions, there’s absolutely no reason to let those flat spells or time away from the ocean set you back.

By combining thoughtful video analysis, targeted home workouts, balance training, and regular swimming, you can maintain—and even improve—your surf fitness and technique year-round.

Stay consistent, keep that stoke alive—and when you finally make it back to the ocean, you’ll be ready to paddle straight into the lineup with confidence.

ABOUT SWELL

Looking for that perfect mix of surfing, adventure, and relaxation? Swell Surf Camp offers one of the most unique and memorable surf holidays you’ll ever experience. Whether you’re just getting started or you’ve been surfing for years, Swell provides a tailored surf retreat that goes way beyond what you’d expect from an average surf camp.

EXPERT SURF COACHING FOR ALL LEVELS

At the heart of every Swell Surf Camp experience is our exceptional surf coaching program. Our instructors don’t just push you into waves—they focus on teaching you how to read the ocean, position yourself correctly, and time your takeoffs perfectly. Through personalized feedback and optional video analysis, you’ll progress faster than you thought possible and gain real confidence in your abilities. Whether you’re learning to stand up for the first time or working on more advanced maneuvers, our team is dedicated to helping you unlock your full potential.

A STYLISH AND COMFORTABLE SURF RETREAT

Swell Surf Camp’s accommodations strike that perfect balance between style, comfort, and social connection. Think spacious communal areas, a refreshing pool, lush tropical gardens, and beautifully designed private rooms—all just minutes from consistent surf breaks. Every element of our camp is thoughtfully crafted to create a premium surf retreat experience, where you can properly recharge between sessions and connect with like-minded travelers from around the world.

swell wingfoil camp

BEYOND THE SURF

A surf holiday at Swell isn’t just about time in the water. You can join revitalizing yoga sessions that improve your balance and flexibility, participate in cultural excursions to explore the local area, or simply relax by the pool with a fresh smoothie in hand. You’ll also enjoy healthy, delicious meals that nourish your body and fuel your surf sessions. It’s a truly holistic experience designed to help you feel your absolute best both on and off the board.

BOOK YOUR SURF HOLIDAY TODAY

Ready to take your surfing to the next level, connect with incredible people, and experience a surf holiday unlike any other? Swell Surf Camp is waiting for you. Whether you’re traveling solo, as a couple, or with friends, this is truly the ultimate destination for anyone seeking a transformative surf retreat. Book now and get ready to ride amazing waves, make unforgettable memories, and experience the Swell life firsthand!

Share on Facebook

TOP TIPS FOR IMPROVING YOUR SURFING

top surfing tips

There are few things that compare to the amazing feeling of surfing, just as there are few things that are as frustrating as not getting it right and plateauing. We have collected our best tips to help you to improve your surfing techniques and get better at surfing!

Key Takeaways

  • Choosing the right surfboard is crucial; consider your skill level and understand the different types of surfboards available.
  • Improving your balance on the board can be achieved by practicing yoga and focusing on core strength.
  • Reading the waves effectively involves understanding wave patterns, identifying rip currents, and learning to position yourself correctly.
  • Enhancing your paddling technique requires improving arm strength, perfecting timing and cadence, and using proper body positioning.
  • Always prioritize safety by knowing your limits, being aware of other surfers, understanding the beach you are surfing at, and seeking advice from local surfers about the surf conditions.

Choosing the Right Surfboard

Selecting the appropriate surfboard is crucial for enhancing your surfing experience. Having the right surfboard under your feet can make all the difference in how you perform and enjoy the waves.

YouTube video

Improving Your Balance on the Board

surf yoga

Practice Yoga for Stability

Yoga is an excellent way to enhance your balance and stability on the surfboard. Incorporating poses that focus on core strength and flexibility can significantly improve your surfing performance. Poses like the tree pose and warrior pose help in building the necessary muscle memory and stability required for surfing.

Focus on Core Strength

A strong core is essential for maintaining balance while surfing. Exercises such as planks, Russian twists, and leg raises can help in strengthening your core muscles. A well-developed core not only aids in balance but also enhances your overall control over the board.

Consistent practice of these exercises will make balancing on the board second nature, allowing you to focus more on enjoying the waves.

Reading the Waves

Understanding Wave Patterns

Recognizing wave patterns is crucial for any surfer. Spend time observing your local surf breaks and notice how waves form and break. This will help you predict the best times to catch a wave.

Identifying Rip Currents

Rip currents can be dangerous, but they can also be useful for getting out past the breaking waves. Learn to identify them by looking for areas where the water appears darker and channels back out to sea.

Learning to Position Yourself

Positioning yourself correctly in the lineup is key to catching more waves. Watch experienced surfers and see where they sit and take off. This will give you a better idea of where you need to be.

Spend time at your local surf breaks and observe the waves to improve your understanding and positioning.

Enhancing Your Paddling Technique

Improving your paddling technique is crucial for a better surfing experience. A strong paddling technique not only helps you catch more waves but also conserves your energy for when you need it most. Here are some tips to enhance your paddling skills.

Safety Tips for Surfing

surfing tips

Know Your Limits

Always be aware of your own skill level and don’t push yourself too far beyond it. Surfing in conditions that are too challenging can lead to accidents and injuries.

Be Aware of Other Surfers

Respect the right of way and keep a safe distance from other surfers. This helps prevent collisions and ensures a more enjoyable experience for everyone.

Know The Beach You Are Surfing

Familiarize yourself with the specific beach you are surfing at. Each beach has unique characteristics, such as wave patterns and potential hazards, that you should be aware of.

Ask Local Surfers Advice About The Surf Conditions

Local surfers often have valuable insights about the current surf conditions. Don’t hesitate to ask them for advice, as their knowledge can help you stay safe and make the most of your surfing session.

surf improve faster

Conclusion

Improving your surfing is a journey that combines the right equipment, physical fitness, wave knowledge, and safety awareness. By choosing the right surfboard for your skill level, enhancing your balance and paddling techniques, and understanding the intricacies of wave patterns and surf conditions, you can significantly elevate your surfing experience. Remember, the key is to practice consistently, challenge yourself, and always prioritize safety. With these tips, you’ll be well on your way to catching more waves and enjoying the exhilarating feeling of riding them.

Frequently Asked Questions

What type of surfboard is best for beginners?

For beginners, a soft longboard with more volume is ideal. It provides better stability and makes it easier to catch waves.

How can I improve my balance on a surfboard?

Practicing yoga and focusing on core strength can significantly improve your balance on a surfboard.

What should I look for when reading waves?

Understanding wave patterns and identifying rip currents are crucial. Learning to position yourself correctly will also help you catch more waves.

How can I enhance my paddling technique?

Improving arm strength, perfecting your timing and cadence, and using proper body position are key to enhancing your paddling technique.

What are some safety tips for surfing?

Always know your limits, be aware of other surfers, familiarize yourself with the beach, and ask local surfers for advice on surf conditions.

How often should I surf to improve my skills?

The more you surf, the better you will get. Try to go out as often as possible, even if the conditions aren’t perfect, to keep your body and mind used to the movement.

About

At Swell we have been teaching people to surf, using our own unique method of teaching to get our guests to make quick, safe progress in a fun way. Interested in learning to surf? Or Improving your surfing skills? Have a look at the different surf holiday packages we offer and join us in the caribbean for a week of sun, surf and good vibes

Share on Facebook

SWELL MARCH 2024

surfer holiday

SWELL NEWS

surf holiday

WHAT’S BEEN GOING ON AT SWELL SURF CAMP.

We haven’t posted many updates on our website, since we have been right in the middle of a very busy high season here on the North coast of the Dominican Republic.

We have pretty much had a full house at Swell From December until now (March 2024). The majority of the clients came from North America And West Europe.

THE SURF CONDITIONS.

The conditions for learn to surf and for intermediate surfers to improve their surfing have been great with lots of days of waves in the chest to shoulder high range. The surf Instructor team is going steady with our 5 qualified surf instructors, meaning that most swell clients were in a surf lesson with a 4 to 1 student ratio or less.

surfing yoga retreat

 

YOGA CLASSES AT SWELL
surfing yoga retreat

Molly’s Yoga classes have always been popular, but this season were are seeing that 70 to 80% of our clients join in with the Swell Yoga classes. The yoga classes are accessible to people with all levels of Yoga. First-timers have loved the classes.

surfing lessons

THINKING ABOUT JOINING US?

Clare still has some dates open for April and May if you are in need of sun, surf and good vibes, send here a message today and you could be out in the Caribbean soon.

 

paradise

FOOD AT SWELL

 

social

Our clients rave about the food that Haudy and her staff prepare. Read the latest reviews here about what our clients had to say

 

 

LEARN TO WING FOIL / WING SURF

wingsurfing

Wing foiling has gotten very popular, even in the “non” wind season, lots fo clients have signed up for the wingfoiling lessons and have easily managed to get up and riding after their 8 hour lesson course. The coming 5 months in windy season should be a great time to learn this new and exciting sport of wing foiling.

Want to go for big jumps? Learn to kite surf

We hope to see you soon in the action sport capital of the Caribbean.

Jeroen & Clare and the rest of the team at Swell

 

Share on Facebook

SURF & YOGA HOLIDAYS IN THE CARIBEAN

surf & yoga holiday

SURF & YOGA IN PARADISE

surfing yoga retreat

SURF & YOGA: WHY IT’S SUCH A PERFECT MATCH!

As surfers we have long been big fans of Yoga, it’s the perfect supplement to a healthy lifestyle and ensures you can stay fit and flexible to continue your surfing as you get older. Below

SURF & YOGA HOLIDAYS

Are you craving an escape from the hustle and bustle of daily life? Do you dream of basking in the warm sun, riding the waves, and finding inner peace? If so, a surf and yoga holiday might be just what you need. And there’s no better place to experience this perfect blend of adventure and relaxation than with Swell Surf Camp. In this article, we’ll explore the compelling reasons why you should embark on a surf and yoga holiday with Swell Surf Camp for an unforgettable experience of a lifetime.
surfing yoga retreat

HARMONIZING THE ELEMENTS: SURFING AND YOGA

Surfing and yoga, though seemingly different activities, share a beautiful harmony. Surfing allows you to connect with the powerful ocean, riding waves that bring a sense of exhilaration and freedom. On the other hand, yoga allows you to connect with your inner self, promoting physical, mental, and spiritual well-being. The combination of these two practices creates a unique and transformative experience.

Swell Surf Camp has mastered the art of blending these two disciplines seamlessly. Imagine starting your day with a sunrise yoga session, where you’ll stretch and strengthen your body, preparing it for the exciting adventures that lie ahead. Afterward, you’ll hit the waves with expert instructors who will guide you through the surfing journey, helping you catch that perfect wave and feel the thrill of gliding on water. This balanced approach ensures you leave the camp feeling recharged, physically invigorated, and mentally centered.\
surfing yoga retreat

EXPERT GUIDANCE AND COACHING

Whether you’re a complete beginner or an experienced surfer or yogi, Swell Surf Camp caters to all skill levels. The camp’s team of professional instructors is not only highly experienced in their respective fields but also passionate about sharing their knowledge with others. Their expertise will guide you to progress in both surfing and yoga, regardless of your starting point.

If you’re new to surfing, the instructors will provide you with a solid foundation, teaching you essential techniques, safety measures, and wave dynamics. For seasoned surfers, they’ll help you fine-tune your skills and even introduce you to advanced maneuvers. Similarly, the yoga instructors will lead you through various styles of yoga, catering to different preferences and abilities, ensuring that you benefit from the practice, both physically and mentally.
surfing lessons

THE HEALING POWER OF NATURE

One of the most remarkable aspects of a surf and yoga holiday with Swell Surf Camp is the stunning natural locations of their camps. Swell Surf Camp has thoughtfully selected pristine beaches and scenic spots that harmonize with the environment, allowing you to immerse yourself in nature’s beauty.

Picture yourself practicing yoga on the soft sand as the sun rises over the horizon, filling the sky with breathtaking colors. The soothing sound of waves crashing nearby and the gentle breeze brushing against your skin create an environment that fosters relaxation and self-reflection. The natural surroundings act as a catalyst for personal growth and healing, making your holiday truly transformative.

paradise

EMBRACING THE SURFING LIFESTYLE

Surfing is not just a sport; it’s a way of life. Swell Surf Camp embraces the surfing lifestyle, fostering a sense of community, camaraderie, and respect for the ocean. As you spend time with fellow surf enthusiasts, you’ll find yourself connecting with like-minded individuals from all over the world.

Whether you’re sharing stories around a beach bonfire or cheering each other on as you ride the waves, you’ll forge bonds that can last a lifetime. This sense of belonging and the shared passion for surfing and yoga create a positive and supportive atmosphere throughout the camp.

UNPLUGGING AND RECONNECTING

In our increasingly digital world, it’s essential to take time for ourselves and unplug from screens and constant distractions. A surf and yoga holiday with Swell Surf Camp provides the perfect opportunity to disconnect from the virtual world and reconnect with yourself and the present moment.

During your time at Swell Surf Camp, you’ll have the chance to slow down, savoring each moment without the pressure of deadlines and obligations. You’ll be encouraged to be fully present, embracing the simple joys of life: the sound of waves, the taste of fresh meals, and the joy of genuine human connections. Yes we have internet at Swell, but we encourage everyone to minimise the “online life” and instead enjoy social meals with new friends.
social

A UNIQUE SURF & YOGA EXPERIENCE

Swell Surf Camp understands that each individual is unique, with different preferences and needs. That’s why our surf and yoga holiday packages are customizable to you.

If you have dietary preferences or restrictions, our culinary team will prepare delicious meals that cater to your needs.

**Conclusion**

A surf and yoga holiday with Swell Surf Camp offers a unique opportunity to harmonize the elements of adventure and serenity. Through expert guidance, a vibrant community, and a focus on personalization, We try to create an unforgettable experience tailored to your needs. Embrace the surf & yoga lifestyle, unplug from the digital world, and embark on a journey of self-discovery and growth. Book your surf and yoga holiday with Swell Surf Camp today and change your lifestyle.

ACCOMMODATION: STAY IN COMFORT AND STYLE

At Swell we have been providing active surf and kitesurfing holidays in the Caribbean since 2009, in 2021 we added learn to wingfoil packages to our services.

social

Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

 

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding!

Share on Facebook

CARRIBEAN WINGFOIL PARADISE

CABARETE A WINGFOILING PARADISE

surfing green waves

Cabarete: A Windsport Paradise

Located on the north coast of the Dominican Republic, Cabarete has earned a well-deserved reputation as a windsport paradise. This small town, once a quiet fishing village, has transformed into a mecca for windsurfing, kitesurfing, and other exhilarating watersports. From its perfect weather conditions to its stunning natural beauty and vibrant beach culture, Cabarete offers an irresistible combination of factors that make it a haven for windsport enthusiasts from around the world.

CABARETE WINGFOILING PARADISE PLAYGROUND

YouTube video

HISTORY OF CABARETE AS A WIND TOWN

The first ones to discover the appeal of Cabarete as a wind town were the windsurfers in the early 80’s. They enjoyed an empty Cabarete bay with white sandy beaches a large open bay for slalom windsurfing and the waves on the reef for wave windsurfing. It was windsurfers that put Cabarete on the map. In the early 2000, with the rise of kitesurfing become the new rage in watersports that cabarete got a new influx of watersport lovers. The steady side onshore wind of 15 to 25 knots (ideal range) appealed to kite surfers of all levels. Today Cabarete is still widely regarded as one of the best places in the world for kitesurfing. 20 years later, Cabarete is once again in the spotlight for being one of the best wingfoiling / Wingsurfing destinations in the world. Wide open spaces, flat water, gentle rolling deep water swell and waves create the ultimate playground for beginners and experts wingfoilers.

One of the primary reasons Cabarete is considered a windsport paradise is its exceptional wind conditions. Situated between the Atlantic Ocean and the Cordillera Septentrional mountain range, the town benefits from the constant trade winds that blow consistently throughout the year. The easterly trade winds, known as the Alisios, provide a steady and reliable breeze, creating ideal conditions for windsurfing and kitesurfing. These consistent winds, typically ranging from 15 to 30 knots, allow riders of all levels to enjoy their favorite sports without interruptions or frustration. Whether you are a seasoned pro or a beginner looking to learn, Cabarete’s winds will not disappoint.

WIND CONDITIONS IN CABARETE, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

Trade Winds: Cabarete experiences the influence of the easterly trade winds, known as the Alisios. These trade winds blow consistently from the east and are responsible for the reliable wind conditions in the area. The prevailing wind direction ensures that riders can enjoy their sports with a steady and predictable breeze.

Wind Speed / wind strength : The wind speeds in Cabarete are generally suitable for windsports. The average wind speed ranges from 15 to 30 knots, providing enough power for riders to harness and enjoy their chosen activities. These wind speeds are suitable for riders of all levels, from beginners to professionals.

YouTube video

Wind Consistency: One of the key advantages of Cabarete is the consistency of its wind conditions. Throughout the year, the town experiences a high percentage of windy days, ensuring that windsport enthusiasts have ample opportunities to get out on the water. This consistency allows for regular practice, skill development, and a reliable wind-dependent lifestyle.

Seasonal Variation: While Cabarete enjoys consistent winds year-round, there are some seasonal variations in wind patterns. The summer months (June to August) tend to have stronger winds, making it an excellent time for advanced riders seeking more challenging conditions. The winter months (December to February) offer slightly milder winds, which are more suitable for beginners and freestyle enthusiasts.

Overall, Cabarete’s wind statistics demonstrate why it is considered a windsport paradise. The consistent trade winds, favorable wind speeds, and wide wind window make it an ideal destination for windsurfing, kitesurfing, and other related activities. Whether you are a seasoned professional or a beginner looking to learn, Cabarete’s wind conditions offer an exhilarating and unforgettable experience.

OTHER SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES

Cabarete boasts a diverse range of water conditions, further enhancing its appeal as a windsport paradise. The town is blessed with a unique geography that offers something for everyone. The expansive beach, stretching for several kilometers, provides ample space for kiteboarders and windsurfers to glide across the water, showcasing their skills and tricks. Additionally, the Atlantic Ocean’s waves, combined with the reef breaks and offshore swells, create excellent opportunities for wave riding. Cabarete Bay, protected by a natural coral reef, offers calmer waters, making it an ideal spot for beginners and freestyle enthusiasts. This variety of conditions ensures that windsport enthusiasts can always find their preferred style of riding, making Cabarete an inclusive and versatile destination.
Watersport adrenaline away from the ocean? That’s possible too. Go on a Canyoning trip to the 27 waterfalls, 30 minutes out of Cabarete. You’ll be swimming through turquoise canyons and jumping of waterfalls

Beyond its exceptional wind and water conditions, Cabarete’s natural beauty is awe-inspiring. The town is blessed with stunning beaches, crystal-clear turquoise waters, and breathtaking sunsets. The golden sand and warm, inviting waters provide the perfect backdrop for windsport activities. As riders harness the power of the wind and glide across the water, they are treated to panoramic views of the Caribbean Sea and the picturesque coastline. The combination of the natural beauty and the thrill of windsports creates an unforgettable experience that keeps visitors coming back for more.

LEARN TO WINGSURF IN CABARETE

At Swell we have been offering wing foiling lessons to our clients since 2021 and have already had 100’s of clients into Wingfoiling enthusiasts. Wingfoiling is easy and quick to learn and when you are in the hands of a good instructor it is also a safe sport to learn. Many of our clients keep coming back to cabarete for more wingfoiling, since they find it hard to find a wingfoil destination anywhere in the world as good as our home town of Cabarete.

LEARN TO WINGFOIL

Cabarete’s vibrant beach culture is another factor that sets it apart as a windsport paradise. The town has a laid-back and welcoming atmosphere that embraces the windsport community. Along Cabarete Beach, there is a lively strip of beach bars, restaurants, and shops catering to the needs of windsport enthusiasts. The area buzzes with energy and excitement, with riders sharing their experiences, discussing gear, and celebrating their passion for the sport. The local community, including both residents and expatriates, is known for its warm hospitality and genuine love for windsports. This sense of community creates a supportive and inspiring environment that fosters growth and camaraderie among riders.

Furthermore, Cabarete is renowned for hosting world-class windsport events, attracting top athletes from around the globe. The town has been the venue for numerous prestigious competitions, including the Cabarete Kiteboarding World Cup and the Master of the Ocean contest, which combines kitesurfing, windsurfing, surfing, and stand-up paddleboarding. These events showcase the town’s commitment to windsports and bring together the best talent in the industry. For spectators, it is an opportunity to witness thrilling displays of skill and athleticism, further cementing Cabarete’s status as a windsport paradise.

CABARETE A WINDFOILING PARADISE

YouTube video

WHY YOU WILL LOVE A WINGFOILING HOLIDAY TO CABARETE

  • Steady tradewinds
  • Warm water
  • Warm air
  • Friendly Caribbean vibes
  • Easy to get to
  • Budget friendly
  • Good for all levels
  • Variety of other sports
  • Stunning scenery

 

ABOUT SWELL

At Swell we have been providing active surf and kitesurfing holidays in the Caribbean since 2009, in 2021 we added learn to wingfoil packages to our services.

BOUTIQUE SURF HOLIDAYS IN THE CARIBBEAN

Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

 

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding!

Share on Facebook

LEARN TO SURF AT 50

learning to surf at an older age

 LEARN TO SURF AT THE AGE OF 50?

If you are over 50 and considering learning to surf, you might be concerned that you’re too late to the game.

The fact that you will struggle to master the necessary skills, that you will appear foolish, and that all of the other younger, fitter surfers would laugh at your inexperience and slowness and ignore you, are all reasonable concerns.

This, however, is not the case.

surfing green waves

LEARNING TO SURF AT AN ‘OLDER’ AGE

Is it possible to learn to surf at the age of 50? Or Older?
Yes, as long as you have a reasonable level of physical fitness and flexibility. Learning to surf is primarily a matter of persistence, so if you’re ready to keep trying, you can learn to surf at that age.

Consider signing up for a beginner’s surf lesson, getting in shape, improving your swimming skills, selecting the perfect surfboard, and avoiding comparing yourself to others if you’re over 50 and want to learn to surf. You’ll be out there enjoying those waves before you know it!

Surfing has no age restrictions, and it’s never too late to start (even if you’re past 50!)

SURFING IS  A GREAT WAY TO:

  • Keep in shape,
  • Improve your mood,
  • Push yourself,
  • Feel younger for longer.
  • Meet new people

This comprehensive guide will help you learn to surf at 50. It has been compiled to answer your questions and provide support along the process. I’ll go over some of the advantages of this enjoyable outdoor activity and provide a step-by-step tutorial to get you started.

Tips on how to learn to surf aged  50 years or older.

learn to surf at 50

1. WORK ON YOUR FITNESS

Surfing is physically hard at any age, but especially so as you become older.

You’ll need to use your entire body to manage your weight as you paddle out, pop up on your board, and ride those waves. You’ll also be out for extended periods, so you’ll need plenty of stamina to be safe.

As a result, you should begin by increasing your physical activity and improving your fitness. The more physically fit you are, the easier it will be to learn to surf.

To be clear, you don’t need to be in marathon shape when you’re initially learning, but every little bit helps. Here are some suggestions:

Improve your cardiovascular fitness. Take long walks, begin running, ride your bike, or even run around with your children.

Put a premium on functional strength. If you want to keep control, you’ll need good core strength and good arm power for paddling.

Keep in mind to stretch. Stretching, flexibility, and balance should be part of your daily routine to avoid injury and improve your surfing skills.

Most of these surfing workouts may be done from the convenience of your own home. Simply go to YouTube, and you’ll find a plethora of online workouts that will help you get in shape quickly.
Read this article on surf fitness to get started.

2. TAKE SURF LESSON

While you can certainly teach yourself to surf, it’s so much easier and progress a lot quicker when you use the help of a local surf school or surf camp.

For beginners aged 50 and up, these can be invaluable because they give you confidence in your developing talents while also assisting you in improving your technique. You’ll also learn the proper surf ethics and gain a deeper understanding of the water.

SURFING AT AN OLDER AGE

3. IMPROVE YOUR SWIMMING ABILITIES.

If you don’t know how to swim, turn off your computer right now and enrol in some swimming classes. Seriously! If you’re not a great swimmer, there’s no way you’ll be able to stay safe in the ocean.

It is essential to keep in mind that the water is a massive force.

Because waves and currents can be powerful, and sea conditions can change in the blink of an eye, putting you in danger, knowing how to swim is essential. You must be capable enough to look after yourself and get to safety.

Because you’ll be starting in relatively shallow water, you don’t need to be a particularly great swimmer to begin. It is, nevertheless, necessary if you wish to proceed beyond the beginning stage.

Swimming in the ocean as much as possible will help you become a better swimmer. This will provide more authentic conditions than simply going to your local pool, and it will give you more confidence in ‘wild swimming.’

learn to surf at an older age

4. SELECT THE APPROPRIATE BOARD FOR LEARNING TO SURF

When you first begin, make sure you select the appropriate surfboard for a beginner like yourself.

Look for longer, thicker, and wider boards because they provide the most stability and make learning easier. Surfing beyond 40 or 50 is best learned on larger boards like 9 feet + beginner soft top surfboards. More info on beginner surfboards is detailed in this article. 

Avoid smaller boards as much as possible; they are more difficult to manage and can lower your confidence when you first begin. Your local surf shop can assist you in determining the suitable size and shape of a surfboard for your needs and abilities.

5. DON’T MAKE COMPARISONS TO OTHER PEOPLE

I know it is easy to say so rather than act, but you must avoid comparing your surfing abilities to others.

So, what if you’re in a group surf session and someone in your class can show there in 5 minutes, but you’re still having trouble an hour later? Maybe he or she has already learned to surf and is just brushing up on their skills. Perhaps they’re naturally sporty, whereas you’ve spent the last few years lazing on the couch.

Everyone is on their own individual path.

If you want to feel proud of yourself instead of comparing yourself to others, remember that you came up and took the risk of learning to surf at a time when many others would not.

Concentrate on your own game, be proud of your drive and dedication, and work hard to reap the rewards.

If you haven’t already, take benefit of the opportunity to learn to surf. You’ll notice a variety of mental and physical health benefits as soon as you begin.

What are the advantages of learning to surf at the age of 50+?

Learning to surf will change your life for the better, especially if you are over 50 years old. Check out below a few of the reasons behind this:

1. Surfing is a terrific way to stay in shape while having a good time and no more sweating it out for hours on machines in a dark, dingy gym! You’ll be outside, feeling the rush, inhaling in the fresh air while also getting in shape. Awesome.

2. Surfing is a fantastic cardio workout. All of that paddling, popping up, and riding will get your blood pumping, your heart pumping, and your body in terrific form.

surfing holiday

3. Surfing is a fantastic chance to meet new people. When you’re over 50, it’s more difficult to expand your social group. On the other hand, Surfing makes you part of a close-knit group that will keep an eye on you and is there for you when you need it.

4. Surfing aids in the prevention of aches and pains. You will become stronger overall, your joints will become less achy, and you will become more flexible if you engage in regular exercise such as surfing. If you have to sit at your desk all day or have been groaning as you stand up recently, this is the perfect remedy!

5. Surfing is excellent for improving your coordination. When you learn to surf, you’ll notice a significant improvement in your motor skills. If you participate in other sports, this will pay off handsomely and help you age more gracefully.

6. Surfing is a fantastic way to improve your mood. All of that natural daylight exposure, fresh air, exercise, and community spirit will get your endorphins flowing, raise your mood, and, according to some studies, may even help to alleviate your depression and stress.

Don’t let your age stop you from learning to surf. The average age of clients at Swell on a learn to surf holiday is 38. This means we get plenty of people in their 50’s and 60’s that join us.

Want an example:

Clare, one of the owners of Swell Surf Camp was never very interested in learning to surf, then at 52 decided it was time to get in the water and learn surfing. Now she goes for a surf with her surf friends whenever she has a chance. This is Clare 3 years after  her first surf sessions, aged 56 (see the smile on her face)

So what are you waiting for? Sign up for surf lessons at your local surf beach, or join us in the warm and mellow waves of the Dominican Republic for a life-changing surf & yoga retreat holiday

ABOUT SWELL

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught 1000’s people the basics of surfing.

BOUTIQUE SURF HOLIDAYS IN THE CARIBEAN

Swell offers full surf packages holidays

Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

 

dr learn to surf holiday

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding!

Share on Facebook

CATCHING UNBROKEN WAVES: POSITIONING IN SURFING

surfing unbroken waves

CATCHING UNBROKEN WAVES:

POSITIONING IN SURFING

Learn how to discover, catch, and stay on unbroken “green” waves by positioning yourself correctly in the line-up.

surfing green waves

CATCH MORE WAVES BY SITTING IN THE RIGHT SPOT!

This article will provide you with a basic understanding of better position yourself to catch green waves. It covers the fundamentals of paddling into an unbroken wave and “sticking” on these “green waves” without nose-diving, passing over the wave, or becoming caught on top of it.

Keep in mind that this is one of the most difficult skills to master as a beginner surfer. Nothing can ever take the place of practice. The longer time you spend in the water and the more waves you attempt to catch, the better.

The theory presented in this article will supplement your practice and, in most cases, will speed up your progress and save you a lot of time and frustration.

CATCHING UNBROKEN WAVES

Positioning & where to sit

How to locate and position yourself to catch a long green wave:
1. Recognize the various stages of a wave

stages of surfing waves

PHASE 1:  SWELL LINES
It is only a bump in the road. At this point, catching this wave is impossible. This lump is merely a forewarning that a wave is on its way.

PHASE 2: UNBROKEN WAVE
This is the place to look for a “green wave.” This waveform is great for paddling because it is unbroken and has the right strength and steepness. You can’t catch at phase 1  because it isn’t steep enough, and phase 3 is too vertical for you to take off. ( better surfers with shortboards can take off here)

PHASE 3: BREAKING WAVE
The peak of the wave has arrived. On the flat water, the lip is already beginning to crash down. The wave is too big and steep to catch at this point, especially for inexperienced surfers.

PHASE 4: WHITE WATER
The wave has broken and has turned into a whitewater wave.

Real-world example of the different phases of waves

where to surf

 

Prepare for a Green Wave by putting yourself in the right place.

Sit around 4 to 5 meters (15 feet) away from the majority of the waves.

Why?

The reason for this is that if you are waiting at a specific location where a large number of waves are breaking, the moment you turn around and paddle for a wave, you will either be catching a white water wave that has already broken, or you will be getting the wave crashing on top of you.

take off surfing

 

 

A good spot to take off, not too mellow / not too steep.

What is the status of the more experienced surfers? They probably know more about where to sit in line than you do.

This does not imply that you should sit next to them and wait for their waves. It’s merely a guide to help you figure out how far out you should paddle.
Where to sit is also variable on a couple of different aspects:

  • The paddle fitness of the surf (how fast can he/she paddle)
  • What kind of board the surfer is riding (longboards can catch ‘flatter’ waves more easily than shortboards.

Beginner surfers are frequently found sitting much further out from the wave than more experienced surfers. This doesn’t make much sense; either the waves aren’t breaking as far out that day, or they aren’t breaking at all.

In other words, if you see waves breaking a long distance away from where the expert surfers are sitting, this indicates that it is an “unusual” and larger set of waves (which you most likely do not want to catch as a beginner surfer!).

Look for lumps on the horizon. A “phase 1” wave that will transition into a “phase  2” wave roughly 3 to 5 meters behind you is what you’re searching for.
Choose a wave, turn around, and paddle for at least 8 hard strokes. You should paddle hard enough to keep up with the wave’s pace as it transitions from “Phase 1” to “phase 2.”

ADDITIONAL TIPS FOR CATCHING MORE WAVES IN SURFING

KEEP LOOKING
When paddling for a wave, look behind your shoulder. Taking a couple of glances behind you is the only way to determine whether you need to paddle more, paddle less, or even stop paddling for a short period, depending on the shape of the wave.

It also prevents you from “dropping in” on individuals (for further information on what this means, see “Surf Ethics”). If you glance behind you, you’ll be able to tell if the wave was too steep (phase 3), too weak (phase 1), or just right (phase 2), and hence why you failed or succeeded in catching an unbroken wave.

Many inexperienced surfers fail to look back at the wave and end up paddling incorrectly. They either get smashed by the wave or catch a white water wave. Without looking back and understanding what happened, you will never be able to learn from your mistakes.

surfing unbroken waves

A BIGGER BOARD MAKES A DIFFERENCE!
It will be easier to catch unbroken waves if you have a larger board.

PADDLE SPEED
Paddling fast enough to match the speed of a wave is the key to catching “green waves.” You will spring up and surf faster if you can “capture the momentum” of the wave. Green waves are easier to catch on big boards than on small boards because they paddle faster.

Because they move around a lot, better surfers catch more waves. If you notice a lump in the horizon, consider whether it is a larger wave that will break further out to sea or a smaller wave that will break closer to shore.

It will get easier to paddle around and position yourself to catch unbroken waves the more experience you gain in reading waves. The more proactive you are, the more likely you will be to catch waves. See “How to Read Waves” for additional information on wave reading.

Catch and “Stick” on a wave that isn’t broken.
White water waves differ from unbroken waves in the following ways:

The force of a whitewater wave pushes you forward. You might catch whitewater waves during your first sessions when you first start surfing. Because the momentum of the broken white water wave drives you forward, white water waves are very easy to catch.

Most whitewater waves may be caught without even paddling.

surfing green waves

Gravity is the force that creates an unbroken “Green” water wave. The first thing you need to know about catching and “sticking” on green waves is that the white water does not “push” you ahead. Gravity is the force that allows you to enter the wave. You must imagine yourself paddling down a moving “slope.”

How to “stick” to the unbroken wave without getting swept away?
Long, forceful, and deep strokes should be used when paddling. This is especially critical when catching waves that aren’t broken.

When paddling, you must give everything you have, especially when you feel your surfboard’s tail rise: this is a crucial moment to “Stick” on it.

The way you stand on your surfboard is crucial. As we saw in the How to Paddle on a surfboard article, excellent paddling technique is achieved through precise paddle strokes and optimal body placement on the surfboard.

When your chest is exactly centred on the width of the surfboard, and you are at the correct height, you are in the correct position on the surfboard. Place your body high enough on the board so that the nose is about 3-6 centimetres (1-2 inches) out of the water while keeping your head up (imagining a soccer ball between your chin and the surfboard).

surfing unbroken waves

Your head and upper shoulders are likely to weigh 45 pounds (20 kilograms) or more! Consider how much of a difference it makes when you drop your head and bring it closer to the surfboard when you’re pulled up on a wave. This allows you to catch, stick, and descend the “slope” that is moving forward.

Many kids become accustomed to being pushed into unbroken waves by their trainers, which is beneficial for practice. When you’re pushed, however, you don’t have to lower your head to put weight on the front of your surfboard. If you’re disappointed because it’s difficult to catch green waves without the help of a surf coach, remember that shifting your weight towards the surfboard is the key to catching unbroken waves on your own.

It would help if you popped up at around 2/3 of the height of the wave. Once you feel your tail lift and you believe you have gained enough speed to continue gliding with the wave, give two final paddle strokes, place your hands on the board beside your pectoral muscles, curve your back, and jump!

VIDEO OF CATCHING UNBROKEN WAVES

YouTube video

ABOUT SWELL

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught 1000’s of people the basics of surfing with our beginner surf camps

BOUTIQUE SURF RETREAT HOLIDAYS

The Caribbean: On the North Coast of the Dominican Republic

surf hotel

Swell offers full surf packages holidays

Are you interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

 

dr learn to surf holiday

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding!

Share on Facebook

GETTING FIT FOR A SURF HOLIDAY

surfing retreat

GETTING FIT FOR A SURF HOLIDAY

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR SURF HOLIDAY

learn surfing older age

SURF FITNESS


Surfing is an incredibly demanding sport for both body and mind. Not only are you pushing yourself physically, but you have to concentrate and focus on reading the ocean at all times to catch the best waves. That’s why being in the know about surf-specific fitness can make all the difference between getting out the back nice and easy, or getting a big set on your head, rag-dolling all the way back to shore. With this surf blog, we hope to give you the tips that bring you that little bit closer to being physically fit to ace your next surf session.

SURF FITNESS GUIDE


This guide is aimed towards beginner surfers, weekend warriors and those whose sessions are few and far between. When learning to surf, the first few times when you come out of the water after a surf, you might not even be able to get your suit off because your arms are jelly from all the paddling. Sheer exhaustion, we’ve all been there!

If you’re planning a surf holiday or surf camp stay this summer, this article gives you the tools to physically prepare for it. We’ll talk about the main muscles used in the different actions and movements of surfing and explain how to train and stretch them for better surfing performance.

Fitness The Basics: Paddle, Pop-Up, Body Position

There are three main stages in the process of catching a wave. First is the paddle, an explosive movement with the arms. Next is the pop-up, using the upper body to lift ourselves enough to bring the legs into our stance position. And finally, once we are on the wave we use our legs, core and upper body to stabilise and create momentum on the wave-face (pumping) and to perform maneuvers.
 
Which Muscles Do We Use When Surfing?

It’s pretty safe to say that you use most of the muscles in your body when you surf, some more than others and some in different ways. The main muscle group we use when paddling is the upper back ones. This provides us with the power needed to accelerate up to a similar speed of the wave itself. It is usually only a few strokes on each arm before popping up. In other words, it is a strength and power move, which we can train to its fullest potential. Our shoulders are also used in the rotary motion of the move but generally only start to burn after a long paddle out, so endurance is the main factor for this set of muscles. The triceps get a good workout with duck diving and with the pop-up, as do the chest muscles. Again, the pop up is an explosive move so we can train our muscles to perform this more effectively. And finally, when we’re up and riding on the wave face, we use the core (in all planes) and legs for stabilisation and movement. 

Training for surf fitness
Training to go on holiday… Really? Every season, we hear a few guests say something like: “I wish I came on this trip in better shape.”

The amount of preparation you want to do is up to you and depends on your current fitness level and your objectives for the surf retreat. We often have guests that really look forward to either progress their technique or surf 3 or 4 hours every day since they don’t have access to quality waves back home. Here are a few tips if you feel your fitness level could limit you on your next trip.

Surfing &/or Swimming
The best way to be physically ready for a surf trip is… to surf! Even though you run, ride a bike, go to the gym weekly, etc. You might not be training your body in the most effective way to prepare for a surf trip. A significant part of surfing is paddling. Even if the waves at home aren’t great, just getting out there for a paddle will train the muscles needed for paddling. Don’t have waves at home? See the paragraph below on swimming.

If you can’t surf at home, the second-best option is to go swimming at your local pool. In the last 4 to 6 weeks before your surf trip, try swimming at least twice per week. Don’t worry about your swimming speed. Try to find your rhythm and do laps for a total of 20 minutes or more if you can (stop between laps when needed). Very important: use the “freestyle” technique (also known as the “front crawl”).

Stretching &/or Yoga
Mobility is essential for surfing, for both performance and to limit the risk of injuries. Stretching poses that focus on your back, shoulders, arms, hamstrings and hips are often the most recommended. Guests over 40 often struggle with their pop-ups if their hips are too tight. Core strength is key for surfing and yoga can be a great way to build it, although it is not always for everyone.

The more you feel that you can move freely, the better. Especially for your hips (for pop-ups) and shoulders (for paddling).

Training & Cardio
Sit-ups, squats, burpees, push-ups… Those are basic exercises that will build core, shoulder, arm and leg strength and endurance. Training these muscles will help you catch more waves and surf for longer sessions. Every guest has their own fitness level and body type. You or a fitness coach that knows you personally will know what exercises you need to focus on most, how many sets, reps and rest suit you, etc. For cardio, you could consider going for a run or a bike ride.

According to the HHS, adults should aim to get 150 minutes to 300 minutes of moderate physical activity or 75 minutes to 150 minutes of vigorous-intensity aerobic physical activity a week. If you do not reach these targets, it would be a good idea to try to start training at least 4 weeks before your trip. The more significant improvement in strength or endurance you are looking for, the more time you will need (sometimes 12 weeks or more are preferable).

More ideas for training on our Magazine:

Nutrition
Eating healthy is obviously important and complementary to exercising if you either want to feel energized, lose fat or build muscle before your trip.

It’s about finding balance…
Surfing is a sport that requires both a good amount of strength and mobility. For example when you paddle hard to catch a wave or when you push up to pop up, you need shoulder and arm strength. You also need fluidity to be able to slide your legs under your chest during pop up, when you twist your body during carves, etc. It’s a good idea to aim for balance. If, for example, you go to the gym often and feel that you are quite strong but not very flexible, focus on mobility exercises. If you think you are already quite flexible, focus on strength conditioning.

ABOUT SWELL


Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught 1000’s of people the basics of surfing.

Age? Well the average age of a Swell client is 39

Swell offer 2 exciting places for learn to surf holidays:

The Caribbean: On the North coast of the Dominican Republic

surf hotel

Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

learn to surf holiday

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding…regardless of your age!

Our luxury surf coaching holidays have taught 1000’s of people the sport of surfing in a safe, fun and quick way.

If you like this article about learning to surf after 40 you might also like the following articles.

Share on Facebook

COMMON MISTAKES SURFERS MAKE

surfboards for beginners

7 Common Mistakes Surfers Make & How to Fix Them

We all know that surfing is difficult. Everything about learning to surf, from paddling out to catching a wave, presents us with new and seemingly insurmountable challenges. But something about the feeling we experience when we caught our first wave profoundly resonated with us. It hooked us and transformed us from seemingly normal people into addicts. Plain and simple. There’s no turning back. No matter how many wipeouts, hold downs, or frustrating experiences we have in the water, we will persist. Thankfully, there are a few steps we can take, as beginner surfers, to remedy some of our downfalls. Dive in and learn the common mistakes surfers make while learning, and the steps you can take to fix them.

Common surf mistakes

 

1. Poor positioning on the board

While paddling for a wave, it’s vital to consider your position on your board. Too far back, and you’ll never catch a wave. Each oncoming roller will simply sweep under you. Too far forward, and you’ll submerge the nose of the board and nosedive in the process. Your paddle position on the board should leave the board completely flat on the water while you paddle. Neither the nose nor the tail should rise from the water as you paddle. Once you find the sweet spot on your board, look for a reference point so that you may remember the position. My go-to is my relative position to the logo on the board.

2. Dropping to a knee during the pop-up

Now that you’re paddling effectively and catching waves, it’s time to worry about your pop-up. Pop-ups are key to securing a clean ride down the line of a wave. If your pop up is too slow, the wave will outrun you. If your pop us is off-balance, you’re sure to fall. One way many beginner surfers cope with the difficulty of the pop-up is to drop to a knee to retain their balance as they get to their feet.

This is incorrect and will lead to the formation of bad habits, which can plague your surfing and halt your progression. If you’re not agile enough to hop into your stance during your pop-up in one swift movement, do not fret. Simply place one foot after the other. As the wave begins to lift you, begin your pop up by arching your back upwards, lifting your torso off the board as you place your hands flat onto the board. Next, place your back foot flat on the board and bring your front foot up between your hands, and stand up into your stance.

3. Grabbing the surfboard rails during the pop-up

Another egregious pop-up error, that is often made by learning surfers, is to grab the rails of the board during the pop-up. Grabbing the rails may seem like a natural thing to do when the force of the wave begins to lift you, but it will undoubtedly cause you to fall. While it may be a hard habit to break, it has a simple fix. Rather than grabbing your rails during the pop-up, place them securely under your chest, flat on the board, and push up into position.

 

4. The “poo stance”

 

The dreaded poo stance is the telltale mark of a kook, and it is something that should be avoided at all cost. In addition to forcing you to out yourself as a true kook, the poop stance will hinder your ability to cleanly ride down the line and retain your balance.

By definition, the poo stance is an exaggerated squat stance where the surfer is bending at the waist, not the knees, while also pushing their backside out. The remedy to the god-forsaken poo stance is to practice the correct stance repeatedly on land before trying it in the water. A correct surf stance will have the surfer’s feet just wider than shoulder-width, the torso turned facing down the line, and the knees slightly bent with the back knee turned slightly inward.

5. Standing too far forward/ back on the board

If you’ve conquered the pop-up, but can’t seem to successfully ride a wave, your positioning on your board may be to blame. If you stand too far to the front of your board, you will sink the nose, which will cause you to wipe out. If you’re too far back, the wave will roll under you and you will not be able to complete the ride. The simple solution is to pop up in the middle of your board, with sufficient weight on your front foot, allowing you to drop into the face of the wave. As you ride down the line, you may need to change your position on the board. Maneuver forward to speed up and ride further down the line, maneuver backward to avoid nose-diving, or to slow down and reenter the pocket of the wave.

 

6. Not facing down the line while riding backside

 

If you’ve mastered the pop-up, paddling, and catching waves on your own, then it is time to work on riding open faced waves. Catching your first wave is a surreal rush that is hard to match but riding your first green wave takes it to a whole new level. Taking off on a perfect peeling wave, carving up and down its open face while outrunning the white water behind you, is akin to what I imagine flying feels like. Many surfers, however, struggle with riding open-faced waves on their backside. The obvious reason for this is that when you are riding backside, you are not facing the wave, and therefore it is harder to surf as effectively.

Fortunately, there is a sure-fire method to help surfers turn and face, and subsequently ride, down the line on their backside. This method is commonly referred to as “Waiter’s Hands.” “Waiter’s Hands” is a position in which a surfer holds both hands directly in front of their torso as if they were carrying a tray of plates.

Holding your hands in this position and turning at the hips to face down the line, will allow you to avoid cutting your ride short and effectively make it down the line.

 

7. Downsizing your board to quickly

 

In surfing, like everything else in life, it’s important to crawl before you walk, walk before you run, and so on. Many surfers feel that once they’re up and riding on a foam board or a longboard that they are ready to hop on a shortboard. In reality, that is rarely the case. If you downsize your board too quickly, you’ll find executing the skills you’ve previously grasped to beß difficult and frustrating. Surfers should spend ample time on a longboard before they consider riding anything else.

Longboards teach surfers the feel of the wave, how to use the wave to generate speed, and help them gain confidence in the water. If, after a few weeks of comfortably and confidently surfing a longboard, you feel it is time to change it up, pick up a fun-size board. Perhaps a 7-footer.

Spend as much time mastering that board, as you did the longboard, and move down from there. Repeat with each size, until you arrive at a high-performance shortboard.
More information on choosing the right beginner surfboard is on this article: best beginner surfboards to buy

We hope you like the article about common surf mistakes and how to fix them

Interested in learning how to surf? Have a look at the surf vacation packages we offer for our guests at Swell Surf camp

MORE SURFBOARD INFO

Different surfboard shapes explained

Questions or comments about this surf technique article? Let us know, send us a message.

 

Share on Facebook

10 REASONS TO VISIT CABARETE

visit cabarete dominican republic

10 Reasons to Visit Cabarete

Once a minute fishing village on the Dominican Republic’s northern shores, Cabarete now stands as the extreme sports capital of the island, if not the whole Caribbean. While Cabarete is home to some of the Dominican’s most pristine beaches, it is much more than just a scenic destination from which to take in coastal views. When most travelers think of the DR, they conjure images of massive all-inclusive resorts that stick out from the coastline like an unwanted growth. Cabarete does not fit this mold.

While Cabarete is not lacking in lodging options, there is wild and untamed land to explore, isolated beaches to stroll, and of course waves to surf. Keep reading to learn 10 reasons why you need to make Cabarete, Dominican Republic your next travel destination.

1. It’s superb for beginner surfers wanting to learn to surf.

Learning to surf is tough, and if you’re not on beginner-friendly waves, it can be near impossible to progress. Fortunately for beginner surfers, Cabarete is full of fun and forgiving waves that will have you up and riding in no time. Playa Encuentro, where our boutique surf resort is located, is home to a variety of surf breaks suitable for all levels. Beginner surfers will find a picturesque beach break with a friendly sand bottom, perfect for learning.

Our surf school spends the majority of their time at Bobos, a perfect learning wave. In addition to surfing in model learning conditions at Playa Encuentro, guests at Swell Surf Camp will have the opportunity to learn from the best surf instructors on the island and participate in surf theory classes.

2. There are serious surf breaks for advanced surfers

In addition to beginner-friendly breaks, Playa Encuentro is home to some serious reef breaks that attract intermediate and advanced surfers from all over the world. Destroyers, a racing, and hollow reef break is ideal for bodyboarders and expert only surfers who are looking for doggy door exit barrels. “The left” is exactly what it sounds like, a solid left-hand reef break that turns on during winter months and provides long, clean rides.

The main peak at Encuentro has a fun left and right-hander for intermediate and advanced surfers. Coco Pipe, right next to Bobos, is a fast-breaking shallow reef break for experts only. There are even a few offshore reefs that can turn on during the right swell. So, regardless of your level of expertise, Playa Encuentro has a surf break for you.

3. You can learn to Kitesurf

While the morning in Playa Encuentro and throughout Cabarete’s coastline is perfect for surfing, the afternoons are idyllic for kiting. Cabarete’s beaches aren’t just some of the best in the country, or the Caribbean, for kiting, they rank among the best in the entire world. Kite surfers travel far and wide to get to the shores of Cabarete and showcase their talents at Kite Beach.

Fortunately for travelers looking to take up a new hobby, Cabarete is also home to some of the best kitesurf instructors in the world. Learning to kite can be dangerous, so it is important to learn from the best. Cabarete boasts a variety of kiting spots that cater to all levels. Advanced kite surfers will find the waves at the outer reefs to be a suitable challenger, while beginners will feel safe and comfortable in the calm waters of Kite Beach and La Boca.

4. It’s close to El Choco National Park

Located less than 15 minutes from the beach and the center of Cabarete, El Choco National Park gives travelers the opportunity for an unparalleled wilderness adventure. With hiking and mountain bike trails, glistening freshwater lagoons, and a labyrinth of caves to explore, El Choco National Park is a paradise for those seeking adventure. The park is home to a diverse array of species, including over 30 species of birds, lizards, and bats. Explore the park solo, or with a bilingual guide.

5. The local nightlife

Cabarete shines just as brightly during the night as its sun-soaked shores do during the day. A plethora of small, beach bars and night clubs line the waterfront and offer cocktails, live music, and all the fun a traveler could ask for. If you’re looking for a high-end night, head to Ocean World Marina to visit the variety of restaurants and entertainment options, including a casino. Start your night off with sunset drinks under the shady, palm tree adjacent bars on Cabarete beach and see where the night takes you.

6. Horseback riding along the beach has never been more fun

In Cabarete, horseback riding on the beach is taken to a whole new level at the pristine Sea Horse Ranch Equestrian Center. Go for trail rides through the jungle, explore the coastline on horseback, or even take lessons. The center offers tours on over 7-miles of trails and beaches. Advanced riders can even take lessons in jumping and other advanced equestrian activities.

7. The DR’s world-class snorkeling & diving

Situated on the northern shores of the Dominican Republic, Cabarete is ideally position for snorkeling and diving expeditions into the enchanting Caribbean Sea. Just a stone’s throw from Cabarete is the town of Sousa, where many dive and snorkeling tours operate. If you’re a first-time diver, fret not, there are plenty of programs that will get you PADI certified in just a few classes. For more advanced divers, or those looking to snorkel, many companies offer full-day or half-day expeditions.

8. It’s within reach of secluded beaches

Playa Caleton, a calm watered, crescent-shaped, secluded beach is the perfect getaway for travelers looking for a little extra relaxation. The isolated shores of Playa Caleton are surrounded by lush vegetation and rocky outcrops, many of which are carved into unique sculptures. Take a dip in the emerald green water or relax on the sandy shores, either way, you’re sure to fall in love with Playa Caleton.

9. Cabarete’s unique local food scene

While Cabarete is small compared to many travel destinations in the Dominican, its food scene is both authentic and diverse making it perfect for food-loving travelers. In Cabarete, travelers will find a diverse food scene with options from all over the world. In the mood for Mexican? Head to Gordito’s Fresh Mex, a local favorite with plans to expand all over the DR. Want something a bit more authentic?

Wilson’s at La Boca is a BBQ beach shack that serves up freshly grilled fish among other favorites. Cabarete Coffee Company serves up breakfast favorites, smoothies, and of course excellent coffee. Cabarete beach is also a hub for fine dining. Enjoy fresh seafood or steaks cooked to perfection at La Casita de Papi’s Seafood.

10. The many adventure opportunities

Cabarete may be the watersport capital of the Caribbean, but there are endless opportunities for adventure inland as well. One of the most popular activities amongst Swell Surf Camp guests—other than surfing— is canyoning through Cabarete’s nearby waterfall system.

This adrenaline-filled adventure will have you jumping off waterfalls, swimming through gorges, and exploring caves. Another popular activity among travelers in Cabarete is ziplining at Laguna Dudu. The zipline at Laguna Dudu is not your average zip line, it sends you soaring above the lagoon from the nearby cliffs before you plunge into the picturesque water.

START SURFING TODAY!

As well as the physical and psychological benefits of surfing and the way it allows for a healthy lifestyle, you can also meet new people and forget about the stresses of life for a couple of hours. To finish our guide, we want to provide a few considerations before booking your first surf lesson!

Your height and weight aren’t important because there are various shapes and sizes of boards.

  • Don’t worry about your fitness levels right now because your stamina will improve over time.
  • Surfboards can even be custom-made, if necessary.
  • You should NEVER feel as though you’re too old to start surfing.

Don’t live life according to other people’s expectations or rules, make your own rules (perhaps not on the road, but you get the idea!). If you feel you’ll enjoy surfing and you like the sound of the many benefits we’ve discussed here today, we have three words for you; GO FOR IT!

ABOUT SWELL

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught 1000’s of people the basics of surfing.

Age? Well the average age of a Swell client is 37, which roughly means for every 20 year old we teach the sport of surfing, we also teach a 54 year old. We have taught people well in their 60’s the sport of surfing

Adult surf camp
Learn to surf in the Caribbean with us

Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

learn to surf holiday

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding…regardless of your age!

 

Share on Facebook

WHY YOU SHOULD BE RIDING A LONGBOARD

10 REASONS WHY YOU SHOULD BE SURFING A LONGBOARD

Whether you’re learning how to surf, or you’ve been doing it all your life, if you are not currently riding a longboard, or you don’t have a longboard in your quiver then you are missing out. Not only is longboarding tool to learn how to surf Longboarding is the original form of surfing, and there is nothing as stylish, graceful, and in tune with a wave as a skilled longboarder. Surfers started to stray from longboarding with the radical advancements in board shaping that occurred during the seventies and eighties. New surfers were no longer interested in surfing a longboard and doing hanging tens or cheater fives, rather than opt for the endless style of longboarding surfers turned to twin fins and eventually thrusters.

Shortboards brought about new, progressive manoeuvres that ultimately advanced surfing to new heights. But there is something to be said about tradition and going back to the roots of surfing. Longboarding has a lot to offer every surfer, not just beginners. If you’re a surfer who has never truly put in the hours on a longboard, then do yourself a favour and truly learn how to longboard. The results will be evident in your surfing, no matter what you have underfoot.

1. LONGBOARDS ARE PERFECT FOR PEOPLE LEARNING TO SURF

Every surfer should start out on a longboard. Learning how to surf can be a frustrating process, and that frustration is only compounded when trying to learn on the wrong board. A longboard provides beginner surfers with ample surface area that will catch waves with ease and feel stable on the takeoff. Surfers who learn on shortboards or try to jump down in board length too quickly will develop bad habits such as popping up with a dropped knee.

Additionally, learning to manoeuvre and generate speed on a longboard increases a surfer’s understanding of wave mechanics. Learning to walk the board allows surfers to explore the waves face and learn which sections contain speed.

2. INCREASE YOUR DAYS IN THE WATER

Longboards are wave catching machines, plain and simple. The surf does not need to be pumping for a surfer of any level to have a good session on a longboard. The harsh reality of surfing is that waves are rarely perfect.

Your local break might be “world-class” with the right swell and wind direction, but how often does that happen? Even if you know how to surf, and you consider yourself an advanced surfer, a longboard will increase your days in the water. It may as well be law that a day surfing small waves on a longboard is better than a day of not surfing at all.

3. IMPROVE YOUR SURFING

To learn to longboard is to learn how to surf. No one starts out on a shortboard, at least they shouldn’t. It is common practice for beginners to start on soft tops or longboards, and gradually reduce the length of their board as they progress. Longboards, however, are not just for beginners. While it is widely believed that longboards are for novice surfers, longboards actually serve as an invaluable progression tool for all levels of surfers.

When you longboard, things slow down, allowing surfers to deeply study the form and shape of the wave. Each longboarding session turns into a lesson in wave mechanics.

4. LEARN TO NOSE RIDE

Surfing a Longboard
Surfing a Longboard

Nose riding was once seen as the pinnacle of progressive surfing. In the 1960s, longboards were the standard surf craft, board shorts featured 3-inch inseams, and nothing was cooler than being able to ride with your toes hanging off the noise of your board.

To be able to hang ten or perform a cheater five, takes skill, balance, and a deep understanding of wave mechanics. I don’t know a single surfer who can noise ride, who doesn’t also rip on a shortboard.

5. IMPROVE YOUR STYLE

Watching a skilled surfer on a longboard is akin to watching ballet. Riding a longboard well is essentially an intricate dance that requires grace, balance, strength, and a great deal of skill. Style and grace may seem to come naturally to some surfers, but in actuality, they are born out of repetition and deep study.

Learning to longboard will inevitably increase a surfer’s skill and style.

6. LONGER RIDES

Along with more days in the water and an increased wave count, surfing a longboard will also provide lengthier rides. The high volume and length that allow longboards to be able to catch more waves than smaller surfboards, will also increase the length of each ride. Longboards have so much volume that they can cruise through the slow sections of a wave that will typically end a short boarders ride. Additionally, longboarders can easily ride through the ankle-high white water after a wave closes out and reach the reform.

Once you learn to longboard, don’t be surprised if many of your rides take you all the way to the beach.

Surfing Longboard
Surfing Longboard

7. YOU’RE NEVER TOO OLD TO SURF A LONGBOARD

The high volume and length of longboards make them incredibly easy to paddle and manoeuvre, therefore longboards are an ideal surf vessel for those of us who are a bit over the hill age-wise. If your shoulders can’t handle the wear and tear of paddling a board that may be shorter than you and sinks halfway into the water with you on it, then it may be time to learn how to longboard. If your hips cannot perform the jerky movements it takes to pump down the line on a shortboard, then it may be time to learn to longboard.

And if you do not have the strength to submerge your board underwater to duck dive, then it may be time to learn how to longboard.

8. NEVER GET SKUNKED ON A SURF TRIP

Longboard surfing

The seventh circle of hell most likely involves a perpetual cycle of booking a surf trip to some far-flung tropical surf paradise, only to arrive to find that there is no trace of a swell. No one likes getting skunked, but if the waves are small wouldn’t you still want the ability to surf? That’s where a trusty longboard comes in handy.

You may not get spit out of stand-up barrels, but at least you can catch a few waves on a trip where things don’t exactly go as planned.

9. CRUISY AND RELAXING RIDES

Whether you’re just learning how to surf or you’ve been at it for twenty years, you’ll love the laid back, cruisy rides that longboards offer. There’s no need to tire yourself out paddling, just a few hard strokes will put you into virtually any catchable wave. There is no need to take off late and drop in on a steep pitching face, longboards will have you into a wave and on your feet early.

And there’s no need to wear yourself out by tirelessly pumping to get down the line, simply cruise and enjoy the ride.

In conclusion, if you know how to surf, great hop on a longboard. If you don’t know how to surf, no problem at all hop on a longboard and learn. If you’re on the world tour or you’re just an average beach bum, hop on a longboard and you’re guaranteed to have a blast in the water.

LONGBOARDING SURF VIDEO


YouTube video

ABOUT SWELL

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught 1000’s of people the basics of surfing.

Age? Well the average age of a Swell client is 37, which roughly means for every 20 year-old we teach the sport of surfing, we also teach a 54-year-old. We have taught people well in their 60’s the sport of surfing

Adult surf camp
Learn to surf in the Caribbean with us

Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf?

learn to surf holiday

Send us a message today and we’ll get you up and riding…regardless of your age!

ABOUT SWELL SURF CAMP

Located on the scenic north coast of the Dominican Republic is our purpose built surf resort

We cater for surfers of all levels, from beginners to expert surfers who are looking for an active surf holiday

Swell offers full surf packages holidays

If you like this article about learning to surf after 40 you might also like the following articles.

Share on Facebook

SURFBOARD DESIGN 101

active learn to surf holiday

SURFBOARD DESIGN 101

Surfboard shaping and design have both changed significantly over the last few decades. Shaping trends are constantly changing. In the seventies, the twin-fin fish began to dominate line ups. Surfers were completely enthralled by the newfound speed and maneuverability of a shorter board. In the eighties, the thruster was designed and changed performance surfing forever. In the nineties and into the new millennium, high-performance boards were long, thin, and completely rockered out for maximum maneuverability. Today, high-performance boards are getting shorter and fatter with an increased focus on the volume under the chest. But what do all these design features really do? How does a board with low entry rocker compare to one with plenty of rocker when you’re actually surfing? What’s the difference in feel between a single fin, a twin fin, a thruster, and a quad? If you’ve ever wanted to know the ins and outs of surfboard design, you are in the right place. From design to function, this article explores all the intricacies of board design surfboard

SURFBOARD LENGTH

Length is a pretty intuitive design feature. The length is the measure of the surfboard from the tip of the nose to the tail. But there is more to length than one might think. Just a few inches taken or added to a board will create a noticeably different ride. The basic school of thought when it comes to length is that the more length a board has, the easier it will be to catch waves. Surfers may ride longboards on small days, or when the surf is maxing out, they may opt for larger step-ups and even big wave guns for help paddling into waves that would be otherwise too large and too fast to catch.

SURFBOARD WIDTH

Width is the measurement of a surfboard across the board at its widest point. Width plays a role in a few different aspects of surfing. The more surface area a board has, the more it will float, the easier it is to paddle, and the easier it is to catch waves. One way shapers achieve this increased surface area without adding length to a board is by increasing width. Small wave grovelers often feature wide tails; this allows surfers to catch more waves. A board with a wide nose might do well in small surf, but it struggles in large surf with steep faces because a narrow nose allows for a steep drop.

TAIL

The tail is the back end of the surfboard. Its shape and thickness directly affect the performance of the board on a wave. The shape of the tail either allows the board to maintain hold on a wave’s face through a turn or release quickly. For example, a rounded tail can hold, but a tail with a wing feature or a swallow tail releases the board from the waves face.

Surfboard Tails

SURFBOARD RAILS

Rails are the edges of the board. Rails affect boards speed, planning ability, and tube riding ability. Thick rails, for example, will plane well and allow for a lot of speed. A hard, low rail has plenty of hold to the waves face, perfect for a good tube riding.

Surfboard Rails

ROCKER

Rocker is a term that refers to the curvature of the board. A dramatic, heavy, or steep rocker will be more curved, while a flat rocker will be less curved. A steep rocker at the nose of the board allows the surfer to take steep drops. Contrastingly, a board that has a steep tail rocker or a steep rocker for the length of the board allows the surfer more manoeuvrability because the board has fewer contact points on a wave and therefore, less drag. High-performance boards often have intricate rockers that allow surfers to perform in steep, dynamic surf. Small wave boards often have flat rockers allowing the board to plane and maintain speed through slow sections of the wave.

Surfboard Design Rocker

BOTTOM CONTOURS

Often overlooked, but crucial factor that plays a significant role in the performance of a surfboard is the bottom contour.

These seemingly minor variations on the underside of the surfboard significantly impact how the board interacts with the water, affecting the ride’s speed, stability, and manoeuvrability.

The concept revolves around hydrodynamics, the branch of physics concerned with the force exerted by or on liquids in motion.

Surfboard Concave

 

SURFBOARD VOLUME

Importance of Correct Surfboard Volume

Selecting the appropriate surfboard volume is essential for maximizing performance and manoeuvrability in the water. The right volume not only improves your surfing experience but also guarantees suitability for various wave conditions, enabling you to handle different types of waves effortlessly.

Moreover, comprehending the significance of the appropriate surfboard volume customized to your weight, experience level, and surf conditions is fundamental for a successful and enjoyable surfing session.

Impact on performance

The size of a surfboard significantly impacts its functionality in water. High-volume boards, excellent for gaining speed and catching waves with ease, often limit swiftness and make sharp turns difficult.

They are suitable for beginners or those surfing smaller, less forceful waves. Conversely, seasoned surfers frequently favour low-volume boards for handling large waves or performing exact manoeuvres.

These boards provide superior control and permit steeper drop-ins but necessitate more expertise to paddle and catch waves.

Concrete data from tracking devices installed in surfboards provide clarity: there is an optimal balance between size and performance adjusted to each surfer’s weight, skill level, and the wave conditions they aim to master.

Insufficient size leads to sinking, making even the starting difficult; excess can leave a surfer grappling with a board that feels cumbersome and hard to control. Whether opting for longboards that effortlessly slide across small swells or shortboards for rapid turns on large wave days, choosing the correct size is crucial for any surfer wishing to optimize their time in the water.

Surfing

Suitability for different wave conditions

Choosing the right surfboard volume greatly depends on the wave conditions you’ll be surfing in. For smaller waves, opt for boards with more litres to increase speed and glide. This bit of extra volume helps maintain momentum when the power from the ocean isn’t as strong.

On large days, however, surfers should switch to boards with less volume. These sleeker designs provide greater manoeuvrability, allowing for sharp turns and snap on powerful waves without losing control.

In extreme conditions like XXL waves, which require both paddle power and stability, selecting a board with a higher volume becomes essential again. Adjusting your board’s volume according to these guidelines can transform your surfing experience.

Adding roughly 3 liters to your board’s volume can make all the difference in small-wave performance by helping catch more waves easier; whereas reducing volume enhances handling in heavy swells.

How to Calculate Your Ideal Surfboard Volume

When determining your ideal surfboard volume, take into account your weight, experience level, and the wave conditions you’ll be surfing in. These elements are essential in finding the appropriate volume that will optimize your performance and enjoyment on the waves. Utilize online volume calculators to gain thorough understanding of the particular needs for various types of surfboards customized to suit you.

Factors like weight, experience level, and surf conditions

Assessing your optimal surfboard volume begins with comprehension of three vital factors: weight, skill level, and the wave conditions you aim to tackle. These components aid in deciding not just about your comfort and steadiness on the water, but also enhance your competence and advancement as a surfer.

  1. Weight: More weighty surfers need surfboards with a greater volume to keep afloat. For instance, novices can start looking for boards where the volume is equal to 100% of their body weight in kilograms. As you advance to an expert rank, this requirement modifies to a board volume that extends from 30-40% of your body weight. Such a calculated activity certifies that the board backs you sufficiently without affecting maneuverability.
  2. Experience Level: Your skills largely impact the volume of surfboard you require. Novices gain from extra volume as it provides increased steadiness and simpler wave catching. Typically, their boards have volumes similar to their complete body weight in liters to simplify paddling into waves and making standing up more achievable. Conversely, adept surfers can manage boards with a lesser volume—around 30-40% of their body weight in liters—permitting for sharper turns and superior control in high-performance surfing situations.
  3. Surf Conditions: The magnitude and force of the waves you aim to tackle are defining factors in selecting the suitable surfboard volume. Boards that are larger with higher volumes are recommended for smaller or weaker waves as they simplify catching such waves earlier. On the other hand, substantial wave conditions suggest a reduction in volume for desirable speed control and manoeuvrability. This adapted strategy lets surfers optimize their experience based on wave conditions, assuring they have the right equipment for both relaxed cruises on small swells and challenging rides on colossal waves.

By meticulously considering these three aspects – weight, skill level, and wave conditions – you prepare yourself for triumph on the water. Whether opting for a funboard for its lenient nature or accepting big wave guns for exciting rides, understanding how each component impacts your surfboard’s performance is vital to your growth as a surfer.

Examples of Volume Calculations

Calculating the ideal volume for your surfboard is crucial for optimal performance in various wave conditions. Consider factors like weight, experience level, and surf conditions when determining the right size for you.

Understanding the volume requirements based on these elements can significantly enhance your surfing experience. Read our comprehensive guide to find out more about calculating your perfect surfboard volume.

Different surfboard types and their typical volume ranges

Understanding the right surfboard volume for your needs is crucial. It changes how you catch waves, your speed, and your ability to perform tricks. Here’s a quick look at various surfboard types and their typical volume ranges. This guide aims to help you make an informed choice.

 

Surfboard Type Volume Range (liters)
Shortboard 22-35
Fish 25-45
Funboard 40-60
Longboard 60-100

 

Shortboards, known for their agility, fall within a 22-35 liters volume range. They’re best for experienced surfers who want sharp turns and control on steep waves. Fish surfboards, offering a bit more volume at 25-45 liters, cater to those looking for a balance between speed and manoeuvrability. Funboards, with their 40-60 liters volume, suit beginners well, offering ease of catching waves and stability. Longboards have the highest volume, ranging from 60-100 liters, ideal for surfers who prioritize wave-catching ability and a smoother ride over sharp manoeuvres.

Each surfboard type caters to different skill levels and wave conditions. Choose wisely to enhance your surfing experience.

Surf Volume Weight Chart

SURFBOARD FINS

Fins propel the board forward, dictate the turning radius, create hold on a waves face, and much more. So obviously, fin set up directly affects the board’s performance and feel. While there are a few novelty few setups that have gone in and out of fashion over the years, such as the bonzer or the asymmetrical setup, there are four standard fin setups: single fin, thruster, twin fin, and quad.

THRUSTER

The thruster (3 fins) is, perhaps, today’s most common fin set-up. When the thruster first appeared on the scene during the 1980s, most surfers were riding twin fins that offered a lot of speed, but not much manoeuvrability. The addition of the back fin provided surfers enough control to be able to turn on a dime. The thruster set-up allows surfers to change direction with ease and carve out massive turns on an open face. This increased manoeuvrability completely changed progressive surfing and brought about the power surfing style that was popularized in the ’90s.

Surfboard Fins

TWIN FIN

The twin fin came into popularity during the 1970s with the rise of “the fish.” These unique shortboards, with two fins placed far apart, allowed surfers to reduce drag and increase speed. Twin fins are ideal, and a blast, in small to medium waves where they provide optimal maneuverability and flow.

 

QUAD

The Quad fin set up (4 fins) leans heavily on the basic science behind the twin fin, a wide space between fins for water to flow equals speed. However, the extra two fins on the quad provide additional hold, which comes in handy in smaller waves.

twin fin surf
Twin Fin

Quads with the trailer fin closer to the rails and further up on the board, perform great on smaller waves, like a twin fin but with a bit more control.

Quads with the trailer fins further back provide extra hold in large hollow barrels, without sacrificing speed.

SINGLE FIN

single fin surfToday, most single-fin surfboards are longboards, but that wasn’t always the case.

Single fins offer surfers long, drawn-out, arching turns. The one large fin offers plenty of hold but does not have the manoeuvrability of a board with three fins, regardless of the board’s length.

 

MORE INFO ABOUT SURFBOARDS, SHAPES AND DESIGNS:

– The Swell article surfboard shapes give you more insight into the different types of shapes. – New to surfing? Read the beginners surfboard guide. – What is needed to get you into this? Read the surf equipment and accessories page. – Don’t want to bring your surfboard to Cabarete? See our list of surfboards for rent in Cabarete

ABOUT SWELL

Teaching people the sport of surfing in a safe, quick and fun way is what we specialise in at Swell Surf Camp. We have taught 1000’s of people the basics of surfing. Adult surf camp Learn to surf in the Caribbean with us Interested in changing your life to see the health benefits of learning to surf at our surf retreat?

Share on Facebook

SURF , WAVE, SWELL AND BREAK TERMINOLOGY

wave guide

SURF, WAVE, SWELL AND BREAK TERMINOLOGY

THE ULTIMATE WAVE GUIDE

Topics covered and explained in the Surf, waves, swell and break terminology:

  • Understanding Swell
    • Ground Swell
    • Wind Swell
  • Understanding Wave Formation
    • Concave Refraction
    • Convex Refraction
  • Understanding Surf Breaks
    • Beach Break
    • Point Break
    • Reef Break
  • Wave anatomy
    • The Peak
    • The Shoulder
    • The Face/ Wall
    • The Lip
    • The Channel
understanding wave forecasts
Different types of waves

To a non-surfer, a wave is just a wave. In actuality, waves are like fingerprints; no two are alike. The same is true for wave setups; no single break is exactly the same as another one anywhere in the world. In order to improve one’s skills, a surfer must have a firm grasp on wave mechanics and an in-depth knowledge of a variety of different types of surf breaks.

WAVE GUIDE

To understand surf breaks and wave mechanics, we must look at how waves are formed by swell and where swell comes from.

UNDERSTANDING SWELL

The sun is the origin of all surf. Solar energy creates wind, and winds blow across vast areas of open ocean to create energy that eventually organizes itself into swell.

When swell travels great distances or combines with other swells, it can increase in size and interval. There are two types of swell that cause surf, groundswell, and wind swell.

GROUND SWELL

ground swell
Ground swell

Groundswell is the type of swell surfers hope and pray for; it often creates large and powerful surf.

Groundswell is created by large storm and weather systems or strong wind blowing over long distances of open ocean. Groundswell can travel for thousands of miles, and the wave energy can reach up to 1,000 feet in depth. Ground swells typically produce long interval swell and large surf once they make landfall.

WIND SWELL

wind swell
Wind swell

Wind swell is created by less powerful, more localized wind systems.

The wave energy from wind swells do not run as deep, and they only travel short distances across open ocean.

The result is usually smaller surf with a shorter interval.

UNDERSTANDING WAVE FORMATION

WAVE REFRACTION
Wave refraction

When swell finally reaches shallow water- whether that be a continental shelf, a reef system, or a sand bar- it is slowed and finally releases its energy in the form of breaking waves.

When swell bends horizontally as it breaks, it is called refraction. Refraction steers swell towards or away from shore. Some coves on the same coast during the same swell can have pumping waves while others are as calm as lakes.

This occurrence is caused by the varying ocean floor contours that cause different types of refraction. There are two types of refraction that can occur, depending on the ocean floor topography, concave refraction, and convex refraction.

CONCAVE REFRACTION

When open ocean swell comes into contact with an abrupt, protruding change in the ocean floor that is surrounded by deeper water- often a reef or sand bar- the swell will bend at its far ends as it turns into a breaking wave.

The center portion of the swell is slowed by the protrusion. The result resembles a bowl shape that travels towards the shore, with the “opening of the bowl” facing the shore.

CONVEX REFRACTION

When open ocean swell collides with a protruding headland, such as a cliff, jetty, or even a pier, the portion of swell confronting the headland slows, while the rest of the line of swell continues forward at pace.

The result closely resembles a “C” shape with the curved side moving towards the shore. This is known as convex refraction, and it nearly mirrors concave refraction in appearance.

UNDERSTANDING SURF BREAKS

Beyond refraction, ocean floor topography plays a role in determining how a wave breaks, not just how it bends. Surf breaks are categorized in three different ways: beach breaks, reef breaks, and point breaks. Understanding the differences between surf breaks is key to not only progressing as a surfer but staying safe in the water.

At Swell Surf Camp, our clients have access to a variety of surf break types that will match their surf skill level. The Dominican Republic is home to a vast system of reef and beach breaks.

BEACH BREAK

Beach break
Beach break

If you’re a first-time surfer, it’s best to find a mellow beach break to learn. Beach breaks are typically the safest types of surf break. Incoming swell breaks over sand bars versus harsh rocks or reef.

The shape and size of the wave are directly influenced by the sand bars that are constantly shifting. Beach breaks typically offer a variety of peaks compared to reef or point breaks that might only have one take off zone.

POINT BREAK

Point Break
Point Break

Point breaks, as the name suggests, are waves that break on a point, a protruding land mass that is perpendicular to the wave’s direction.

This point can be natural or manmade, such as a jetty. The wave at most point breaks is slow forming and offers surfers a long ride with a carve-worthy wall. Point breaks are great for surfers who are looking to progress and learn to carve / turn.

REEF BREAK

Reef break
Reef break

A reef break is created by a wave breaking over a rock or coral formation under water. Reef breaks can either have submerged reef or exposed reef.

A submerged reef is a rock formation that has been covered by sand. Submerged reefs are typically safer to surf over than any other type of reef. The exposed reef is often sharp and dangerous to step on. Additionally, reef systems can have other hazards, like sea urchins.

Reef breaks do, however, offer a consistent peak and wave shape that you would not find at a beach break.

WAVE ANATOMY

In order to successfully catch and ride waves, a surfer must comprehend basic wave anatomy. Where should you take off? What parts of the wave have the most speed? Where is a safe place to wait for incoming surf? All of these questions can be answered by digging a little deeper into the anatomy of a wave.

THE PEAK

One mistake many first-time surfers make is paddling for any incoming wave no matter where they are positioned compared to the peak. The peak of a wave is its highest point and the ideal take-off point for surfers. A wave begins to break at the peak making it the steepest portion of the wave and the easiest place to take off.

THE SHOULDER

The shoulder of a wave is a flatter and more mellow section of the wave that sits down the line from the peak. The shoulder is a great place to sit and watch your friends score waves.

THE FACE/ WALL

The face or wall of a wave is the steep, vertical section of a breaking wave just in front of the “pocket.” Our goal as surfers is to ride on the face of the wave just in, or slightly in front of, the pocket. Once a surfer gets too far down the face of the wave (closer to the shoulder), they cut back so that they can ride in the pocket of the wave. Beginner surfers will find that their rides will be cut short if they ride in front of the face of the wave, rather than on it. The vertical section of the wave has the most power.

THE LIP

The lip of the wave is the cresting portion that comes down as the wave breaks. With offshore wind and a decent sized swell, surfers can pull into barrels behind the lip of the wave.

THE CHANNEL

While the channel is not technically part of the wave, it is vital to a surfer’s ability to paddle out. Paddling out can be difficult, especially in large surf. The channel is where all of the incoming surf flows back into the sea. This is the best place to paddle out, as it is often calmer than other parts of the break.

LEARNING MORE ABOUT WAVES

The most effective way to learn about waves, different surf breaks, and varying surf conditions is to surf as much and as often as possible. At Swell Surf Camp, we not only teach our clients to surf in the warm Caribbean Sea, but we provide the ultimate surf experience through stellar lodging, tasty food, and a welcoming community.

Share on Facebook

UNDERSTANDING SURF FORECASTS

understanding wave forecasts

UNDERSTANDING SURF FORECASTS

Decades have passed since surf travel has required reading nautical charts, packing weather radios, and crossing your fingers that your destination had some trace of swell. Gone are the days of surf exploration, where any hidden stretch of coastline could possess the often sought after—yet rarely found—perfect wave. Today, we open our phones and we are able see what the surfs doing anywhere in the world in a matter of seconds.

Regardless of the local of your session, surf trip or not, getting skunked burns the same. Surf and weather forecasting might be the most advanced it has ever been, but it will do no good if you’re not quite sure how to read a forecast. Can you say without a shred of doubt that you understand the relationship between swell interval and wave size? Do you know what swell directions the best for your local break?

Can you track a swell originating halfway around the world until it makes landfall on your coast? At Swell Surf Camp, we want you to prepared and knowledgeable surfers, whether you’re surfing at our Caribbean surf resort, or at your home break. Keep reading to learn how to read and interpret surf forecasts and you’ll be sure to score on your next trip down the coast or across the world.

WAVE HEIGHT

Wave height, it’s pretty self explanatory . Simply put, it is the height of the wave. Understanding the mix of variables that affect a wave’s height will improve a surfer’s ability to read a forecast, and ultimately lead to catching more waves. First, it is important to know that the forecasted wave height, and the height of a wave’s face are typically different. Waves are measured from the top of the peaking swell, which is not the same thing as the face. So, a 2-foot forecast on an offshore day, with the right ocean floor contour, can produce a 3 to 5-foot face.

The forecast might read 2-3 feet, but the waves face could easily be head high.

wave height surf

SWELL INTERVAL

Failure to comprehend and properly read swell interval can lead to missing a solid surf session. Swell interval is defined as the time that passes between two waves, typically measured in seconds. Swell interval has a direct relationship to wave size in that a long interval will produce larger surf.

The concept is simple. If a wave has a long interval, it has more time to build in size. Thus, along swell interval or period —as it is often called— will create bigger surf than a short interval on with the same size swell. Longer interval swell will also produce more powerfull breaking waves.

SWELL DIRECTION

Swell direction is another term with a self-explanatory title, it is simply the direction of the incoming swell. A swell’s direction is categorized by the direction the swell is traveling from, rather than the direction of that swells trajectory.

A swell traveling from south to north would be labeled as a south swell. How swell direction affects wave quality depends what direction the coast/ break is facing and the wind direction. If a beach is facing southwest and the incoming swell is a northwest swell, the resulting conditions will most likely be choppy.

The most common Swlel direction on the North Coast of the Dominican Republic is North East, but in winter time when stronger storms are off the coats of New Work it will send waves down to the North Coast of the DR in a good North Swell. A typical North Swell in The DR will be 6 foot in height with a 13+ second interval, resulting in waves overhead to double overhead in Cabarete

WIND DIRECTION

Wind direction will always make the difference between average waves and great waves. If the wind is blowing onshore (towards the beach) it will flatten waves and cause chop. If the wind is blowing cross shore, it will create shop and poor wave conditions.

If the wind is blowing offshore, however, it will prop up the face of the wave and create clean surf conditions.

WIND SPEED

Regardless of what direction the wind is blowing, high wind speeds will create more difficult surfing conditions. A gentle wind is an ideal scenario for surfing. If the wind is blowing onshore, but only at a speed of 3 or 4 mph, then the conditions will most likely still be clean.

Even if the wind is directly offshore, high wind speeds will make it difficult to drop into waves.

TIDE

While some breaks work at all tides, not all breaks are created equal. In the same vein, some breaks work well at high tide and others exclusively at low tide. The deciding factor has to do both with swell/ wave size and the ocean floor contour.

For example, certain reef breaks may only be safe to ride at high tide because the reef could be exposed or too shallow at low tide. Similarly, some sand bars may be too deep to effectively cause waves to break during high tide, but they may work well during low tide.

Fortunatly for us, there’s very little tidal change on the beaches of the North Coast, so you can surf in all tides

VIDEO EXPLAINING THE DIFFERENT ELEMENTS

YouTube video

WAVE TYPE

While the wave type of any given break does not fluctuate and is not technically part of your daily surf forecast, it is usually included in a small section to help you better comprehend how the wave breaks on any given day.

There are three main wave types: beach break, reef break, and point break. Each wave type can produce a left, a right, or an “A-frame” depending on the set up of the break.

BEACH BREAK

A beach break is the ideal learning setting for any beginner surfer. Beach breaks have sand floors, meaning that they have surfers who hit the bottom have a low risk of injury. Waves break over sand bars (rather than reefs), which can shift significantly during a day creating several peaks.

Additionally, wave energy pounds into the sand and has nowhere to go but up and out, which creates an arduous paddle out during a large swell.

REEF BREAK

A reef break is any wave that breaks over some type of submerged rock formation. There are a variety of types of reef breaks, some of which are beginner/ intermediate friendly and some of which that are advanced only.

SUBMERGED REEF

A submerged reef break is the only variety that could be considered beginner to intermediate friendly. While every beginner surfer should start out on a beach break, once they have mastered the pop-up and are able to successfully ride down the line at will, riding a submerged reef break is not out of the question.

A submerged reef break is not a live coral reef, the ocean floor is made up of rock that has been covered by sand. While you don’t’ necessarily want to get slammed into a submerged reef, you won’t hurt yourself by walking on it.

CORAL REEF

Coral Reefs are, are full of, living organisms. Coral is sharp, simply stepping on coral can cause injury. Additionally, many coral reefs can be full of sea urchins that’ll ruin any surfer’s day. Coral reefs, regardless of the depth of water at the break, should only be surfed by intermediate to advanced surfers.

ROCK REEF

Similarly, rock reefs can put a serious damper on your day if you come into contact with them during a wipeout. While the rocks may not be sharp (they often are though), they may still be riddled with sea urchins just waiting to impale you. Depending on the depth of water over the reef, rock reefs should only be ridden by intermediate to advanced surfers.

POINT BREAK

Point breaks cater to surf progression. Point breaks are generally slow breaking, mellow rides that often offer up ideal sections for carving and turning. A point break is caused by an obtrusive land or underwater mass—often rock— that runs perpendicular to the wave/shoreline.

The protruding mass will cause the peak of the break to present itself at roughly the same place every single wave, which can crowd the lineup, but offers workable sections for intermediate surfers looking to improve.

Armed with the newfound knowledge of an amateur meteorologist, you are ready to take to the sea, plan your next surf trip to Swell Surf Camp, or drive down to the coast to catch some waves!

WAVE FORECASTS FOR THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

The surf forecasts we use the most in Cabarete are and Windguru (opens new window) which is very reliable for wave and wind forecasts for surfers and kitesurfers.

In need of good waves?

At Swell we provide Learn how to surf holidays for people that have never surfed before as welll as a great social place to stay for advanced and expert surfers looking for a cool, comfortable & social place to stay. We offer full packages which include:

  • Airport transfers
  • Breakfast and 4 dinners
  • Comfortable & stylish accommodation
  • surfboard rentals and surf transport
  • A great social vibe

  We hope to see you in the Dominican republic soon

Share on Facebook

SURF STANCE

surfing stance

SURF STANCE

The technique behind the perfect surf stance

 

Goofy or Regular

Let’s talk about surf stance! The term Goofy foot came into existence after Goofy, a character in Walt Disney movie, surfed by putting his right foot forward, unlike the majority of surfers that put their left foot forward when surfing. This cartoon character was a left-hander and seems to prefer goofy surf stance, so now you understand.

Avoid assuming that being a left-hander automatically makes you a goofy footer or being a right-hander automatically makes you a natural footer. This is a generalization because there is no absolute rule about it.

Are you a goofy or natural footer?

In case you are enthusiastic about skateboarding or snowboarding, the same thing is applicable to surfing. If you have no experience with skateboarding or snowboarding then assume that you are moving swiftly on the ice and about to slide, which of your feet would be put forward as you slide?

surf stance

When sliding,  you will experience a certain comfort zone in a particular position over another. In one position, you will experience stability and strength while you will feel awkward and uncertain in the other.

For better utilization of your water time, understand your stance in advance. There is no need for you to waste good waves on understanding something you are capable of learning from the comfort of your home.

However, the position of your front foot and back foot on the surfboard is not the only thing to know about surfing stance.

Your turns, acceleration, balance as well as general maneuvering display when you are on the wave will be greatly improved if you can adopt an optimum stance while you are on the surfboard.

A low surf stance will assist you in maintaining your balance if you are new to surfing.

However, you should avoid going too low.
As they are catching their first waves, inexperienced surfers are advised to ensure that their feet are kept shoulder-width apart. Simultaneously, they should bend their knees for impact absorption and keep their hands close to the rails of the boards or, at the minimum, at the waist level.
It is essential for people that are new to surfing to understand the appropriate surfing stance before getting into the waves.

Through optimization of weight distribution and adjustment of the body to the regular morph of the wave, new territories in wave riding will be seamlessly unlocked by an appropriate surf stance.

The right placement of your feet on the surfboard is the first step to a good body position.
In case your position is too distanced on the tail, you will end up miring the surfboard, slacking off and ultimately blotting out.
As a basic guideline, the surfer should place his feet over the stringer and focus on the board’s width.

Steer Clear of the Poo Stance
poo surf stanceOne of the majorities of mistakes that beginners, intermediate and even some experienced surfers make is the poo stance.
Just as the name indicates, when riders use the poo stance, their posture looks like that of someone sitting on the toilet seat with the knees facing different positions.
What you are doing is surfing, not using the toilet seat. Steer clear of this by any means necessary. Not only does this stance look bad, but it will also prevent the movement of your hips as you try to limit your movement on the face of the wave.

The Open Surf Stance
During the process of surfing, it is important for you to be able to handle the movement of the surfboard forward, backward, above the heels and above the toes.
Nevertheless, rather than pointing their foot sideways, lots of first-timers position their front foot to look forward. This position is known as the open stance.
An open stance allows you move forward and backward; however, it makes it impossible for you to control your movement from side to side because your front foot is looking in the direction of the nose of the surfboard.

Taking Off
For any surfer, the specific wave that he wants to ride should be used for determining his stance.
When paddling into a wave that is small, slow and mushy, the feet of the surfer may be moved forward in the direction of the nose of the board and maintained in a comparatively low stance to ensure that surfing continues.

However, in case you are riding on a medium-sized wave that is fast and hollow, you are compelled to move your feet back closer to the tail as you are taking off to ensure that obliteration is prevented.
In case you are surfing in a surf break that is affected by the wind, it may be important for you to reduce the center of gravity to take in the impacts that the rough waves produced.

Big wave surfing also requires the same rule. To maintain balance, reduce the risk of blotting out, and take in unforeseen bumps, extreme surfers have the tendency to crouch.

Low Surf Stance: an exceptional method to maintain balance.

Riding Down the Line
As soon as you start surfing, the trick lies in your ability to transfer your weight from the tail until it reaches the center. The aim is to optimize the time you spend surfing and ultimately maneuver as much as possible.

However, the surfing stance is similarly, and at the same time, an important gas pedal and brake.
Whenever there is a need for you to speed down the line to beat a crumbling section, you should ensure that your weight is shifted backward.

That is, make sure your back knee is bent.

The Essence of the Arms and Hands
When it comes to maintaining the balance as well as using the ideal surfing stance, your arms are very essential.
After you have turned up and started riding on a wave, focus on your destination and free your arms.
It will be noted that your front arm will be near the left rail of the surfboard while your right arm will be kept far back, above the right tail and near the tail of the board.

How to position feet for your turns
Unless there is pressure from the back foot heel and toe, the board will never make the right turn. Your back foot acts as the accelerator pedal. Although your front foot has no effect on the turning process, it offers you balance.

For you to make a proper turn, place your back foot above the top of the front fins or negligibly at the back (based on the length and type of surfboard). When a bottom turn is performed, you apply pressure to the back foot, with the main focus on the toe pressure; as a result, the rail in the tail is sunk, the fins are utilized, and the board is allowed to get to the rail and speed during the turn.

Foot placement in surfing

feet placement surf stanceEven after application of back foot pressure, a few individuals still have difficulties with making a turn due to the fact that their foot has moved too forward. A back foot traction pad is excellent equipment because it allows you to know the specific position of your foot.

When using only wax, it will be difficult to tell where your foot is. With the aid of the traction pad, the tail of the surfboard is protected and the issues of denting from back foot pressure are relieved.

During the shift from a bottom turn to a cut-back, the back foot is pressurized once more, focusing on heel pressure, so that the rail is sunk, the fins are utilized and the board is allowed to bend during the turn.

If excess pressure is applied to the front foot during a cut-back or bottom turn, the center portion of the rail, simply forward of the front foot part, will slash into the water, ensuring that the rail is dug in and the board is slowed down. This is generally known as a rail catch.

A false impression is that a rail that is softer and rounder will not catch but an edge that is harder will catch. Without a doubt, this is a fallacy. It is only when the front foot is pressurized excessively during a turn that a rail will catch and bog.
Evidently, the turning process is largely dependent on flexibility and your body mechanics….however, to perform an excellent turn, the primary rule is back foot heel or fron foot toe pressure.

WANT TO LEARN TO SURF? OR IMPROVE YOUR SURFING

Interested in taking your surfing to the next level? Or if you have never surfed before, why not learn to surf in the warm Caribbean water on the North Coast of the Dominican Republic with Swell.

We offer stylish & comfortable surf accommodation in the cool surf town of Cabarete. Full packages with airport transfers, surf board rental pool, lessons ( or surf coaching if you already know the basics of surfing), Breakfast and 4 dinners.

Have a look at the packages we offer at Swell; the #1 Surf Resort in the Caribbean.

SEE WHAT SWELL IS ALL ABOUT

 

 

Questions or comments about this surf technique article? Let us know, send us a message.

 

Share on Facebook

SURF FITNESS: BEST STRENGTH EXERCISES

surf fitness exercises

The Best Strength Exercises to Improve Your Surfing

Last week we focussed on cross training exercises to get your surf fitness up. Today we focus on the best strength exercises for surf fitness

Surfing is not like most sports: there’s no running clock, there’s no designated playing area, and there is certainly no prescribed training regime that works for all athletes. Many would argue that surfing is not a sport, but rather a lifestyle.

Hanging out at the beach  and catching waves certainly doesn’t feel like a sport. Regardless of one’s views on where surfing fits into the sporting world, no one can deny that surfing is physically demanding. Simply paddling out on a decent-sized day requires a well-tested cardiovascular engine and a fit upper body. Catching a wave and popping up entails heightened agility and ample flexibility.

While the act of actually riding a wave and carving demands intense core strength and sturdy legs. Not all surfers are the type to hit the gym and pump serious iron, and that’s ok. Bulky muscle is not conducive to paddling, anyways. To achieve an optimal level of surf fitness, one needs the perfect blend of strength and muscle endurance. Dive in below, to check out Swell’s:

BEST SURF FITNESS EXERCISES

1. Pushups

surf-fitness-exercisesThis may seem obvious, but the simple push-up is a highly effective, yet often overlooked, tool for building upper body strength and endurance. The good thing about the push-up, as with any bodyweight exercise, you won’t build bulky, excess mass.

Instead, you will build functional upper body strength that is proportionate to your body weight. Work to perform a high number of reps at a high intensity. Set a lofty goal, like 100, 200, or 300 push-ups, and see how long it takes you to get there. Like paddling, the pushup, or press up as it is often referred to across the pond, requires a blend of strength and muscle endurance.

2. Pull-ups

Surf strenghtLike the pushup, the pull-up is another phenomenal bodyweight exercise that will build functional strength relative to one’s body weight, not bulky, unnecessary mass, so an ideal surf fitness exercise. Similarly to how we described the pushup, with the pullup we want to build our rep capacity.

Start with a reasonable number like 10, 20, 30, 40, or 50 and attempt to execute that many reps in as few sets as possible. As you get stronger, set your rep goals higher. Unlike the pushup, the pull-up does, somewhat, mimic paddle movement and work the large muscles in the back (the lats) that are activated during paddling.

3. Inverted Rows

surf strenght exercisesOften used as a scaled-down pull-up substitute, inverted rows are a great way to strengthen your lats, the small muscles in your upper back, and your rear deltoids (all paddle muscles). As stated previously, if you cannot do a pull-up, inverted rows are a great place to start. To perform lay horizontally below a suspension trainer or secured barbell. The higher off the ground the suspension trainer/barbell, the easier the exercise will be.

With your heels planted on the ground, grip the bar slightly wider than shoulder-width apart, or hold your suspension trainer in a neutral position slightly wider than shoulder width. Pull your chest towards the bar/ suspension trainer. As you pull, keep your core tight and hips up, in line with the rest of your body. As your chest moves higher, pinch your shoulder blades together to activate the smaller muscles in your back. Perform three sets of ten.

4. Handstand Push Up

hand stand exerciseHandstand push-ups might sound intimidating, but they are not as difficult as they may look and they have a myriad of benefits that will directly improve your surfing. Handstand pushups target your deltoids, which are used heavily when we paddle. What makes Handstand pushups superior to any old overhead press, for surf training specifically, is that like the aforementioned push-up and pull up, handstand pushups build lean muscle and functional strength relative to one’s body weight.

To perform, place a pad about 12 inches from the wall.
Place your hands slightly wider than shoulder width on the sides of the pad and kick your feet up so that you are in a full handstand position with your heels supported by the wall. Lower your head slowly down until it is resting on the pad and then push up to the starting position. Perform 3 sets of 5-10 reps.
Here is a good article on how to get started with handstand push ups (opens a new window)

5. Pike Push Up

For those not quite ready to kick up onto a wall and crank out handstand pushups, the pike push-up is the ideal substitute.

Like the handstand push-up, the pike push-up targets our shoulder muscles (deltoids), which are crucial in paddling. To perform a pike push-up, place your feet on a bench or box, with your hands on the ground, wider than shoulder width, shape your body like an inverted L. With your torso vertical, and your legs horizontal, lower your head down to the floor between your hands, and press back up.

6. Suspension Trainer Rear Delt Fly

The small muscles in our back our crucial for paddle endurance, but they are often overlooked in training. Fortunately, it doesn’t take much to keep your rhomboids and surrounding muscles fit. You don’t need to use a lot of weight, in fact, you only need to use a fraction of your body weight. Suspension trainer rear delt flies are a great way to train these muscles and you can do it virtually anywhere.

To perform, grab the suspension trainer handles and hold them together vertically, at arm’s length away from your chest. Walk forward a few steps and lean back so that your body is hanging at a slight incline, supported by the suspension trainer. Firmly gripping each handle, with your elbows slightly bent, pull the handles apart, while simultaneously pinching your shoulder blades together. Perform 3 sets of ten, focusing on control and maintaining a slow movement throughout the set.

7. Burpee Box Jumps

If you’re looking for an intense way to train explosiveness, like that required in a pop-up during a steep drop, look no further than the burpee box jump. Yes, it is as brutal as it sounds, but the combination of these two already explosive exercises create the perfect pop-up trainer. The burpee portion mimics the pop-up movement, training muscle memory, while the box jump adds lower-body strength training and explosiveness to the equation.

To perform, stand in front of a box slightly further than an arm’s length away. Drop to the ground, chest to the floor with your arms tucked at your side like you are about to perform a push-up. Then, explode off the floor back into a standing position and in one movement, execute the box jump.

8. Bosu Ball Stability Squats

This exercise is a tad more advanced than some of the others, but if executed properly and regularly, it will enhance your surfing ability. The Bosu Ball is a unique piece of fitness equipment that allows you to train strength and balance simultaneously.

If you can already properly execute a squat while balancing on a Bosu Ball, consider adding weight. If you’ve already added weight, try adding uneven loads, like one kettlebell overhead, and alternate sides. To perform, place the Bosu Ball ball side down and stand on the platform with your feet shoulder distance apart. Slowly and carefully, lower yourself down into a squat position. Make sure your knees never go past your heels. Add weight if necessary.

9. Rowing

The erg machine might be the best piece of equipment in the gym for total body surf training. Rowing recruits massive amounts of lower body strength, arm and back strength, muscle endurance, and heavy aerobic activity. Whether you’re training to paddle hard, toss buckets on turns, or to last hours in the lineup rowing is the exercise for you. To start, try rowing 1000 meters for time.

The most important part of training and getting in shape, is finding something that works well for you and that will keep you motivated. If you can surf every day, do it. There is no better surf training than surfing itself. If you can’t surf every day, hit the gym, the pool, the yoga studio, or the trail.

Enhancing Flexibility with Yoga

Best Yoga Poses for Surfers

Yoga and surfing go together like peanut butter and jelly. Yoga helps you become more flexible and balanced, which is super important for surfing. Some great yoga poses for surfers include:

  • Downward Dog
  • Warrior II
  • Pigeon Pose
  • Cobra Pose
  • Child’s Pose

These poses help stretch and strengthen your muscles, making it easier to move on your board.

surf yoga

How Yoga Prevents Injuries

Doing yoga regularly can help you avoid getting hurt while surfing. Yoga improves your posture and makes your joints healthier. This means you’re less likely to pull a muscle or strain something. Plus, yoga helps you stay relaxed and focused, which is key when you’re out on the waves.

Incorporating Yoga into Your Routine

Adding yoga to your daily routine is easier than you think. Start with just 10 minutes a day. You can do it in the morning to wake up your body or in the evening to wind down. Try to mix it up with different poses to keep things interesting. And remember, the more you practice, the better you’ll get at surfing!

 

Improving Balance with Bosu Ball Exercises

Top Bosu Ball Moves

The Bosu Ball is a fantastic tool for improving your balance and strength at the same time. Here are some top moves to try:

  • Bosu Ball Squats: Stand on the flat side of the Bosu Ball and perform squats. This will challenge your stability and leg strength.
  • Single-Leg Balance: Stand on one leg on the Bosu Ball and try to hold your balance. Switch legs after a set time.
  • Push-Ups: Place your hands on the Bosu Ball and do push-ups. This adds an extra balance challenge to a classic exercise.

Benefits for Surfing

Using a Bosu Ball can greatly improve your surfing skills. Better balance means better control on your board. Plus, the strength you build will help you paddle stronger and pop up faster.

Safety Tips

When using a Bosu Ball, safety is key. Here are some tips to keep in mind:

  1. Start slow: Begin with basic exercises and gradually move to more advanced ones.
  2. Use a spotter: If you’re trying a new move, have someone nearby to help if needed.
  3. Keep your core engaged: This helps maintain balance and prevents falls.
  4. Check your form: Make sure you’re doing the exercises correctly to avoid injury.

Cardio Boost: Jump Rope Drills

Why Jump Rope is Great for Surfers

Jump rope is an awesome way to boost your cardio and get your heart pumping. It’s a full-body workout that helps improve your coordination, balance, and endurance. Plus, it’s super fun and can be done almost anywhere!

Fun Jump Rope Routines

Mixing up your jump rope routines can keep things exciting. Here are a few to try:

  • Basic Jump: Just your standard jump, but try to keep a steady rhythm.
  • High Knees: Bring your knees up to your chest with each jump.
  • Double Unders: Swing the rope under your feet twice for every jump.
  • Criss-Cross: Cross your arms in front of you while jumping.

Jump Rope Safety Tips

To avoid injuries, keep these tips in mind:

  1. Warm-Up: Always start with a warm-up to get your muscles ready.
  2. Proper Footwear: Wear supportive shoes to protect your feet and ankles.
  3. Smooth Surface: Jump on a flat, non-slip surface to prevent falls.
  4. Stay Hydrated: Drink plenty of water before, during, and after your workout.

Longboard

 

Conclusion

Surfing is more than just a sport; it’s a way of life that demands a unique blend of strength, flexibility, and endurance. By incorporating these strength exercises into your routine, you’ll not only improve your surfing skills but also reduce the risk of injury. Remember, the key is consistency and having fun with your workouts. So, grab your board, hit the gym, and get ready to ride those waves with more power and confidence. Happy surfing!

Frequently Asked Questions

Why are push-ups important for surfers?

Push-ups help build upper body strength, which is essential for paddling and popping up on your board.

How do planks improve my surfing skills?

Planks strengthen your core, which helps with balance and stability while surfing.

What benefits do squats offer to surfers?

Squats build leg strength, which is crucial for maintaining balance and control on your surfboard.

Why should surfers include rows in their workouts?

Rows strengthen your back muscles, which are important for paddling and overall posture.

Are burpees good for surfing endurance?

Yes, burpees are great for building both cardio and strength, helping you last longer in the water.

How can lunges help my surfing performance?

Lunges improve lower body strength and stability, which are key for powerful and controlled movements on your board.

What yoga poses are best for surfers?

Poses like Downward Dog, Warrior, and Pigeon help improve flexibility and prevent injuries.

Why is balance training important for surfers?

Balance exercises, like those on a Bosu ball, help you stay steady on your board and react quickly to waves.

This article: Surf fitness exercises is part of our Swell instructional how to surf blog posts. Other popular episodes are:

About us

Have a look and see what a surf holiday with Swell is all about. We offer learn how to surf holidays for adults looking for an active & social water sport holiday. But we also offer a stylish and comfortable place to stay for people who already know how to surf.

Share on Facebook